qmaker

I have heard a couple people praising simplify3d. Does anyone have any strong feelings one way or another. Perhaps there is already a good comparison out there for Cura, simplify3d, Meshmixer and others. I was turned off my mesh mixer at first, but have started to become more comfortable with it and find it a good tool for certain things.

So, here are my possible orientations and support options. A. On its back with Meshmixer supports so that the legs print more or less vertical B. The head and body split and Cura supports or C. Head and body split with Meshmixer supports

What was the print speed mm/s?

Hi Guys, I have printed a few models now that were quite difficult to orient in a way that would be ideal. I have used meshmixer to generate supports for one model, I have used zbrush to make my own, and I have simply cut my model in half and printed it that way. In general, I wanted to hear if there are strong feelings about meshmixer supports vs. Cura supports. If you do use Meshmixer do you use the Ultimaker2 (Dizingof's) setting? The base is separate, but I am tempted to try printing it as is with supports under the belly. Curious how experienced printers here would orient this kind of model.[/media][/media]

Yes I did. That is a great resource for printing issues. I was printing without issues with the original feeder right before I changed it, so I suspect the feeder change. Anyway, I took it all back apart and cleaned up any debris etc.. reset the tension on the feeder and took the reel off the back and set it on the floor. For now it seems to have fixed my issue. I think when it is on the reel holder on the back of the machine it is just too much. Thanks,

Has anyone experimented with ways to potentially warm and straighten the filament before it gets close to the feeder? I know that it wouldn't be good to get the filament to warm before, but maybe enough to relax it a bit so that when you get to the feeder the memory of the spool coil isn't as intense.

Hi, I downloaded and printed "Yet Another Ultimaker 2 Feeder" It seems to be essentially the same body etc.. as roberts with the addition of the rollers to help straighten and direct the filament. Since I have put it on, my underextrusion is even worse. I am not blaming the design. There might be problems with the material I printed it in, or perhaps the tension adjustment. Could anyone tell me the best way to find the correct tension for the screw? I would like to get it working properly. I have also read that some people have experienced issues of ABS finding its way up into the bowden tube and clogging the tip. I printed some of my parts in nylon. I hope this isn't my issue. I might revert back to the original design and reprint all the parts in PLA.

I had this occur multiple times and thought perhaps it wasn't plugged in tight at the circuit board. It seems it would go away and work for awhile before happening again. I finally replaced the temp sensor with the wiring and haven't seen it since. I am not sure if it was a problem with the wires or the actual sensor. The wires are pretty tiny and fragile. Just wanted to give you another scenario.

Wow PeggyB, did you print that without supports of any kind? Generally speaking, would most people agree that these materials are suited best for relatively small simplified prints? I would like to do a very detailed large print, but feel that the material might not be able to do it. My one test with copperfill left me wondering about the tradeoff between overall print quality and the metal like feel. I think it has its place, I guess its just a matter of choosing the right material for your final result.

This is a great pose and funny character. Who is the original artist? A few quick pokes and pulls in zbrush, mudbox or sculptris should get you there in a few minutes. time. Here is a quick version on my laptop with the trackpad. LOL I am sure if you took a bit more time you could get a better one. .

Is there a way to navigate directly to a members prints? If I go to the print section I don't see a way to search directly for someones prints. Additionally, shouldn't there be a link if you view someones profile directly. Am I missing it. Thanks,

Cloakfiend, Did you ever find a workflow, or solution to this? I too would like to metal coat, cast or something to take the prints beyond plastic toys. I find that it is really difficult to get anything taken serious outside of 3d printing circles without making things larger and from a traditional material. I am currently talking with a company here who uses CNC mills to enlarge and cut foams for something that might be turned into a large sculpture or whatever. I would love to hear what experience anybody has with this or other methods.

Thanks Labern, I will work on it and maybe with a little luck and some elbow grease it will come loose. Thanks for the tip, I will use that if nothing else seems to work.

Not trying to Hijack this thread, I just thought it would make sense if it was within the same thread instead of a brand new one. Hopefully it can help someone else with a similar issue. As you can see I had a bit of a disaster. In addition to any thoughts on the possibility of getting the heater cartridge and temp sensor loose, any idea how to best remove the remaining burnt PLA from the fan shroud. The last one shows how much larger the PTFE orifice is compared to a new one.

Could anyone provide any additional tips to get the sensor and heater cartridge loose from the heater block/ Nozzle. I tried to heat it and use various types of pliers, forceps etc. they just won't come loose! The heat sensor keeps kicking off the heater when it tries to heat up. I may try a soldering iron or hair dryer to see if I can get it to break loose. Any advice, thoughts, tips would be greatly appreciated.

I am right in the middle of replacing my hot end, heater unit, temp sensor and PTFE coupler. It sounds like many of you would advise just switching to the Olsson Block instead. The whole reason I have to replace the heater cartridge and temp sensor is because they basically fused themselves to the nozzle. Might be nice to switch or clean nozzles and not worry about breaking or screwing up other parts that were functioning before.

Thanks Titus, I have just been snapping photos every once in awhile when I get a chance and I am checking on a print. I have been meaning to look into Octoprint more to see what all I can do with it.

I am interested in setting up a web cam or an old iphone for capturing timelapse videos of my print. I currently use a webcam with Icam software to occasionally check in on a print, but don't have it setup for timelapse. I would be interested in hearing what software or methods people have used and any suggestions as to what might be my best option. I am on a mac.

Thanks for sending that along. I will definitely get that one and give it a try.

Love it. I think we all imagine are prints in a big world. I do anyway

DIY Universal Filament Filter Keeps Your 3D Printer Clean and Lubricated http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:492067 Seems like it would cause extra friction and result in underextrusion to me.

Thanks nallath, this will be the largest build I have done and thought I would just do a quick check here before finding out the hard way.

If I scale a model to Max does it actually print to that size? Do I need to scale it down a bit further to account for the nozzle? The preview in Cura shows the blue box, is that the safe zone that accounts for the maximum build and not the actual size of the ultimaker cavity? Sorry for the dumb question, just don't want to assume here and then have the model unable to reach the full height at the end of the print.

How well do the supports remove and cleanup when printing with bronzefill and copperfill. Any thoughts and comparisons between copperfill and bronzefill. Thanks,