pm_dude

Hey sorry I'm a bit late on that topic but [Youmagineuser=username] doesn't seems to do much... It add the youmagine bar with blank designs and when you click on any blank box it refer to EDIT: ho god.... copy paste is really evil

Ho yeah! I seen this one before. Its true T-Glase could be a good test to run too. I ran the test between 0.2mm and 0.3mm layer height and the bigger the better for transparency.

@manattic Its pretty nice! How big is it? how many pieces?

higher. for XT colorfabb recomment 2.7 and up. I'll try another print and test at 0.2 and 0.3 to see the difference.

Here it is!! I made another topic for it so we can add new filaments to the Quest for a clear print . http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6754-quest-for-a-clear-print/ Your right on that one too Enjoy

Triggered by the request of TMrevlje http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:175065. Cutting the top I inserted a blue or red filament to see it from outside. Using Ultimaker 2. First I started with Colorfabb XT and used the setting Colorfabb recommend: - 240C/70C - 0.27mm height - 0.8 thickness - 0.8 top/bottom - 0 infill - 30mm/s - Flow at 110% - No cooling fan - Cooling time per layer was at 5 sec making it go slower and slower near the end. - Cool head lift was on but was only triggered on the last layer. All the following prints will detail only the changes made to the PREVIOUS print settings. Model was printed standing up so layers are mostly aligned with the tube. Supports done in Meshmixer. 1: - XT (all above settings) I found it a bit too white and not clear enough 2: - Use Ultimaker Natural PLA (clear) - 225C/60C Difference between PLA(left) and XT(right) All the following are using Ultimaker Natural PLA 3: - Try with the model like shown in Thingiverse (sideways) + supports using Cura Difference between print 2(left) and 3(right) 4: - Going back standing but with less supports to remove as much as possible the head jumps. - Remove cool time per layer The print was too hot with no cool timer and no fan 5: - 210C - Fan 100% - 20mm/s Difference between print 2 (left) and 5 (right) 6: - Removing top/bottom (set to 0.0 instead of 0.8mm). I remove it because it add infill everywhere the shell thickness of 0.8mm per layer doesnt create the required top/bottom thickness. It cause the head to jump to go fill the gap once the shell is complete. Difference between print 5 and 6 7: - 190C Too cold Difference between print 6(left) and 7(right) 8: - Back to 225C Difference between print 6(left) and 8(right) 9: - Back to 30 mm/s Too fast and too hot (even with fans) Difference between print 6(left), 8(center) and 9(right) All the prints from 1(top left) to 9 (bottom right) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byhp9wWpyMGWcDJRamtiSUVQTTQ/edit?usp=sharing So overall my findings are: - print 6 is the most clear print - print 8 is second but is more constant than 6 - printing at between 210C and 225C at 20mm/s with fans is good. - having the cool layer time will bring change in transparency due to print speed changes. - every single time the nozzle extrude filament you will reduce transparency. If infill gets added you see it. Depending on the print it might be possible to remove top/bottom if not try to keep it lower than shell thickness - I need to test again with other transparent filament. I have 2 translucent (blue and green) from Faberdashery. They are very light so it may give interesting results - I need to test layer height (smaller and bigger).

That's nice. I didn't knew you could do that! I'll take the time to read all of this really carefully Thanks gr5

Hello, Anyone plugged his Ultimaker 2 to a UPS? I already got 2 power cut recently and one occurred after 8 hours of print just one hour before the end... I'm looking for something that would hold for at least 15min up to an hour. Thanks

Sure. I should have time tonight to test it out.

Or this one http://learn.colorfabb.com/print-_xt/ There are a few tricks for transparency. I have some XT left from a sample if you want me to test a model

Colorfabb xt maybe?

I'll have to try it @TMrevlje Holy poop! yep that will take some time.

