jonnybischof

Dein Modell hat eine Wand, welche 0.4mm dick sein soll? Das Problem dabei ist, dass du damit 2 shells hast (Die Wand besteht aus 2 Strichen, wenn man den Querschnitt davon betrachtet! 1 Strich alleine würde ja noch keine Dicke ergeben). Es werden immer zwei Linien gezogen, da es ja zwei Aussenflächen gibt. Zumindest war das so, als es mir das letzte Mal aufgefallen ist Ich mache seither meine Modelle immer mit 1.3mm Wandstärke...

Das Problem hatte ich gerade gestern ebenfalls mit einer Rolle Colorfabb XT. Glücklicherweise liegt es nicht am Drucker, sondern bei der Spule bzw. bei der Art, wie die Spule gehandhabt wird. Bisher hatte ich das Problem noch (fast) nie, deshalb gehe ich davon aus, dass es einfach Hersteller gibt, die keine Rollen wickeln können... Wenn man so eine "schlechte" Rolle hat, die sich ständig verknotet, dann empfehle ich eines von beidem: Lege die Rolle auf den Boden (also ~1m unterhalb des Druckers) und lockere sie auf, so dass sich eine lose Spirale bis nach oben zum Drucker bildet. Diese kann der Drucker leicht einziehen. Das geht insbesondere dann sehr gut, wenn nur noch wenig Material auf der Rolle ist -> einfach komplett von der Rolle nehmen und die lose Spirale nach unten baumeln lassen. Bei längeren Drucken gibt es dabei aber Probleme, weil die Rolle am Boden nicht mitdreht. Ein Drehteller wie bei einer Mikrowelle schafft da Abhilfe (muss nicht motorgetrieben sein, aber soll sich leicht drehen lassen). Das ist schnell und ohne Aufwand gemacht. Wenn du Haustiere oder Kinder in der Nähe hast, ist es aber leider keine gute Option. Alternativ kannst du dir einen Halter für lose Filamentspulen drucken (Beispiele unten), das Filament von der Rolle ab- und auf den Halter aufspulen. Dabe darfst du das Filament natürlich nicht verknoten, sonst bist du wieder gleich weit wie zu Beginn... Beispiele für Halter (es gibt natürlich noch viele mehr...): https://www.youmagine.com/designs/spool-holder-for-loose-filament https://www.youmagine.com/designs/loose-filament-holder-v3 /edit: Fast vergessen! Wenn dir das passiert, dann hat das meistens noch ein paar Unschönigkeiten zur Folge: 1. Der Drucker läuft eine ganze Weile mit heissem Extruder, aber ohne dass sich das Material darin bewegt. Dadurch verkokelt es wahrscheinlich und verstopft die Düse. Im Idealfall kannst du einfach ein paar cm Material nachfüttern und die Düse damit durchputzen. Falls sie aber wirklich verstopft ist, solltest du dich mit diesem Thema beschäftigen. 2. Wenn der Material Feeder das Filament einzieht, dieses aber feststeckt, dann kann es passieren, dass das Filament an der Stelle abgeschliffen (englisch: "grinded") wird. In diesem Fall musst du das abgeschliffene Stück Filament herausschneiden und den Material Feeder vom entstandenen Staub reinigen.

Isn't a crossflow fan just a "widened" radial fan? The fan geometry certainly is the same... But yes, put an obstacle at the wrong place and there is no more flow. /edit: ok, the air enters a radial fan differently than a crossflow fan... Well anyways, I'm very happy with the fan so far. Now I just have to put it to use and see how well it plays with the printer..

Just received my QG030 This thing is powerful!! It generates a lot more static pressure than any computer fan I've seen (and I've seen quite some...). Also, it starts at 3.3V and is probably more than powerful enough at 5V. 12V makes it roar like hell, that would probably blow the plastic right off the build platform Anyways, I will try to make it work with PWM but I'll add a filter in order to get a linear voltage to the fan. Will report what happens... (If you don't hear from me again, it blew up...)

You could just leave the positive endstops away. You only need the negative endstops (home position) in order to home the printhead. From there, it can work with the software endstops.

Don't the flexible couplings also "dampen" the motor transmission to the shaft? If you fix the motor directly to the shaft, then the motor will take the full moment of inertia (generated by the x-y-gantry when rapidly changing directions). I'd say that's also what increases the noise, and I'm pretty sure the motors don't like it much, either. However, if there is a flexible coupling between these parts, it will take some of the moment of inertia away. The cheap chinese couplings even take quite a lot - you can easily twist them when you put screwdrivers through the setscrew-holes... I don't have my direct drive setup up and running yet, so I can't speak based on actual experience. But I have lots of different parts laying around and I have made some experiments with them.

You can of course get your GT2 pulleys somewhere else, too. But Robotdigg gets my recommendation Belts: 303 teeth, 606 mm length (GT2 = 2mm per tooth). Thanks for pointing that out Most manufacturers specify belt length (so, it's a "606 belt"), not number of teeth. But you have to be careful about that. Or you can just buy a few meters and cut the belts to size. You can easily join the belts in the belt clamp of the slider block. This is generally recommendable because you don't have to worry about getting the correct belt length. I got 606mm belts from Misumi, they offer pretty much any belt length which is cool. Haven't looked into the firmware yet, but yes, you'll need to adjust the values. No need to re-flash the firmware, you can change the values with the Ulticontroller (if you have one...).

