Nicolinux
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Posts posted by Nicolinux
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Hi, and welcome to the forum!
If you have the Olsson Block, did you change a completely new nozzle?
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Hi,
just stumbled over this service:
Looks like another "cloud streaming thingy directly to your printer". It looks nice but the page is very light on information... They seem to be UM2 fans at least
So, did any of you tested it?
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Ich gehe davon auss dass das Board ein biliges Clone aus China ist und den Hardwarespezifikationen nicht entspricht - daher die Fehlermeldung :/
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Ansonsten ist es _immer_ möglich über einen SSH Tunnel eine Verbindung aufzubauen und eine andere Anwendung von extern darüber zu erreichen. Dafür brauchst du nur einen super günstigen Mini-Server der immer online ist. Amazon AWS gibt es z.b. in der kleinsten Variante umsonst.
Das löst dein Problem mit "unerwünscht" nicht, aber möglich ist es dennoch.
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Na klar:
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/18018-reattaching-sensor-and-heater
Für die anderen Schritte, schau dir die Navigation auf der Rechten Seite an.
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I think you could use it. Remember though that spiralize does one shell only. This might break your model.
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I tried the tribo filament. I was a bit of a pain to have the print stick to the heated glass. I had to use 3DLac spray (something like hairspray).
I printed with a 0.25mm nozzle and in the end it clogged so bad I had to throw the nozzle away :(
Not saying the filament is bad, I was jut too much of a noob to print with it...
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Ahm what? You mention "understand" and I don't get what you say
I printed the square rotated by 45° thus having the infill in straight lines where only one axis moves.
That's the art of confusion...
I understand. You rotated the object but didn't change the direction the infill was printed. That's an option Cura didn't offer so far (in the lastest open beta they have something going in that direction under 'experimental'). But Simplify3D gives you the opportunity to define the angle for the infill; commonly known infill directions are set as 45° and -45°. If one would change the infill direction to 0° and 90°, i.e. parallel to the x-axis and the y-axis of the printer, one could separate the two axis from each other and check for axis-specific issues.
I hope, it's now at least not even more confusing...
Alright I do understand now. Then you're right, I didn't test that.
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Hey @nitrojuice, the image link does not work. You can add images here on the forum (2nd. icon from the right above the text input field).
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Yes I am here - who called?
There was one other "trick" for XTCF-20. Measure the diameter of your filament. I had to set mine to 2.9mm in the filament profile on the printer (Material->Settings->Customize)
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@Nicolinux: Just to make sure I understood it correctly: You printed the object with different orientation but the infill was still produced by moving the x and the y motor the same distance, right? You didn't print it the way that infill was mainly only produce by moving the x-motor OR the Y-motor?
Ahm what? You mention "understand" and I don't get what you say
I printed the square rotated by 45° thus having the infill in straight lines where only one axis moves.
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@Dim3nsioneer: I have the +Kit with the 35W heater and the new coupler type. That thing is only a few weeks old and I din't print much. But I had this "banding" problem with the old UM2 head too and there I already used a 35W heater (but an old-school coupler).
@neotko: The story is a bit different. I didn't swap the x/y rods, only the thin rods that came with the +Kit.
In my quest to find a solution for the "layers not touching" problem I swapped a lot of parts and tried many things. Then I had a very big print job with XT-CF20 which ate some couplers and a bit of my nerves
@IRobertI: The temperature is solid, even better than my regular print head with the 35W heater.
The weird thing is, when I got the printer for the first time and although it had that "layers not touching" problem from the get go, it could still print very smooth walls with zero "banding" (see the comparison pics in the first post here in this thread).
So something must have degraded/happened that produced this problem. At least I can say that replacing the linear bearings and smooth shafts with more expensive ones (and tighter tolerances) doesn't help.
I hate debugging through exclusion
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Bad news everybody. I've swapped the linear bearings and smooth shafts with expensive ones from Misumi. I have also replaced the brass z-nut. The print quality didn't change at all :( :(
So it must be something else. D A M N!
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Hi,
and welcome to the forums.
Take out the glass plate and put it on a flat surface. Then tap on lightly with your finger on all four corners in order to find out if it is completely flat.
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@Dim3nsioneer: I printed my test object in different orientations including 90° infill direction and it made no difference.
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Yep, rods were part of the +Kit.
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Vielleicht wurde das schon bedacht, dennoch die Frage. Statt einer Wasserkühlung könnte man nicht ein Peltier-Element einsetzen? Die Hitze kann ja problemlos nach hinten ausstrahlen wenn man das über heatpipes transportiert.
Ich weiss allerdings nicht ob die Kühlleistung ausreicht.
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The play in x-direction is pretty easy to fix. Take a close look at the pulleys that are fixed on the x-rods. They should sit flush next to whatever is on their left side (a black spacer most likely). If that's not the case, loosen up the pulley and move it outwards until it is flus. Repeat this for all pulleys and take care that the toothed belt does run straight.
On my printer one spacer was too short so I printed one myself - works perfectly.
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Hey @Crema,
wollte nur bescheid geben - mache daraus ein fertiges Produkt welches sich ideallerweise auch mit dem UM2+ verträgt und das Ding ist bei einem Preis von 200-300€ gekauft!
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I have no idea what happened there other than maybe a bad batch of filament that either drew too much moisture or was otherwise damaged.
Whatever you do, do clean the long z-screw because a fine strand of ABS did attach to it and if you move the bed up now, it would get caught up in the z-nut.
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Oh this thread is still alive!
I have installed the UM2+ extrusion upgrade kit and the issue is gone. So at least I can say the frame is not at fault (because that's still the same)
Before upgrading I put the printer through quite some hardship and printed a LOT with XTCF-20. I noticed the knurled mantle on the feeder motor was worn out a bit. It make sense if that's the cause because then the feeder wouldn't be able to transport enough material.
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Nun wenn du bereit bist einen zweiten Extruder "dazu zu hacken", dann sollte das Aufmachen des Feeders kein Problem sein. Da drin befindet sich ein Kugellager, ein Ritzel welches das Filament antreibt sowie eine Feder die alles unter Spannung hält. Beim UM2+ hingegen wird das über ein Getriebe übersetzt. Das kommt noch dazu.
Schau dir mal die Bauteile-Liste an.
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Wait until it cools and then it comes off. A bit harder than PLA+heated bed for example, but I did not have any problems so far. Never broke something.
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With hacking I mean that it is not officially supported to swap the board with something else on the UM2. I don't know what you'd need to do. I guess there is lots of Marlin firmware hacking involved.
UM2 bleibt mitten im Druck stehen
in Deutsch
Posted
Hi,
das liegt vermutlich daran dass der Lüfter zu viel Luft auf die Nozzle bläst und das in der Firmware einen Schutz auslöst und den Drucker anhält, falls die Temperatur und die Heizleistung zu sehr schwankt.
Lass mich raten - auf dem Display steht sowas wie "Error: Temp bla bla irgendwas"?
Wenn ja, dann solltest du einen neuen Lüfterhalter drucken. Ich kann diesen hier sehr empfehlen:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fan-mount-um2-olsson-block
Ansonsten, damit du erstmal wieder vernünftig drucken kannst, solltest du in den erweiterten Einstellungen "Fan full on at height (mm)" auf 1 oder 1.5 mm einstellen.