jumpmobile

I recieved my Hall-O last week and began toying around with it today. The board works well an delivers a constant (linear) change in output voltage from 2.5V to 5.1V as the magnet approaches. I also printed a test assembly to control magnet - sensor distance. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:186063 It is also possible to measure the distance to an approaching ferromagnetic bed, but the change in output voltage was more like 0.3V for the 4-1mm bed distance. So to be able to measure 0.1mm you should be able to measure voltage changes of 0.01V (the signal was stable to 0.003V outside of the printer chamber).

I would take two sets. I think that implies: 8x Belts 16x pulleys right?

Also the wood could be changed. If someone has access to a cnc-mill then he/she could make the z-table out of more rigid material as the wood "can change by 0.5mm by just tipping it"....

I don't think that i want to prevent this. This filament just snapped because i changed the spool-size. The other spool i had (which i didn't change) has been in there for about two (?) weeks and still looks good. It is just a hint so you know not to change new bought wet filament onto bigger spools before putting in the dry-chamber. P.S: "Exsiccator" in german is "Exsikkator". But "desiccator" sounds better since i am using 'dessicant'

Hmmmm.... A model of internal pressure. That sounds difficult: You can't really measure it.... edit: Except if you take a strain gauge ( DMS ) and measure the force with which the bowden tubing is pulled away from the print head. This should be equal to the force that is applied to the filament aka. pressure drop across the hotend. Then you could model the hotend as a pipe of length a, diameter b that reduces to diameter c. Environment pressure, moisture in the filament, friction of flowing filament are not included in that model. Maybe this sensor will do: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8712

Erstmal danke an amano für die gründliche Untersuchung des Themas. Respekt! Ich denke wenn man es mit den GT2 hinbekommen würde in Zukunft auf Riemenspanner zu verzichten dann wäre das schon ein großer Gewinn.

How did you bend it? Is that something i can do at my workshop at home?

Looks good, post test results soon. On Thingiverse you should show photos where you can that it is made out of sheet aluminium so people won't respond about melting issues. Basically you are using the fan duct to act as a cover for the nozzles instead of trying to direct the airflow from the fans, right?

@gr5: How did you measure the volume of the extruded filament?

I am still laughing everytime i see this video. lol

Have found something on Limonene: http://www.amazon.com/Greensense-Citrus-d-limonene-Natural-Cleaner/dp/B00025H2GI/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1384700835&sr=8-11&keywords=D-limonene 20€ per quart. (I haven't heard of a quart but it seems to be more than a litre.) First thing i'd do is to try how far you can dilute limonene without loosing its capability to dissolve HIPS. Edit: I have also found a video on how to extract small amounts of d-Limonen out of orange rind. Ratio was: 2 grams of rind => 0.125ml D-Limonen (unknown purity) So for 1 Litre you'll need about 16 kg of orange rind. Still fun to know.

Okay, so I am relieved that i don't have to deal with more calibrations and errors on my UM. Just the good ol' belt-tension stuff... Thanks for the fast and accurate answer :-) Greetings

So a longer shaft on the nozzle and a thicker heatblock should help, right? I intend to turn and drill my own nozzles one day to see what a change in nozzle diameter does to my prints. So i could do this in one go. On the material build up on corners: that is a problem i haven't been aware of yet, but it is obvious. Do you have any idea how this could be fixed or have you tried to fix that? Just thinking: This could be fixed by changing the firmware. You should preprocess the next few steps, see if there is a corner coming and decrease the extrusion rate way before reaching the corner. As far as i know there is a feature called "look ahead" that does a similar thing with the velocity. This also leads to less buildup on corners. But when changing the flow there is much more down time than with changing velocity so you'll have to preprocess way more steps.

I am using an UM1 and tried this two weeks ago but haven't got this to work yet. Here is what I have found for my UM-1: You will need a Computer running a some host software like OctoPrint or Pronterface (Cura can also act as a host but doesn't support Webinterface as far as i know). A friend of mine is using a small webcam connected to a RasPi that runs Octoprint. Seems to work pretty well. I intend to use a RasPi too, but just want to install a software that allows Videostreaming and connect to the Pi via SSH and use Cura as host. But i haven't yet got this to work because i have bad wifi-connectivity in my lab

What i was thinking is: the part that slips as soon as the filament can't extrude anymore is not the motor itself but the drive bolt that starts grinding at that point. So there must be some "potential" left there. When you have a driving system that is capable of blocking a NEMA17 as soon as the filament blocks then you have reached the end of what is possible for your system. Then you could go to adjust the spring tension on the filament so the drive-bolts will start grinding again, when filament is blocked. Perhaps i will rewrite that tomorrow. It's late already.... But thanks for the heads up on QU-BD. I didn't know them by now. THX F

Hey Guys I have been searching for news about the Kraken hotend from E3D and occasionally stumbeled upon this thing. It has nothing to do with E3D (i think) it is just that the name is the same, but he (Ziggy from Brainydeep) got a thing to work that i was thinking about for the last few weeks/months. He designed an extruder with two drive bolts and by that way doubling the area of friction between bolt and filament which in turn doubles the maximum appliable force onto the filament. He did it by simply using the same mechanism twice (i didn't quite understand why he wanted to have the driving bolt mounted floating instead of the pressure wheel, but okay) and adding a second motor to it. Now this makes his design rather bulky, but it seems that he has made huge improvements to printing speed (350 mm/s ?!). I was trying this for me a few days ago, when i saw that MoonCactus has designed a cute extruder in openSCAD (the only CAD-program i can use up to now): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:73082 Now all i wanted to do... ("all", yeah right) ... was to add the same bolt-bearring-tensioner-setup that MoonCactus used, mirror it and put it under the tension-spring (in a way, that the drive bolt is on the side with the cantilever and the bearring is on the stepper-side). By this way you could connect the two drive bolts with one pair of gears with a 1:1 ratio. The sad thing is: MoonCactus seems to be a programmer and has a completely other approach to openSCAD than I have. I simply can't read his code. Also my computer freezes when I try to compile his design. This is gonna be painful, so before i start on this i want to know if anyone has tried a similar thing? And if yes: why didn't it work? Or did it?

