Nicolinux

I did, but my mail server was down for the last few days and I have missed their answer. I was looking for a sample pack including some colors and the xt. I'll ask again later.

Just an idea. When you have multiple versions of Cura installed, they all use the same plist "com.ultimaker.Cura". Maybe one of the versions breaks the plist file for other versions. Btw. where to get the actual Cura for Mac? Are there any pre-compiled versions?

Hi, I'd like to propose a new useful feature for Cura. It would be nice to have a dropdown beside the filament diameter input field allowing the user to select a filament preset. The reason I am proposing it is because I noticed that when dealing with different filament, one of the most recurrent tasks is setting the filament diameter. How many times did I prepare models for a print, copied it to sdcard and walked up to the printer only to find that I have chosen the wrong filament diameter. I know that Cura supports profiles but I rarely use them because after all, so many other details have to be changed for different prints and it is faster to just fill them in on the fly. But filament is mostly fixed. I think many users have a few different filament diameters at hand and switching between those quickly would be a big plus. Especially when you print models made of different parts. Also I find the UI style that Slic3r uses very useful because it allows the user to load only specific parts of a profile thus mixing settings at will. Thanks for considering it.

This happened to mee too albeit a bit different. I pulled out the filament and it left behind a thin strand of filament. When I inserted the new filament, it squashed the remaining strands and jammed the head. I resolved this matter by removing the bowden tube from the head and using needle-nose pliers to grab the surpluss material. Way easier than taking the head apart. But you are right, I don't know how to store the UM if it is not used for a longer period.

David, just a little remark on this matter. When you guys prepare the heated build addon _please_ don't make the mistake to produce too few. Prepare for high demand - just take the number of sold UM1 machines, divide it by 1, add a few percent margin error and then you'd have your production forecast :-P

Hi Paul, I'd say the Ultimaker is pretty much self contained for printing. There is also a spool of filament included (Ultimate Blue). From experience here is the stuff (even minor parts) that I accumulated over time. Mind you, I have my printer for two months now, but I tinkered with another open source printer before: Needle-nose pliers - very useful to hunt down small strands of filament and for "post processing" models Digital caliper - very useful for calibration Sewing machine oil - Useful for lubrication, although I don't know about the UM2 in this regard, however it was useful for the Ultimaker 1 M3 hex screw driver - It was included with the Ultimaker 1, I don't know about the UM2 Diamond files kit - Very useful for post processing. Link If you intend to paint your models you'll need stuff for that. Search the forums, there are plenty of people doing that. That's what I can think of for now. Oh one more thing. If you don't want to print off sdcard you could buy a Raspberry Pi and install OctoPrint on it. Then you'd have a standalone printing station where you only need to add (or queue) models for printing via a web interface. OctoPrint is found here.

Thanks George. I will try it too. I found somebody with a laser cutter in my area and will replace the z-stage back panels. I will keep in mind to lock the brass nut and have the threaded rod be centered on the z-coupler. I really hope to put an end to this mess because it is the only thing on my UM that's not ideal (for me).

Ahem... es ist jetzt nicht so schwer zwei Shops zu vergleichen... Ultimaker: https://www.ultimaker.com/products/ultimaker-2 iGo3D: https://www.igo3d.com/3d-drucker-kaufen/3d-printers-kits/ultimaker-2-3d-drucker.html Ich würde sagen es gibt sich nicht viel. Die Preise im Ultimaker Shop sind ohne VAT (Mehrwertsteuer). Wenn man die VAT darauf rechnet und ~50€ Versand addiert, dann liegt der Preis gleich mit dem im iGo3D Store.

Can you expand on it a bit? I wouldn't mind using a glue stick before a print. It is easier than replacing the wood glue mixture. How many times can you print before you have to use the gluestick again? And are there any disadvantages?

Now I feel stupid, thanks. But indeed, I still don't understand why "lying" about the nozzle size would work just fine. I get it that Cure would slice it then. But wouldn't the print feature heavy underextrusion because less plastic is extruded through a "bigger" nozzle? Should it then be compensated by increasing the flow rate? There are two reasons I would like to scale it down. For one, I like small objects and find it fascinating to see how small/detailed the Ultimaker can go. The other reason is that I want to prepare for a full scale Yoda print and want to see if there is anything else that can fail. It is no fun to have a multi hour print fail due to stupid slicing settings.

Thanks Simon. I think I'll wait for the next Cura version (that I think is just about to be released). It would be a nice test case. By the way, I used Sculptris before and found it a bit complicated (the ZBrush legacy is clearly there). Meshmixer 2.0 from Autodesk is also free and fun to use. http://www.meshmixer.com

I don't know... Looking at the video, it looks pretty smooth to me. My threaded rod wobbles like crazy right now and I am still able to achieve relatively fine prints. @gr5: George, would you mind posting a photo of your z-stage. I don't know if you have already but I'd be interested to see where exactly you put those shims. Also, do you think it will work with washers? Thanks.

