korneel

January 27, 2016

located in NL, 240 volts, functions just fine, i bought the one that Blizz got but didn't use.. since I'm completely focussed on 3d hubs i don't use it anymore..

January 27, 2016

it's an actual fuse clamp one the one this topic is about

January 27, 2016

i think i paid him 50 euros.. shipping would be 13.. let's say 50 in total?

January 27, 2016

yeah same here..

i actually bought the one from Blizz

not using it anymore, you can have mine for a small fee?

January 27, 2016

I think that's the first time I've seen the name mentioned on the "outside". Took you guys long enough

I heard other names but Jar Jar was new to me.. just noticed it when trying to compile UM2+ firmware..

January 27, 2016

I was looking through the firmware repository since I needed a custom firmware and I've only just now realized that the UM2+ was codenamed JarJar.

it just really makes me not want it anymore.... irrational I admit..

I also want to go through the firmware to find out if there are some "Meesa" easter eggs

January 26, 2016

Yellow shark

1st layer was printed

60% speed

Layer height 150%

All other layer setting for first layer left at 100%

It's filament size is stipulated in s3d

Yes have read temp on the um2

Filament is being held on spool with iRoberts filament spool holder on bearings.

I suspect I have a drive problem either it is feeder side or possible within the head Ptfe/spacer,

I did not have an issue before I changed feeder/head and setting is s3d worked.

Will strip head later today/tomorrow

I do suspect it is an issue of filament being

Hmm this is interesting.. is this the olsson block, a PTFE coupler and my tube? there seems to be a lot of room between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator. there should be around 1 or max 2mm..

it seems yours has around 5 mm..

if there is too much room between the block and the PTFE coupler, filament will get in between

maybe there's an I2K insulator also?

yeah I thought about that, but even with the I2K isolator there should not be such a big gap.. if he shaved of some of the tube (which he said he did) that might explain :)I'm afraid something might have gone wrong with the pressure or something else..

Yep, check mine of my UM2 (not my plus), it's almost the same distance... (I2K installed also)

yeah that;s not good with a spring.. way too much pressure on the PTFE..

January 26, 2016

Yellow shark

1st layer was printed

60% speed

Layer height 150%

All other layer setting for first layer left at 100%

It's filament size is stipulated in s3d

Yes have read temp on the um2

Filament is being held on spool with iRoberts filament spool holder on bearings.

I suspect I have a drive problem either it is feeder side or possible within the head Ptfe/spacer,

I did not have an issue before I changed feeder/head and setting is s3d worked.

Will strip head later today/tomorrow

I do suspect it is an issue of filament being

Hmm this is interesting.. is this the olsson block, a PTFE coupler and my tube? there seems to be a lot of room between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator. there should be around 1 or max 2mm..

it seems yours has around 5 mm..

if there is too much room between the block and the PTFE coupler, filament will get in between

maybe there's an I2K insulator also?

yeah I thought about that, but even with the I2K isolator there should not be such a big gap.. if he shaved of some of the tube (which he said he did) that might explain I'm afraid something might have gone wrong with the pressure or something else..

January 26, 2016

Yellow shark

1st layer was printed

60% speed

Layer height 150%

All other layer setting for first layer left at 100%

It's filament size is stipulated in s3d

Yes have read temp on the um2

Filament is being held on spool with iRoberts filament spool holder on bearings.

I suspect I have a drive problem either it is feeder side or possible within the head Ptfe/spacer,

I did not have an issue before I changed feeder/head and setting is s3d worked.

Will strip head later today/tomorrow

I do suspect it is an issue of filament being

Hmm this is interesting.. is this the olsson block, a PTFE coupler and my tube? there seems to be a lot of room between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator. there should be around 1 or max 2mm..

it seems yours has around 5 mm..

if there is too much room between the block and the PTFE coupler, filament will get in between

January 25, 2016

Thank you all,

Yes you are totally right if you need it buy it.

So what I did was actually to get an Ultimaker 2, since my local reseller had a great deal: 20% off and free Olson block. So now I am a happy owner of two great machines! Since I run exclusively on XT transparent and my UM2 Extended works perfectly I am very happy with this choice. Of course I am going to have to get the Isolator and bowden tube that 3dsolex provides. But I really feel like I earned some money here. If there comes out a new machine that makes me drool I will buy that as well.

But for now I am very happy indeed.

great congratulations on your new machine!

