ultiarjan
-
Posts
3,778 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
76
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by ultiarjan
-
-
About materials, if wood is difficult there's this wood-like material thats easy to print;
http://www.polymaker.com/shop/polywood/
And this is my favorite white;
https://extrudr.eu/collections/specials/products/copy-of-extrudr-green-tec-white
Oh, and do you know you can set the bottom/top height separately? since you stick it onto a plate anyhow you can save time by f.e. 0.6 iso 1.2 bottom thickness.
-
Harry, als ik het goed snap wil je op een specifieke plek underextrusion om een zwakke plek te creeren in je print.
Je kunt dit doen door de flow te halveren (of meer of minder). als je hiervoor de pluging "tweak at Z" gebruikt kun je specifiek de hoogte bepalen waar je dit wilt.
Je snelheid blijft nu hetzelfde, maar je legt minder materiaal neer, dus onder de streep gelijk aan wat je wil....
Voor mijn nieuwschierigheid, wat ga je hier mee doen?
-
The filament is probably fine. It may help to bend the end a bit more straight before you push it in.
Also, this thing helps;
-
And if you use an Ultimaker2 you have to change the default "UltiGcode" to reprap mode and you can also set custom start and end codes.
About what you are trying to do, you heat up your nozzle to full temp and it will sit there waiting for the bed to heat, in the meantime potentially cooking the PLA in your nozzle..... I think the saved time is limited, but if I would do a thing like this I would not bring the nozzle to full printing temperature.
-
ahhh nobody's perfect
thanks for sharing
-
One important thing to remember is to mention the machine you're discussing. The behaviour is different between Ultimaker3 and ultimaker2. While for the UM3 cura settings are leading, for the Ultimaker2 by default the printer is leading (using UltiGcode), but you do have the option to slice using RepRap gcode, which will override the machine settings.
I personally would like Ultimaker to choose a common approach for all machines and change the workflow for the Ultimaker2 to be the same as for the Ultimaker3, while this would be a big benefit for people using both machines, this would obviously also mean a workflow change for Ultimaker2 users.
-
About notifications, probably asked before @SandervG is there a way to get a "clear all notifications" button in the notification dropdown?
-
1
-
-
For a feeder I would suggest;
-
On 1/14/2018 at 8:58 PM, Bollicine said:
. The mold have been printed with PLA filament. I use mostly PLA, simple, no odor and stuff.
Love it. Any tips to share on concrete molds and the production process?
-
On 14-1-2018 at 12:28 PM, conny_g said:
What where the differences of the UM2+ upgrade again?
Feeder
- don’t care, will use a Bondtech > Yep, that will work fine
Print head
- Olsson block - don’t care, will covert to 3D Solex Matchless V3. Is it possible to mod the UM2 head with that? Yes, though I'm not sure there will be any benefit vs a standard Olsson block
- Stronger heater - already ordered a set of 50W, I wonder if 2x 50W will get you into trouble with the available power, power management is an issue for some people already
- Spring vs. alu ring above the coupler - does that make a difference? The difference is in the life span of the PTFE, with the alu ring it will last longer if used correctly, if not used correctly you may have a increased risk of leakage, You can also print this spacer iso getting the alu one, models on YouMagine
Fans and cabling:
- one was a different hotend Fan and how it’s connected (UM2 always on, UM2+ controlled by firmware?) ? Is it the same fan? If you connect the 2th head directly it will be always on, if you use the extra electronics board of Mark2 it will be controlled (both hot end fan and side fan)
- The fan shroud is optimized on the 2+. Could print one. indeed, i like this one; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-dual-nozzle-fan-shroud
- And wasn’t there something with the model fans, too? Are they same or different? you mean the side fans? think they are the same, they need to support PWM, when you get the Mark2 electronics board they will be controlled separately, otherwise the fans of head 1 and 2 will always be on at the same time (=more noise even when printing single extrusion, so get the electronics board...)
-
2
-
On 8-1-2018 at 9:49 PM, RudydG said:
I am still struggling with Cura 3.1, crashes all the time when loading someting, so went back to 3.04.
But there is still the problem with the quality definitions / can not save one, or load one. I know there is the solution in saving the project, but i have a feeling the 3.1 problem is related.
