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Dim3nsioneer

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Posts posted by Dim3nsioneer

  1. I think it's a good idea. As long as the one spool size is reasonable (looks as if bending issues were taken into account)...

    However there will hardly be just one spool size as e.g. 100m and 2.2kg is quite a different amount of filament and thus requires different spools. But at least one should get rid of these silly small spools where you can throw away the last third...

    The proprietary spool systems of other 3D printer manufacturers will of course stay the same. But hey, everybody has to find his own way to make himself unhappy... :wink:

     

  2. No, for some reason it's seeing COM3 as an USB serial port, which I'm not sure if it should in your case.

    Cura reads the registry keys from "HARDWARE\\DEVICEMAP\\SERIALCOMM", and checks if there is an USBSER in there. It has done so for quite a while already, so I'm confused why it would show up COM3 all of a sudden if it did not before.

    I've just overwritten machineCom.py with the present git version and now it works as it should... let's see for how long...

     

  3. Hi!

    I tested it yesterday but got a few troubles when merging my modifications into the Eric-Version.

    I will play with it a bit more today and see what comes out... :smile:

    Why don't you try it the other way round? Merging just the changes for the new functionality into your personal Marlin code might be more safe and lead to quick success... :-P

     

  4. In general people that are good at translating do not have the skill to setup git and send a pull request.

    I would not blindly agree on this. Setting up git and sending pull requests can be learned.

    But the effort to get translations was done already. However, like I said, the result... I'm not that happy with it. So this is a difficult thing. Should I provide crappy translations from the community, or no translations?

    If I don't understand any word in a certain language, I'm glad to get even a crappy translation... and don't forget: after all, Cura is for free (in terms of you don't have to pay for it). But I can understand you. I also have a tendency to be over-critical with my own work sometimes. I had to learn that in most businesses, 80% is or has to be sufficient.

    Also, by providing more language options, I will get bug reports in other languages, that I cannot handle.

    Yes, you will. And that's why I suggested you pick yourself two to three people from the forum for each language onto which you can pass the reported bugs. I agree that maintaining languages for which no native 'translation partner' exists does not make much sense.

     

  5. Except that now you have to re-level every few hours for about 10 months as it takes about that long for the arms to stop drooping.

    I hope to have at least reduced this effect (maybe not completely) by using additional aluminium struts along the arms. But thank you for reminding me so I can keep it under observation.

    btw: Why not adding weight in the unused space between the z thread and the vertical rods? No base to put it onto? Shouldn't be too difficult to change that with a 3D printer... ;)

     

  6. Hi Daid

    The best way to deal with the various languages in Cura may be to involve people from this forum. You may want to have two or three people (because one is none...) for each language who check the existing translations and issue new pull-up request for translation corrections. These people should ideally be natives of the languages in question and would also have to understand the english original texts properly.

    Before a new Cura release you could request a translation checking from these volunteers with a deadline. In such a way, internal manpower requirements are sized down to your manpower for accepting the pull-up requests. What do you think? It's of course up to you but I remember several people having already volunteered here in the forum for checking their native language translations. I would e.g. volunteer for the german translation if needed.

     

  7. More good news: It's already in the official version (thx ErikZalm!)

    [...]

    I will give it a try, when I've figured out how to get it in my printer...

    The answer on, How to?, will be here on the forums I guess.

    Have a look here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4347-how-to-compile-marlin-firmware/, especially post no. 6 by gr5.

    [...]

    Side question: HB support is as usually via config.h and preheat is also included - isnt?

    configuration.h, yes, there are quite a lot of comments in the file which show you, how to activate and chose features. In your case it's important to acitvate the bed. But be careful with the Bed-PID option. Only use that one if you have a solid state relay. Alternatively, you can run marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com and save the configuration.h from there.

    Preheat of the bed is included in preheating PLA and preheating ABS with the preset temperature each. I have not yet included the separate extruder1, extruder2 and bed heating in my fork.

     

  8. Today, I made my first prints on a basalt bed from QuintessentialUniversalBuildingDevice (it was easier when they called themselves QU-BD... ;) ). 'Fascinating' as a famous character with spiky ears would say. It's absolutely great! Heat it to 60 degree and the PLA sticks like hell. Let it cool down and just take the print away... ok, it takes its time to cool down... but by far the best material I printed on so far...

    And the other good thing: it gives weight to the z stage which is really not a disadvantage with an UM1...

     

  9. Today, I successfully implemented above mentioned code. On my Marlin fork, you can now find the implementation of individually (means per extruder) adjustable flow rate. Be aware that new adjustment factors were introduced (as described above).

    This is the path to my fork: https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Marlin If someone wants to test the new code but needs assistance, please feel free to send me a PM. A pull-up to the official Marlin version has been issued.

    There is also an experimental version of the TweakAtZ plugin which uses the new possibility: https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/raw/master/TweakAtZ.3.1.2_IEF.py

     

  10. I don't see any other option than to take the scheme of the Ultimaker shield and to check the voltages starting from the power supply. Try to move the power cable and check if you can provoke a reset.

    Is it possible you make a video of such a shutdown and post it here?

     

  11. I tried disconnecting all end stop switches (I disconnect also the home switches after the print starts)

    After a printing a few layers now the printer controller resets (like turning the power off/on).

    I checked and cleaned from dust the controller fan but no effect

    Sounds like a loose contact somewhere in the main power region, maybe even the power supply itself...do you have any possibility to measure voltages on the main board?

     

  12. Yes, done. No effect

     

    So it's still behaving erratic after restart? In this case it might have something to do with a part heating up. Some thermo-mechanical issue. A loose contact maybe which gets (partially) disconnected if the surrounding sees thermal expansion.

    If it's again behaving normal after restart, then it's most probably something velocity related as gr5 just wrote...

     

  13. Strange. I just checked the registry. No USBSER there except the entries from software installation (I guess, I'm not a registry expert), but not where you indicated. It's not possible Cura finds some other USBSER key?

    COM3 is actually the port my UM gets if connected. I see two possible origins of the issue:

    - I recently installed the Arduino tool, connected it and uploaded a custom Marlin version to my UM. Maybe this changed something else in the registry... :???:

    - Windows update... no further comment needed I guess... :rolleyes:

    btw: It's Win8.0...

     

  14. i would love to setup a line spacing for the first layer. like a different nozzle size. because when i squeeze the first lines they are much bigger than 0.4 mm. i would like to print the first lines so that they are barely touching each other.

    I think with this i could go for a much higher first layer speed and a better surface on the bottom side.

    Sounds to me as if you could improve your bed leveling. Maybe your head is just a bit too close to the bed? If you have an UM1 or a UM2 with flavor RepRap you may also add an offset to your start.gcode for correction.

    I usually also adjust the flow for the first layer (to something like 90%) and get a very nice first layer.

     

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