Dim3nsioneer
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Posts posted by Dim3nsioneer
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If the knurled nut is zinc-plated and the screw is made out of stainless steel then the knurled nut will soon show rust when the two are kept in an environment with high humidity. It's a question of the standard electrode potential.
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Apart from being a really bad story which causes much trouble and costs it is somehow a prove that the UM2 is a useful product for which some people are even taking substantial legal risks.
Most likely they will appear one by one somewhere like Ebay making it difficult to identify by the serial number before purchase.
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If you don't find any connective problems: I had a similar issue when I once ran the Cura installation test wizard on my UM1. None of the end switches responded After restart of - if I remember correctly - both PC with Cura and Ultimaker it worked as it should have.
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I will testing this:
At one side you mount your axial fan. At the other side you have the outflow. I think ist ready at weekend.
If possible, add some centimeters to the round part (where the fan is mounted). The axial fan will show a bit more power. Well, actually, you will loose less power as the setup induces a really huge pressure drop. Don't be disappointed if you don't get any air out of the slit. At least you will certainly hear the fan... :wink:
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Ultimaker-Somnambulism...
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This is a quick picture of the adaptor itself including the bearing and two M3 hex nuts.
I may put the design onto Youmagine but for that I'll have to shoot some pictures of the piece actually mounted.
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It's up on Youmagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive-um-original
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[...]
By the way, I rolled my rods on the table yesterday (does that sound a little odd? o.O) and thought they weren't perfectly straight. But honestly - it could just as well be the table. Are the specifications for the original rods known? Like is there a BOM available for the public?
I did the same with the original rods and for one the straightness could be better... There is a BOM but it says nothing about detailed specs.
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two more things to check:
- are the belts tightened?
- are the belts too tight? You would hear a quite loud noise from the stepper motors when they skip steps.
What size are the shifts? cm? mm? tenths? A picture of the shifted print might help to find the source...
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If a status display on a product tells you to contact the company then you probably should do that. Just http://support.ultimaker.com/index.php?/Tickets/Submit. You can raise the priority of the ticket. If Ultimaker support tells you that everything is ok and you can run it, you're fine.
The UM2 has a CE declaration. This means it is declared to be safe under certain conditions (see warnings, notes and info messages in the UM2 manual).
It's not possible to say a device is safe per se. If you put an Ultimaker into a haystack you don't have to wonder about setting the haystack at fire. If you put it into a room with just concrete walls, floor and ceiling where's nothing which can burn, it is extremely safe (overkill). The safety of the device (up to a well-defined level) is Ultimaker's responsibility (because of the CE declaration). To run it safely in your environment and taking error messages seriously is yours.
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The sleep message usually appears if a layer doesn't reach the minimum layer time and the cool head lift feature in Cura's expert settings is enabled. Sometimes messages just stay longer than they should.
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Depends on what the parts of the 200°C hot nozzle are landing on...
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I remember a post not too long ago (I can't remember by whom) of a quite serious happening. The print was delaminating and the print head got entangled into the plastic nonsense and got stuck. The result was a broken nozzle which made a quite loud noise. That was with a UM1, I think.
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Is this a new kind of arm wrestling? :grin:
Are the distances of the extruder screw and the adjustments of the stepper drivers known for these values?
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This is a quick picture of the adaptor itself including the bearing and two M3 hex nuts.
I may put the design onto Youmagine but for that I'll have to shoot some pictures of the piece actually mounted.
EDIT: You will also need http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:54075 for fixation of the rod...
And as it is: just five minutes after having implemented this work-around I got an offering for longer rods with a straightness of 0.02-0.04mm... :wacko:
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I think you might run into trouble with the exactness of the rod positioning if you weaken their mechanical support (meaning the mounting of the bearings). The standard solution with the bearings firmly in place inside the precision-cut frame walls is probably hard to match with printed parts that are somehow attached to the frame.
But please prove me wrong! I'd love to have a solution with the stock rods.
I know a Swiss metal trader (metall-laden.ch) who does have stainless steel rods with 5mm,8mm and more diameters. But I don't think these are precision "shaft" rods. I'll have to check though; will visit them when I have time.
It works. I designed a nice adapter which relocates one bearing by something like 16-18mm. On second try I managed to print it in exactly the right size for the bearing. I just printed the first backlash test piece with direct drive on both axis. I have now a resdiual backlash of incredible 50um on each axis. I'm actually very happy that I got rid of the short belts. Quality is greatly improved! :smile: :smile:
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Yes, it is traffic red. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26334is the model (one piece of the four, but they look the same in terms of print quality).
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I'm in the middle of a long print so I can't verify this on the machine, but I rebooted and started fresh and it looks like the G-code does now have references to TweakAtZ in it. I didn't realize that the plugin doesn't actually change the feed rate parameter directly ("G1 F*"), rather it invokes another M-code (M220 IIRC, new one on me) to adjust it indirectly. So it's very likely that the combination of this misunderstanding, and my prior overlooking of the minimum layer time clamping the feed rate, is responsible, and everything is working as it was designed. I'll verify this when I get a chance, but I believe things are probably working fine.
