Dim3nsioneer
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Posts posted by Dim3nsioneer
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I just found this:
http://www.faqs.org/patents/app/20130307193
It's about using very small points for the support structure in order to easily break it away after print. Its publication date is less than a week ago. And it's from 3D SYSTEMS. They seem to have similar strategies about patents as Stratasys.
However, in this special case it is obvious that other people had this strategy before. The support in Meshmixer (which is a Autodesk product; also not the smallest company in the World) works quite similar.
So, this is going to be quite interesting. The big companies begin to issue patents which could make not only the life of the open source community quite hard but also the ones of their competitors. I guess we will soon see some kind of patent war between the big ones like those between Google, Apple and Samsung.
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Very interesting project! Will you share the results...(now you have to after teasing everybody... :smile: )?
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Does anyone know what the situation is in other countries than the USA (I admit the USA are a very big market but not the whole World)? Especially in Europe?
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I used Ultimaker silver, Ultimaker red and Ultimaker blue. It does ooze a bit. But, the UM2 hotend oozes less then the UM-Original hotend, so that helped for me.
(But, the UM2 hotend in dual-extrusion still has some cooling issues right now. So it jams quite easy)
I don't know what you're talking about... there is no UM2 dual extruder... :wink:
Is the Ultimaker PLA pure PLA or also PLA/PHA mixture as the Colorfabb stuff?
Could you say something about the speed?
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I would like to see some dual extruder prints where the idle extruder has to cross already printed material. I'm currently trying this: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/target-dual-extrusion-test. I usually scale it down to half its size. Although the ooze shield certainly helps, I still get a mess... The problem is the idle extruder oozing while over the print (no ooze shield of the world can help with this...).
I'm especially surprised to read about printing at 220°C. I'm currently working at 194°C and the oozing is still awful. Daid, did you do your 220°C-prints with Ultimaker PLA? At which speed?
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Obviously US patent office did not think it was state of the technology at the moment the patent was submitted.
Some companies may try to ignore it and use the 'state-of-technology' argument if charged by Stratasys. But which ones? Maybe 3D-Systems or some company of similar size. Certainly not Ultimaker...
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Hey Daid
I'm very sorry but I think I found a bug in the dual extrusion of Cura. To me it looks as if Cura takes the filament diameter no. 1 for both filaments even when filament diameter 2 is filled in with a non-zero value.
I just tried to do some dual extrusion print with filament 1 being 2.9mm in diameter and filament 2 being 2.8mm in diameter... and I got a mess for material 2 (too much material, which I never got when printing this material alone).
I then checked some lines of the gcode and .... yes, as I said, I'm sorry... it seems to go back even to Cura 13.06.4 (first Cura version I used).
Please let me know if there is a work-around....
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Thanks for the hint with the weight. As being a Swiss I will of course take Gold instead of Lead... :wink:
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You mean, you combined two materials? You mean, you did exactly what Ultimaker says in the description of the dual extruder what should not be done...? :shock: :cool:
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I just found out the flexible coupling for the z stage has a serious catch:
see http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3527-z-stage-hangs/
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After chasing irregular horizontal lines appearing in my prints for over a week I think I finally found the cause. I accidentally watched the z stage as it was jammed at one layer and suddenly dropped leaving a layer with massive underextrusion.
Jamming was possible as I used a flexible coupling (which was unfortunately also flexible in z direction).
For the time being I remounted the original Ultimaker coupling which makes sure there are no such lines. However, the z wobble increase a bit... :sad:
As other people had similar issues with their Ultimaker Originals, I would like for advice how to avoid jamming of the z stage. Are there e.g. any known issues with the linear bearings?
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I guess everybody was waiting for Daid to include the dual extruder stuff... :wink: I plan to try it next week...
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Would it be better and cleaner if the printhead only did one layer at the time.
Now it prints two layers per extruder.
At 0.12 perlayer thats. 0.24mm difference. So the shoulder of the nozzle (the area without the hole) moves the other extruded material away?
Before printing you've levelled the nozzle's with a piece of paper say, 0.1mm?
The way I see now is: as long as you print 0.05 layers you'r fine. thicker layers would give a mess?
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These are some very good questions / remarks, I think.
I cannot completely follow you with the two layers. As far as I see it, Cura (I refer to version 13.10 here as I did no dual extrusion so far with 13.11 or 13.11.2) starts with an extruder at one layer (let's call it no. 1) and goes with this extruder onto the next layer (no. 2). It then switches to the other extruder on layer 2 and continues until layer 3 where it switches back to the first extruder and finishes the layer 3 and goes onto layer 4 and so on... Thus, it should only see 0.12mm difference, never 0.24mm... right?
