pm_dude

Dont know. Maybe in the assembly documentation... Got anything of a specific concern if I may?

Hi Akila, Welcome to ultimaker! Glad to read your are enjoying your printer . Could you post a picture of the overhand? It will help see what is happening. You will see over time, that anything requiring support are highly affected by it. Contact with supoort is almost always bad. Some material react better than other.

Ok. Then why do I see many posts about holding thhe bowden clip thighter even with tywraps? I might have just not understood the problem properly but I was under the impression that the lift of the tube during retraction was not really desired. EDIT: Oh wait I just understood you are talking about the gab I asked about between the teflon and the nozzle. haha... Thanks Robert

But doesnt that cause an offset in the retraction?

Yes in fact I posted in my design your name and link to your clip as it was my base for the bowdeb guide . I started from yours and found I needed a 2mm clip to remove any gap

Like Robert said its hard to know for sure without seeing anything and from what I understand it could come from a number of things. Infill overlap is covered already, print speed, change in speed between infill and shell, nozzle temp, retraction settings. The good point is that you found a way to get rid of it

Ok so I got some time to do the bowden clip and a guide for the tube itself. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-bowden-clip-and-guide In fact the guide doesnt really do much but it supports the bowden tube a little better and makes it perfectly straight. The clip fill the 2mm gab between the white bowden clip and the top of the head. gr5, I dont really understand how we can remove the need for the clip seing the 2mm gab I see moving up and down when having big retraction settings. also I was wondering if the spacing between the white teflon piece and the nozzle was normal. I have the impression it wasnt there before and may have appeared when un clogging some wood fill...

Try reducing the poly count. High-res mesh are longer and more complexe to slice. Also if you have options to combine everything they also add complexe checks. I had cases that the slicing would not even start and simply reduction poly count using meshlab was enought to let it process the objects.

Put a smoke detector above your printer hahaha. I dont know if it would detect little smoke but fire should get it started

The only other things I can think of is the bowden tube when you change filament and "maybe" if retraction settings are set to the max

@Brett which feet did you print? I would probably print them as well. EDIT: I printed those today. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-footrest#!design-documents They are a bit loose but it works

Yes totally. In fact it goes really well with robert's feeder. I would probably consider using that drive gear if I get issues with the stock one eating too much the filaments but just wanted to make sure Sensebellum understood it wouldn't allow him to use flexible filament with just that. @Brett_Bellemore I saw one direct feed model on youmagine https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-on-the-top-extruder-mod I wonder how well that works. It must add quite some weight and vibration on the head...

@Daid Thanks for the detailed explanations. I see the future of Cura is bright!

Cool I use max a lot but I never used illustrator. Makes total sense! Thanks for sharing

I finally got a chance to test out a first filament of Faberdashery from a dozen of 10-20m samples I ordered the other day. Printed out like a charm. Like some would say: So I made a little something for my daughter. Go some pony on Thingiverse. I made the supports in Meshmixer and saved 30 minutes of printing (and no it didnt take me 30 min to do them ) removing support left some marks So I thought of Skint that soldered 2 filaments together to finish a print and used my soldering iron to simply smooth the surface a bit while it was heating up and got them almost completely out. Its the first time I try this and it worked pretty nicely.

@Travis Pretty cool! Did you extract the logo from an image or recreated it? If you did, what do you use for generating your mesh? I know there are a few options but that looks pretty clean.

Really? why is this out in Cura 14?

Cool. I'm happy to see this as been done in the past. Now with 20 microns precision it would be even better

Its my first look at the code but yes that looks alot like it. It would need some adjustment for extending the shell to have a common infill border. Otherwise you could create a too small or too big infill. unless I didnt see it in there.

HeHe! if only Lets say you go for maximum quality. On UM2 that 0.02m layer height. If you object is 200mm height your going to spend a lot of time on doing those infill while they bring nothing more to the print quality in the end. If you can infill at 0.2 and shell at 0.02 then that would be 10 X more precise surely not at 10X the time for the entire print. Side note: The same could apply with dual extrusion you could have a nozzle at 0.3mm and one at 0.8mm and do the infill at 0.8mm. That would allow for much faster infill speed and very precise shell.

anon4321 I though of that and what I had in mind is basically extend the shell tickness to meet the smallest aligned infill. lets say you have this slice the bottom part is thinner than the to part so shell on top would be extended to have a common infill border to attach to. The shell thickness would be considered as a minimum shell thickness

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone ever considered making an adaptive resolution of the slicing of an object. Lets say you slice the object at 0.2mm layer heights. On could consider making the shell with slices of 0.05mm making it 4 times more precise on the shell than on the infill. If could cut down print time considerably and gain great quality? Does that sound like a retarded idea?

Ok I'll have to try that. Brim could work too but since its doing the inner shell first it would still not touch the brim and could lift. I'll have to try

nice !

1. You're right. 2. Names on the UM2 display are the real names. They get trimmed if too long but at least its the real name. In OctoPrint I do not see the real name. Just the first few characters are ok. The rest is a reduced version ex: 0201~1.GCO 3. Nope. Straith print. Not even waiting for the nozzle temp or bed temp to be reached. 4. I like to monitor the print with octoprint but since of the issues above I dont want to use it for printing just yet. I installed in on the mac because I dont have a Raspberry Pi and the main goal for now was to be able to monitor prints remotely. Working full time I cant leave long prints unattended. I just need a way to see the print and cancel it if needed. Therefore having my mac connected is enough.