Small update! Did some more printing with wood fill fine. I changed the temp to 210 - 220 with still a lot of clogging. Reduced speed to like 30mm/s and got the same thing... That was a 0.15mm layer height this time. I ended up boosting the flow to 130% in a sort of desperate attempt to get it to flow and it worked!!! Actually its better than my previous print. Less coarse, smoother, no under extrusion. It ran at 55mm/s all the way except the first layer was at 30mm/s. I even got some strings to remove at the end. Final settings: 55mm/s 0.15mm height 220C/60C Flow 130% I dont know whats up with the wave inside but it looks like wood! I'll definitively try again win less flow just to see (between 110% and 130%)

I'm trying a print right now that uses 0 infill and 2mm shell. So far its doing great. I'll have to run the test again for this specific need cause this print is in wood fill and is set to flow at 130%. At least its the first time it doesnt clog at all I'm happy to see that you also boost the flow... I'm always having the impression its more a hack to counter real issues

You might have too much pressure in the feeder if its grinding filament. It can also be cause when too much pressure is in the bowden tube due to irregular filament size or previous grinding that produce a chunk of filament that is stuck between the filament and the tube...

Hahha. I felt like that too. Are you running it on Mac? If so use the Terminal to run those commands... Its freakingly retarted but there is nothing else you can do really so just hang in there and You'll get it to run

I use lines a lot but like you said the taller they get, the less likelly I will use them. Why not connect the lines together like grid does until contact to the model - 2mm?

Hello, I've noticed that the shell thickness is done in a way that allow for compression a bit if you have a thickness of a little less than twice the nozzle size but wont allow it if you go above double the nozzle size. I like to set the shell thickness to 0.7mm because it cause the inner and outer shell to overlap a bit and gives good adhesion depending on the material. I had cases where faster print would leave a gap between inner and outer shell and increased case of separation on some parts. I could have been printing at too low temp for the speed of print... Ninja flex is another case I like to overlap inner and outer shell. So I was wondering if in the future versions of Cura there could be a way to specify the number of lines the shell should have and the overlap percentage (like the current infill). This way you could tell to print with 3 lines that have 15% overlap. I want to start playing a bit more with shell thickness especially for translucent material that I would not want to have 100% infill but would want to have the same feeling.

The last 2 prints were print with: Nozzle: 225C (reading from colorfabb I could try lower temp) Bed: 60C Height: 0.1mm Speed: 60mm/s Flow at 108% And off topic I scored 52680@ Bleeding Edge

I wouldn't say no to a second nozzle with a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle just for that. Did anyone got 2 nozzles installed on the UM2 not to be used for dual extrusion?

Its bracelet time! Faberdashery Aurora and Glacial Blue. This filament is so easy to print!!! Finally got to have a decent print with colorfabb fine wood filament. Sanding is really easy with it. Tried a second one after that and add to pause 4 times to partially unclog and continue. In the end I stopped watching for 5 minutes and it clogged big time :( Its kids size. Here is the link https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bracelet-kid-size

Your question is not silly at all. It's part of the learning process . I don't know what you have printed with raft but depending on what material you print with, it wont be that easy to remove. Yes it may look better but its also more connected to your model than normal supports. It also depend on what temperature you print at since the hot material will stick more to existing layer. Consider using Brim instead. your model will touch the base and brim will be added around your object for many layers (20 or 30 by default). There is the option to print support with lines or grid (expert settings). There is no option (to my knowledge) that will fill the top of the support. Grid is more solid but more difficult to remove. You can also consider generating your supports in Autodesk MeshMixer. Its free and very useful for objects like figurines. It could be worth the try to just model the support yourself and print with that instead of generating it in cura to see the difference.

well I expect you have a pc or mac so yes you can control your printer using OctoPrint on your computer and control your printer if connected through usb. check http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5181-installing-octoprint-for-the-ultimaker-2/%20for%20more%20info

Well then it all depend on what your printer already printed. It will have printed PLA for sure at Ultimaker

I guess you could use XT and put it in the dishwasher first for food contact. But that wouldnt be 100% safe (nothing is anyway) Got to choose your battles Oh and dont forget anything that is on the bed, glue, tape, dirt, air spray,...