meduza

Without spring tension, i'll think they will have a hard time getting it to work consistently with different filaments, can propably work great with some but not with all...

With a machined 0.8mm nozzle the UM2 can get up to over 16mm^3/sec we found out back in July: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6548-how-to-modify-machine-a-um2-nozzle-to-08mm/ If you want it to go faster than that i belive that the heater and the relatively short melt chamber is limiting the speed, i guess that the UMO probably would be able to go even faster with a enlarged nozzle because of the longer melt chamber and more powerful heater cartridge.

By "shortening the threaded tube", are you talking about the "Hot end isolator" piece then? The reason i was thinking about shortening the E3D nozzles is that you should easily be able to shorten them 2-3mm and still have more than enough threads to screw them in, and in the process you would be able to make a 1mm slimmer heater block, moving the nozzle in a mm and still have enough material on the top, wich would make the melt chamber shorter and closer to the original.

I'll guess that one of the problems with making the heater block smaller is that the E3D nozzles have a quite long threaded part (7,5mm over the nozzle), do you think that we could get less oozing if we can shorten the long melt chamber either by using a lathe and turning the E3D nozzles down 2-3mm in length, OR making a custom isolator/heat break that would allow the nozzle to stick up longer in the block?

That is a beautiful design, if you are making some more or have some spare blocks we would be very happy to help testing and reviewing the design at Stockholm Makerspace, it looks fantastic to be able to switch nozzles without changing the whole block with the risk of breaking the wires to the sensor or heater The drawing would also be pretty intresting

I was thinking yesterday about this and radical solutions, the main problem is the heat transfer, right? If one were to replace the heatsink with custom made water cooling block would that not be enough?

Correct, the leadscrew is a integral part of the motor and cannot be separated.

Check with Robotdigg, they have threaded rod steppers with TR8x8mm screws (I belive that is the same kind used on the new Z-axis and the UM2) up to 500mm in stock, and says that they can do custom ones: http://www.robotdigg.com/category/8/Threaded-Rod-Stepper

The new z-stage and the heated bed is quite integrated, so I'll guess that the answer will be no, maybe if you just want a new leadscrew and nut, but then you can buy a similar setup from robotdigg http://www.robotdigg.com/product/31/NEMA17-Threaded-Rod,-350mm-length-Tr8*8-Acme-Leadscrew

This one works really well, much better than the one that is sent with the um2:

Firstly you have the much easier bed levling with the 3-point system, then the glass is really nice to print on compared to blue tape, the new Z-screw is not as prone to cause ripple, and a "feature" i like is that you can just take a finger, put it on the back of the platform near the bearings and push to move the platform down if you need to move the bed without power The only thing i dont like is that you cannot easily make small adjustments like you can with the old Z-stage to the print height by turning the coupler if you realise that your first layer is too tight or too loose

Actually it was quite cheaper than i was expecting, i would have guessed for at least 100€ higher price, but i can tell you that this bed upgrade is just purely awesome, i have used one of the beta units for months and it makes the Ultimaker Original a fantastic printer!

That sounds like the problem i described at the last page, which all went away with a new roll of XT.

If you get a shorter one, couldn't it be made to fit the hole for the 2nd hot end in the head, maybe threaded i the aluminum plate?

I have solved all my printing problems with Colorfabb XT, seems like i got a bad roll, since @gadgetfreak saw my post above and he lent me a demo roll of XT from http://3dverkstan.se and well, it was a totally different animal to print with. I will get a new roll as soon as their next order arrives. Thanks to 3Dverkstan and @gadgetfreak for great service

I printed a clip in Flex Polyester 45D to build a custom violin microphone, printed on a Ultimaker 2 with 90C bed temperature and kapton tape wiped with acetone as printing surface. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/diy-violin-microphone

Trying to solve the problem of not knowing who are using the 3D printer at our makerspace i made this: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-nametag

Well, to do this mod we did not need to buy any new axis, tough that does not say much since this printer was a direct-drive since before we bought it (but had problems with not so great motor mounts and motor shaft that had taken a beating, so yes the axis are longer than original, sticks out about a centimeter into a flex coupling (we also used 25mm flex couplings, that would not fit in Nicks original design, since we had those) The files are not yet available anywhere, still some tweaks left to do

I got the same error a few minutes ago when trying to upload a image.

We are working on our variant of Nick's motor corner, since we want to place the motors in the back left corner instead of the back right, also made it more solid and adjusted a few things along the way. The printer in question, a heavily modified Ultimaker was bought on this forum about a year ago, and is nowdays dubbed "The Ultimonster" at Stockholm Makerspace

I have had problem with layer adhesion and brittleness in Colorfabb XT, i can easily crush a thin (2mm thick) print like this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8119%C2%A0to%20shattered%20pieces%20in%20my%20hand,%20it%20acts%20really%20brittle%20and%20tends%20to%20break%20along%20the%20layers,%20do%20anyone%20else%20have%20that%20problem? to shattered pieces in my hand without using a lot of force. I have tried printing it really hot and slow, (260c, 10mm/s), colder and quite slow (245, 15mm/s), and even hotter and faster (255 and 40mm/s), also tried both thin (0,1mm) and thick (0,24mm) layers and i still get a similar result... Printing at a Ultimaker 1 with custom heated bed at kapton tape. Anyone had that problem? You can see how it looks during print here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/s7101392xhu7vfq/IMG_20140808_024718.jpg

I have just tried the site some more tonight by uploading 3 more designs, and even if it did not crash more than once (and i got 1 failed image upload) it is still a little slow, even if nowhere nere as slow as the other day.

Yeah, today does not seems to be the best day for YouMagine, crashes all the time and is crazy slow, it took me over 10 minutes and a handful of tries to even be able to upload the pictures to one of my designs...

Our happy Ultimaker corner at Stockholm Makerspace last night

Printed a few holders for the quick-change tool holders on my CNC mill that resides at Stockholm Makerspace. Material is Colorfabb Dutch Orange PLA, the color is a perfect match