jonnybischof

Eine optimale Wahl wäre ein Material, was sich nicht biegen oder verformen lässt. "Nicht" = "nicht ohne sehr grossen Kraftaufwand". Idealerweise sollte das Material zudem elastisch sein, sprich sich nach einer Deformation durch Krafteinwirkung wieder in seine ursprüngliche Form zurückbewegen. Mit Ausnahme davon ist Dibond in allen anderen genannten Punkten optimal. Allerdings ist dies meiner Meinung nach die wichtigste Eigenschaft...

Hast du einmal das Gehäuse des UM2 ausgemessen, was die Winkel angeht? Also, ist der Rahmen überall schön rechtwinklig? Ich habe vor kurzem das Material getestet, aus welchem der UM2 aufgebaut ist (Dibond). Ich empfand Dibond als ungeeignet und habe es wieder verworfen. Mit genügend Gewalteinwirkung müsste man das Gehäuse des UM2 deformieren können. Es braucht wohl sehr viel Kraft, aber wenn sich das Material einmal biegt, dann bleibt es so (nicht elastisch, d.h. keine Federwirkung).

That's right. I tried making my own fanduct but it turned out to be a very difficult task for Sketchup (and me o.O), so I just adapted Nick's fanduct mount. I suppose this solution will work quite well. If it doesn't, I'll look for another solution. Haven't gotten around to testing it yet (I was kept away from it the whole weekend :(). I'll finsh version 1.0 today and print it. Hopefully I can make a "run-in test" tomorrow (not to say "burn-in test"...)

o.O Somehow this thread must have slipped away from me, sorry! I will make my own direct drive bracket out of Trespa (same material I'm using for the frame). There's a lot of "leftover" material from the side and front panel cutouts, so I can do a lot of small parts from Trespa.

Don't forget that odors can be bad for your health even if you don't smell much of them! I don't know how bad ABS odors are, but especiall for long-time "pollution" these things can get fairly dangerous...

The electronics fan for 1.5.7 boards is a 24V fan, and it runs off 19V from the main PSU! I think they reduced the 12V power "options" a lot because the linear regulator (7812) that converts 19V to 12V gets very hot, and if you draw any more power it might overheat. I'm actually not yet sure how I will solve that problem. I'll probably just use a small DC/DC converter which I stick to the 19V, giving me a 12V supply rail. I don't like the cooling fan (PWM) running off 19V as well, so I'll connect this one to a 12V source as well. I'm afraid it will come to the point where I just design an electronics board of my own... :(

I've never heard of "Flattr". Please use PayPal, because many people have a PayPal account. I would never open an account anywhere just in order to make a donation...

Re-measured the thread-to-thread: It's actually 3 mm, not 2.5. The thread isn't cut clean though, there's some kind of "line" in the center of the profiles, which isn't always really in the center. Anyways, in that case I don't have to worry as my replacement leadscrew also has a 3mm pitch. My design "as is" can't be mounted into an Original UM1, because I've increased the spacing of the z linear shafts (hoping to get more rigidity). I guess the UM heated bed kit should be good enough. It's not what I'd do, but it is certainly far more balanced when you consider performance AND price. And in the end, the UM2 delivers, and it delivers good... I might do a "micro" printer when I'm done with all the primary projects. This one will probably have an all metal frame (except windows of course). Because of the reduced size, it shouldn't become too heavy, and I might even consider using Aluminum.

From: http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/v6-3mm-Bowden So yes, the thermocouple generally has a greater temperature range, but nothing interesting for plastic extrusion... I believe polycarbonate is the highest temperature extruding plastic I've seen to date, and that was 280°C iirc. Another thing is, I "think" the thermocouple is more accurate in theory, but also more difficult to read properly. So I can't say which sensor is more accurate in the end - it depends on how good the Arduino reads them.

I want to use the large hole to get an exact positioning in the x-y directions. The flange is just the easiest and strongest way to mount the bearing to the plate, but not useful for positioning. I also don't want to make a "loose" design, put everything together, and tigthen it down. Instead I want to make an exact construction with tight tolerances that will fit because it is made to fit. Installation becomes a lot easier that way... If I get the fit perfect, than I'll actually have to press-fit the bearings into place with almost zero play. I'll just order new parts - it may seem like a waste, but the three parts actually only cost me about 110$, including shipping and taxes. And that's for single parts. If I order batches of 10 or 20, I can sell the steel part kits for something like 75$. That's pretty cheap considering what you get for it There will aso be some more steel parts, mostly small stuff which needs to be rock solid. And I'm considering a complete steel enclosing for the electronics, motors, and power supply. But Blexon.com only goes down to 1mm thickness, that's quite a lot for an enclosure... Maybe I'll take 1mm Aluminum, should provide a good enough EMI shield and improved cooling properties.

