korneel
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Posts posted by korneel
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I'm pretty sure that with new rods it will be perfect as the others.
I upgraded one of my UM2 with the upgrade kit and replaced the rods on my 2 years old UM2 and only that changed the print quality a lot (i also changed the block and temp sensor + new 35w heater and took the newest UM2 head i changed with the upgrade kit). Maybe the LMUU6 bearings from the head can add some friction also.
The feeder (Roberts) and tube are still the standard ones.
i actually replaced all of the bearings, including the LMUU6 bearings, to get rid of some noise.. did it on the one, not the other, so that;s not it...
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I recently switched over to the bondtech and at that occasion also exchanged the stock bowden tube with a ptfe tube. the difference is really astonishing, even if you push the filament through without anything else attached. i could imagine that if there is some pressure, the friction is even higher. maybe exchanging the bowden helps and it is cheap to replace.
great suggestion! unfortunately, this is a new bowden tube and not the problem.
but did you replace it with a regular tube or a ptfe tube?
regular tube..
where can you buy PTFE tubes?
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He has upgraded them to 2+ so he has fresh TFMs in there, and fresh bowdens. It's a bit strange to say the least.
well, the upgrade has been done with partial custom parts (since I was testing quite a few things I did not need the complete upgrade package) so I have replaced everything except the X/Y rods.. I've ordered a new set.. let's see how that works out.
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How many hours have you been printing with the UM2+ upgrade?
I had this (with a pre-production upgrade) after approx 250 hrs ...
The teflon isolator was mounted with too much pressure on it. You could see deformations on the outside and the inner diameter was 2.9 mm! Drilled it to 3 mm now it's working again.
unfortunately that's not the case. I verified the smoothness of the filament movement (remove the print head and slowly slide some filament through the nozzle to feel for deformation) and they are perfectly fine. I hae also been testing with different pressure for a year now, so I've broken my fair share of couplers
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Also just one weird idea. Can you check the hotend, ofc the um2+ it's designed to now touch the olsson, but since it's a human the one that assemble it (I guess) maybe the metalfan it's touching any part of the olsson block? That could explain a cooler extrusion than intended. Just dropping ideas.
great suggestion. I did however take care of this and this is not happening..
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I recently switched over to the bondtech and at that occasion also exchanged the stock bowden tube with a ptfe tube. the difference is really astonishing, even if you push the filament through without anything else attached. i could imagine that if there is some pressure, the friction is even higher. maybe exchanging the bowden helps and it is cheap to replace.
great suggestion! unfortunately, this is a new bowden tube and not the problem.
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If it were me I'd probably try swapping over the feeder first and then the stepper motor from a good machine to a bad one to see if that changes things.
did that... no change..
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Your other 2 UM2+ are printing the same file without any problems? or they work with the same filament in other projects without problems?
same file, same filament, no problem.
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hello everyone;
I have done the one thing that I always hate.. I have failed to reply to my own topic :(
so this is happening on 2 of the 4 printers. one is really bad with certain materials, one is just "normal" bad.. the other one has not problem. the one thing that differentiates them is the age.. this is 15K versus 10K versus 5K hours..
so i;'ve gone through some of the topics and it has been suggested that it might be the X/Y shafts.. so this is something I will change hopefully in the next 2 weeks since these have a long backorder time.. will keep everyone informed.
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gents;
a bit of an advanced question.
first, the environment;
I have 3 UM2's, all upgraded to UM2+ printers. they work perfectly, very happy with them.. until today.
I am printing a complete BB8 for a customer, and one of the things they require is multiple outside layers. it is then that i noticed this:
as you can see, the layers are not even close to touching..
so I did the standard things, performed an atomic pull, not debris at all..
then i changed the nozzle..
then the bowden tube..
then i cleaned the feeder..
then i placed a ferrite core over the cabling for the feeder..
then i sliced the object again with Simplify3D.. then with Cura..
and now.. I'm stuck.
my other 2 printers don't have this issue when using this filament.. so in short.. i have no clue what to do
i tried printing slower as well, hotter, i tried the tension on the belts, everything.. but I can't seem to fix it..
the material is Colorfabb PLA-HPA, and this just drives me crazy.. does anyone have a bright idea?
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@Blizz ;
please keep in mind the temperature will be more precise with the new temp sensor.. so try adding about 10 degrees to your printing temp.. that should take care of your issues.
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The ferrite is mainly for EMC reasons, will probably do no noticable difference
@Korneel: you can change the temperature limits if you compile your own firmware, and if you start with Tinkergnomes firmware it is really not that hard.
side question, would you be able to do that for me? i have never messed with the firmware... i always messed with the mechanical side of things
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The ferrite is mainly for EMC reasons, will probably do no noticable difference
@Korneel: you can change the temperature limits if you compile your own firmware, and if you start with Tinkergnomes firmware it is really not that hard.
i don't really want to compile my own firmware.. would love if Ultimaker would just up the limit..
