meduza
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Posts posted by meduza
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It would be nice to have "visibility presets" that you could save and load from a drop down in the visibility menu, so you easily could save/restore your preferred view even after something like this (or in my case, I do Ultimaker training and have to change my visibility back to "default" before every training session, but I have another prefered set of settings when I slice stuff
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Or this thread that answers it for UM3:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/37365-175-filament-in-a-285-printcore
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Have you looked at the PolyMaker PolyCast?
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I'm not aware of any difference between Olsson blocks.
There is actually one, the early blocks had the heater cartridge on the side towards to the fan shroud so it had very little spacing between the block and shroud, the later ones that also were included in the 2+ are mirrored so the heater cartridge does sit further from the fan shroud.
and all the parts needed for the Medusa belt drive gearbox.
It is Meduza with Z
Please report how it works for you :-)-
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USB connection is no modifications at all, just plug the cable in at the back.
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You find it here:
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Well, if you ask me there is only one single reason to go all-metal, and that is to print with plastics in the 300C+ range, so more or less PEI and PEEK, and for those you more or less need a enclosed heated chamber to print.
For everything else... the current Core design is way better.
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@gr5, please, can we not just tell people that it cannot be done instead of giving them false hope by saying it works and risking fucking up their new UM3?
I honestly hate the video where the Adafruit guys say that you can use 1.75mm filament in the UM2, i have personally had to take apart and fix the ones at Stockholm Makerspace multiple times after newbies watched that video and bought 1.75mm filament which pushed melted plastic backwards around the thinner filament and solidly filled the hotend up to the top of the PTFE with molten plastic, causing a hell of a jam.
The fact is that 1.75mm filament will possibly extrude, but if it works it will just give you crap quality prints and it is highly probably that it will jam your hotend. Bad print quality and constant hotend jams are probably not something you want when you have bought a 3000€+ printer, so stay away from it. (if you want bad print quality and hotend jams, just go buy some 200€ kit printer with a badly machined clone hotend)
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No, you need to use 2.85mm filament, just like with all other 2.85mm 3D Printers.
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@VapeLounge: @tomnagel does answer that question here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/25906-ultimaker-3-first-impressions?page=last#reply-168179
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Well, i do not get why you ever would want USB printing, but that is another topic...
Both the Ultimaker original series and the Ultimaker 2 series does suppors USB printing just like any other printer running marlin just fine, it is just not officially endorsed since so many people have had trouble with USB printing (windows update ruining prints, unstable USB connections, etc.) and Ultimaker wants to provide a smooth user experience.
The Ultimaker 3 does not support USB printing, but on the other hand, it supports network printing!
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Contact your reseller, and they will fix it for you.
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I do not know, but i would guess that the average power is around 100W or so. The max power is 220W.
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Contact your local Ultimaker reseller, every reseller can order spare parts for you even if it is not listed in their website.
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I know I can still print with PETG by entering the correct settings in Cura. But I want to be able to either upload material settings or be able to set values manually at the printer. And I think this is not much to ask considering that the UM2 allowed this.
The UMO was all controlled by Cura, UM2 had material profiles in the printer, on the UM3 they reverted to letting the slicer control all material settings and not having material profiles in the printer.
When you choose a material in the printer it does only control the insert temperature of the material and report material type to Cura, all other settings is controlled by Cura.
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No, I let it cool down before shutting it off. Or try to print something else before it has cooled down all the way. Do you think that's the issue?
A quite common problem is when people are turning the machine off with the power button before it is cooled down, wich can cause a jam.
Have you checked that the back fan on your printhead is running?
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Well, i'll think the Formlabs test had a pretty good looking result.
I cannot see how the Form2 could have gotten a better result, it's laser dot does have a half-width of 140 microns, so it is not surprising at all that you cannot really make a positive feature smaller than about 150 microns.
If you did the same test in the X-Y plane for any FDM printer with a 0.4mm nozzle, it will even out at somewhere around that if the software even would try to print it, since you cannot put out lines much finer than the hole in the nozzle, but as i said earlier, most FDM slicers will simply ignore features smaller than the line width instead. But as @tomnagel said, you can of course position that 0.4mm line in much finer steps.
