aviphysics

An alternative to a second fan is something like the Tapir Fan Shroud. I have been very impressed with the results. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/tapir-shroud-for-ultimaker

When I ran this code on my UMO, (code was generated in Cura) the hot end temperature was set to 0 and the machine didn't do anything until I manually set the temperature. After manually setting the temperature, the machine heated up and ran like normal. I didn't see anything wrong with the code either, so I really don't have a clue what the problem is. It started when I last updated the firmware, so I am guessing it is a Marlin problem, though I updated Cura at the same time. I first had the problem right after updating to install a graphical controller. After noticing the problem, I flashed back to the latest stock firmware, but the problem persisted.

Marlin is setting the initial hot end temperature to 0. This is on a UMO with official HBK. Print was made from an SD card on an Ulticontroller. The firmware is the default from Cura 15.01-RC6. M190 S65.000000 M109 T0 S192.000000 T0 ;Sliced at: Mon 05-01-2015 17:01:19 ;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.15 Walls: 1 Fill: 10 ;Print time: #P_TIME# ;Filament used: #F_AMNT#m #F_WGHT#g ;Filament cost: #F_COST# ;M190 S65 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line ;M109 S192 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F9000 ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... Sorry for cross-posting, but didn't get any replies in the Marlin section.

Can you break up the STL and print the watch and charger separately?

That is an idea I like. I would suggest someone drumming up a community driven fork, but I don't get the impression that enough people want to devote enough hours to make it successful.

I would go with swapping pin assignment, though I might just take a look at swapping the physical connections. Maybe just scratching open the traces on the board and bodging it to the correct way. (on the graphical display board, of course. Not the UM board.)

It seems to be coming across as UM just doesn't care to have outsiders contributing code. Daid seems to have a very specific version of what he wants Cura to be, so maybe it just is what it is. Of course, I still appreciate his work and that UM has kept Cura open source.

I wonder how the power curve through a cycle of rotation compares to a stepper motor. The other potential issue is that a normal brushless motor won't have much holding torque. In this case, the holing torque might mostly affect its ability to quickly come to a stop at a specific point in its rotation. Also, brushless RC motors are designed to operate most efficiently at relative high RPM's. They might not work as well at lower speeds. I think you could do it, but I think it would be pretty non-trivial and you might not be able to use a normal off the shelf RC brushless motor.

I have been in a similar situation. Eventually it will work itself out. I might not do anything until UM decides what they think needs to be done. Anything drastic might complicate the trouble shooting process. If I were going to try something, it might be soaking the nut in some PB Blaster and wiping down the rod as well. Then clean em off and put more grease on. The nut should turn very easily. Mine turns so easily that the bed will sometimes slide down on its own when the motor powers off.

Why is that?

Would just throwing a towel of the printer work? Maybe make a simple structure with some coat hangers to keep the towel off the bowden.

Default setting is unchecked, but the option is only available if you told Cura you have the dual extrusion upgrade.

Marlin is setting the initial hot end temperature to 0. This is on a UMO with official HBK. Print was made from an SD card on an Ulticontroller. The firmware is the default from Cura 15.01-RC6. M190 S65.000000 M109 T0 S192.000000 T0 ;Sliced at: Mon 05-01-2015 17:01:19 ;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.15 Walls: 1 Fill: 10 ;Print time: #P_TIME# ;Filament used: #F_AMNT#m #F_WGHT#g ;Filament cost: #F_COST# ;M190 S65 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line ;M109 S192 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F9000 ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing...

I believe it is used when you are doing multiple filaments. The system will build a tower next to your model, and use it to wipe off excess filament and prime the next color. Not sure if it is for dual extruders or switching between filaments on a single extruder.

This is with the UMO HBK version, if it makes any difference. It seems like the refresh rate only really bogs down in the file browser. Maybe it is related to the number of files or long names I have on the SD card.

Marlin is setting the initial hot end temperature to 0 BTW, was getting time out errors when trying to start a new thread. That is why the first post is so short.

@Amedee, is there any way to reverse the action of the knob? On my unit, turning the knob clockwise decreases feed rate and advances down in menus, which seems the opposite of what the graphical display did. Also, when browsing file names the display update rate is wicked slow. Maybe that is just cause the Arduino doesn't have the spare power to update all those pixels in a timely manner or maybe my graphical display isn't good. So far feeling a little less than impressed overall. The graphical main view is nice, but in the menus, the slow update speed kills the advantage of having more lines. I can see why UM didn't hop on switching the Ulticontroller to a graphical version.

Currently trying out "Fast print" and thinking there ought to be a quick and dirty print option. Sometimes I just need to spit something out quick and it is ok if it doesn't look great. Maybe something with 0.3 mm layers.

In your Ultimaker controller, you should adjust Vmax-e and A-retract. I found a good safe first step was to reduce Vmax-e to 30, but I got slightly better results by turning Vmax-e up to 60 and turning A-retract down. On my UMO, the default setting were too aggressive. Especially when the print has lots of retracts. Oddly, for some reason reducing Ve-jerk seemed to result in slipping at lower acceleration and velocity settings than leaving it at the default.

You also can't directly use the quick print menu.

You could make a plugin to handle this in the following way. Step 1) Rasterize all G1 moves in the first layer. Step 2) Draw each G0 move in the first layer on top of the raster and compare for differences. Step 3) Convert any G0 move that alters the raster into a retract move. If your only concerned with the first layer, it shouldn't even be very computationally intensive. Probably not even too terrible to do it to all the layers.

Well that's kind of lame that you weren't given a reason. Had you already tested the code?

Just speaking to the general method of organisation. I have a vague idea of what the arrows and periods do, but just need to build a firmer foundation for working with objects. Nearly all my experience until recently was doing pretty strait forward computational code or pic PIC Assembly. Just didn't have any need for anything fancier. I have been wanting to branch out, but have been feeling too lazy.

Sometimes I heat up both sides with the hot end and melt some plastic from the hot end onto each part and slap the two together. Only works with small joints and It isn't always pretty, but the resulting joints seem as strong as the parts.

Thanks... I really should take a class in object oriented programming. I always get confused when those arrows and periods start getting thrown around.