pm_dude

Well according to most articles about bridge. Its not a problem as much as with other Nylon. "...One of the main problems with previous nylon filament was the moisture issue. Bridge nylon has over-come this and does not suck in moisture, making it easy to print with, durable, ..."

@ IronGland I tried with cold bed. If I print at 50mm/s and up it stay well on bed but I get some under extrusion. When I print at about 20mm/s the print warps upward slowly. I tried with no cooling fan too and got the same result. @Drato I have the crackling sound too... That with some fumes coming out once in a while. I cant say whats the cause but when its cooler it doesn't seems to make as much sound but comes out more transparent. I'll try with Higher bed temp for a change. Could be the room that has too much ventilation...

@IronGland I recently had issues with getting the print to stick for long on the bed at 50C with glue with my Nylon Bridge. I'll have to try on a cold bed with glue next time. I ended up doing a huge base of 1 layer (50% of that would have been enough) and I was seing the model pulling on the base until the first line of empty squares

Update: I have printed the FlexPLA with the exact same settings as the Ninja Flex. Its stiffer than when I was printing it at lower temp but its by far the best print I got with that FlexPLA. I dont know why but I like the smell of that material lol. I'll update with some picture later

Hello, I finally got to print some ninja flex properly thanks to all the good tips in this topic! WOOHOOO! No oil. Just using the iRoberti feeder. Works great now!! here is the difference on a wristband a friend needed Before: 210C 50mm/s at first and I had to slow it down where the text started due to a lot of under extrusion. Notice the color change too And now (bottom) at 235C 20mm/s: I still have some under extrusion here and there but the difference is huge. I'll try to play with the settings with Flex PLA too for a different model.

@Kris cool! How bad was the supoort removal and cleanup?

Here comes another utility print! This time I needed a replacement jean button Better do it in fashion Its on YouMagine too https://www.youmagine.com/designs/screw-jean-button

@mariem Nice! I like Attack on Titans

Yeah it works really well now with that new firmware

Hummm I might just do a small guide to snap on the bed plate with clear directions

I always wonder which side to turn lol. Your request is very relevent especially if this was part of UM1. When you go in My Profile -> Edit Profile the last text box is Printer(s). Just write what you have Ultimaker or not

I have my rolls in a drawer, not sealed but I keep them with all the small humidity bags that come with the rolls. The room humidity is kept mid to low in the room and so far its good. My rolls coming from Ultimaker had circle holes in them so they clearly have never been sealed. If they are new and already broken you can always try and contact Ultimaker directly although I don't think they need to take responsibility. My package was open by the customs so they could have something to do with your broken shipment too. I fond a shop near my place so I order new filaments from them now. I can at least make sure its in good condition when I get them. Each material have its own tolerance to humidity and each brand too (PLA, Nylon, ABS, ...)

Hi, It wont address your exact request to "fine tune" the bed level on the fly but the new firmware released here http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5935-z-axis-homing-inconsistent-on-um2-workaround-and-patch/page-6&do=findComment&comment=57095 fixes a real issue with maintaining the first print layer height consistency between prints. Updating the firmware from Cura is really simple.

if you print one at the time Cura will include the print head size into the needed space between each models. This is the dark rectangle you see on the bed when you select a model. Printing one at the time will reduce your potential print space due to the print head clearence it require. Also depending on your model you may want to print all at once to give time to your other models to cool.

In Cura there are 2 modes of printing in the Tools menu. Try loading the profile from the gcode in cura (File->Load Profile from gcode) and look at the Tools menu to see if its set to "print all at once" or "print one at the time". The advantage depend on the model you print. You might get better results if the head is not constantly going from one model to the other at every layer. Or you might want to use the "Spiralize the outer contour" option from the export settings while printing more than one model.

Thats what the Pause does using the menu on the printer... at least on a UM2 If you use the Pause at Height plugin in cura you can set the position you want it to go to. But that plugin doesnt work properly on the UM2 (is that fixed in the latest firmware)

@skint it didnt work actually. I tryed it and had to pause it myself while the Pause at Height was moving the head. Unfortunately manually pausing caused an offset and it started printing in mid air. I decided to change the speed at the height I needed and pause it myself when I saw that layer print. It worked like a charm.

Hi all, I've busy lately doing a replacement heel that fell on one of the bike shoes of a friend. I wanted to do it in Nylon and finally managed to get the first layer to stick on the bed. Unfortunalety I still had some underextrusion problems with the new feeder I installed (still need to find the good tension). Overall the result is ok but it could have been way better I had to pause the print to put the bolt and then get it to print over it. That was a fun moment

Ok that makes sense. Thanks for explaining more in details. I know illuminarti gave the advise of printing multiple one at once too. I had tried with a poll on the side but didnt got much difference since it was so small

@Didier Why is there a poll next to the head on the print?

It messup even at 20mms

@gr5 I didnt mention any leveling issue before because it didnt seem related before. And in the end it still isnt related so you can ignore that... my bad From what I see when looking at it printing it really look like it doesnt respect the minimum layer time (8 sec in my case)

oh sweet! Here is the model/gcode I'm printing https://www.youmagine.com/designs/benchmark

Hi again. @GR5 you are right Raft is not the issue. The issue seems related to aborting prints... I've been wondering for a while why the initial layer wasnt always the proper height and I think aborting prints and restarting in the same session is causing this (and the offset at the end of the print). I've change my Feeder to iRoberti version and needed to get the good tension again so I was aborting quite a few prints. The I started seing the initial layer getting thinner and thinner. I'll make some videos to show it. Is this a know issue (aborting seems to not reset to proper height) EDIT: The abort seems to cause the initial layer to get thinner but its not the cause of the final layers to be a mess. It happens only when the layer get smaller and smaller near then end of a print. The model I have an issue with ends with a small pyramid and when it reach the point where no other things are to be printed the printer doesnt seems to care about the minimum time per layer and at that point it spend about one second per layer when printing at 100mms.

@Bauermaker Wow thats great. The primer covered those polygons really nicely. How mush rework before painting?