Yesterday I experienced something really weird: I had this delivery of filament: Nylon,Laywood, Bendlay and 2kg of white PLA from mexhibit (german vendor): http://www.mexhibit3druck.de/#!product/prd1/996213934/fdm-filament-3d-druck%2C-natur-weiss%2C-3.0-mm%2C-2.3-kg This PLA was delivered on two very small spools a 1kg each, that wouldn't fit onto my UM. So i took the material of one spool and put it on an empty 2kg-reel i had laying around. Put this in my newly build exsiccator and left it in there for about a week now. And yesterday I came home to this: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/1862-pla-drying-crash/ read on here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/1861-spool-of-dried-and-cracked-pla/ Sorry for the double post. I just didn't want to mix up these two things. The principle of drying filament seems to be justified for already dry Nylon/ABS but in wet filament there seems to be some changes (hydrolysis?) in the chemical consitution of the filament.

Jep Same thing here. Printed a piece about 1cm thick. The Top/Bottom layers are all the same direction. As soon as the infill-layer starts the pattern starts shifting 90 degrees. Workaround: As i was printing in 100% inf. i just set top/bottom to 0.1.

Aber die Schaltungen die sie drucken scheinen zu funktionieren. Vielleicht wird man das in ein paar Jahren mit einem 3D-Drucker kombinieren und könnte dann Schaltungen und Kabeldurchführungen direkt in tragende Teile reindrucken und somit Platz sparen. Wahnsinn!

Hallo ich wieder Tut mir leid, dass ich mich jetzt erst wieder melde. zz. viel Stress... Wie war das mit der Vorspannung? Ich weiss nicht wie das beim UM2 gelöst wurde (aus den Bildern kann ich das nicht erkennen). Wenn die Vorspannung zu gering ist gibt es nicht genug Reibung zwischen Bolzen und Filament, weil sich die Zähne nicht tief genug ins Filament eingraben können. Das wirkt sich auf die Förderfähigkeit deines Druckers aus. Hast du versucht die Spannung zu erhöhen? Gruß Fabian

I haven' yet tried to enhance my z-accuracy so forgive me if i bring up a topic that was already there but could a ballscrew be of any use? As far as I know they are really expensive (around 80€ for a 8mm one in our size) but much more accurate than leadscrews (and they have 30% less friction, but i don't think that this is of any use in the slow-moving z-stage).

Well to give you an update on this: I have tried this for a few days now. For the parts used see my gallery: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/album/307-exsiccator/ The setup is really simple. Greets Jump

Cool! Is that the Kraken? I have heard of it but never seen one. Looks quite intimidating ;-) But isn't that head very heavy? How much does it weigh and how big is it? Soooo excited about this. On designing a mount for that monster: Could you post the measurements of the block including position and diameter of the bowden- and water pipe connectors? By that way everyone here could give it a try. Greetings

Hey Roman Schreib mal wie der Probedruck bei dir läuft. Das mit dem Filamentkringeln habe ich gestern auch beobachtet: Ich hatte eine Kalibrierroutine durchlaufen wobei ich die "Flow-rate" auf 40 runtergeregelt hab' und da sich das Plastik bei mir auch gekringelt und an der Düse festgeklebt. Was eigentlich auch logisch ist, denn wenn nicht genug Plastik aus der Düse kommt um den 0.1mm Spalt ordentlich aufzufüllen (oder der Druckkopf sich zu schnell bewegt) dann bleibt auch nix am Bett kleben. Das würde bedeuten dass du Flussprobleme hast. Das kann an der Drucktemperatur liegen (wie Nicolinux geschrieben hat) oder an der Flowrate (wie bei mir gestern), an der Bewegungsgeschwindigkeit des Druckkopfes (etwa 60mm/s sind für den Anfang recht gut), an Fremdkörpern in der Düse usw. Check bitte mal diese beiden Sachen: Welche Flowrate hast du bei dir eingestellt? Schau mal das Filament an, das durch den Schlauch läuft: ist das Muster auf dessen Oberfläche schön regelmäßig, oder sieht es ungleichmäßig aus als ob sich die Zähne des drive-bolts ins Filament gefressen hätten? Gruß Fabian

Hi Roman Ich hab' zwar nur einen UM1 aber vielleicht helfen dir meine Tipps ein bisschen: Das mit dem kringelnden Filament habe ich auch immer, besonders wenn vorne an der Düse schon etwas Plastik klebt. Das Kringeln selber ist für mich allerdings nie ein Problem, sofern das Plastik am Druck/Bett haftet. Zum zweiten Problem: Ich finde das beste was man machen kann um rauszufinden ob man korrekt kalibriert hat ist einen Probedruck zu machen, der nur eine Schicht hoch ist und langsam gefahren wird. Etwa sowas: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053 Dabei sollte sich zeigen, dass das extrudierte Filament leicht plattgedrückt erscheint. So stellst du sicher, dass bei den ersten Schichten das Plastik tief ins blaue Tape gedrückt wird. Der Vorteil vom Probedruck ist auch: Man bekommt durch das ständige Feedback mit der Zeit ein ziemlich gutes Gespür wie weit die Düse vom Druckbett entfernt sein muss. Ich verwende schon seit etwa einem Jahr kein Papier mehr, sondern nurnoch mein Augenmaß. Gruß Fabian