On the other hand, in another plane, it will give a different result.
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Do you turn the machine off with the power button before the print head has cooled down completely?
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There is quite a few variants, including ones that are not as easily lost that you can print from YouMagine: https://www.youmagine.com/search/designs?search=bowden+clip
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Well, it not that the cooling is "better", and i have not tried that kit myself, but from what i have seen, they solve the problem of being able to rapidly cool/heat the nozzles when switching, by adding a huge heat sink that pulls away a lot of heat from the heater block continuously (which makes it cool very fast when the power is turned off), and counteract that by adding extreme 75W heaters to be able to keep the temperature up when printing.
Since they opted for 75W heaters, i do believe that a 25W heater (1/3rd of the power) would not be enough to heat it to printing temperatures.
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Yes, then you will be able to power the bed, but you will probably not be able to print, since 25W is probably not enough power to heat the head to print temperatures with all the extra cooling the Ulticreatr 2x kit has...
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You do not require a Stainless nozzle to print abrasive filaments, but if you use the UM3, the print cores do have brass nozzles and they will wear out pretty fast. And since you can not change the nozzle of the print core yourself, it will be pretty expensive to print abrasive filaments with the UM3, changing a few print cores per kilo printed if your material is really abrasive.
The stainless nozzles are actually only about 3 times as wear resistant as brass, and will still wear out pretty fast, i wore out a stainless nozzle in almost 1kg of material when testing, where the brass one lasted about 300g. (test was done with Colorfabb XT-CF20)
If you want to really print abrasives you should look at hardened steel or ruby tipped nozzles. None of these options are available for the UM3 at the moment though, right now the UM2+ is the better option for abrasives.
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@GummyBearBandit: I just hate peeling blue tape from my prints when they stick too well... makes for ugly bottom surfaces :/
Right now i am only comparing the Olsson brass and stainless nozzles to the new Olsson Ruby nozzle, for the Olsson ruby website, i have gotten reports of that the hardened nozzles also will also wear in time, but it will require longer time and more material, and i have limited amounts of both time and XT-CF20 to do this
I can report that printing XT-CF20 with a brass nozzle wore it down 0.5mm in 300 grams, and for the stainless steel one it took 1000g to do the same amount of 0.5mm wear, so the stainless nozzles lasts about 3 times as long as the brass, but it also came with the need to print 5-10C hotter wich can affect your print quality.
300g Colorfabb XT-CF20
1000g Colorfabb XT-CF20
@Neotko still has the record for printing most carbon filled filament with a ruby nozzle, about 8kg of the stuff, and no wear was even visible in a microscope, that was pretty impressive :-)
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It should be available to buy in the UK from https://3dgbire.com/, i see that they have not updated their webshop yet, but they should have them in stock.
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Please report how it works for you :-)
Heat Capacity Limits Performance
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted · Edited by Guest
@LesHall: I would actually say that the main limiting thing is the thermal resistance of the plastic combined with the length of the melt zone. This is why the E3D Volcano offers a much longer (+10mm) melt zone to get better throughput. The heat simply cannot reach into the center of the filament fast enough.
The dual channel of the 3DSolex "matchless" nozzles are attempting to reduce this problem by splitting up the filament into two thinner channels, so the heat can get to the center of the melted plastic faster, but it also introduces some more back pressure (but it may very well allow you to print faster). The extra contact area of the block->nozzle is not a huge thing since the nozzles already has pretty decent thermal transfer, the dual channels is the main thing.
The best way to go for a printer that could print with high volumetric extrusion rates would be to have a thicker "Olsson Block" that extended the melt zone as much as needed to get full throughput with the regular nozzles. Of course you would also need a higher power heater cartridge (or dual cartridges) to be able to keep up the temperature.
A longer melt zone is not always a good thing tough, if you are using a smaller nozzle where the the throughput limit will be from back pressure rather than melt speed, the longer melt zone will lead to more oozing and less control over the extrusion, since you at any given time will have a larger amount of liquid filament.
I have been discussing another way of creating a longer melt zone with Anders, and i might whip up a prototype of it some day, just to see if it works :-)