pm_dude

Yes I do 3 loops of skirt and yes most of the time its always at the same place since the print always start the same way. Here is a TERRIBLE image to demonstrate this using a screen shot on my phone and finger painted on top of it while in the park lol so when the print starts (green dot), does the first contour its fine. Then, when it moved to the first inner part to print the contour it doesnt stop at all like when doing the previous and sometimes the string stay attached to the nozzel and lift from the bed.

Thanks Duesentried! I got TeamViewer to work on my phone and mac. Installed OctoPrint on the mac and got it to work! For more details about octoprint go here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5181-installing-octoprint-for-the-ultimaker-2/

Hey I got the OctoPrint setup working directly from my Mac! Thanks Didier for writting all this. It helped quite a bit getting some of the final things together. I use TeamViewer to remotely connect from my phone to the mac and got my camera and stats running on it. There is so few things I dont like with octoprint: - The printer will reset every time I connect to it with octoprint. This mean I cant connect while in the middle of a print :( - The SD card browser is shit. It doesnt show the names properly ex: 870201~1.GCO (SD) instead of 87290_blablabla.gcode. When you have 5 files starting with the same number its kind of a wild guess to know which one to pick. - Starting a print from OctoPrint will, like 470m said, starts right away without pre print setup. - I cant cancel a print if it wasnt started by octoprint. I need to send the head home, lower bed, disconnect and reconnect to force a reboot.

You cant prevent the material to flow. Regardless the amount of retraction the nozzle will stay hot and presure will push the material out (quote taken from many seniors here ). I also sometimes have the remaining timer to show 6 hours remaining when its prediction passes time zero. No worries . you may also notice that you can get the predicted time to be completely wrong just by staying it the tune menu for a while. I had a 17 hour print that was showing 50 hours left today.

I have not seen anything for this but I would be interested in learning too My guess is that if it ever get to exist it will be able to change the speed and maybe the flow but not the nozzle temp because it takes too much time to change for such small section.

Doesnt tweak at z support layer number AND height in mm? If you mass produce you shoukd be able to have one setting the height 0 setting speed at 40% and one setting at height 1.0mm (10x 0.1mm) to set speed at 100%. Wouldnt that work? PS: dont forget to remove the setting for your next unrelated print since they stay saved in cura. PSS: I share your pain in the slow slicing...

Have you updated to the latest firmware? The print startup as changed and instead of having the head and build plate moving at the same time, now the build plate rise, head extrude filament a bit and then move in position. This makes a big difference in the risk of having the long filament get in the print. There is still extrusion going on while the head is moving but its much better now. The new firmaware also fix a build plate height issue (changing start height from print to print)

Tx.esc No I'm thinking about something that will allow to unclog the nozzle easily and without needing to loosen screws or throw away tywraps. I'll give an update on that as soon as I have 10 min on my pc Travel speed at 200mm/s is great but I dont know why on my printer even at 100mm/s I get some holes drawn on the bed that seems to lift because the head is moving fast and starting to extrude right away... The first inner shell after the skit is done seems to perform a very small pause after the travel and before extruding but the following inner shell will not do that and sometimes it cause the begining of that new shell to lift from the bed. This happen only on the initial layer and is quite annoying.

And thats generated by Cura? Then that could be a good starting point at the very least. If it can get added as a simple option it "could" probably also help for multi-threading like Daid was saying if it can be the starting point for every layers. I want to get into Cura's code at some point but can't seems to find the time to do so at the moment. I have no clue of what it looks like in there

I'm thinking to make one that will also support the bowden a bit above the print head. Mine is starting to bend on the side a little (far from being a problem right now... ). Same for the back. I saw a clip to hold it straight above the feeder.

Hello, Anyone got something working to remotely monitor its print while away from the printer & away from the local network? I want to be able to see the print going through video and possibly abort a print if needed. could be a remote computer control. Just need to be accessible from outside the network. I don't like leaving a print going while I'm away but when some prints take 15 hours and more its hard to be there and work full time at the same time. I'll give a try with TeamViewer on Android and give an update. Share your setup Thanks

Nice! Only very few under extrusion. What type of flex filament is this?

The firmware could lower z and then go to front left corner. Same when un pausing (move to position, raise buildplate). It does it already at the end of the print. It lowwer z a few cm then it go to back left.

Maybe cura could have a "tower" generator just like support. This way it could know internally that this is the place where z moves are made or could do the cooling head lift over that tower and wipe the string on it

Make sense since some of the added parts were put of the print range and some needed to be rotated sideways to be printed properly. Still the option in the menu should properly reflect what the slicer will provide as output.

Hi, I noticed that sometimes the print one at the time feature seems to roll back to print all at once when placing the objects to print in cura even if the option remained set to print one at the time. I can reproduce the issue by simply loading more objects in after placing a few already. I use drag and drop to add the objects and basically every time I add a new one the print head bounding box arount the object goes back to minimal size instead of staying full size. I dont know if it will actually print one at the time with wrong placment or not but that could mean smashing into other prints. Its easy to fix on the user side but its always better to not having to. Thanks

You can find some bowden clip models on youmagine.com. I couldnt find the one with a tirap I was looking for but I saw some version out there... Worst case you can do one yourself.

Yeah those parts are pretty clean!! Really nice. Whats its size? From the look of that carpet that tank looks pretty small

I was looking for freezer bags lately and found big ones at the supermarket. They are so big actually I can fit 2 spools in them. putting them all together in those bags makes me realize I have quite a few already (I got my printer a month ago) and I'll add some more this week...haha I love that printer... I remove most of the air just with a straw and leave one of the provided bags with it. Reading your comments I might remore that bag in the PLA ones. Size is 33cm by 39cm

I already did some pre assembled parts and also separated ones with Shapeways in the past but when you have powder it become far easier. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/RigIt Therefore, having dual extrusion and filament like Innofill coould make an equivalent for pre assembled parts and hard to clean supports just like powder does.

Awesome. I'll give this a try soon! I have a test to run in 2 steps this time. This is a print all in Nylon bridge but wanted to test with ninja flex for the inside grid.

Nice! Yes thats what I would like to see too. At least with your feeder its easy to change filament in the middle of a print. Any news on why the pause at height isn't working on UM2?

Well it would probably work (I havent looked at the size) but it would not help much for flexible filament if used alone since the biggest issue is the gap between the feeder gear and the begining of the bowden tube.

Here is the 10 X 10 version 8 hours out of 9 through the print I got a power cut :( There is sign of under extrusion every where but thats to be expected I guess when you have up to 500 retractions happening per layer. Anyway it did stick very well to the bed

Alright here are some news! Good News! I printed a piece using Nylon Bridge for a test of "Fabric" I made based on what we can now see being done in fashion/3d printing exploration. 240C/80C & glue stick 30mm/s, 0.1 layers Material flow at 107% retraction at 4.5mm, 40mm/s And most of all, Fans at 50% and I closed the front opening with a panel to remove any potential air flow (except from the top). No Brim The top is pretty shitty unfortunately but that was to be expected a bit since there is so many bridging invovled. Overall I'm happy that it didnt warp/shrink/lift from the bed and it actually work with a FDM printer! I'll have to retry with a bigger surface like 10 X 10 squares. Thanks for all the tips everyone