Thanks everyone for putting up with my noobishness again!
You found it... :wink:
The plugin doesn't change any F-commands. But if you have set the flavor to 'RepRap' and put a different setting into the 'Flow' box in the basic settings tab in Cura, then this will change the F-Codes. So if you want to start with e.g. 90% and then switch to 100% flow, you should not put the 90% into the flow box but add a M220 S90 statement in your start.gcode. Or you put the 90% flow into the basic settings and put 111% into the plugin flow box in order to get again 90% * 111% = 100%.
I guess I just have removed any clearness... :wacko:
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Very odd. I downloaded the plugin from that link just now, installed it in the proper directory (moving the existing one elsewhere so it wouldn't be found), and tried it, and it still isn't working. I downloaded Cura 13.12 (I had been running 14.01), still nothing. I've made sure to select RepRap G-code generation in the Machine Settings. Not sure what I'm missing or if this is just a bug. I'm just asking it to lower the speed at 5mm from 40 mm/s to 13 mm/s (something I can easily search for manually), but it stays at 40mm/s the whole time. Kind of a bummer, TweakAtZ and PauseAtZ both seem really useful to me but it appears that neither works on my system for some reason.
Edit: Mac OS X 10.9.1
At which height do you want TweakAtZ to change the speed?
EDIT: Sorry, I overlooked the 5mm... So you put 32.5 into the speed box, correct? There are other people claiming Cura doesn't execute a plugin or that it works sometimes and sometimes not. The only thing I can recommend from the distance is to close Cura, reopen it and check it again.
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[...] but does height in mm, not layer number [...]
Not yet... :wink: (have a glimpse at the Wiki page...)
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Dim3nsioneer, what is the size of the object?
Uhm, I don't have it right in front of me but the width you see must be something like 5-6cm. Is that sufficient for your question?
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If you connect the steppers in series instead of in parallel, then it may work
That way you don't need double the current, but double the voltage across the motors. Afaik the motors run on a very low voltage - most of the power is actually burnt away in the drivers, so you may even get cooler stepper drivers by connecting two motors in series
Owen mentioned in another thread that he connected 3 steppers in series. Haven't tried it myself but I don't see any problems with that...
Still, you'll need lots of steppers which is kind of uneconomical (what a hypocrite I am, always being the uneconomical one myself, I know I know).
That's actually the way to deal with mutliple current driven devices, yes.
It should even be safe in terms of the controller doing still the right thing (limit the current). However it is to check if the stepper driver has components with a power limit which could be exceeded. I guess the isolation of the two coils inside the steppers against ground (casing) is good enough. Otherwise one stepper would be charged up by some volts. Any idea what voltage is needed for the typical 1.1-1.2 amps? (yes, I could measure it, but if one of you knows it already... :rolleyes: )
The two additional steppers are not the only thing which is uneconomical. But nearly any modification of an Ultimaker is uneconomical... :wink:
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@Daid: As I'm not giving up so easily :wink: : What about the second theoretical possibility? I just had a quick lock at the scheme. I guess there should be no problem with the pull-ups (maybe a separate pull-up resistor for the second MS1? Or even a separate jumper block including the 4.7K). VDD, VMot and GND are anyway common to all the drivers. RST and SLP have to be connected separately for each driver. What about EN, STEP and DIR? Would these signals break down in amplitude when connected to two drivers? And last but most important question: Is there enough power left from the Shield to run additional two motors? Most probably that is the problem...
@foehnsturm: Without any belts I would expect the backlash to go down to something very small. The torque per axis would actually be significantly smaller as one stepper would not have to drive two connected rods.
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Is there a way to run two steppers for the same axis? I'm thinking about a all-direct-drive having one stepper on each x and y rods.
Theoretically there are two possibilities:
- Connect two steppers with the same stepper driver. Most likely the driver is not designed to drive two steppers in parallel, correct?
- Connect one stepper per driver and connect two drivers in parallel to the Arduino Shield. Possible? I don't know the interface.
Is there anybody with know-how about the UM1 electronics who could tell me something about the limits of the stepper drivers (Pololu A4988)?
I'm not looking for a quick and dirty solution. It has to be safe.
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After having just a very quick look at the code I think it's a nice piece of software. Thank you for sharing!
Sometimes 'lifting the head' can be something nice indeed. I wrote myself a similar plugin when improving results with the dual extruder where oozing is much more visible than just with one extruder. But actually mine is coupled to retraction while yours executes the lift at certain logical points.
You may add the 'help' preamble in order to automatically link the plugin in Cura to the Wiki page with the description.
UM1: first layer height problems
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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Is it possible that the upper z end switch shifted down somehow? Then the stage would stop earlier which would result in a large distance between nozzle and bed.