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I'm also interested in hearing what the ferrite core is improving...
on a plus note (see what I did there?)
I upgraded my 3 Ultimaker 2s to Ultimaker 2+ printers..
been testing with different stuff for a while but it became time for all my printers to go back to stock.. and the + upgrade package was exactly what it needed..
so my starting point was a set of 3 Ultimaker 2s, I run them 24/7 and I need total reliability. to do that, my printers were all running the UltiArjan Rail System, the UltiArjan Feeder, my spring replacement, some current and amperage changes to the Feeder Motor, custom fan shrouds and some smaller changes... All in All, very far away from stock..
But I was getting a 99 percent succes rate.. something I needed since most of the prints I do are 24+ hours long.. for instance, I'm printing special light covers that are 36 hours a piece.. that's going to be expensive failures if I get less than 99 percent..
anyway, The UM2+ upgrade di have the things that I needed.. The improved fan shroud, the low noise fans, a convenient spring replacement, reliable feeder, heater upgrade and even better, a reliable temperature sensor..
so first the bad..
the temperature sensor is a blessing and a curse.. the blessing is that it is very very accurate. I put a Fluke temperature monitor inside the nozzle and got a difference of max 1 degrees with the new temp sensor.. so that's fantastic news! now why is it a curse? the old one reported a low value.. so if i set it to 260.. the actual temperature could ran up to 275.. and while reporting 260 the temp could fluctuate between 272 and 278.. so that will not help print quality at all.. so the new temp sensor has indeed improved my print quality.. but the drawback is.. can't reach 275 degrees anymore.. which means printing with Colorfabb XT has to be done at 260 degrees now for a 0.2 layer height and i could actually use some extra degrees.. guess I'll need @TinkerGnome firmware for that..
anyway, that was the only bad thing.. perhaps the retractions have gotten a little bit noisier..
but is it worth it? no doubt.
yes, it is expensive as hell.. and yes, a menu style buying of upgrades would be nice.. but that's coming..
the upgrades are good, well thought out and very very reliable.
so from a happy UM2+ upgrader.. you won't regret it.
@SandervG .. perhaps you want to mention the temperature learning curve on the upgrade package.. if you are used to printing at 230 for instance.. you would need to at between 8 and 10 degrees with the new sensor or you will get symptoms that look like underextrusion..
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All;
since my amount of Ultimaker 2s are getting a bit out of control, I'm trying to get a bit more control..
one of the things I want to do is get some of the spacers/tables..
as per
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/the-ultimaker-table
and
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/the-ultimaker-spacer
While there are some files included, they mean nothing to me.. I don't have a lasercutter or CNC machine..
preferably, i'd have a couple of these spacers (and perhaps the tables too if i get the dimensions..) in the same material as the UM2.. if that's not possible then I'd take a different material..
is there someone here who has made them and could help me out?
thanks!
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I've gone over your profile a couple of times and i'm not a big fan.. mostly the retraction settings.. you've upped the speed a bit making it very noisy and i have not experienced any advantages so far..
what are the major changes and their advantages?
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@frederiekpascal nevermind, found your profile!
but... your profile actually uses an infill of 15 percent and a support percentage of 50.. that seems weird? i would say infill at 20 and support at 18?
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what settings are you using for simplify3d in conjunction with the ultimaker 2+ extended?
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well @cloakfiend , the nozzle size basically specifies the speed of the extruder.. large nozzle = more filament, smaller nozzle = less filament.
so by running a 0.4 at the 0.6 setting you are overextruding
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I know the software isn't going to change.
I respect the other points of view.
But when you see contributors voice frustration and opt to only stop in periodically...especially Mr Olsson Block himself...well...being here for 3 years, I have certainly noticed the engaging conversations drop down considerably.
You can paint me as any muppet you like
and I think it's great you and others come back and voice what kind of improvements you would like to see.. I keep doing that and I would highly encourage other people to do that too..
but some people just drop in to say how much the new software sucks and they should use something else while we all know it's not going to happen.. that's the tiring portion to me..
and now i replied even though i said i wouldn't
I wasn't targeting specific users as being a muppet, it just feels that some people only check in at this point to see if stuff is on fire yet and add some extra fuel.
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so here's my 2 cents.. since my name got mentioned here..
let;s start off with this..
There are many aspects i absolutely don't like about the forum. It just feels weird and i see no reason why the wheel had to be reinvented. any of the points brought up so far why it was don't make sense to me and sound more like making sure people had something to do or warranting the way money was spent. so no I don't like this new forum.
so, that being said (don't worry Sander), I also realize it's time to start wearing the big boy pants. I think the feedback that a large portion of the community doesn;'t like the change (all change is good as long as everything stays the same right?) has been received and it's up to Ultimaker to do something with that or not. They are doing something with it as far as I can see.. it might not be in the way some people want to.. They seem to be improving\changing the existing software instead of switching to Vbulletin.. and if that;'s the choice i can only applaud them for sticking to their guns. If they would have switched to other forum software i'm sure a lot of people would have complained that they never finished what they started.
