Nicolinux

Another idea. It could be that the belt tension for the x/y axis is different. If there is too much of a difference I can imagine that circles would be printed like this (not round). I think this issue is slightly related to one of my problems of "walls delaminating" (link). tl;dr: Make sure the belt tension is consistent (for x/y and sepparately for the shortbelts).

Good idea about cutting the glass plate for the entire width. I had a small one here that is quite small so I added double sided tape to hold it in place.

@illuminarti: Good idea, I'll check the spring tension on the feeder. I measured it a while ago and it was still at ~11mm. I also noticed that while assembling the extruder the plastic part that is pushed down by the spring sat very very tight on the contraption. I didn't believe at first that the spring would push it down at all. @gr5: It is a baloon powered jet car (printed at 0.2 layer height). http://www.thingiverse.com/make:49558 Great idea about checking it with a magnyfing glass. Gota buy one - it is incredible but we don't have one here (I guess we are not old enough )

Thanks guys. This was silly of me to ask something that simple.

Another alternative for printing is OctoPrint. This is a small application that can run off really cheap computers (like the RaspberryPi). It has a very nice web interface where you drop the .gcode files (Created by Cura) and start the print process. It also has support for webcams which is perfect if the printer isn't at the same location as the computer. Cura and OctoPrint are somehow connected. The developer of OctoPrint uses an Ultimaker and also forked a part of Cura.

Hi, since I still have problems with my z-stage I wanted to re-create some parts. I found a company with a lasercutter in my area and placed an order for the z-stage parts. Today (after two weeks of waiting...) they told me that the plywood I supplied them with is too hard and their cutter can't cut through.. It was 6mm beech plywood. I know there are many types of plywood and some of them are weak and not very durable. So I am wondering, what kind of wood does the UM use? Thanks

I just clean it with water. But you can print several objects without the need to clean it. I have a the wood glue mixture and a paint brush near my Ultimaker. After I print a large object I just fill the holes on the surface. I think I cleaned the glass plate two times now - and I have printed many objects since then.

Please share your tricks. The cheat sheet is itching for it

Because I am still trying to get a feel for the combination of speed and temperature. I wanted a high quality print so the speed is pretty low. And since the filament was rated with a relatively high melting temperature and because I wanted to reduce blobs that form due to too much pressure, I have chosen 230°. Still got a few blobs though. So I have no fool proof method for completely eliminating them.

You are doing it exactly right. Before you close the extruder, you could push the filament with your hand a bit to have stick into the melting zone. Then you can safely close the extruder and use the gear to rotate until the new color comes out.

Sorry, I can't remember. I do write everything else down, but I always forget to record the printing time. And since my OctoPrint installation doesn't work right now, I don't have any other records than the UltiController (until I start the next print that is...). The print took several hours - that's for sure. Here are the printing parameters: layer height: 0.2 shells: 0.8 top/bottom: 1.2 infill: 0 speed: 40 temperature: 230

Good question. I printed the green iPhone stand with the following settings: layer height: 0.2 shells: 0.8 bottom / top: 0.6 infill: 20 speed: 75 temperature: 225 filament diameter 2.85 At least for the blue filament I have the same diameter. The white one is larger - 2.94. The other stuff I printed mostly with 0 infill. That might be it. But why on earth would zero infill make it worse? Except there are some complicated corner cases where, without infill the filament contracts/expands differently when cooling thus amplyfing z-wobble problems. Weird...

Hi, I am still fighting with z-wobble because my z-stage isn't stable (see http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2716-cannot-lower-bed-to-reach-endstop/ if you are interested). However, I noticed that some models feature some inconsistent or invariable horizontal lines. I thought that when z-wobble is present, those lines would be always there. This owl for example features some prominent horinontal lines around the waist, but not later on. Then I have models with zero wobble like this: And models where wobble is all over the place but still not consistently aranged: I also noticed that sometimes the surface is very regular where one layer is shifted backwards and the next layer positioned normally. This repeats itself for the entire model: Sorry for so many pictures... Any idea what it could be? Maybe the z-stage is very unstable and while the machine vibrates it also moves up and down.

Then it would be no problem for the RepRap folks, except if they pull from your branch.

Well for one RepRap people have the same problems. Hardcoded filament diameters and temperature are "bad" for everyone so improvements in this area is welcome. But why is it a problem at all? Do you submit the changes to the original Marlin branch?

Great news - thanks David. Will you release the firmware update for the UM-Original along with the new Cura?

@MakingZone: Where did you get the actual version for the Mac? Did you compile it yourself?

Just found this one on Youtube. There are really too few videos about this thing. How could the hype build up with these few videos? In the video one can see the led strip at the top (front) and some closeup shots of the new hotend. By the way - for such trade shows I'd pick a model that prints very well at high speed and let the Ultimaker show why it is king in this category. What's up with these slow&safe prints?

I am using this one for several weeks now. Didn't have any problems so far: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24363

Just a little update. I am using this for a few days not and it is great. I don't take the glass plate off, I just sprinkle a bit of the wood glue mixture and distribute it with a brush. After it has dried I start printing. It is so much better than with tape. Everything I tried sticks fine. Sometimes I have to use a knife to get the models form the glass plate, but it is far easier than getting the off after using isopropyl alcohol with tape.

Hehe, ok - marketing at its best. No problem, I was just curious. You people should really just merge with OctoPrint or integrate it somehow. I know that Gina forked Cura to create OctoPrint. Both projects - Cura and OctoPrint are awesome on their own - imagine how much better they were together. Gina is already working on it. I can't wait to try it. Adding a RasPi to the Ultimaker 2 shouldn't be a problem cost wise. When one spends that much money, the cost for a RasPi is not that much. @LePaul: You can already do this with a little mod. Peter explained it in his video:

Oh dear, I don't hope to turn this thread into "what's missing in Cura" - but if anybody asked me it would be Joris. I'd love to try it

You need to also delete the file com.ultimaker.Cura unter ~/Library/Preferences.

Hi, Could somebody please explain this feature? What does it mean "wifi enabled"? I am asking because the idea of controlling an Ultimaker from my iPhone is _very_ appealing and I would hope that's got something to do with "wifi enabled". Thanks.

Pete, if you need another point of reference - here is my experience with the Ultimaker 1. I have this machine for roughly 2 months now. I spent the first few weeks exclussively with tuning. While frustrating at first, it payed off afterwards. Right now I have a few remaining problems (z-stage and issues with blobbing) but comparing with my experience with another printer and looking at some pictures of objects made by others on Thingiverse, I'd say the Ultimaker is an awesome machine once dialed in. As George said (and by the way - he and Simon (illuminarti) are a great help here on the forums), if you print the same part over and over again, you will find the optimal settings pretty soon. The most important concept to grasp is speed vs. temperature. Regarding the spec sheet for the Ultimaker 2 - that's what I'd also like to see. I guess the Ultimaker folks are very busy right now to prepare for the new release, but they will surely release it soon.