qmaker

Here is one of the prints, I had to glue several pieces back on. This one was the one printed half and half down the middle. I find that to work great on most things that are somewhat symmetrical as it allows for a real sturdy flat bottom to begin the build.

It seems that I just keep creating models that are difficult to print. For me anyway... So I am working on a scorpion. Biggest issue is the arching tail and the legs. I did one where I supported the legs with a rocky base. That works for the legs, but than I need to do the tail as a little add on. I split the whole thing saggitally and got the tail and body great, but the legs break off. But then, I started trying to set it up so that a few of the joints will move or articulate to some degree since I felt like I had to cut off the legs and claws anyway. All of the sculpting is done in Zbrush, and I am working on trying to best create pins or ball and sockets for joints. Now that it is cut into pieces there are some sections that I just can't seem to decide how to best orient after splitting off. Now the parts have to be supported and have no solid base and keep failing. The legs in particular are a real bear. Maybe I should print them straight and then heat and bend them? I have printed it a couple of times in different ways, but still not satisfied. Here is where I am so far.

Illuminarti, Not trying to steal a post, just thought it would be best if I didn't start yet another clogged nozzle post. Any suggestions for superClog? I have had my ultimaker for along time and used the atomic method successfully many times. Recently I have a clog that is unlike any other. I have used the atomic method 10-15 times as directed by the Tips and tricks section. I cannot get it to unclog!!!! Any alternative last measure techniques? I already replaced the Nozzle and hotend awhile back. Maybe this is my push to move to the olson block. HelP Thanks

I plan on taking it back apart and making sure the wires are routed properly and free from damage. Does anyone have a picture of the wires coming down and to the fans, temp sensor and heater block? I just want to see if I can get a good idea of the proper slack and placement. Thanks,Q

Hi guys, Awhile back I replaced the temp sensor and Nozzle/ hotend. It seems that the wires have a tendency to interfere with the main fan occasionally depending on where the print head is. I have tried to reposition them multiple times, but wonder if anyone else has this problem or has tried to remedy it. I may try to slip all of them through a piece of heat shrink tube or other wire loom type think to keep them out of the way or interference. Since I am likely going to take it all apart again and reposition things is it worth changing anything else related to the main fans etc... Thanks, Q

Great information. I really appreciate everyone sharing honestly their experience and pricing. I am trying to get things off the ground here by offering 3d printing as a service to the local public. Initially, I have offered the printing as an end result of a larger design project not a standalone. Personally, I have not tried becoming a printer on 3d hub yet, but will look into that. I fear that MY biggest problem right now is that the layer height and quality that I find acceptable does not match the poor quality and lower price that I am seeing from my local competition. Deciding whether to drop quality to match price points and print times doesn't excite me. However, I realize that it is hard for the general public to accept a high price when they are used to seeing plastic objects in happy meals and as throw aways. Thanks to everyone here for input, it helps to hear how everyone values the print time and work involved.

Thanks guys, I appreciate you sharing. I look forward to hearing other thoughts and experience. Babysitting probably isn't the right term. It seems I could charge either hourly or per cm3.

I agree the supports from Cura have improved, but I do like having the ability to customize my supports through meshmixer.

I have been asked to print a very large piece. It will be a great deal of time and endless babysitting to make sure there are no reel tangles, nozzle jams etc.. I was curious what everyone is charging for print time if someone requests a print. I have done a little research and also know what the local 3d printer is charging around here. I have also taken a look at what it would cost if I were to have it done by shapeways. Anyway, I would love to hear what others are doing and if the community has come to any standardized rate.

Sorry if this is too much. I just thought I would share how using filament as alignment rods has really been helpful in assembling large multipart prints

Here are a few more assembly photos[/media]

Hi guys thanks for all of the feedback and comments. I finally have the 4 parts printed and am assembling them. I added a young buck imitating his father as a gift for my mom for Christmas. I was kind of sidetracked with a version of 2 elk fighting that delayed the larger print of the bugling elk. I will post a few photos shortly.

Thanks Ultibrain!! I modeled it in zbrush. I am currently printing an even larger version that I split in 4 pieces for the body and the antlers separate. It is by far the largest and longest print I have done since I have owned the machine. Approximately 30- 40 hours per quarter section LOL.... Assembling it now. I will post an image of it when I get it put back together or the process along the way if anyone is interested. Here is a link to a video showing the build process for the smaller one. Hope you like it. http://www.quadepaul.com/video.html

I just printed a 32 hour print without failure! Finally! I cut the filament to length and placed it on the original spool location. No question the nozzle has to be clean, so atomic pulls are mandatory. Did you replace your feeder with Irobertis? One thing I realized was that I had a small issue where the filament would work itself off of the knurled section of the feeder over time. My knurled feeder section was just a bit to far out. Maybe check that it is correctly centered on the filament and that the set screw is tight. Another thing to check. After printing the new feeder I realized that one piece of the feeder needed a bit more cleaning with a drill bit to prevent friction and small bits of debris being pulled up into the bowden tube as it was printing. One last idea or item to check. At one point I noticed that my bowden tube ID had constricted a bit compared to the other end. Likely a result of heat from the print head. Anyway, it was adding a bit more friction and created problems if the filament had the slightest variation in diameter. Hope something here can help.

All of the advice above is certainly worth double and triple checking, but if that still isn't the culprit check the filament tension off of the spool. I was having a similar issue and switched to irobertis feeder. After getting the tension right on the extruder it works great! However long prints fail for me after about 8 hrs. After that I check in and see that I am usually printing air. My problem is getting the filament off of the spool without too much tension. If I hand spin the spool every hour or so to loosen the coil it seems to work fine. I am searching for a better solution for the spool position and rotation. If I put it on the floor it works great for small prints. Long prints I have to rotate the spool. I might try to pre-measure my filament and cut it like Cloakfiend suggests. Hope you figure it out. I know there were some experiments with different spool locations and holders, does anyone have links or experience as to what works best? Just thought I would throw this into the mix.

Sure, its in the works as we speak. I will let everyone know what my experience and outcome is.

Thanks Guys, I appreciate all the great information.

Thanks Cloakfiend, What undercoat are you using? Something specific from SN, or just a general auto paint primer? I will have to give the acetone dip a try as well. Do you wash the print after the acetone dip and before the undercoat or paint after drying from the acetone dip. I am going to order some of the SN Paint/ patina Are these guys the same as Brick in the Yard? Sounds like the same guy in the video.

Does the 3d print have to be coated with XTC before applying sculpt Nouveau? How thick does it build up? My concern would be losing detail by the addition of the XTC as well as a second product on top of that. I guess the solution would be to really emphasize any textures or details so that they don't get lost. Thanks, Q

Thanks I will have a look into the sculpt Nouveau. Do you have some samples to post?

Thanks Peggy, looks like I need to slow down a bit, I think I am printing too fast.

Oh additionally I want to go larger, so I am trying to see if I could get greater scale in a vertical print. Here is the one in the post above mounted and painted

Thanks Robert, Thats exactly how I split my large one. But the seam was still more visible than I wanted. I guess I just need to take more time cleaning up that area. The reason I split it at the head was so that I could blend the seam into the ruff texture easier. I will post back my findings on which method worked best for me in case others are printing standing quadrapeds

I will search the site, but do you have any quick links to reel holders for the floor or otherwise that address this issue? What about ideas to relax the filament a bit before it gets to the feeder?