0235

never buy a cheap airbrush. i brought a cheap one. used it once, it was fine, used it a second time, it was awful.

so literally 5 mins ago was sitting in my room as my UM1 prited, then suddenly it started making a really odd noise, i turn round, and the extrusion motor is running backwards, an awful lot it must have retracted 200mm - 300mm, however all seems to be good now. it would have been on layer 11 of 549, so it was very early on. there hasn't appeared to be any problems, no under-extrusion and no blob where it restarted printing. strange, very very strange.

ah yes. UM1. got to love that home made kit highlight of last year. yes i was wondering if there was a way to re-bend stuff back into shape, i thought that a heat gun could be a solution, but had a huge change of just melting one side off, and leaving the other side even more warped love this forum. everyone always has an answer or a "i will test that for you" even when its midnight on a weekend so tried hot water, instead of warm, whoops! however, looks like the new tape works a treat, may not even be able to get it off the acrylic plate! almost no warping. i think laying the first layer much hotter also helped, got it nice and in on the tape, and i can adjust later with warm, not hot, water

here are my two pieces and them together its actually the tape peeling off of the acrylic. the tape is hard to remove from the printed piece. i tried brim once, but i was probably printing too fast, as it too lifted up from the deck and started warping and twisting, but that was on a different print.

going to have to re-light this thread. no matter what i do, i get warping on this certain piece. i have tried fresh tape, made sure its really well rolled down with a roller, and then rubbed down the tape with rubbing alcohol, made sure exposed edges are not near the edge of the tape, and still it lifts. now its nowhere near as bad as i had it before the isoproyl, and next time i will use some wide tape that i got. fingers crossed that will solve it print speed 45mm/s, temperature 215, shell 1.2, layer height 0.1 and bottom/top 0.8 its frustrating as its 2 halves of a piece that have to glue together :/

im still watching this like a hawk

my real name is Richard, 0235 is just my online name, used everywhere, email, MMO's, everything. i think it was my first ever log in at school, and stuck with it ever since. as for the plane, its a de Havilland Chipmunk, UK air cadet trainer aircraft. that photo was actually taken very early in the morning, as the sun was rising on an all nigh model making session i pulled to get it completed for a competition the next day. cant really see it from taht angle, but the guy walking towards the aircraft has his parachute caught i nhis chair ,and everyone is supposed to be getting all panicked etc. also notice the armour is Spartan 235, but carved a little "0" in front of it

thankfully the conversation did change sometimes, unfortunately it was when my cousin (10) blurted out he got GTA V for Christmas. oh dear. still ,that leads on to, anyone here sick and tired of the "oh hope you don't print a gun and shoot me, ha ha ha!" that seems to come every time you mention you own a 3D printer?

i Have to admit though, that file was just ripped from a game, and i used sketchup to clean it up (oh the irony!) but fun fact, every jaeger and, well everything, for the film "pacific rim" was drawn entirely in google sketchup for concept. sketchup is literally a 3D sketcher. its awful for anything accurate, unless you know how to use it (i have been using it for at least 6 years!)

not 100% done by me, but most of it was aaaaaaand.... yep. that's me both of those are why i got into 3D printing. I really hit my limit with prop making / model making. i really like bespoke stuff, but when it comes to scratch building i have a tiny desk to work on, and taht's about it

exactly the same here. spent Christmas at grandparents with the whole family, and it was just a solid conversaion about 3D printing. shame i didn't have any examples. then my cousin and her boyfriend turned up, and he was a design tech teacher at a school, and new all about 3D printing, and even looked at getting a 3D printer for there school! not met a single person that goes "urgh, that's stupid", however i think its starting to grate on everyone at the office

well makerbot sure know how to make a nice looking 3D printer, but that build size on the mini? really? that's stupidly small. there printers have always had inneficient build platform sizes, but then again everyone knows makerbot. i think there are smarter companies out there that will beat them to true desktop printing!

there are of course larger spool designs available on websites like youmagine and thingiverse, just you need to print them. i had to return a load of Fabadashery filament as it wasn't on a spool, and too big to fit in the small space my UM is in :(

ok, so not a render, but just imagine it all lovely n such

excellent. i will see what the games-workshop stuff is like, as i guess i would be able to apply that slightly thinner than normal automotive stuff, even even that's pretty expensive.

so bringing up a slightly older thread, don't want to post my own one about this topic, but is there any reason to prime the model beyond removing any visibility of the original colour through? can you just paint normal modelling acrylic paint straight on it, or do you need to prime it with something slightly rougher to get it to stick? also, i noticed Valcrow, you said about needing to seal the model, could you do this with just an overall spray of matte / gloss modelling paint?

what glue do you use to stick these together? just regular old superglue? ACH! there is supposed to be that lovely picture of the blue scary doggy werewolf thingy!

i hope there are some star citizen fans out there. here we have the front 3rd of a space ship. engines and space lasers to follow and unfortunate band formed near the bottom as i occidentally changed the speed to 8%, not 80% :(

happy new year aswell (if a bit late!)

ah you all have so much room. i have a space barely big enough for the printer itself!

i guess that the light weight print head design also helps a great amount.

im truly fascinated just how much is 3D printed, and it uses the bowden system. if i were to ever undertake building a printer from scratch, this would be very high up on my list. i actually like the way how compact it is.

so i was thinking, what makes the ultimaker capable of such a crazy high Z axis resolution, whereas all the other ones that are made have a much lower resolution? or is it top ultimaker secrets

nice to see a comparison and someone willing to risk many jams for the purpose of science!! also nice to see the formfutura is the best stuff

welcome to the nicest community ever