Nicolinux
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Nicolinux
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Since your Cura settings might be messed up, you could switch the quick print profiles (menu "Expert") and then switch to full settings. Cura will warn/ask you that this will overwrite any custom settings you made. That's a good way to actually see how those quick print profiles are set.
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It depends on the Cura version. In my Cura (15.04.4) the shell thickness for the "high quality" setting is set to 0.9!! And infill speed is still at 80mm/s which is way too high if you print at the default temp of 210°
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UPDATE
They responded to my question on the comparison (on Youtube). Here is the answer:
Hi Sorin, the overall print speed for Simplify3D changes throughout the print. Simplify3D designates different print speeds for different areas of the model (e.g First layer, Infill, Outline etc). We used the preset High quality setting and only changed the infill amount to match Cura at 20%. The Simplify3D print took around 4 minutes longer to print. Hope that helps. -
Um welche Ultimaker 2 handelt es sich genau (UM2+ oder UM2, Extended?) und wann wurden diese gekauft?
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Hi,
I think this feature has been requested several times. I guess it is just quite hard to implement properly. But I sure do miss it from time to time. Hopefully the new Cura version will support it at some point.
In the mean time here is a workaround. You could load your .stl file in Meshmixer and add support struts there. Then export the new .stl file and slice it with Cura. Here is a handy tutorial: link.
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Hi,
I have an interesting problem and I'd need your opinion.
These two objects have been printed with similar print settings.
Yet the first one has a weird surface. Looks like some layers are retracted inwards or missing. Not sure if this is under extrusion. I've run the cylinder test and it came out perfectly (same filament):
I noticed this behavior on very fine prints with curved surfaces before. I can't say when it appeared first but it might coincide with the switch to the Olsson Block.
What do you think?
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Looking at the vide I'd say the default speed setting in Cura was way too high for that model. The head moves very fast so I assume Simplify3D just prints way slower...
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Ich weiss nicht genau welches Geräusch du meinst. Ich höre ein "tok" zwischendurch und das hört sich verdächtig danach an als ob der Feeder-Motor zurückspringt wegen zu hohem Druck im Druckkopf.
Ansonsten schau dir in den Ecken die Zahnriemen an ob sie auch richtig auf den Zahnrädern aufliegen. Bei mir war ein Plastik-Abstandshalter nicht lang genug und das brachte das Zahnriemen dazu nicht gerade zu laufen.
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Hm, now that you mention it... I have a clip that holds the bowden in place which is fairly thick. This means the bowden presses with a lot of force against the coupler. Thanks for the idea, I will print a thinner clip.
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Thanks Robert.
I was able to get rid of the problem by swapping the bowden tube. I think this happens because the hole is not centered in the tube. Check out the picture, the hole is a bit too far up north.
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Ok, to answer my question from before - I've changed the bowden tube and now the filament passes the PTFE coupler entry point without problems. At least one problem is gone...
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Nice, ok. I'll keep it in mind.
Alright, in the process of debugging this issue, I dusted off the side fans too (with the vacuum cleaner) and broke a wire from one fan. Re-soldered it (almost SMD style - man those things are tiny).
Since I took the head apart three times today, now there's something new. Usually when I re-assemble it and push the filament in by hand (Robert's feeder is open), I can push it all the way into the head until the filament hits the spot where the nozzle tapers off.
Now I can't push the filament past the entry point into the PTFE coupler. If I start a print the motor forces the filament through and at some point I hear a "tok" and it jumps past the PTFE entry point. This is new.
When I take out the bowden tube and push the filament in from the top (for atomic cleaning for example), then it passes the PTFE coupler without problems. The bowden looks clean and is not deformed at the end.
The only thing I remember related to this behavior is that there was some resistance when the filament passed the PTFE entry point.
I fiddled with the metal plates and thought that they are not aligned well, but that's not the case either.
Maybe this is a clue, although I don't know what causes it.
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@gr5: Ok, nice - I didn't know about the new 3dsolex couplers.
