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Posts posted by ultiarjan
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Think of a scenario where you have a bunch of printers in a farm, loaded with multiple material types. Setting the material on the printer will make sure Cura Connect knows which machine can be used for which job. So it's actually not to anoy users of non-ultimaker material, but to make sure you can also use non ultimaker material in a print farm.
I always get annoyed when I get the warning if a different color of PLA is loaded. I think the best way around the issue is some improvements in the Cura Connect GUI so the override is easier and more intuitive.
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On 5/4/2018 at 11:16 PM, qablos said:
Not really a question or huge issue...but I just wondered why the prime tower doesn't have a bottom layer for better adhesion. The material used is negligible.
It's been a long time request of myself to have the option to set a brim on the prime tower, even when you don't use it on the printed item. I've heard it will be in an upcoming release.... not sure when exactly
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I have no idea why it's not taking your printer name anymore, but in the meantime you can ofc just click the name in the right bottom corner and rename the file... but easy to forget indeed...
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I had some issues with profiles myself, did a clean install and all was fine. You could try a clean install, here's where all the files are you need to delete (or backup....)
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I can do better here's all the UM3 parts....
http://www.mindkits.co.nz/bottom-plate.aspx
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8M9SXv5Qgy3VTBoMjNYZklqa28/view
Just order by sending a mail to your BE/NL reseller with the part data, they use the same book ...
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The original metal plate from the UM3 is around 50,-
Oh and I have not looked into it, but did you try to get a CNC quote on 3D hubs for the plate? wonder what that would cost....
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Not sure if you've seen it but a long time ago I actually put a UM3 head in this machine.
You are right, now that the UM3 files are out it's easy to copy the head, however depending on the machine you want to put it in you may want to make some modifications. If you look at the UM3 head it has a tiny Y bearing in it, the addapted head og the S5 has a slightly wider head, with room for a bigger bearing, this should be easy to do yourself based on the UM3 files, specially since you wil not need the original UM3 electronics. It wil mean a bit wider metal bottom plate (probably about 5 mm more distance between the cores)
I still want to make a better single core head, for my UM2, but it has never made it to the top of my to do list till now :)
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One thing to also keep in mind when printing abrasive stuff, it not only wears your nozzle.... but apparently can also wear out the drive bold in your feeder.... (part 1960-G according
to the UM2+ BOM, but dont be surprised if its not something you reseller has on stock..)
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A: What is the filament brand: extrudr
B: What is the type of filament: GreenTEC (high temp PLA)
C: What is the diameter of the filament: 2.85 mm
D: What is the weight of a full spool: +/- 1380 gr
E: What is the inner diameter of the core? 53,2
F: What is the outer diameter of the core? 106
G: What is the outer diameter of the whole spool? 199
H: What is the weight of an empty spool? 262 gr
I: Width of full spool (only when it is completely full because it can expand) 68,8
J: Width of an empty spool (only when almost or completely empty) 67
A: What is the filament brand: Makerpoint ( dutch, rebranded, not a manufacturer)
B: What is the type of filament: PLA
C: What is the diameter of the filament: 2.85 mm
D: What is the weight of a full spool: 992 gr
E: What is the inner diameter of the core? 53,1
F: What is the outer diameter of the core? 105
G: What is the outer diameter of the whole spool? 198
H: What is the weight of an empty spool? 254 gr
I: Width of full spool (only when it is completely full because it can expand) 53,4
J: Width of an empty spool (only when almost or completely empty) 53,2
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can't you just drop the model a bit below the build plate? without a picture it's hard to imagine your model...
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I can really appreciate the water cooling installation, do wonder about the stability of the nozzle lifting, but the results shared looked very good.
I prefer the Mark2 as it's technically simpler.
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4 hours ago, SandervG said:
I thought these would be preserved, I asked for our dear modified mark-2 users.
Nope... I've lost count on how many times I reinstalled Mark2 files...have not bothered yet on Cura3.2
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21 hours ago, SandervG said:
For the snappy quick overview of new features, doesn't the blog, forum post and release notes suffice? The purpose of the video would be to explain more in depth (and also show) what features can do and how they work with some more background knowledge and context.
Sure, ok there's no real need for the quick short video apart form marketing...
But the in depth teaching video's on features would be better imo if they would only contain one feature, shorter, and easy to refer to in case you want to explain something.
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6 hours ago, smartavionics said:
That's how I would do it if I was working on this feature. I think the current scheme isn't user friendly.
+1 for min/max layer height setting
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my 2 cents;
Think it would be good to distinguish between the purpose of the video's.
With a new release I would like a short snappy video quickly showing the new features, max a few minutes, like a commercial.
Besides that i like videos teaching the use of features, in depth, but always specific for only one feature.
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25 minutes ago, tomnagel said:
PVA printing is reliable on your UM3, if you stick to Cura profiles, UM material and keep ambient relative humidity below 50%.
While I agree taking apart a core should probably only be done as a last resort, I read between the line here it's the users own fault if a failure occurs when not using UM material. I think we've seen plenty of users with issues that did use UM materials, on the other hand, I myself have never had any serious issue with PVA, and I'm using cheap Makerpoint homebrand PVA. Seems to me environment plays a big part in the issue. I do store and print from a drybox.
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I assume you mean downloading CURA? If you just select "I don't want to share...." you don't have to fill in anything.
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5 hours ago, Nano-nc said:
Question: the original UM2 motor should be able to work with the UM2 + feeder by changing its parameters, right? If "no": what is the difference?
Works fine indeed, i have it on one machine.
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37 minutes ago, yyh1002 said:
The motor is 1.8 degree same as UM2+ motor. If your are using UM2+ board and UM2+ feeder, the default 369 estep should probably work fine.
I don't know the specs of the UMO motor, but if you have to change the steps its easy in tinker firmware, you'll find it here;
Advanced/preferences/motion settings
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3 hours ago, garaha2012 said:
I had my Ultimaker original - very original, one of the very first - converted to be an UM2+
Nice conversion!! seems like you're almost there, good luck and show us some results
Ultimaker AMA: Quality Control & Assembly - May 16th 5pm CEST
in Official news
Posted
love it! a photo explains more than a 1000 words.