Assuming the two hotends to be positioned on the same height (which is indeed VERY tricky with the current setup, but not completely impossible), the unused hotend should have the same height as the used one and might slightly touch the printed material of the active hotend (by some microns), but it shouldn't move the material away, should it?
You're absolutely right with the leveling. It is ABSOLUTELY CRUCIAL for dual extrusion up to a level of not only 0.1mm but far more accurate. I bought myself some very thin feelers (down to 0.03mm). They give you much more information than the sheet of paper (which is absolutely ok for single extrusion, I think).
I still have the acrylic standard bed... which is a BANANA...! It's nearly impossible to get a reasonable dual extrusion leveling with this bed. People with a glass bed are far better off; they really have a chance. However, the bed is not the only influence onto the leveling quality.
What about the 6mm rails the print head runs along? Are they straight? Up to what deviation?
What about the 8mm rods the rails of the print head are mounted to?
A linear deviation is no problem as it cancels out at the end, but quadratic, cubic and so on influences do not... :sad:
This is just theoretical. As mentioned at the beginning, I plan some test next week or the week after.
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Hi there
As I am hunting an underextrusion issue for several days now I'm having a closer look at the slip resistance of the filament inside the Bowden tube.
This is a known problem when printing soft PLA, I guess, as it was discussed already in the forum (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2110-trouble-making-soft-pla-prints/?hl=%2Bresistance+%2Bbowden+%2Btube&do=findComment&comment=14759).
However, as I have some standard PLA the thickness of which is close to 3mm (and which is significantly harder to push into the Bowden tube compared to other filament), I have some serious thoughts about how the slip resistance could influence the print quality.
So, this is my question: Is anyone of you using any kind of lubricant for the Bowden tube? What are the consequences for the print (heat or particles)?
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I use a Marlin version downloaded from http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/
I made the download on the 14th of October 2013 so it must be the Marlin version from the 7th of August 2013 as it is still this version there.
The plugin does nothing else than just to add 'M201 X100 Y100', as if you would insert it manually... as Cura plugins do not change the world but make it more comfortable... :cool: So the difference has to be somewhere inside Marlin... which is absolutely not my area of expertise...
If you have an Ulticontroller you could try to alter the Amax X and Y there...to see if your Ultimaker just ignores you or not.
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Anyone got the BedTempAtZ Plugin running on Cura 13.10 or 13.11?
Did you try the TweakAtZ V2.0+ ? The bed temperature is also included there since version 2.0... however I never got the chance to test it as I do not (yet) have a heated bed (on my Ultimaker... ;-))
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If I would have looked at this glass without knowing that something was printed on it I would have thought of hydrofluoric acid... But I guess, there is no fluorine in the _XT copolyester. Did you clean the glass before the print with any chemicals?
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Now, you confused me... :wacko:
Who is the big planner: Cura or Marlin?
I had some further looks into the GCODE generated by Cura. The first bridge line is the second segment of the bridge layer; there is just a very short segment before on the bridge head.
This is the video I made during one of the various test print runs (don't worry about the fan noise; there are other devices than the Ultimaker running in the same room):
You may see or rather hear that the acceleration is indeed not excactly constant for all the bridge lines. However, the differences are quite small as the acceleration change from 9000 to 100 and back is a huge leap.
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What do you mean by precisely? Precisely in time or precisely in value?
I just had another look at a video I made during the print and I do not see a huge difference in the different movements of the bridge lines which means the acceleration changes more or less instantanously. The same thing when changing back to 'normal' acceleration: the printer runs racily again at once...
Marlin plans out many segments in advance.
I'll never play chess against my Ultimaker... :wink:
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I used 100. But it was just a very rough setting as 1000 turned out to be not effective... I did'nt try any other numbers yet.
For the previous and the following layers I used the default value...
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OK, you know how it is... if something doesn't work as you think it should, you have to stick with it until you got the case solved...
For me, this was the case today with bridging. After I found out that the nozzle was still ok (I will anyway organize some spares, you never know what's happening next...)
and the curling of the extruded filament was due to insufficient adhesion of the bridge layer on the previous one, I found a way to produce nice bridging - even with the standard Ultimaker fan!
