jumpmobile

I got myself one of those "cleaning needles for camping stoves" (i don't know the english expression for this. They look like this https://media1.globetrotter.de/products/169x169/i69256.jpg and cost 3€. They did a great job until i discoverede that you could also use a scratch brush for this purpose. You can clip off one wire. It is strong and flexible material that is okay for cleaning the nozzle orifice and the rest of the brush you can use to clean the outside ;-)

Ich reaktiviere diesen alten Tread mal. Habe nämlich ein ähnliches Problem mit einem EPCOS 100K Thermistor (der bei meinem e3d-Hotend mit dabei war) Das mit der Firmware ist anscheinend ganz einfach: Ich habe mir einfach mit Ginge's Marlin builder eine eigene Firmware gebaut und darin die Option "Extruder temperature sensor" auf 100k Thermistor EPCOS gestellt (u don't say!?) Jetzt muss ich, wohl noch den Widerstand 23R einlöten. Was muss da rein? 4.7 KOhm wie es im Reprap-Wiki steht? Und die 100K sind dann der Widerstand des Thermistors bei 25°C Raumteperatur. Gibt es ausser Pullup-Widerstand und Firmware noch etwas das ich verändern muss? P.S: Sandy hat schon in diesem Thread hier eine Antwort bekommen. Ich verwende diesen Thread nur, weil es dasselbe Thema ist und ich nicht alles doppelt haben will. Edit: Ich werde Nick Foley mal schreiben. Der hat im e3d-Hotend-Thread geschrieben, dass er auf Thermistor umgerüstet hat.

This is very difficult. I have tried to restore my thermocouple by opening up the metal envelope and trying to separate and insulate the wires with Kapton tape, but failed. The ceramic body is very vulnerable to mechanical stress. Also there is not much room for additional material inside the sensor. This simply didn't work. I am now switching to the EPCOS-thermistor i have laying around from my first E3D hotend.

Jep. The isolation of the wires in the sensor is open. They make sporadic contact to the metal hull that envelopes the ceramic body. I am trying to fix this with kapton tape, but I will need a new one.

Hey I just need your opinion on this: My tempgraph is no smooth line but has breaks in it. I have checked the connection of the Sensor wires to the small board ontop the printhead, but that seems okay. My Thermocouple is broken, right?

Okay, I will try with 0.65mm for a while but if the results are not overwhelmingly good i will switch back to 0.4mm. Thanks for the quick responses.

Jep . these are quite strong: Nema 17 with 52 Ncm. costs 20€.

I would send pics, but i don't have a camera (jep, my phone is rather dumb compared to the ones from that fruit-company). My problem is that onhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27233 nautilus gears the push fitting doesn't work. I measured the pin had a diameter of about 5mm and the holes were 3mm. That is way to much for me to file of. I would be busy for like half an hour to get everything working. This has different reasons than the nozzle diameter, for sure. E.g. I print with two shells and 100% infill overlap, maybe this causes overextrusion on the outline causing it to swell, but i don't want to change this setting. (You are using large overlaps, too, right?) I have tried this now and it seems to work. I had those gears printed out at .8 scale and it fit better even better than the bigger ones though the tolerances should be smaller (right?). Do you / Does anyone know someother tricks to improve dimensional conformance of prints? (except for tightening the belts again) P.S: Here is my profile. Just in case you want to have a look. [profile] layer_height = 0.2 wall_thickness = 1.3 retraction_enable = True solid_layer_thickness = 0.8 fill_density = 100 nozzle_size = 0.65 print_speed = 50 print_temperature = 210 print_temperature2 = 0 print_temperature3 = 0 print_temperature4 = 0 print_bed_temperature = 55 support = Everywhere platform_adhesion = Brim support_dual_extrusion = Both wipe_tower = False ooze_shield = False filament_diameter = 2.85 filament_diameter2 = 0 filament_diameter3 = 0 filament_diameter4 = 0 filament_flow = 65 retraction_speed = 40.0 retraction_amount = 4.5 retraction_dual_amount = 16.5 retraction_min_travel = 1 retraction_combing = True retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.1 bottom_thickness = 0.3 object_sink = 0 overlap_dual = 0.2 travel_speed = 150.0 bottom_layer_speed = 20 infill_speed = 0 cool_min_layer_time = 6 fan_enabled = True skirt_line_count = 1 skirt_gap = 3.0 skirt_minimal_length = 150.0 fan_full_height = 0.5 fan_speed = 25 fan_speed_max = 100 cool_min_feedrate = 0 cool_head_lift = False solid_top = True solid_bottom = True fill_overlap = 50 support_fill_rate = 15 support_xy_distance = 1.5 support_z_distance = 0.2 spiralize = False brim_line_count = 20 raft_margin = 5 raft_line_spacing = 1.0 raft_base_thickness = 0.3 raft_base_linewidth = 0.7 raft_interface_thickness = 0.2 raft_interface_linewidth = 0.2 fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = False fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False

So Amano Are we ready to go, then?

