Nicolinux
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Nicolinux
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My longest print was 23 hours and the damn filament tangled after 22 hours!!!! It was an Yoda-Head-Vase. But with the tipps from @gr5 I managed to resume the print.
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Ok, dann lag es an den Lüftern. Gut zu wissen.
Die Einstellung für die Druckkopf-Koordinaten findest du in Cura im Menü "Machine" -> "Machine Settings". Schau dir dann die Werte an für "Printer head size" auf der rechten Seite.
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@neotko: The nozzles have a different height, but I re-leveled the bed upon each nozzle change. Long tip looks like this:
Sort tip like this:
I'll test the bed (and try to fix the other possible causes you mentioned in your first post).
@IRobertI: Temps are very stable. Ever since I switched to a 35W heater and a new temp sensor (also performed PID Autotune), the temp barely twitches even when the fans come on.
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Thanks for the hints everyone.
@neotko: Sadly I can say "check" to everything you mentioned. But these things are very minimal.
@peggyb: Alright, I did another test and printed 5 times the same object (same .gcode file) but with different nozzles/filament. Btw. here is the .gcode file (prints at 30mm/s and takes around an hour to complete): Link
1. E3D 0.4 Nozzle, colorFabb Orange
2. Jet 0.4 Nozzle (long tip), colorFabb Orange
3. Jet 0.4 Nozzle (long tip), Faberdashery White
4. Jet 0.4 Nozzle (short tip), Faberdashery White
5. Jet 0.4 Nozzle (short tip), colorFabb Orange
I'd say the nozzle and filament makes a bit of a difference, but some "horizontal gaps" are still there.
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Well, we could start here and report what features are missing here.
Then.. when we actually start to build it we can include those suggestions.
Yep, just did. Connect this platform idea with recurring contests and you'd have a lot of feedback in a very short time
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I would love to have such a platform, but it would need to have very little "processing overhead". Which means it needs to be unobtrusive and light on features since "making" is the most important thing where most work would be done outside of the platform. Ideally such a platform would simplify communication and organization of joint projects.
Right now I am in the middle of such a joint project (Delta 3D printer) with two other people. Last year we have met here on the forum and planed to build a Delta printer. After some preparation we met in person for a weekend and worked on the printers. We didn't finish them there so everyone of us had to continue working on their own. At that time we used email exclusively to communicate.
This time we decided to build another bigger/better Delta. So far we have used (and are using) the following tools:
- Google Docs for the BOM (part list)
- Email for communication
- Whatsapp group for even faster communication
- Bitbucket Server Git repo for CAD files - modeled with Moi3D
- Confluence for documentation
Hardware projects are not much different than software projects. Since most parts are digitally designed anyway, these can be treated as pieces of code.
I am a big fan of Atlassian software and used to be an user group leader for them. Ideally such a cooperation platform would have the ease of use of Confluence for documentation, robust task management features of Jira, quick communication (+archive with search) of HipChat and code cooperation capabilities of Bitbucket Server.
There is one thing missing though. Printed prototypes will be shared often and a super easy photo sharing feature would be most welcome (maybe even an app that's directly tied in with the platform and uploads photos shot on the phone directly to the selected joint project).
After all everything boils down to organization. When many people work on the same thing, there will be a phase of wild excitement where ideas are thrown around and tested. The greatest challenge would be to have a system that brings some order in the chaos without hampering creativity. On one hand it would be "easy" to build a system with tons of features where users are required to run through a complicated workflow in order to submit new content. Yet this would kill the project for sure.
On the other hand, just the forum and nothing else would allow for too much uncoordinated content and would lead to chaos.
If nothing else, you could start with an Atlassian stack and configure it so it has many unnecessary features disabled. Then test it internally for a small project.
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- Google Docs for the BOM (part list)
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I should have said - for a cooperation platform
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... what are you guys waiting for?
For the UM2X
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Nice idea! So swapping not only middle parts, but entire tops. I dig that! Even for filament only printing, fiddeling with the print head to swap parts that would survive long ABS prints is not fun (and I say this as the only human on earth who has disassembled his printhead more than 100 times...)
Although I think that swapping an entire top would be a bit too much for filament changes only. But I'd love to be able to convert my UM2 to a paste extruder in a matter of minutes and not days.
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Yes as I said, there is a limit to it (height, rigidity), yet these are technical problems that can be tackled to an extent. Rods and screws are relatively cheap so replacing them with every extension wouldn't be a problem.
But I think the main reason is simply because the user does not know better what he will need later. Say you start with a regular sized UM2. Then you realize you'd need something bigger. Instead of buying an UM2 Extended, you could buy another "stack" (or "module" or "blade") and extend the print height. This upgrade won't be as expensive as a new printer, and might appeal to a broader user range. And going beyond that, such an extended printer might achieve a pretty insane build height (something to rival Delta printers for example).