The model is the well known one from Thingiverse (no. 12925) with 5mm instead of 10mm height (as I wanted to see my Ultimaker doing brigdes not struts... :wink:).
Your post gives me all kinds of ideas. It's common to have under-extrusion during acceleration (start of a string) and over extrusion at the end. This is caused by the delay between when you ask for more filament and when it comes out (delay mostly caused by bowden tube and other stretchy/springy physical elements).
This "error" is reduced if you print at slower speeds but should also be reduced if you greatly lower acceleration parameters. So I'm thinking that simply lowering the speed when you get near a bridge would help. Also lowering the XY acceleration for the section of print that involves a bridge might help. You want to lower it a LOT. I would lower it to about 1/10 of the current value for a test.
gr5, you mentioned two ideas in your post. You were perfectly right with both of them (thxs). I reduced the x/y-acceleration by a factor of nearly two magnitudes for the bridge layer. And I gave the extruder an extra kick at the beginning of the bridge layer by adding a small amount of extruded material. I did it with Cura 13.11 by using an experimental TweakAtZ plugin as very special conditions are needed for the bridge layer.
However, the sticking together of the various strings is indeed a problem and for my cooling fan setup unavoidable as the standard fan has to blow in lateral direction in order to cool the strings in both directions. It would require a different cooling setup (two fans and/or special fan duct). Thus, I lowered the print temperature to the pain level, i.e. 185°C, but only for the bridge layer as I got underextrusion for the rest when printing everything with that temperature.
@rich: what cooling fan setup did you use for your tests?
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edit: they cost < 5 euros including shipping so don't get too upset if you did.
You're certainly not talking about the Ultimaker store, are you? If you know such a source, I would really be interested...
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@rich and gr5:
When you did your bridging tests, did you ever have the problem that the first few lines of the bridge layer did not stick to the bridge head but curled along the nozzle?
I'm just on the way to get really nice results with bridging and this is (hopefully) the last obstacle... it occurs after I cleaned the nozzle from old PLA...
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Hast Du noch eine Empfehlung für die zugehörigen Zahnriemen?
Bin gespannt auf die Vorher-Nachher-Fotos/Analyse Deiner Prints... :wink:
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(The left one got more cooling, since I got the stock cooler)
Maybe you try rotating the whole thing by 90° around the z-axis? If your standard fan runs at 100% it should blow enough to catch the object on which the Ultimaker is not currently printing....
Auch... No dual extruders anymore?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
As promised here some feedback on the Dual Extruder Aids in Cura 13.11.2.
My goal was to achieve a dual extrusion print without any traces of the 'wrong' color if the idle extruder has to cross both materials while the active extruder printing. I built myself a test design (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/target-dual-extrusion-test) which I scaled down to half in x and y and for testing to 0.5mm thickness.
The prints were made with PLA at 25 mm/s.
The present result is this:
I also made a 4mm thick version of it:
The results are not perfect but somehow ok. I've intentionally chosen two colors with large contrast in order to see spills.
And this is what I learned and a few questions that rose up:
- First things first: Both, Wipe tower and Ooze shield, did their job quite well (it's great to have both of these options, thx Daid, please keep them!)
- As printing on Kapton tape, adhesion was an issue at the chosen temperature of 190°C. The ooze shield being a single line had not the slightest chance of sticking to the Kapton tape. Therefore I had to use a brim. Unfortunately the Brim does not include the Wipe tower which led to its delamination in the thick version as visible on the lower picture.
On my wishlist for the next Cura version: please let the brim include the Wipe tower in the brim (nice to have: a connections between the two brims if not large enough to connect anyway... but no need-to-have)
- I printed with combing disabled as with it enabled the print head just prints over the 'wrong' color leaving a very strong line. The blue lines visible in both pictures on the white area originate from G0-movements while the filament was retracted. It's simple oozing. This effect is especially strong on layers where the blue is the second color to printed (as the gap to the already printed white surface is (theoretically) zero there). However, I'm pretty sure I can tweak the GCODE to get rid of this.
- I had the impression, that on each layer two lines were printed for the ooze shield on top of each other; one for each material. This led to an increased pressure inside the hotend of the second material and some subsequent splotching. Something seems not ideal there. It's the same thing with the ooze shield line of the second material on the brim (layer zero).
- I already reported the filament diamenter bug in Cura in a post above. A bugfix for this is also on my wishlist for the next Cura version.
My conclusion:
The Dual Extruder on the Original Ultimaker has already come very close to the point where it is not anymore 'experimental' with some tweaking...