Hi, I am trying to print a scaled down version of the famous Yoda bust: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10650 However I noticed that the ears do feature some big holes. How to get rid of these? I am pretty sure that I have seen scaled down Yodas without broken ears. I tried different layer height and shells - but it doesn't help. I didn't print it yet though. Just looking at the gcode preview tells me that it will fail Thanks.

Alright, here is my first question. How does it look behind the z-stage cover (if this cover is removable easily). I am asking because I am curious to see if the design of the brass nut holder changed/improved. Another question - I read that the UM2 homes at the bottom. Is it true? When you prepare->auto home (or something like this), does the bed lower to the bottom? Thanks.

+1 for reworking the entire z-stage. I had much trouble with it, expecially with the brass nut not fitting properly into the holders which is a receipe for z-wobble. And considering the stats for this forum post (and the people who contacted me directly), I guess many others have problems with the z-stage too: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2716-cannot-lower-bed-to-reach-endstop I can not speak for others, but personally I'd rather pay more and have a kickass z-stage, heated bed and easier bed leveling than saving a few bucks.

Here is a little something that I noticed about the first layer. Normally before a print starts the nozzle oozes quite a bit. I pull the strands away because when the head homes to 0 it would otherwise squash the already extruded filament and take the goo with it when it moves into printing position. Illuminarti suggested to add the following to the start gcode section in Cura in order to extrude 6mm of filament before moving into position to print. G1 F90 E6 ;extrude 6mm of feed stock This has the advantage that it primes the nozzle and the already extruded filament beeing heavier, sticks to the bed at first and not to the nozzle. This might help to get a nice and consistent first layer.

I had many problems with the z-stage (the brass nut not sitting properly inside the designated cage). To me the horizontal lines do not look like issue restulting from wobble. You can simply test it if you move your z-stage up and down quickly (via the UltiController if you have one or with a tool on your pc). Check this video for reference - it shouldn't move that much (because I still have z-wobble :/ ) You could also print this object. Looking at the z-axis you will see immediately if you have the z-wobble issue: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:80126

I know the difference between vapor polished ABS and normal PLA prints. I'd just like to see how well tuned the UM2 is out of the box so to speak.

Hey Nancy, I'd like to see how the UM2 prints this model scaled down a lot (0.2 of the original model): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50212 I'd be interested how the ears at the top come out. When I printed it, I had to rotate the model to have the beak face the fan. But I guess you don't need it now. layer height: 0.07 shell: 0.8 top/bottom thickness: 0.6 infill: 15 speed: 20 temperature: 185-190

Here are some of my latest prints. The famous trilobite: Thor: And the little cuddling owls. The small print has some defects but I am working on it

Ok, I need to remind myself to properly check every detail in Cura before I start long prints. I usually look at it in the layers view mode. But it is hard to spot errors that way. I will remember to inspect it in x-raw view mode. @daid: Maybe you could consider another mode like the Repetierhost gcode view.

Hi, I don't know if this has been asked before but I noticed that very often before a layer change, the head pauses for a fraction of a second, extrudes way too much plastic before it moves on. I don't think it is related to this: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2786-please-analyze-my-prints/?p=20288 I have the feeling that it is a "deliberate" action and not related to too much presure. The squashed blobs look like this: To avoid it, I think it would suffice to move inward a little (where the infill area is located), do the overextrusion and then move on. If this is on a top-layer that it is problematic...

Hi, I have another weird problem with a model here. Cura 13.06.5 (Mac). I sliced a part for this model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19881 There are four guns for the mech and somehow Cura decided that two of them should have a broken and displaced barrel: Of course I noticed it after a 6 hours print :/ Gcode: https://www.dropbox.com/s/89ancs6xnvjzb8k/legs_guns.gcode The other two guns came out alright. I wonder what caused it for the other two. Before adding the model to Cura I opened it in netfabb Basic and repaired it.

But leaving out infill is often a problem for models with a flat top. Cura is smart and starts to add infill for itself when it approaches the top, but on many models (mostly humanoid heads) it would fail misserably without infill. I whish it would be possible to print with "variable infill" where one can somehow specify the infill amount for the z-height. @gr5: Great idea bout variable speed. I'd love to use that too. I don't care about the quality of infill - this can be printed pretty fast. But what would you do about temperature? If you print at say 50mm/s and would want to have 300mm/s infill, depending on the layer height this is pretty impossible without change temperature (or flow rate which handles the rest I guess).

The thumbscrews need to have a cap on the end. Check out this comparison image: https://www.igo3d.com/media/wysiwyg/ProduktFotos/Ultimaker2/Ultimaker_2_iGo3D_13.jpg Hm, looking at this image I think these are just normal M3 screws that are firmly attached to the metal bed. At the bottom is a "thumb nut". This gives me an idea for a printable adapter for the UM1. I'll try to work something out in OpenSCAD.