Hi I have measured the string that comes out of the nozzle. it had 0.65mm diameter. Would it help to set the Nozzle diameter in Cura to 0.65mm and lowering the flow to sth. like 65% so it calculates the distance of the lines differently? I have problems with parts not fitting to each other. Greetings Jumpmobile

Sometimes this german shop has some cheap steppers: www.pollin.de I intend to buy this : http://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/NTQ1OTg2OTk-/Motoren/Schrittmotoren/Schrittmotor_PSM57BYGHM201_0_9_.html%C2%A0%20)%20one%20for%20my%20extruder%20since%20it%20has%20more%20power,%20but%20it%20has%20not%20the%20typical%20NEMA%2017%20flanges.%20If%20you%20use%20this%20you%20propably%20need%20to%20adjust%20your%20design%20to%20it. one for my extruder since it has more power, but it has not the typical NEMA 17 flanges. If you use this you propably need to adjust your design to it.

Ich fände niederohmig leitendes Material so ziemlich das interessanteste, das es gibt. Das wäre eine völlig neue Dimension für den 3D-Druck. Da würd' ich auch einiges dafür hinlegen (natürlich keinen Euro pro gramm, aber schon einiges mehr als für normales ABS/PLA). Aber grundlegend wichtig sind mir zuerst Druckzuverlässigkeit (also möglichst kein Verzug) dann kommt mechanische Stabilität ("Selbsthaftung") und danach erst irgendwelche hübschen Farben und sowas. Der Durchmesser von 2.85 mm ist für mich persönlich nicht so wichtig, da ich den Schlauch durch einen PTFE-Schlauch mit 4mm ID ersetzt habe.

Awesome! This solution is just what i needed. I am currently tinkering on my own printhead design and had problems figuring out where to put those fans and ducts to provide sufficient airflow without making the head bigger. This could solve my problems.

What distance do the 6mm rods have to each other at their crossing-point? I am currently designing my own printhead and need this number to get the relative position of the bearing-holder right. I don't want to disassemble my whole printhead just to measure this. Does anyone have this number? Greetings Jump

Thanks for the quick answer. I am lookin forward to a new Cura Version...

I will go for the Filastruder-kit, too. I have just purchased it, along with a contaminant-filter. @Nick: This is a cool link. On their http://www.soliforum.com/forum/18/filastruder/ you will find further entries on where to http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2733/plastic-pellets-for-filament-reviews/.

Okay, i have everything up for the test. Materials and Setup: - I have the Hall-O attached to https://www.youmagine.com/designs/daids-fanduct-with-hall-o-magnet-mount-for-autoleveling#!design-flagwhich in turn is attached to my http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:94678. - The Hall-O is sitting on the bottom of the fanduct, the magnet is glued to its inside with hotglue. - I have replaced the aluminium sheet by a 2mm ferromagnetic metal-sheet i had cut out by hand. Note: This sheet is very uneven. In the process of cutting i used some old metal shears that were too weak for this sheet. I had to straighten things out with a rubber-hammer. - Use heating-PCB with the metal sheet. - measure the output Voltage with a cheap http://www.mastech.com.cn/html/en/products-va18b.htm - reset the z-endswitch. Process: - Ievel the bed so, that the nozzle touches the bed. - start autozero, and measure output. - drive down the bed with steps of 0.01mm and measure the output. I have made first measurements, which are not too promising. The change in output voltage is about 0.01V per 0.01mm on the first three z-steps starting from nozzle-height. This is close, but could work. What is more of a problem is repeatability. As Daid already pointed out for a wokring autoleveling-procedure you need to have reliable results that are repeatable. When i drove down to about 2cm (where the output-Voltage didn't change anymore) and drove up again to the same position as before the output was changed as much as 0.03V. This isn't very promising. I will make more measurements and check if inaccuracies in the sensor-mount are playing a role in this. But if not then the Hall-O propably isn't good enough for this purpose and i will have to look for another way of measuring the bed-distance. What a friend of mine mentioned a cool http://www.ti.com/tool/ldc1000evm which they claim should be accurate to the sub-micrometer area. What does the community think? Comments are desired.

I will try to make this my Bachelor-thesis (is that the right word for it?). But i am not sure if this will work because it is difficult to connect 3D-Printing to what i am studying. But if i get to do it i will -of course- post the results.