Correct. The easiest way is to get your firmware built here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ Select the correct template in the beginning and you only have to make some little changes (select bed temperature sensor)

By the way, there is a slight difference in length (only 0.5mm) between the x and y shafts. I've found the 606 teeth belts to fit very well to the shorter part, but the 0.5mm more on the other side made them very tense and hard to rotate. Maybe that's because the belts were very new and could be stretched a little bit in time, but that shouldn't be necessary... For the original Ultimaker, I would rather use "long enough" belts and tension them.

Well, definitely get rid of the original pulleys if you want to improve your printing accuracy. If you want to switch to GT2, you also have to remember that you need new belts - in contrary to the good MXL pulleys by foehnsturm. I settled with the GT2 pulleys from Robotdigg.com. They are very cheap, but actually the quality is surprisingly good. Nice machining, 2 setscrews instead of just 1, and no visible roundness-error. Also, they are very small which is necessary when using them in an Ultimaker. I didn't use the included setscrews as they are probably not hard enough to tighten them as much as is needed. But I didn't actually try them (already had good setscrews around...). I will buy these again since Misumi's industrial quality pulleys are simply too expensive (about 10x more than the robotdigg ones).

Ist das 2.85mm Filament? Wenn dieses Filament aus der "Kunstoff-Schweissdraht" Ecke kommt, dann ist es vermutlich 3.00mm Nenndurchmesser wie bei vielen anderen, die ursprünglich aus der Industrie kommen und nicht aus der "Hobby-3D-Druck-Szene".

I have the bubbles as well. Haven't had any problems with that yet. There will be partial underextrusions whenever one of these bubbles reaches the nozzle. But they should be small enough to not really matter. Other materials might have these bubbles as well, but if it's not transparent you just won't notice it...

Looks good so far! About the fanduct problem: You could print and use a https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-minimum-printhead-with-threaded-bowden-lock-dual-extruder-version--2 and take different screws. Something like 16 or 20mm long screws should be fine with this printhead. btw: Your last picture is set to private, can't view it...

I've had that issue, too. It happens just as you described. If some XT sticks to the nozzle, it will turn black after some time. When your print lifts or expands slightly (for example on overhangs, or when it melts a bit too much and expands) and then touches the nozzle, it will take the black gunk with it. Make sure you clean the nozzle often (at the outside). You have to heat it up just until the material gets soft enough to tear off.

LOL I liked 0:50 - 0:55 best /edit: played it without sound. I'll have to re-watch this at home..

Hmm... Seit wann hat der Rep2 eine bessere Druckqualität als die UMs? Und vor allem: Wieso ist der UM2 schlechter als der UM1? Sieht ganz so aus, als würde ein entscheidender Faktor in dieser Statistik fehlen.. (kA welcher, aber es geht jedenfalls nicht auf).

I've had the same thing with my PEEK part. It's not beautiful (yours seems to be a bit worse than mine) but it should work. Note that you have to be careful with the wooden parts. If you tighten the long screws too much, then the vertical parts of the printhead will start to deform. Avoid that. Everything needs to be very firm and tight, but not squished...

I've also noticed that after uploading a custom firmware, the printer would seem to run faster than before. I thought I was just going crazy, but it might actually be some error.. I've never had any quality issues though. It's just that I now it feels like 50mm/s is the same as 100mm/s was with the old firmware.

8V "minimum" is probably the usual "minimum voltage where the fan can startup properly" value. Just kickstart it, then regulate back. Usually, fans work at very low voltages that way. I've once had a 12V PC fan that actually ran at 2.5V. You could see the blades - it was that slow. But it kept turning and didn't make the slightest noise I'll have to think about how to regulate it. Sadly, there's not even an RPM feedback on this fan which would've been very useful. I'll see about that. First I need to get it mounted... /edit: The "good" ones from ebmpapst cost 180 CHF. That's definitely not an option...

GRRR I hate it when they use different part number styles in the catalogue than online! I've been on this catalogue, and I've searched it for "QG030" (actual part number) which returned nothing. The catalogue lists it as QG 030. Thank you for finding it Sadly, it's only the same half-hearted info as is provided in the datasheet. The technical drawing is ridiculous. The most important measures are not there. Where is the axis, and where exactly is the air outlet??? People, learn how to make drawings... :( I can see how to mount the fan in this picture, but I don't see WHERE I have to position it in order to get my airstream where I need it... I guess I'll also have to make a custom regulation for this fan. Using PWM on non-PWM fans can shorten their lifespan a lot.

Done. Thanks for the "I'm single" option

Has anyone worked with an ebmpapst QG030 crossflow fan before? I've just ordered one from Mouser (QG030-198/12) which should be ideally sized (198mm fan width). They didn't have the 24V version stocked, meh :( I guess this model doesn't have a PWM input? There is no useful information on the manufacturer's page, and the datasheet doesn't mention anything about the connection of the fan (why bother with such details, anyways? -.-). It's pricey, but it will probably outlive me so I'm fine with it.

If you use them to swap out bad pulleys on an original Ultimaker, you can keep your original belts. They are a direct deplacement, just on a hugely improved quality (and therefore cost) level. You only need new belts if you get pulleys that have a different diameter (don't do that, it will most likely not fit into the Ultimaker...) or if they use a different geometry (for example GT2 instead of MXL). Buying GT2 belts and pulleys can be a cheaper alternative. But there are good and bad GT2 pulleys just the same way it is with any other system...

..das motiviert den Hersteller auch eher, die Sache etwas genauer unter die Lupe zu nehmen

I like the survey! I would add the flight time option to the priorities list, because flight time is very closely related to the construction of the model and quality of the electronics / motors / batteries (meaning price 3). Otherwise it's easy to wish for something which is extremely difficult or even impossible to do (20 mins flight time with FPV, GPS and cheap components is nothing more than wishful thinking..).