Oh right, of course he meant it that way *stupid face*. The UM cartridge does fit into the E3D heater block, but it's considerably longer than the E3D cartridge. So it will protrude about 3-4 mm on each side of the heater block. There, it will get very close to Nick's fanduct which might melt because of that. But if you're using the E3D heater block, you will have to use the E3D thermistor (The thermocouple sensor definetly doesn't fit the E3D block). That means you will have to change your firmware. * At that point, you can also just use the 24V E3D cartridge - it's shorter than the UM one. *: Except if you can drill a hole into the E3D block in order to fit the thermocouple sensor. I have no idea which is the best solution for measurement accuracy. I can say that the E3D thermistor is simpler to install and use (BUT you have to switch to a custom firmware), and the measurement accuracy will be okay with both sensors.

Don't worry, I will publish the full design once it works (part of the UM black edition). Just don't forget that it will demand for high machining capabilities (such as lasercutting 3mm steel). Maybe it's possible to replace the lasercut steel parts with something easier to process, but the solution is really sweet A little teaser: These three parts already feel stronger than the whole UM original assembly. And they are completely missing the "strenght-giving" center pieces. They're also about the same weight as the whole original platform... Using 8mm Trespa HPL as the base platform, the steel arms wouldn't even be necessary in the first place (I guess). This is definetly going to be strong enough Sadly, I got the holes a bit too tight so I can't fit the linear bearings in there. Next version will have an ultra-tight fit If the original leadscrew is 3mm pitch, shouldn't that be measurable on the actual part? Could it be that while it is a metric diameter part, that it is still an imperial 1/10" pitch? 2.54mm is just about what I measured... I guess I'll just try out the 14mm leadscrew with 3mm pitch. I don't have many alternatives anyways...

ABS ist tendenziell weicher und biegsamer als PLA. Von daher ist ABS für solche Sachen eventuell gar nicht geeignet. Es gibt natürlich verschiedene ABS Qualitäten, vielleicht habe ich bisher einfach eher daneben gegriffen

Some news about my improved z-stage! I have made a lot of progress since January, and the new design is almost ready. The latest update made me change lots of things concerning the z-stage (Z-motor is now on top). I need to switch from the standard 12mm leadscrew to a thicker 14mm version (because there are no axial bearings for the 12mm screw available - long story). Now, I'm not sure if I understand the "pitch" correctly. If I buy a 12mm trapezoidal leadscrew from Misumi, it comes with a 2 mm pitch. The 14mm version has 3 mm pitch. Could it be that the UM original leadscrew has a 2.5mm pitch? That would be the distance between two thread profiles. Not sure if that's the right way to determine the pitch.. Would using a leadscrew with 3mm pitch become a problem with accuracy? I know I'll have to recalibrate, but that's not too difficult.

That sounds perfect! The mount won't fit into a regular letter, and shipping a parcel to Germany costs more than its contents... I just got the v6 mount to fit nicely. Now I have to improve the fanduct mount and make the small parts (TC amp board, wire fixings, push-fit coupler ring). In theory, the UM + E3D combinations works just fine. In practice, there might be problems with the heater block not being exactly the same size as the E3D. Nick's fanduct is very close to the heater block - it might melt from the larger UM block. (It might just as well melt from the E3D block...). That's the thing I haven't tested yet. At the moment I have a "never touch a running system" problem: My UM works for now, so I have to think twice before I take it apart and mount the E3D hotend. I'm building up a second printer, but that will take some more weeks. I'll probably just hook up the E3D hotend and run it for some time without actually mounting it inside the printer.

Du weisst, dass alles, was auf Thingiverse hochgeladen wird, auch Takerbot gehört? Lies einmal deren AGB... Was konstruktives: Der Winkel, den du drei Posts weiter oben abgebildet hast, könnte deutlich stabiler sein, wenn du ihm ein paar Querstreben gibst. Bzw. einfach die bereits vorhandenen 45° Streben (wo die Muttern sitzen) vergrösserst, so dass sie weiter in Richtung der Enden reichen. PLA ist schliesslich nicht ganz so stabil wie Stahl

If you use a 12V heater cartridge on 19V (Ultimaker standard power supply), you will have 108 Watts of power instead of the intended 40 Watts. I would definetly not do that, even if it will probably work. I highly doubt it would run stable.

That's bad luck :( My original Foley Design wouldn't have gotten past the first 20mm height, but I stuck it down with blue tape while it printed. It failed again just before the upper bearing hole... I didn't want to print it again with support, it would probably have worked with support, but then I read that the new push-fit couplers don't fit Nick's design anyways. Don't mention that with Sketchup! You have to manually redraw EVERY line in order to get rid of the chamfers, then alter the design, then remodel the chamfers... My first version of the v6 mount is printing right now. It's a lot better and simpler than the v5 mount, because I use the blue fanduct. Needs some tuning (I forgot to raise the fanduct) but it will probably be ready for publishing by the end of the week. Btw Andi, if you need someone to print the mount for you - I can offer to print the mount and supply the necessary screws. But I'm in Switzerland, so shipping will take a few days.

