Dim3nsioneer
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Posts posted by Dim3nsioneer
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@gr5: May I ask at what speed you printed the figurines?
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You mean you put in the flex coupler and the leadscrew stops wobbling?
I have the problem that, when I print really high prints (which I don't to because of the problem), the slider block actually collides with the leadscrew because the screw leans forward that much. I noticed that while assembling the UM, when I moved the Z-stage by hand...
The flex coupling certainly doesn't stop the z axis from moving in x-direction for different z. But it reduces the tension which is induced by this x/y-movement onto the bearings, the whole z stage and the z rails. The results should be less wobbling in your print.
The collision issue is caused by the positioning of the brass nut. I have the same issue but it just works. Therefore I think it's not a construction fault but something that requires some mechanical tuning...
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I agree with amano... I think to make the z axis more flexibel is the better strategy... at least for the bearings inside the z motor...
I just replaced the rigid coupling of my Ultimaker with a flexible one and I don't regret it...
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Daid, what shall I say... I see, you know your code... :grin:
I had the minimal-extrusion-between-retractions set to 0.5mm. Doing a cylinder with 2mm diameter was interestingly not enough for retraction (is there an additional factor?).
When I set the m-e-b-r to 0 I got retraction on each layer... :cool:
However, the result still looks awful... there are certainly anti-oozing-measures needed here as well... thanks anyway!
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It should do retraction before lifting the head...
I'm currently working on dual-extrusion stuff. One of the things is a wipe tower, which is a bit of the same as the trash bin. One of the issues I have with it right now is that it can topple over when your prints get high.
At some layers it actually retracts, but just maybe 5 times out of 50...
I'm looking forward to your 'dual-extrusion stuff'... :wink:
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This post is mainly directed to Daid but may be also of some general interest.
I just tested the cool head lift of feature in Cura for the first time when printing some very small structure with very short layer time.
First of all, I was positively surprised to see not only the z stage to move but also the print head moving away from the object and back after the delay.
However, as the G4 command is used, the temperature of the hotend is kept stable while the filament still has some pressure inside the hotend. The result is terrible oozing.
My question: Is there any reason not to do some retraction before the delay? I think it would significantly improve this otherwise clever feature!
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Does anyone know when and where the new MAKE 3D printing guide will be available in Europe?
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I wonder if someone else has made similar experiences: If I insert '0.3' in the expert settings for the new Cura feature 'Fan Full On At Height' then the fan runs with only the half PWM at this height. The full PWM is set one layer layer.
I use 0.2mm for the first layer and then a layer height of 0.1mm. I actually want the fan to run fully at the second layer but not at all at the first layer. How can I achieve this?
Daid, maybe you can write a few words about how this new fan feature works? Thank you!
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Oh oohw,
Like to use that updated tweak AtZ plug in.
But how to download it, from github? :oops:
Copied it pasted it renamed saved as a textfile, but won't show up in the cura plugin tab.
Can't download it as a file?
It's a bit tricky indeed... click on the link to get the source code page from github. There right-click on 'raw' and save the file... To be honest, as I'm new to github, I don't know yet if there is a more direct way...
EDIT: just found out and updated the link information above...
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...
Anyway, before you do any of that, can you provide a link to your updated tweak-at-z plugin please?
Sure: https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/blob/master/TweakAtZ.3.0.py
Please let me know if more documentation is needed...
EDIT: This is a direct link for saving the file: https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/raw/master/TweakAtZ.3.0.py
EDIT by gr5 - THIS ONE IS BETTER:
https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/raw/master/TweakAtZ.3.0.1.py
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You have to enter the Z height EXACTLY. ....
Actually, it should also work if it just passes the entered Z height, e.g. if TweakAtZ is set to 4.99, it should insert it at 5.0 (at any reasonable layer height).
But there is another catch: TweakAtZ needs AT LEAST ONE LAYER below the Z height where it should do something. So if you e.g. set the height of the basic layer to 0.2mm, it will not work with 0, 0.1 and (!) 0.2. The first working height will be 0.3mm (assuming a layer height of 0.1mm).
BTW: I did some further developments on this plug-in such as adding the flow for change, restoring the old settings when passing the magic-Z in reverse direction (very useful when printing multiple objects one after the other) or adding a switch to have it deactivated during Start-GCODE. Is there any version control for the plugins? (Daid, I hope I'm not poaching on your hunting grounds...)
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TweakAtZ Version 2.0 should work with Cura 13.11. However, this version may have its problems if you have some z-changes in your Start-GCODE. If you want to tweak a parameter at low z, it might produce a 'jumpstart' due to the z-lift at the beginning...
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Did you really then set all the line widths to 0.4mm? I tried that some time ago and got very bad results for the infills (single lines with gaps). I then reset these to 0 and got results quite similar to those with Cura.
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brim porn! OH BABY!
feel free to watch it all night long... :wacko:
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I did a quite large print yesterday for which I used a 10-lines-brim.
