meduza

2.2kg... such a cute little roll... 4kg... still quite a small one... 6.8kg or about 860m roll, cost is about 300$+shipping

I would guess that it is lathe shavings from a new exciting plastic you are trying out for insulators or something like that, maybe vespel?

I made a camera mount for my UM2 today https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/940-ultimaker-2-camera-mount https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-camera-mount-41747b79-3eb3-41d0-a6bc-887a30e42871

This is still a VERY requested feature from us at Stockholm Makerspace, i have spent way too much time cleaning nozzles to fix UM2's with underextrusion problems due to carbonized plastic in the nozzle, mostly because of above problem. A few minutes timeout would solve the problem perfectly, please think about introducing this feature, right now we are thinking of forking the firmware and doing the modifications ourselves just to spare us all the unnecessary hours of printer cleaning...

I have been using the new RSB nozzles for a few weeks now, and i have to say that they seem to perform even better than the classic 118 degree ones, even if it will need more testning. I can highly reccomend anyone with a Ultimaker 2 to buy a Olsson Block and the JET RSB nozzles.

I have also been thinking about this, and since i do not have the power budget for the UM2 and cant be bothered with doing all the calculations i have been looking at using a LM2596 step-down module of the kind that costs about 1€ at eBay and connect it directly to the 24V rail from the power supply.

I would mycket prefer a Ultimaker IRC channel with a chatbox on the forum as a Web IRC frontend.

Bob: I'll think that the easiest thing would be to use a electric screw driver and just use a 1/4" hex bit to 1/4" square socket adapter and fit a 7mm socket on that. Most electric screwdrivers already have a torque limiting function, so use that instead of the printed tool and set that to a low value (target torque is about 0.3mm but can vary in quite a large range without problems)

Marcus: the E3D Cyclops is a very limited solution that really only is interesting for multi-color prints and not multi-material prints wich really is the holy grail of dual extrusion. Also it wastes a lot of material when changing color due to that the whole nozzle needs to be purged. Therefore: dual extrusion = dual nozzle. BillDempsey: i Belive the wiping procedure used in the CubeX trio is patented by 3D Systems and can therefore not be implemented by UM. If you ask me i belive that a solution with active nozzle-lift is the only way forward.

I would not reccomend doing that since you will run into problems with getting the nozzles exactly level and so on. Better just replace your original heater block with this one and swap out the nozzle when you want to print XT-CF20, it takes about 20sec to swap out the nozzle for a stainless one.

So, i am missing the picture of the fan shroud above

I just watched the E3D talk from MWRRF (MidWest RepRap Festival), and they show some pictures of the wear that XT-CF20 puts on the nozzle This picture is supposedly of two E3D Nozzles where the one on the left has printed about 10kg of PLA, and the one on the right has printed 250 grams of XT-CF20, quite some wear visible, and deforming of the final channel in the nozzle.

I tried printing small with my E3D 0.25mm nozzle and Olsson Block on my UM2 Far from perfect, but still impressive for the size. (yes, the orange thing to the right is a foam earplug)

Yes, but it would also diminish our flock of members, so it is probably not a good idea, a software solution would be handier

Hi I would like to suggest a small addition to the "change material" procedure, to add 2min timeout to the screen where it sits and wait for you to put in the new material. Why? We have two UM2 at our Makerspace, and on multiple occations people have been unloading their filament but forgetting to cancel on the screen, wich results in that the printer is sitting with the hotend at 210 degrees until the next person is coming to print on the printer, wich is a recipe to get really nasty clogs... :/ A few minutes timeout would help here to avoid the UM2 hotend sitting there heated for sometimes hours when people forget!

I would like to see a dual wheel solution that still used the original knurled feeder part (but added one extra) and also allowed for a spring loaded solution to be able to handle some material diameter variation.

Anders, i'll dont think Nickel would be that much better for the kind of printing you do at work tough, you would probably be better off looking at synthetic diamond coating or similar at the rate you are destroying nozzles

I guess that it would be easier to just add watercooling to the board and steppers of the UMO and using the Z-unlimited as intended, printing with the print upside-down and really big prints does not feel like a good idea printing-wise... :/

@reibuehl: Of course, if you heat it up for a long time it will conduct heat deeper into the core of the wrench, but as you may know steel is quite a poor heat conductor, and the extra thermal interface and the extra length you add would keep you good as long as you do not get the socket very hot (so the base of the hex adapter gets over 60 degrees in case of PLA, or even higher for XT or ABS) you should have no problem. Sure, a plastic pin is easier to replace, but also easier to destroy than the hex+adapter version. I have had no problems so far with deformation of the original plastic design, but then i do the change quite fast.

The better option is to print Anders Hex wrench instead and buy a hex to 1/4" socket adapter if you have a problem with thermal deformation of the pin:

You should change the "add to cart" image to a transparent .png instead of the one you got now with wihite border, looks unprofessional, also, you need some kind of feedback for the shopping cart, right now it feels like nothing happens when you push the add to cart button, also some kind of way to reach the shopping cart that is not in the menu would be great, upper right corner is more or less standard. I would also suggest Tictail as a system if you have not looked at it yet, then you get a lot of functionality for free, if you havnt looked at that possibility yet. (also, you can use Stripe as payment provider, so people don't need to have/get paypal accounts)

Needed a marker holder for my whiteboard and did not find any good looking simple models on Youmagine, so i drew my own instead Printed on my UM2 in Colorfabb XT, 0.8mm nozzle, 0.4mm layers, took about 45mins to print. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/whiteboard-pen-holder

I'll would at least put wire mesh in front of the heater outlet and inlet then, so it is impossible to touch the heater wires with anything, regardless of how extreme a print fails inside the printer. Anyways, i am using a 300W version of this embedded in a CPU Cooler: http://www.ebay.com/itm/390997010772