Bin schon gespannt darauf! Ich gehe zwar beim 3D-Drucker-Bau in eine etwas andere Richtung, aber für allgemeine Aufbauten aus Profilen dürfte das sehr nützlich werden! Sieht nach einer Menge Arbeit aus.. Vielen Dank fürs Teilen! Willst du das wirklich bei Takerbot hochladen? o.O

Wow, tolles Foto! Mit Abstand das beste Weiss, was ich je gesehen habe... (Faberdashery weiss hab ich aber noch nie gedruckt..) Hast du Faberdashery Gold? Nimmt mich wunder, wie da der Unterschied wäre. Sieht auf dem Foto nicht so spektakulär aus.

Tipp zum Kalibrieren der Plattform: Ich stelle die Plattform jeweils nur grob ein mittels "Ausrichten der Düse an allen vier Ecken". Danach drucke ich ein grosses Rechteck (150x150mm) und schaue mir die Linien an, siehe Dim3nsioneer's Post. Während der ersten Linien mache ich die Feinjustierung, so dass die Linien sauber werden. Sauber heisst: Sie sollen so sein, wie du es in Cura eingestellt hast. Z.B. 0.3mm hoch, und 0.4mm breit. Natürlich nur nach Augenmass gehen. Die Linien dürfen nicht zu platt sein (Plattform zu hoch) und nicht zu hoch (Plattform zu tief). Meistens haften die Linien wirklich erst dann, wenn die Plattform sehr sauber ausgerichtet ist. Das Augenmass braucht vielleicht etwas Übung, aber wenn du erst einmal den "Sweet Spot" getroffen hast (Wenn ein Teil richtig sauber druckt), dann weisst du, wie es aussehen soll. Mit BlueTape geht das alles viel einfacher. Das Tape gleicht eine Menge an Höhe aus, und man muss das PLA einfach kräftig ins Tape reindrücken. Bei einem Heizbett mit Glasplatte geht das halt nicht mehr so einfach, dafür aber mit viel besserem Ergebnis.

That's right. I'm planning to switch to another electronics platform (Megatronics V3) running entirely off 24V. This will be documented as well with my "UM Black Edition". Timescale on this project is at least 6 weeks, because I have to wait 5 weeks for the frame material to arrive... The printed tube cutter should work just as well as a regular one.. All you need is a very sharp blade, like a surgical scalpel. (You're gonna need one of these for my v6 mount anyways ).

Your list is not quite complete like that.. You'll need the small fan and the bowden coupler for the extruder side as well (it's a different one than the UM original). The E3D hotend only works with the small fan (and the blue fanduct)! Otherwise it overheats and clogs. So you should also get the blue fanduct + screws. You should just buy the Full Kit - 3mm Bowden. Spare nozzles are always a good idea. You shouldn't use "any" nozzle but only the E3D ones with the E3D hotend. When you place the order, make a comment that you'd like them to switch the 12V cartridge for a 24V one. They did switch it out for me, however without any comments. But I received a 24V cartridge My v6 mount will come with a thermocouple amp fixing. As anon4321 mentioned, I don't know how well it works when you just use the full UM heater block with the UM cartridge and thermocouple (fix 2.5). I haven't tried that yet and won't do it myself, but several other users reported that this works. If you find that you have trouble with that setup, you can still switch to the E3D block, cartridge, and thermistor IF you bought the full kit. About the small fan and the blue fanduct: I will try to adapt my v5 mount so that the E3D blue fanduct can be used with it. The blue fanduct is made from polycarbonate and is very temperature resistant. It's much better than any printed version (like the one I made for my v5 mount). /edit: The bowden tube that comes with the full kit is longer than the UM original, so it should be just fine. Note that you need a very sharp knife (ideally, a tube cutter) to cut it. It needs to be cut as straight and cleanly as possible. As I mentioned before, I'll write up a full guide for putting the E3D into an Ultimaker - as soon as I get to it /edit2: You can get cheap tube cutters at aquarium or liquid computer cooling shops. Maybe aquatuning.de could be a good source for you /edit3: The E3D extruder side Bowden coupler doesn't fit the UM original extruder. But the original coupler fits the E3D tube. I'd still consider buying the full kit, you'll be able to use most of the parts, and that way you can be sure that you have everything you need.

I think upgrading to the E3D hotend is a good idea! My stock hotend ran for a long time (half a year or so) and then started to fail and fail again... It is running at the moment, but I find it hard to trust it now and I'm always near the printer while it prints. I'm working on an Ultimaker mount for the v6 hotend. If you want to, you can keep the original heater block, heater cartridge and thermocouple sensor. That way, you don't have to make any changes in the firmware. The E3D heater block might be a bit better than the UM original, but I doubt it will make much of a difference. I'll make a guide once I'm done, but you'll have to be patient - it might take a weeek or so until I'm done. You shouldn't have a problem finding someone in Germany who can print the mount for you. Either ask around the forum or try www.3dhubs.com

And I already thought I was the only one who thinks the GitHub site is a PITA to use...