This is just the brim and the outer shell:
Some layers later:
I think the brim looks quite ok but maybe some of you will call me a fool... :shock:
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Holy sh**!!! Please tell me you mean the ninja turtle and not the truck. Because this thing looks like manufactured by a big toy company.
Great job with painting and assembling. How long did it take?
I fully agree with Nicolinux. This piece is amazing! And thanks for the information about the used material...
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@gr5: yep, I do... btw: I really like your new profile foto... :cool:
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I have the impression it got better already from 13.06.4 to 13.10. I have a test print that takes 9:29. Cura 13.10 says something like 8 minutes, Cura 13.06.4 had very optimistic 3 minutes... however this is on a Windows 8 machine...
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Although still using the standard unheated bed I use Kapton tape with a width of 200mm. These are the pros/cons:
+ VERY smooth surface of your prints
+/- reasonable adhesion
+ no joint of the tape stripes visible on the print
+ PLA warping doesn't loose the tape from the bed
+ the same tape can be used much longer than the Painter's tape
+ no degrading of the adhesion after some prints
- changing the tape requires some time
It is often mentioned that Kapton tape is more expensive than the blue Painter's tape. I'm not sure this is really true. I think the widest blue Painter's tape you can get is 38.5mm. Therefore you need quite some tape for covering the whole bed. And you have to change it much more often than Kapton tape. But I haven't done a proper calculation yet.
However, I didn't throw my blue Painter's tape away. For some prints it is nice to have a rough surface on the bottom. Especially the blue Painter's tape from Ultimaker is quite rough...
@gr5: I do the fine tuning of the z-positon in the start.gcode accordingly to "never change a proper leveled system"... :-)
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Hi Daid
Congratulations to all of you at Ultimaker. Bringing a new product to life isn't easy and it doesn't get easier if it's the second one. Especially not if it's not for the same group of clients.
A lot of people already mentioned what you should do in future, but you also asked what you should not do. As I see it, you have limited man-power for R&D. Use them wise. Don't start something too big like creating your own CAD software or similar. This is not your core business I guess.
From this point I think R&D should take two directions in hardware for the two products. Try whatever you think is cool for the original Ultimaker; continue the revolution. Not for the Ultimaker2; there, start now with evolution. One example: Focussing on arbitrary, technically not-experienced clients, safety of the product is a must. I don't know, if the Ultimaker2 already complies with the standard IEC 60335. If it doesn't, this must be your next step (I know safety standards are a pain, but you have to go through this...).
There are also some health concerns regarding 3D printers at home coming up recently. Please take them seriously and give a strong answer to them with the Ultimaker2.
You've done a great job with Cura so far. Compared to other slicing software it is very handsome. Still there are some things left to do which will certainly please both the Original Ultimaker and the Ultimaker2 users:
- Slic3r offers some cool settings like printing the outermost layer slower than the rest wich results in a great optical quality of the print. Certainly something to copy in Cura...
- Cura plugins work only as post-processors today, right? On the plugin website it is mentioned to have UI-plugins, i.e. plugins which run while processing. Changing the layer height during print is one of the most frequently mentioned desire. What about implementing it in a way that Cura selects the layer height itself?
- There are a lot of things which can be implemented for the Dual extruder setup, e.g. switching off heating of the unused hotend, the cleaning tower issue,...
- I personally would really like to have a correct print time estimation. So far I managed to write a plugin which does it quite well but having it directly in Cura would really be nice... :-)
And thank you for asking! ;-)
Stefan
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RicardoGA updated the TweakAtZ plugin so it should work with the current Cura version, see: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2454-cura-13064-plugins/
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Recently I had serveral breaks in PLA filament (not from Ultimaker) which was still mounted to the Ultimaker but not used (therefore stayed at the same position).
It's clear that (standard) PLA is a quite brittle material. But these breaks did not occur when the PLA was 'fresh' out of the plastic. Of course I had to twist the filament by 90° between reel and bowden tube.
The room I run my Ultimaker has a temperature between 19 and 25°C and a relative humidity of 50-60%.
I would like to ask the PLA experts among you what might be the cause for these breaks. Humidity? Too much stress in the filament? Poor quality of the filament?
thxs
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I had my clog in the brand new hotend between the Teflon part and the brass tube. As far as I can see, the hotends are not well clamped by the wood parts in the Dual setup (compared to the Single setup where the bottom plate is fixed to the rest of the wooden part of the print head). There should be a better way to control the spacing between the middle and the botton plate of the print head as the bottom plate clamps the Teflon part... I'm currently thinking of adding four springs between middle and bottom plate to push the bottom plate down...
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... for me the 16 mm standard cura gave the same clogging..
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Thank you for confirming! I thought the 16mm might be a bit too much...
I'll try the tower/wall thing. However, if one uses a tower for each color, switching off the heater for the second extruder isn't an option anymore...
B.t.w.: Does anyone know if there will be a new stable Cura version comming soon? Maybe on the 21st? Maybe with the extended support material structure some people already tested?
Wow
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Didn't know that. Very nice feature! :cool:
Next step: merge the lithopane with another object/geometry...?