Does anyone has a solution? is it possible to get an updated "cura resourses" on Github?
Many thanks!
I run 3.1 with the Mark2 without problems. Maybe you should cleanout the Cura folder and do a clean reinstall? maybe you've had the Cura beta installed before and thats causing an issue.
-
5 hours ago, foehnsturm said:
No no, I don't like prime towers at all
ofc nobody likes the extra printing time, but imho they are pretty helpfull in getting better quality.... so I would definitely not write prime towers off....
-
3
-
-
I don't feel like doing a video.... this is the order I got printing on the Mark2 today
(M1 is Left material, M2 is right material)
START>
M1 - skirt
M1 - item
switch
M2 - skirt
M2 tower
M2 - item
M2 - item (2th layer)
switch
M1 - tower
M1 - item
M1 - itemetc.... always tower before item, did not try the shield, never use it
-
not sure I understand correctly, but isn't the easy solution to physically switch the spools/colors on the printer?
you can set the extruder :
-
On infill, as a side note, be aware some cura profiles, i think only on the UM3, have a thicker infill line setting, which you only see when you open the extra advanced settings. This results in thicker but less dense infill, and with some speed settings into under extruded infill, making a weaker print.
I personally think this is a pretty bad default, specially combined with some of the really high default speeds for infill.
-
1
-
-
I have no idea why you have this issue.
I double checked, also just did a Cura3.1 dual print on the Mark2 Ultimaker2, and the printing order is just fine.
What printer do you use? you may want to check you printer definition (the json file) against the UM3 file of the Mark2 file.
You'll find the mark2 info here;
https://github.com/foehnsturm/Mark2
https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/
-
Good source for Ultimaker parts and partnumbers, links in the middle of the page to all part photobooks, link copy below for you convenience;
If you want to order parts at you reseller, and they don't have it up on there webside, look it up here and send you own reseller a mail and include the Ultimaker partnumber.
http://www.mindkits.co.nz/silicone-nozzle-cover.aspx
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8M9SXv5Qgy3VTBoMjNYZklqa28/view
-
1
-
-
Just did a dual print, Cura 3.1 and Ultimaker3, including a prime tower. The print order is correct.
Are you sure? can you show a video?
-
Did you ever get in contact with your re-seller? from what I hear they will usually help you out with a case like this.....
Also, many parts of the head are pretty cheap, the metal part and electronics are expensive, but the plastic parts are cheap and easy to replace if damaged.
have a look at this before you attempt to take a CORE apart.
-
7 hours ago, morfeushav said:
I have some questions related to the dock position.
My advice would be to take the .step file of the Ultimaker2 (from github) and the step files of the Mark2 parts, and load a digital version of the mark2 with all the components into your CAD program, so you can take all the measurements you need.
-
indeed, many default CURA profiles for Ultimaker machines have a silly high 1st layer, Iike 0.27mm I usually change to max 0.2
-
In cura 3.1 you need to go to Post Processing.... this is a plugin, but it's not in the plugin menu...
-
what printer do you have?
Make sure to level the bed properly, on an Ultimaker2 just use the procedure with a tin piece of office paper. On an Ultimaker3 if you use autoleveling make sure to keep the nozzles clean.
Also use the correct bed adhesion method, If you print in PLA either make sure the glass is VERY clean (rub with alcohol) or use a bit of gluestick. When using gluestick put just a few lines on the glass, then wipe over the whole bed using a piece of slightly wet paper towel, you want just a very thin layer of glue.
-
it will slice when you tick the "print thin walls" box
it's seems cura produces some strange artifacts... and a huge amount of travel.
for this simple shape you may just want to try the "spriralize" setting for a nice clean single wall print.
-
2
-
thanks for sharing
How to prevent "overshoot" corners or "round edges"
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Also, be aware comparing print speeds has become virtually impossible since The Ultimaker3 and cura2/3.
for the UM3 if you set 80mm/s it's only the the infill, the actual print speed is 40ish...
Default UM2 profiles have this effect a lot less;
I would suggest to always communicate the used wall speed
@Bossler I assume the speeds you mentioned are the infill speeds... so actual wall speed i less that half...