aviphysics

Backed, but still need to let the wife know. Fortunately she doesn't keep an eye on the bank account and the delivery date is a ways out. Take your time with shipping.

How about a program that scans a folder and automatically sends new gcode files to octoprint? Would run completely separate from Cura.

Because drinking beer by the Liter would be excessive. I would however like bars to use those glasses with the lines etched on em. Drives me nuts how so many places just fill the glass all the way to the top and don't leave any room for the head.

*Fixed*Easiest way to figure with pins to use might be to solder wires to all three pins and probe the voltages with the machine on.(the wires are just so you can have the machine assembled while you probe with the power on). The wires that are at the same potential with the machine on (will read 0V relative to each other) are the one that you want to wire the second switch across. You can just cut out the third wire. Turn the machine off and probe the wires again to find out which is + and which is -.

We don't. Our units are different. For example, a U.S. pint is a pound but the British pint is 1 and 1/4 pounds. Seems like those crazy Brits just can't get enough of their beer.

I love it. I too have hopes that the maker movement will plant the seeds of the metric system in the states (even if it was primarily popularized by early 19th century French fascists)

I think I would take a look at those little office space heaters. would still need to supply a better temperature controller, but they are otherwise pretty much built for the job.

I was having problem with my filament guide forcing a sharp bend at the entrance to the feeder, causing the filament to break. I made this solution and thought some others might find it useful. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-original-feeder-strain-relief

I might do that. Don't have a need for this right now, but it would be nice to have a starting point for building one later.

Is there a plan to keep this going after the kickstarter or is it just a one time thing? Also wondering if you would feel good about having a pledge level for just a BOM and some instructions.

Use an RC low pass filter. The PWM is 30kHz, so just make sure 1/RC is less than about 10,000. Also, you probably want to use a small resistor (maybe 1 ohm or smaller, depending on fan current) and larger capacitor ( 100 uC ought to do the trick, but bigger wouldn't hurt.)

One difficulty I see is keeping all the filament tubes from getting tangled.

BTW, just for the sake of thoroughness, you should double check the connections between the main board and the HBK board. Maybe even post a picture.

I think the next step would be to rule out the cable by probing the connector on the board.

I wonder if the Swap at Z function would help you out. Would allow you to use spiralize for most of the model, until you get to the top. I am not sure how good the transition would be. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/swap-at-z

Will the shield have all the other electronics needed for a 3D printer, or will it be designed to sandwhich between the Arduino and UMO shield?

The main feature of the 2100 is that they don't need to be configured over SPI and might be cheaper. They are otherwise inferior.

What about some sort of flexture hinge test (number of flexes of a certain angle before failure) and a self abrasion test (i.e. measured wear on two parts of the same material rubbing against eachother.)? I suspect we would see a real difference between materials on those areas.

Book marking for later, so I can turn off the auto push. That feature really bugs me. Also, interested in how the object by object settings might be accessed.

Thanks

BTW, IIRC, at one point they said that they answer tickets based on the date of the most recent comment in the ticket, so adding a comment moves you to the back of the line.

Lol, when I once thought about calling them, I had prepared by looking up some dutch phrases to say hi and explain that I was a dumb american that didn't know any Dutch, but then I couldn't get Skype to work right and never got back around to it. Might have tried harder if I new they spoke English. :(

Is there a way to rotate perspective in Cura? Right now the FOV is always centered on the selected object. Is there a way to rotate the camera away from the center so you can get a better view of other things?

Wow. Hand fabbing the frame. Just remember that the UM prints will only be as square as the frame. You can compensate a tiny bit for the xy rods not being at a perfect 90 degrees, but the z axis has no such adjustment. Might be a good idea to match cut the top and bottom and use a solid jig to make sure the wholes for x and y axis are all at the same height. Looking at that tape, maybe that is already what you plan to do.

Also thinking that the direct drive extruder mechanics could be mounted high enough that their bulk might fit over the xy carriage. Then the hot end would fit down through the corner, so that the cartridge would have a profile of a block on top with a rectangular block coming down from one corner.