The fact that the UM hardware designers kept the frame very simple and moved the rods and electronics to the top/bottom, begs for this thing to be cut up in the middle in order to be extended
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Hi,
Ever since the UM2 Extended was introduced, I've had this idea stuck in my head about a modular UM2 design. This is a quick (and inaccurate) sketch:
What if instead of a bigger UM2, there would be an UM2X which can be eXtended with those modules stacked one over the other. Sure there is a limit to it and the z-screw, z-stage-rods, bowden, connecting cables would need to be replaced too. But I think the appeal of this design is the relatively easy upgrade and a gain of another 10cm build height. The connecting interface would need to be adjusted too but with clever design, cables for example could have connector plugs from the get go where a new module would just latch its cables in place (instead of replacing _all_ cables).
What do you think?
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Or just slice the same object twice and in between change the gcode flavor. Save the two .gcode files to disk and then use a diff tool to see the textual differences.
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It depends of the gcode flavor you have set. If you haven an UM2, then Cura is set to "UltiGcode" where values are in mm^3. Regular gcode refers to mm of filament.
You can set the gcode flavor in Cura in the menu -> "Machine" -> "Machine Settings" -> "Gcode flavor".
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+1 for regular contests.
I don't think prizes need to be super high value, but I do think that they should be UM related. I am all for swag (mugs, t-shirts, stickers, bags) - basically everything that looks stylish, has a purpose and accommodates an Ultimaker logo
.As for themes, I'd keep the entry barrier low too. The learning aspect is important and sharing the gcode/settings/whatever would be very cool because everyone would be able to print the winning entry.
You could let the community decide who wins by counting the number of likes/hearts. And letting the winner decide upon the next theme is a great idea.
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Hi,
hast du mal probiert die Originallüfter dran zu hängen? Einfach um auszuschliessen dass es an den Lüftern liegt.
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Hi,
it looks like there is too little filament extruded or maybe extruded at the wrong temperature.
Check that there is nothing stuck in the feeder at the back. Then try the "atomic method" to clean the nozzle from the inside:
https://ultimaker.com/en/manuals/149-atomic-method
If the prints still fail, you can check the temperature sensor. It might not fully connect to the nozzle and send weird temperature readings. You can skip step 2. in the following guide:
https://ultimaker.com/en/manuals/252-disassembly
In any case, do take a closer look at the printer while it prints. Does the feeder motor at the back jump back from time to time? Or is the filament unobstructed and can move freely?
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Hi,
ich würde die Drucker nicht als völlig neu angeben wenn du schreibst dass alles super funktioniert denn das impliziert dass die Drucker schon benutzt wurden.
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Hi Valentina,
You could contact the official reseller in UK. Maybe they offer a rental service:
And if this doesn't work, you could try 3DHubs and filter for your location and the Ultimaker 2. I did this for you here: Link.
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Noch eine Idee. Unter Wasser mit sehr feinem Schmirgelpapier bearbeiten.
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Hello cool thread, long time no see
Here is one of my latest monster prints. Every triangle piece weights around 120g. My UM2 is a trooper. I've constantly printed at 260° for weeks and it is still alive (lost some PTFE couplers during that time but it was expected). Material is colorFabb XTCF-20.
[print=72][/print]
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Die Drucker sollten die gleichen Komponenten verbaut haben.
Das ist schwierig zu debuggen. Ich könnte mir vorstellen dass der Temperatursensor bei Drucker 4 etwas verrutscht ist und nicht richtig auslesen kann. Oder es wurde fälschlicherweise eine schwächere Heizpatrone eingebaut.
Ich bin noch am überlegen wie man das am besten testen kann.
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Du könntest das mit dem Feuerzeug sehr vorsichtig behandeln. Nur ganz kurz dran halten. Und am besten vorher mit einem Testteil ausprobieren.
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Ok, next thing to check is the filament itself. Does it still have a diameter of 2.85mm?
Another idea, check the feeder to see if there aren't any bits of broken or ground filament stuck.
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Hi,
The problem you describe is most likely due to an partially clogged nozzle. Take a look at this tutorial about the so called "Atomic Method":
Seitliche Lüfter summen nur und laufen nicht
in Deutsch
Posted
Ne das merkt sich der Drucker leider nicht. Was in Cura eingestellt ist, wird quasi für jedes Objekt angewendet. Ich bin mir allerdings nicht sicher welche Werte in der Firmware gespeichert werden. Du kannst aber den Drucker fragen was es alles gespeichert hat. Schau dir mal dazu diesen Thread von mir an: Link. Da geht es zwar um PID Autotune, aber das ist nicht wichtig. Wichtig ist erstmal die Verbindung per USB und das Tool Printrun. Dann das Befehl "M503" eingeben und anschauen was zurückgeliefert wird. Die Liste der von der Marlin-Firmware unterstützten Gcodes findest du hier: Link.