I've put on my big boy pants, and I just deal with the facts as they are. sometimes I post stuff, sometimes I get annoyed and I don't. It's that simple. there is no point in keeping to complain about the change, it's happened and it;'s clear it'll stay this way. good for you Ultimaker for sticking to your beliefs!
so just stop giving Sander and co such a bad time. in this case, Sander is mostly the messenger. He's trying his best and the intention was never to alienate the community or drive people away. there was a vision involved and it just hasn't come to fruition.
I think it;'s a pretty big step to start saying sales will be impacted because of this.. They have changed their business model and now it's different then before.
For me, this section of the forum has kinda turned into this:
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people complaining and reminiscing about how everything was better in the olden days yet they keep coming back. It's some kind of a torture.. to have to watch the forum right?
so don't take this the wrong way.. but I think the time of complaining should just stop... Ultimaker won't change the software and complaining about it only brings a wave of negativity.
Sure, there are still decisions I don't like.. like the store going away.. but I make my point, Sander and co listen, they give their vision and view, and i might agree or disagree. then the subject is done and I move on..
lately, I've noticed that the complaining is more of a reason to not go here than the actual software is.. I just get a bad taste about it i suppose.
so that;'s the last I'll say about it. and for the other people that keep complaining.. i feel you guys.. but the time of complaining has to stop. If you don;'t want to come here anymore that's sad.. but I can live with that.. but to keep coming back and bringing back the same arguments just doesn't make this better.
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also, the original head had a 25W heater to allow a secondary heater to be added. as we all know dual extrusion never happened so that additional power was never needed.
an additional advantage that has not been mentioned enough is that a larger heater will get you better quality.
to keep a nozzle at a certain temperature, let's say 250 degrees, you don't just set a dial on a heater. basically, the nozzle is on or off so the PT100 measures the temperature, and you see the temperature fluctuating. there is a complex algorithm that decides when to turn on the heater and for how long. you can use in certain situation things like alternation to fire up the heater in small increments but unsure if Ultimaker uses it.
anyhow, if you have a small heater, you need to take larger dips into account. in reality, setting the temperature to 250 will realistically lead to temperatures between 248 and 252. you;'ll undershoot and overshoot the temperature target. the more plastic you feed it the harde the heater has to work to get it to that temperature and the higher your temperature differences will be.
with a larger heater and a 35 watt heater is about 37 percent more powerfull, you have to apply heat for shorted periods to get to your target temperature, getting a more consistent temperature in your nozzle, leading to a nicer print. some filaments are highly impacted by temperature flucttuations. fluctuations that will be a lot less with a bigger heater.
so in short, a bigger heater is better for your print quality and your printer. but do you need it? no. do you want it? yes
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...But when I changed the heater to a 35W version (you need this cause the olsson block is bigger) and replaced the temp sensor (with an original UM version though, the 3Dsolex version I got was more than 20C° wrong)......
Sorry for being dramatic, like many other people here I was merely assuming some of the information given on this forum was correct, I've clearly broken more than one item now, including both the sensor and heater and god knows what else, im gonna wait for a few spare parts and try to repair it, if not then I may need some kind of help, but Ill give it my best. I need a little break as all this has done my head in, and I just dont understand the issue with my shroud wether the thermal properties of the copper are cooling the heatblock too much or what, it never fit as expected to begin with and the exposed back may also be affecting it. Eitherway i need a bit of a time out.
Hi, totally understand the frustration..
honestly, i think the issue is with the fact that your fan shroud is touching the block..
I also totally understand how this can be very frustrating if you';ve never done this before.. your location is listed as london.. is that in the london area or london itself?
i'm in london quite a bit and i'd happily help you out
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ok back on topic then.. I'm absolutely impressed with s3d.. worth every penny.
the learning curve is steep.. but once you kinda understand it.. it makes sense..
i get better quality and control as compared to Cura. especially some of the weird blobs on the sides are gone. yeah, i'm a fan.
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Again : walls\layers not touching : advanced question
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
please note that your UM2+ will need about 10 degrees of a higher temp than your UM2.
I would recommend print the same thing but now with 10 to even 15 degrees higher on the UM2+. this should give you an identical result.
also, there seems to be a bit of play on the inside of the feeder with the arm that supports the feeder bearing. this can cause the guide bearing to shift, pushing the filament towards the non-curled portion of the feeder. opening up the feeder, cleaning it and rebuilding it should solve this but first I would reocmmend adding 10 to1 5 degrees to the temp.