ultiarjan
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Posts posted by ultiarjan
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Just change material manually, open the lever on the feeder and pull it, it will give you a feel for how many resistance there is. I only change material manually on S5 and UM3 and never had the material stuck, the retraction at the end of a print seems to work just fine for me.
It may be a bit oldschool but the manual way is just a lot faster... set the material type by selecting "select type" in the menu behind the dots.. If you load manually push it all the way to the end and then retract a few mm to avoid a too big prime blob..
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11 hours ago, Flowbey said:
So i made my first DualPrint STL-File by my self.
Great, Yippee!! serious, congratulations! It's always nice to achieve something new
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No, you can't run Ultimaker firmware on a duet board, but you also don't want that. the duet firmware is really good and open for easy modification, you'll just have to setup a few macro's for the tool change g-code. probably others have done it already...
There's plenty benefits to use a duet over an Ultimaker board, to name a few, the machine will be network connected, and have newer stepper driver which make the machine much quieter.
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You also need to adjust the size in the printer, but in the "Tinker mark2" firmware you can just do this from the menu, so I don't think that should be a problem.
edit; and I assume you use UM2 electronics because you have it laying around already? otherwise it's probably smarter to look at a Duet3D board...
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you get what you pay for, dimensional accuracy of Chinese clones can be terrible... it does not have to be... but its a risk for sure...
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if you 'merge' the 2 models in Cura after importing them, they will be placed correctly in cura automatically, just like with any other dual extrusion model.
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I see you basically are posting the same question 2x, and I now see you do use a top cover... thats good.
Again, I would try the adhesion sheets...
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22231-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-pc
Adhesion
Ultimaker PC is not an easy-to-print material because it tends to warp and delaminate if the printing environment and settings are not perfect.
We strongly recommend using the adhesion sheets to achieve the best build plate adhesion when printing with Ultimaker PC. Alternatively, you can apply a thin layer of glue (included in the accessory box of your Ultimaker) to the glass build plate, but please note that adhesion with glue is less reliable than with adhesion sheets.
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I never use PC myself, but looking at Ultimakers recommendations I would try the adhesion sheets... also you need to use a front cover, and probably also want to use a top cover....
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22231-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-pc
Adhesion
Ultimaker PC is not an easy-to-print material because it tends to warp and delaminate if the printing environment and settings are not perfect.
We strongly recommend using the adhesion sheets to achieve the best build plate adhesion when printing with Ultimaker PC. Alternatively, you can apply a thin layer of glue (included in the accessory box of your Ultimaker) to the glass build plate, but please note that adhesion with glue is less reliable than with adhesion sheets.
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the model seems indeed perfectly ok without support, but if you ever need "custom" support you can model it in in CAD, and safe the object and the support structure as 2 separate STL's, then just print like a nomal dual extrusion print (without support) and select the 2th nozzle for the custom support structure.
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+1 for unifying print speeds
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Tough I've not used the DDG, I like the QR feeders as they let you easily inspect the gears visibly, and are easy to clean.
On the cura topic, I think it's much easier to setup a profile in cura for the CC0.6 than reprogram it to a 0.4 I've used the CC0.6 on my Ultimaker3 and just changed the line width, I should find some time to set it up with a proper profile someday..
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and I assume the added benefit of adding it to base Cura will be that the save option can be in the visibility setting menu itself.
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8 hours ago, nallath said:
I'm totally in favor of this not being a plugin though. It makes sense for this to live in the "mainline" Cura code. So if you're up for it, make a pull request.
+1
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what printer did you use? 0.3 nozzle is a bit of an odd one... and what settings?
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did you try printing something from a different SD card?
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I would also not place a printer so close to the edge of a cabinet without some extra security....
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On 1/5/2019 at 6:00 PM, Alfsoft said:
Hm... I never thought of it that way. But hey, that is even cooler and enables more possibilities like making specialized custom sets for material types or even print types (miniatures, vases, etc). So yes, that would definitely satisfy my request! 👍
You can already make custom sets by editing the files that control the visibility settings.
Just make a copy on an existing profile, change it in notepad++, and save it under a different name, also don't forget to change the name of the custom set in the file;
obviously creating the custom list from the gui is a 1000x easier... so I would be very grateful @ahoeben if you ever find the time for this.
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do you have an idea what is blocking the core for removal? there is never a need to remove core's via the menu, even in normal operation I switch core's all the time without using menu operations (same for fillament change).
If there's a buildup of material blocking the core you may try adding some heat with a hot air blower, but be carefull not to overdo it with the heat...
Without a picture it's hard to see the severity of your issue, so I have no idea if there's a need to still disassemble the head for cleaning. Though it's a pita ofc, it's not to difficult to do, and also the spare parts of the head (besides electronics and the metal bottom) are really cheap, so when in doubt I would replace parts....
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8 hours ago, PaulK said:
- Really stiff filaments, like PVA, are a serious PITA to get into the extruder for loading.
I usually cut the filament end at a 45deg angle and straighten the tip a bit, then it's pretty easy imho
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8 hours ago, PaulK said:
Also, "engineering" profile that favors strength and dimensional accuracy would be nice.
Many have asked for this before, ever since the launch of the UM3, but the rumour is that now Ultimaker is working on it.....
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16 hours ago, tkamsker said:
Hi now i am also interested ? (curious )
I am tinkering of an UM version with 3 Heads would mean 2 colours and 1 BB head
So if you found the I2C code i would reimplement it on an duet board
thx
You can already use a CORE with a duet board with no problem at all, if you forget about the chip containing the number for identification of the CORE, it's just a PT100 + Heater, which you can use like any other PT100 + heater on the Duet (+pt100 expansion board ofc)
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no UM2's atm, but they do sell refurbished machines;
https://fbrc8.com/collections/refurbished-printers
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I'm not sure which parts are compatibled between UM2 and UMO, but in the Ultimaker Github locations you'll find the step files (3D modesl) of both UM2 and UMO, so you can check every dimension you need...
A bit strange, but the UMO file is also in the UM2 location...
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/Assembly UM2 stepfile.STEP
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/Total UMOr.STEP
Most CAD programs open .step files , you can use f.e. Fusion360, or DesignSpark Mechanical.
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thanks man, all the best for 2019 for you too !!
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Settings visibility
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
here's a list of all folders to delete to get a real clean install;
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/3051
And are you aware of the visibility settings button? you may want to select "show all" to see if there are messed up settings..
The settings not shown by default can indeed F@#$up you print... I particularly always check for crazy speeds, like to fast infill speeds...