@Labern: I think that might be it. A long time ago I swapped the default 3rd fan (which is super loud) with this one: MC25100V2-000U-A99 (air flow: 3.0 CFM which is around 5m^3/h). I don't know how much air volume the default 3rd fan can move but I just made a test and held my hand against it. And damn the default noisy fan seems to be "stronger". So this means all this time I might have shortened the lifespan of those PTFE couplers because of the stupid fan :(
I was not able to find a better/stronger fan at this size. Where does UM get them from?
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Hm when I think about it, the right distance between the two metal plates should be already set when they are screwed together. So when I leave out the spring (or spring replacement) and just screw the two plates together, the distance amounts to 17.14mm
Does this sound right?
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Hey Robert, could you be so naughty and find out the size of that spacer? I am sure with my mad modeling skills, I could design and print my own
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The only way I can see it failing that fast is if the temperature is _way_ off or there is some crazy amount of pressure on it. If the temperature was way off I would expect to see some sort of problem with the print as well like excessive oozing, "bubbling" etc. But you're too much of a veteran to make something like that pass by.
Veteran Blush (anime style)
The temp sensor is brand new and I also performed PID Autotune. I didn't notice anything unusual with the filament.
Excessive pressure could be the problem I guess. Ultimaker was very clear with us that the distance between the two metal plates was quite critical on the UM2+ to keep the coupler in place just right.
It's a bit strange no doubt.
Also @gr5, you must be one lucky SOB to not have seen a ruined PTFE yet. I've seen... a "few"...
The thing is - what is the right pressure? I printed the spring replacement and then screw in the metal collet a lot so there was barely any distance between the collet and the coupler. I did this in order to lessen the pressure on the coupler enforced by the spring replacement.
Not sure what to do now. I have a new coupler. Try it with the spring replacement and screw it in to barely have any pressure or just use the regular spring?
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Btw. the server was down for a bit last night and now the forum loads way faster. Maybe the hardware was upgraded or a sneaky new version was deployed?
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Guys, we're getting off topic.
Here is a picture of the failed coupler. I cut it up and held it in a weird way in order to visualize the dent.
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Hi,
das geht mir genau so. Ich habe es auch nur einmal gesehen, auch wenn ich mich nicht anmelde. Ich denke die Logik ist so:
1. Für die Forumssoftware unbekannter Besucher wird erkannt - Popup anzeigen und im Cookie speichern dass er es bereits gesehen hat.
2. Beim nächsten Besuch wird geprüft ob der Besucher das Popup bereits gesehen hat - wenn nicht, siehe 1.
Da die meisten ihre Cookies nicht nach jeder Session löschen, funktioniert die Logik.
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Hm seltsam. Ich weiss nicht warum solche Werte erzeugt werden. Vielleicht ist dein Temperatursensor entweder nicht richtig eingebaut (vielleicht hat nicht genügend Kontaktfläche mit der Nozzle) und liesst die Werte sehr schräg aus.
Ansonsten vom Ablauf her hast du es schon richtig gemacht. Zunächst alles auf 0 setzen, speichern und dann autotune laufen lassen.
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I was using the spring replacement with this coupler that failed after 10 hours.
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I hope I did - would be pretty embarrassing otherwise
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Really? I guess I've never seen it happen so I don't know what to look for. I could interpret the shadows several different ways inside the ptfe. I'm not an expert on failed ptfe because I've never had one fail.
Man lucky you. I just threw away a hand full of failed couplers - all with dents inside...
@gr5: I'll be there for sure. Can't wait
Maybe @ultiarjan ist right, maybe the pressure was too high. But still - I don't think it is normal for a coupler to die that fast, even under greater pressure.
@neotko: Sadly the dent is pretty deep so I'd have to cut a lot off the coupler. I have the I2K chip but somehow I never had luck with it. Regardless of what I did, there was always under extrusion with it.
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Hey Sander, I am using Google Chrome on a Mac and I don't delete cookies that often but my session here on the forum expires after roughly 1 hour... This doesn't happen with other sites/platforms (so soon).
A Coffee between friends :-) How was Your Day ?
in Coffee corner
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Wow this sound awesome. Does he have a close-up picture of the hand?