ultiarjan
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Posts posted by ultiarjan
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Mayby @fbrc8-erin from https://fbrc8.com can let you know if she can still order the 2Go glass from Ultimaker. I would hope and assume Ultimaker will still support the 2Go with parts.
My re seller in the Netherlands has stock, but that will be expensive shipping...
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when you use a big enough screen you don't have to look at an "empty black recess" 🤣
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I also really don't like 2 spools on one holder, it's just an annoyance imho. But just like on any Ultimaker you can just hang spools from the side, much easier to reach as well. I don't care about not having the printer read the nfc chip of the spool, as at least half the time I use non nfc spools anyhow. And indeed with some bigger spools, like the 1 Kg spools from extrudr, It wouldn't fit otherwise.
Basically I use this thing attached to a piece of wood...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:235925
edit; and btw I never have any false positives from the filament detection.
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Nope, there's not, there's just the beta, so basically only use it if you like trying beta's... it's by definition not stable...
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obviously @Smithy's solution is the safest, but I see no reason why you can't just set the toolchange manually in the Gcode file. If you want to look at the way the UM3 handles the gcode just slice a tiny dual print (stack two smal cubes) and look at the gcode around the layer where the change occurs (use f.e. Notepad++ to change the gcode files). Look at codes like T0, T1 (set active nozzle) and M104, M109 (set temperature)
edit: save to / print from USB if you manually alter the Gcode
And read here for more on the UM3 Gcode;
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Indeed not recommended. Also this type of nozzle is not for sale separately.
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Volgens mij zijn ze inderdaad 1 cm.
De grijze buitenrand is dynamisch en past zich aan afhankelijk van instellingen.
Als je bijvoorbeeld dual-extrusion print zal de rand rechts zich aanpassen omdat je effectieve ruimte kleiner wordt.
Ook b.v. het aanpassen van je "brim" heeft effect. Print je met een bredere brim, dan hou je minder effectieve ruimte over voor je print.
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I had issues with the material override, for me it does not work from cura, but does work from the connect que....
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Think the S0 on the hot end fan needs to be S255.
Here's my fans setup (I use a case fan, type like a UM3 side fan, at half speed to reduce the noise)
; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 - print cooling side fans - value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S255 I0 F500 H1 T35 ; Set fan 1 - heatsinkfan -value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S153 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 2 - case FANS - value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off-
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1 hour ago, JRDM said:
It still sound a lot more involved and clumsier than the simple "Adjust Z Height" routine in the Tinkergnome menu where I can just turn the dial until the nozzle touches the middle of the plate and clicking saves the zero offset. Is there something I'm missing that can allow similar functionality in Duet?
It's almost as simple, you just move the bed up using the webinterface for leveling (I just use a piece of paper like like I always did on the ultimaker), write down the offset number, and type it into the "config-override.g". Specially as you really don't have to do it often I can't be bothered writing a macro for it.
But writing macros for the duet is super easy and flexible, also just changing firmware settings thru config files without the need to compile and do difficult stuff is just brilliant.
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Nozzle changing is not easy and will probably damage the CORE. Ultimaker uses a very high torque during manufacturing. These things a basically not meant to be taken apart again.... Ofc you can try anything, but be aware a leaking CORE creates a difficult to clean/repair printer head...
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+1 for just adjusting the value in -config-override.g- I do it like that also
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No material is "better" than another in general. Polymax PLA is uncomparable to ABS as it has a glass transition temperature of only 60 celsius, while ABS is around 85 - 105 celsius (depending on the brand).
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I agree it's a pain not being able to easily adjust firmware behavior, specially compared to the super easy Duet3D...
I solved the issue cheaply with a raspberry pi, a few webcams mounted over the printers and the use of motion eye. You can add multiple cameras to one Pi.
Sure it takes some afford, but only once, and it will not get messed up every firmware update
https://randomnerdtutorials.com/install-motioneyeos-on-raspberry-pi-surveillance-camera-system/
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Je kunt UM3's updaten vanaf USB, dus niet nodig om ze mee naar huis te nemen.
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13 hours ago, Daid said:
Vergeet de flowsensor niet. Minder failed prints wint zichzelf ook terug afhankelijk van je toepassing.
Ah ja, goed punt.
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Tsja, van de prijs kun je van alles vinden... maar inhoudelijk;
S5;
Natuurlijk als je groter volume moet printen.
Gehard aandrijfwiel in de feeders, voor printen van abrasive materiaal
Stillere stepper drivers
Betere autoleveling
Modernere bediening, touchscreen.
UM3;
Kleiner..
Als je abrasive materiaal wilt printen kun je beide feeders upgraden naar bondtech
Autoleveling werkt, zal op termijn neem ik aan meeprofiteren van de verbetering van de S5 (firmware)
Algemeen;
lichtere printkop is betere kwaliteit bij dezelfde snelheid, dus UM2 is de snelste, dan de 3, dan de 5
(bij de 5 is niet alleen de kop zwaarder, ook de XY assen zijn dikker en zwaarder)
UM3 en S5 vs UM2 :
De core is super handig qua onderhoud, makkelijker dan vervangen onderdelen in een UM2 kop
De 3 en de 5 hangen aan je netwerk, makkelijk bij beheer meedere machines.
De 3 en de 5 bieden meer gebruiksgemak, herkennen van Ultimaker materiaal.
De 3 en 5 kunnen bij hogere temperaturen printen door de core, dus meer materiaal opties.
Nadeel van het gebruiksgemak van 3 en 5 is wel dat bij problemen (bv volgelopen kop) de 3 en 5 lastiger schoon te maken (cq reparen) zijn dan de meer eenvoudige UM2 kop.
de UM2 is single extrusion.
voor UM2 is alternatieve firmware beschikbaar, beter voor de knutselaar, de 3 en 5 zitten toch "op slot" qua firmware.
Bij budget voor meerdere printers lijkt mij een mix van modellen het meest slim...
Bij low budget of 'meer tijd dan geld' is een 2e hands UM2 met bv een upgrade naar duet3D electronica een leuke optie.
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I used Ultimaker Nylon with PVA, think Nylon is one of the best materials to use with PVA, it sticks much better to it than PLA.
And no, did not try to use PLA as support, think you should give PVA another try....
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In my area (the Netherlands) it's enough to keep the filament in a container, without extra active drying. I've used PVA of over a year old (Ultimaker and other brand) without any issue. Prevention works. In other climates you may need active drying, not sure, but anyhow prevention pays of.
My simple DIY box, I also print from the box...
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Ultimaker brand ABS is a bit different than most ABS, in general most brands need a higher print temperature than the default Ultimaker profiles. The UM2 bed can reach more than 100c but it takes a long time, when printing ABS it saves time, but more importantly increases layer adhesion, if you cover the machine. Use a front cover at minimum.
example of cheap DIY options....
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-top-cover-clips
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-minimalist-front-panel
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I know you say you want to use Cura, but the options with post processing are limited. If you really need to tweak different heights (or parts of the item) Simplify3D gives you way more flexibility.
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+1 for a Bondtech QR, just works, easy to open for cleaning, hardened gears for printing abrasive filaments.
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I mainly use the spoolholders hanging on the side of my printers. On UM3/S5 I never place 2 spools at the back, think that's a silly setup. I mostly have one on the left and one on the back.
Ulitmaker 2 board dead
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Unless you have multiple UM2's that you want to keep the same for a consisted workflow, I would recommend replacing the board with a Duet3d board. Basically modernize your machine for less money. It's more silent, and it's network connected, controlled from any device that runs a browser.