I want to print multiple long parts ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:190386 part: A1.stl ) that have to lie diagonally on the print bed. Currently I can only print one of these at a time when it is rotated. This is no problem for me right now, but later it could be really necessary to print multiple pieces diagonally. Request: Could you let Cura calculate the necessary print-area so that it takes up as little bed-area as possible? Thanks in advance. Especially to David, for the good work so far. Keep it up! So far for the essential information. Here is the story behind it and another question that doesn't relate to Cura. These Things are test specimens for a tensile stress test. I have aske one of the professors at the institute for material science at my University to make some tests for me, so we could quantify the bonding strength that the printed lines have to one another when printed of a certain material at a certain temperature and a certain speed on -certainly- my printer. He said yes it would be no problem for him to run a mini-series with like four differently printed objects with five repeats each (makes 20 parts to print). He also said that I could do a bigger series of prints (with something like 500 parts to print) with different temperature and infill-settings to determine what influence changes in these settings have. This would lead to a better understanding of how the printing parameters affect the rigidity/strength of a printed object and could allow for more accurately engineered parts that are more likely to withstand the forces applied to them. Maybe we could one day use FEM-analysis to estimate when and how our prints will fail. cool.... Other question: Has anyone heard of a "serious" study on that topic (influence of temperature/infill/speed/etc. -settings on printed objects strength)? I have searched for this but no one seems to have done it. I have also read a few editions of "journal of rapid prototyping", but couldn't find anything (very interesting stuff though).

Sorry. I wasn't following this thread. Here is a screenshot of Cura slicing the 0.4mm calibration box from this thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:52946 (i have stopped pursuing this routine since it doesn't apply when using Cura) This should be a box with four walls instead of three. I used 0.4mm Nozzle diameter and 0.4mm shell thickness. Here is my complete profile. Just in case you need some other value: [profile] layer_height = 0.2 wall_thickness = 0.4 retraction_enable = True solid_layer_thickness = 0.9 fill_density = 100 nozzle_size = 0.4 print_speed = 50 print_temperature = 210 print_temperature2 = 0 print_temperature3 = 0 print_temperature4 = 0 print_bed_temperature = 55 support = None platform_adhesion = None support_dual_extrusion = Both wipe_tower = False ooze_shield = False filament_diameter = 2.85 filament_diameter2 = 0 filament_diameter3 = 0 filament_diameter4 = 0 filament_flow = 100.0 retraction_speed = 40.0 retraction_amount = 4.5 retraction_dual_amount = 16.5 retraction_min_travel = 1 retraction_combing = True retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.1 bottom_thickness = 0.3 object_sink = 1 overlap_dual = 0.2 travel_speed = 150.0 bottom_layer_speed = 30 infill_speed = 80 cool_min_layer_time = 5 fan_enabled = True skirt_line_count = 1 skirt_gap = 3.0 skirt_minimal_length = 150.0 fan_full_height = 0.5 fan_speed = 25 fan_speed_max = 66 cool_min_feedrate = 0 cool_head_lift = False solid_top = True solid_bottom = True fill_overlap = 100 support_fill_rate = 15 support_xy_distance = 1.5 support_z_distance = 0.2 spiralize = False brim_line_count = 20 raft_margin = 5 raft_line_spacing = 1.0 raft_base_thickness = 0.3 raft_base_linewidth = 0.7 raft_interface_thickness = 0.2 raft_interface_linewidth = 0.2 fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = False fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False plugin_config = (lp1 . object_center_x = -1 object_center_y = -1 [alterations] start.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time} ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density} ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line ;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F{travel_speed} ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... end.gcode = ;End GCode M104 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning start2.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time} ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density} ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line ;M104 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line ;M109 T1 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line ;M109 T0 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm T1 ;Switch to the 2nd extruder G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount} T0 ;Switch to the first extruder G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F{travel_speed} ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... end2.gcode = ;End GCode M104 T0 S0 ;extruder heater off M104 T1 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning support_start.gcode = support_end.gcode = cool_start.gcode = cool_end.gcode = replace.csv = switchextruder.gcode = ;Switch between the current extruder and the next extruder, when printing with multiple extruders. G92 E0 G1 E-36 F5000 G92 E0 T{extruder} G1 X{new_x} Y{new_y} Z{new_z} F{travel_speed} G1 E36 F5000 G92 E0

Did it work?! Coool.... I had that design laying around for about nine months. Never printed it 'cause i didn't think it would work.... Greetings Jump

Published it. Now you should see it. Edit: Printed it. The sensor comes really close to the bed, which is nice. Will start to take in-situ measurements as soon as i found that **** little magnet that came with the board. And i found that autoleveling is already implemented into marlin. Nice!

And what if I only take 4 Belts and we use the small box? The other for where just so... i intend to build my own printer one day.

Hey I have read about LVDT and found this paper: http://www.ni.com/white-paper/3638/en/ You could replace the core in figure 3 with a magnet that gets attracted to the buildplate and is held back by a spring (could be acquired from a ballpen). But this will lead to building ones own sensor and that is a thing i want to avoid for now. If there is a preset solution i first want to use that, but i will keep LVDTs in mind if Hall-O turns out to have insufficient resolution. Edit: I have integrated daids fanmount, but my printer is jammed. So i will not print this out today. :- This is what i want to do: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/daids-fanduct-with-hall-o-magnet-mount-for-autoleveling

That sounds good... I will redesign Daids fanduct to make a mounting point for the board and magnet and make some tests. If the results are promising then I will need to write a piece of firmware for this.