cor3ys

Yes your fine to use colorfabb material in a um2 i am currently printing right now using there pla and i can also recommend using there XT filament too

What ever next :eek: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-25055694

Yes moving the clip worked for me too.. I also noticed that the print head now starts in the front left corner and not in its home position...

Hi IRoberti That's good to know thought i had missed something or done something wrong.. I will see if i can squash the front left clip as you suggest, the right side is fine... might see how much movement there is first doing it without the clip in place.... Shame simple things like this are not tested before release or slip through the net....

Hi Guys Just downloaded cura 13.11.02 and updated my firmware with it on my ultimaker 2 but when i do bed leveling procedure the print head sits over the front left glass plate clip so i can not raise the bed to level it.. Have i done something wrong ?

unfortunately not Gr5 well not in my case had the fan off tightened the screws but still a horrible noise, there must be an underlying issue for ultimaker to be re-designing how the fans are attached as per daid post..... not everyone is suffering the increased noise level but some of us are..... That's why i posted link to the other thread, seems like most forums The search function gets forgotten :wink:

Hi Peter Look at HP-65 photo in this thread i did something similar but i only warped a bit of very thin wire around my left fan as only my left fan makes a noise like you... only needs a bit of tension on the side's then the noise reduces considerable.. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3442-could-you-speak-up-a-little/ Daid said there working on a solution that will require riveting the fan to the shroud..

Hi Peter Not sure if this thread helps look at daid post second one down.... http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3458-how-to-switch-nozzles-for-the-um2/

Hi Guys The marks on the glass are not raised it dips in, Yes i did try cleaning the glass as i thought the same as you it is not possible, but when i could not remove the marks i then took a closer look and realized the glass was actually marked/dipped in them areas... Glass has been cleaned once before, Because when i first got it i used the glue stick but only used hot water to remove it. Since then i printed straight onto the glass and have done loads of prints with no issues until this weekend with the owl..

Hi Guys I have a really strange one, is it possible for the glass bed to melt to a print ? I did a 35 hour print of the owl below as i was inspired by Ian's owl using colorfabb _XT-300. I had a bed temp of 60 degrees and was using a temp of 230 degrees for the XT Filament. I printed straight onto the glass. When i removed the owl it looked like plastic was left behind on the glass plate but when i looked closer the glass was sunken not raised. when i looked at the bottom of the owl the marks on the glass were on the base of the owl but raised so it looks like the glass has transfred to the owl base. How can this happen ? Photo of finished print Photo of glass bed Photo of base of owl not very clear but you can just make out the material from the glass plate as the light shines off it.

Hi HP-65 I have the same issue but only on my left fan, if i put my finger gently on the side when its at 100% the noise stops, i have done something very similar to you but only around the left fan.... if i turn the fan down to about 80% -85% the noise also stops, anything above that the noise kicks in.. everything is tight and secure... its as if the fan when at 100% the frequency produced causes a vibration with the tin surrounding it, strange how the right fan is ok though on mine...

Hi illuminarti My settings were as follows am i asking to much from the machine ? Base settings 0.3 layer 20mm/s speed Build settings 0.06 layer 0.8 wall 50mm/s speed

Hi Illuminarti Yes bed was level so i assume like you there must be a bug in this feature...

Hi I tried spiralize with a wall thickness of 0.8, but when it done the base it left what looks like a nozzle width gap between each row so the base ended up like a sieve, to get a solid base i had to set a wall thickness of 0.4. So i don't understand how to get a thicker wall thickness ? do we have to manually increase the material flow on the um2 control panel to achieve this ?

I am printing at 50mm/s fastest i have printed was 80mm/s... Hi Sandrer i have been round and tightened all the pulleys as much as i can, i have done 3 prints so far about 11 hours and nothing has shifted yet so i am hoping all will be fine now.

illuminarti I full understand you guys are trying to help and its much appreciated.. your right some of the screws are hard to get at and tighten but i have been round all the ones i can reach and put as much tension on as possible, i have done 2 prints since and nothing has moved... Hopefully all will be fine now (fingers crossed) if not i will open up a ticket to see if ultimaker can come up with a solution...

So ? Not sure where your coming from gr5, you can see in my pics i have spacers, you can also see i have now had to tighten pulleys twice.. Are you suggestion just suck it up and tighten the pulleys every few prints, and deal with it if they move during a 20 hour print ? not to sure where your coming from with your suggestions to help prevent my issue as i have done what you suggest already....

Hi gr5 Like illuminarti said if the pulleys are lose and moving along the rod, there is nothing holding the rod in place, if the pulley continues to move along the rod, which it will do i assuem if it already has moved then the print head will fall onto the print/hotbed.. wonder what that would look like when i get up in the morning....

That is good to know. you are correct that the head drags the bar back and forth and when the spacer hits the case/bearing you get the banging/clonking noise.. Pulleys are moving on the rods as the spacers are there.

Hi Guys No i did not have the check box Spiiralize checked.. Wow you learn something new every day, i had no idea what that was for.. i can see another Vase coming this weekend will feed back the results with this box checked.....

Half way through a 4 hour print and i can notice a clonking again, guess what you got it now my y axis bars a poking out the back of the machine, so when the print head moves front to back you get the clonking noise as the rods are moving and banging up against the spacer.... Time to move all the pulleys again and tighten them up, another wasted print. EDIT---- Right i have now tightened every pulley i can get access too and started the print again..

Hi NachoKos I did the print below using PLA and did not use any glue, straight on to the hot bed and it stuck ok i still had to give a bit of force to get it off at the end...

Hi Guys Thanks for the tips, gr5 i will look at Kisslicer only used cura as i have only been at 3d printing for a week now, i had already taken a look at your test subjects about stringing and will give a lower temp ago... 3dcase yes i did have combing enabled just forgot to add it to my data sheet, i had also seen in another thread about cura 13.04 and something about jouis (did not spell that right but i think you know what i mean) but like you i don't think i can use it with a UM2...

Hi Guys I did a 20 hour print of a vase, The outside looks fine but the inside has stringing and lots of areas of rough flaky material... It is water tight which is a good thing... I am looking for advice on what i can do to make the inside of the vase look better ? And also whats the best way to clean up the inside of this print i currently have ? Finished Vase. Internal stringing and rough areas of excess plastic. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Ao5tqNiR-cNudG90Zjl6UWpuUlZCNTEwMmQ5bzF1dlE&output=html

Hi Ian That's when my pulley moved and the bar started to come out when i was doing a 20 hour print, when i got up in the morning the bar was poking out of the case :( I did a 4 hour print last night after tightening it up and it did not move, But still did not want to put another 20 hour print on just in case, so will do another 5 hour print when i get in just to make sure it's not going to come lose again....