January 25, 2016

But will they (3dSolex) fit with the new "Spring replacement"?

it should.. the design should be remarkably similar..

the one from ultimaker does allow you to secure the hot end couple completely to the block, mine requires you to "fine tune" the pressure

January 25, 2016

honestly, that's simply the best way to test your entire feeding/printing system. if the little ice cream cone is not there, you have a problem..

example at 8:50

your icecone can be larger or smaller depending on how much the filament has retracted, but if it does not come out as a cone you have a probleem with the feeder, ptfe or nozzle..

January 25, 2016

can you try starting a new print with PLA and see if the machine drops a nice icecone before printing on the front left side?

January 25, 2016

I was actually thinking of buying a new Ultimaker 2+ this month (I already have a Ultimaker 2 extended). But as so many has said it seems to be a bad idea with these rumors of a new machine floating around.

There are always rumours of a new machine ;)If the 2+ does what you need it to do, waiting doesn't make sense (eg; you will be waiting forever, as there will always be something 'better' on the horizon)

what Nallath said.. if the Um2+ works for you.. buy it.. because I'll let you in on a secret.. in 2017.. there will me more new machines

January 25, 2016

hi chaps Im having a problem it looks like your last comments bear my situation.

Im printing bonzfill and usually 210 (labern) uses I started out hear and could not get the print to flow seal ect. Im now printing at 236 and a flow of 220. Is this normal my feeder is clicking at about every 10sec NOT slipping motor slipping I presume because of the build up of pressure in OB. Im using a .40 Noz from 3d solex one of his first. any thought advise please.

so a flow of 220 is absolutely not good

you should be fine with 100, in some cases the flow has been increased to 106 if you have a material that can flow well when heated, such as ABS. bronzefill does not flow well or spread out so keep it at 100..

if you have issues with the flow, check out the material path first.

you have an Olsson Block, so gently screw out the nozzle, take out the Bowden tube from the top of the head and (when cold!) take a piece of filament a gently push this through the head. if you feel any resistance, so will your filament.. most likely it's the PTFE coupler..

the ticking sound you hear is the feeder motor not able to make it's rotation. it's just as bad as grinding since it will "hammer" on the filament, starting to dig it's way in.. you should not be hearing that..

January 23, 2016

yeah and most of the times it'll work just fine.. but that would be my guess

January 23, 2016

Yeah indeed, and still wondering when you would ever use 240c for PLA.... so would like to see a table of when these different temps kick in (did not look into the firmware but I assume it should not be to hard to find out...)

well, remember, that with the new PT100, this sorta compares to around 230 for the existing machines.. and if you are using a .8 nozzle at 50mm/sec (which is something the new feeder can do!) i would not be that far from that temperature..

January 23, 2016

Hmm 240 for pla.... I wonder when that will kick in... also remarkable that the pla sequence is not just going up...

@nallath ?

I dont quite know what you mean by this..

I think @UltiArjan is referring to the fact that the other temps stay the same in all options, but the PLA temp goes from 210-210-195 and then up.. so same same, down, up..

I am assuming it has everything to do with the firmware that it is using, where you select the material and the nozzle size.. i suppose you would be able to select a nozzle size and a temp would fit to that.. so it might be default nozze, then 0.4, 0.25, 0.6 0.8 .

January 22, 2016

Hmm did anyone check how significant? Not even close to 20c I hope.....

i checked.. I ran 2 machines, one with the new PT100, one with the old one with a fluke temp sensor inside the nozzle.

the old PT100 had differences up to 10 degrees.

my test : printer at 250 degrees celsius with the old sensor : fluke reporting 258 degrees, printer at 260 degrees, fluke reporting 270 degrees. printer at 100 degrees, fluke reporting 106 degrees

with the new PT100 i also tested these 3 temperatures and they were spot on.

so perhaps i was just unlucky with a bad PT100 but they differences are very large...

January 19, 2016

@neotko;

could you share your basic settings for Simplify3d for your Um2? very interested to see what you have changed compared to stock

January 19, 2016

I've now lost all notifications....

January 19, 2016

I hope the new printer can print money.. that would help with the 3d printing projects..

January 17, 2016

thanks! that is fantastic feedback! i was already messing with those settings since i thought something might be wrong there but this confirmed it

question thought.. is there an easy way to place the objects flat just like there is in cura? if you have really small models with loads of triangles the select surface just doesn't work right..

January 17, 2016

all;

love to get some feedback on my settings. been using Simplify 3D since it has some advantages over Cura for me, for instance direct output to OctoPrint but also better support structures and so far, better (perceived?) quality.

my issue however is that if I slice a print in Cura, it takes 12 hours. if I take the same print and with the same kind of settings as far as I can see, it would take at least 18 hours..

love to get some feedback on my settings as per below

my goal is good quality with 0.2 layer height in PLA;