korneel

All; Thanks to Kunststofshop.nl who will be selling the ESun Cleaning Filament, I received 2 badges of 100 gram of cleaning Filament from ESun today. i just wanted to share my experience with the cleaning filament in my UM2. a little bit of background; i do the Atomic Pull every now and then, using Taulman Nylon. The method I use is to slowly insert it at 240 degrees and keep applying subtle pressure untill only nylon flows out of the nozzle. i then keep applying subtle pressure and turn the temperature back to approx 30 degrees. as soon as the temperature reaches 170 degrees no more material will flow out of the nozzle. the reason the keep applying subtle pressure while it cools down is to make sure the nylon completely fills the head.. once the temp reaches 170 no more material comes out and you can leave the material alone until it reaches around 30 degrees. leave it for at least 2 minutes then verify the nylon is attached firmly inside the head by pulling it up. the head should move up with the nylon. heat up the nozzle again and start subtle pulling around 130 degrees. at around 140 the nylon should come free and should be cone shaped. keep repeating this process untill the nylon comes out completely clean. since the last time i performed the atomic method i have printed a complete spool of Ultimaker PLA Blue and about 100 grams of Ultimaker Ultimate Red. I applyed the cleaning filament before starting the print with Ultimaker PLA Black. it has been printing for about a week and a half at 215 degrees so there should be residu in the head. now, the review; the filament comes in a vacuum sealed bag on a bundle of about 100 grams. the material feels a little bit like Nylon, but dryer and has a rough texture to use the cleaning filament you should take about 10 cm and let this flow through the hot-end. me being my usual unbeliever i made sure i used more (mistake!) and took about 15 cm. you then insert this in the bowden tube and insert the rest of your actual material in the back. theory is that you should now start extruding after heating up the hot-end. this is where it all went wrong. first of all, i took way too much cleaning filament. i took about 18 to 20 cm, and i am only using a standard 0.4mm nozzle. the filament gets sticky when pushing through (although not sticking to the PTFE coupler!) and is hard to push through. this meant that, even with a customer feeder, after about 5 cm of cleaning filament, my feeder started chewing into the much softer PLA. and i still have 15 cm to go.. this is where the cursing started and the refusal to take more pictures of this failure. at this point, i took out the bowden tube, inserted a short piece of bowden tube i use for the atomic pull, and heated the hot-end to about 240 degrees. i then started to feed filament by hand, slowly pushing out cleaning filament. if you take a good look at the cleaning filament, you can see it taking out piece of black material, even though i only printed in blue and red; (note, the completely black portion that you see is the black from the PLA filament i used to push the cleaning filament through.) to me, this looked like the cleaning filament took out quite a bit of debris. but the proof is in the pudding, so i performed an atomic pull immediately after this. the results are this: although my cold pull did take some material from the sides of the hot-end, the front (the cone shaped tip) is perfectly clean. not a single spec of burned material. next time i would certainly only use 5 to 8 cm's of the cleaning filament, and just push it through manually or very slowly before other material. it does seem to work perfectly! the cleaning filament is going to retail for about 15 euros per 100 grams, seeing as you would only use 2 grams approx per cleaning session, this should give you 50 cleaning sessions for 15 euros.. that seems like a great deal. in my opinion, everyone should definately at least try this.. my recommended use: after you printed material and need to change materials, take about 5 cm of the cleaning filament. take a short piece of bowden tube and insert this in your hot-end head. heat the hot-end to the temp of the to be printed material and slowly push the cleaning filament in. take a small piece of your to be printed material and use that to push the cleaning filament through. examine the cleaning filament for small black specks, showing it worked. after your cleaning filament is out and only your to be printed material comes out, pull out the material. reassemble the bowden tube and start printing. K.

i bought one too... but it's for sale now (never used, see the for sale section ) i understand the merits of the plate, but after cleaning and finding the green tesla stick, i have such great experiences with the heated bed that there is nothing to improve.. sure i can skip the heating but i've now perfected my heated bed printing so why bother.. maybe i;'m lazy..

ik bedoelde eigenlijk wat test printjes dus een keer een kleine print maken voordat je met de grote begint.. met nieuw filament van een nieuw merk meteen een 30 uren print maken gaat vaak niet goed..

ik zal ook in het nederlands reageren test altijd het filament heel goed voor je er mee gaat printen, er is veel verschil in kwaliteit tussen filamenten, en sommige filamenten raken heel snel vast in de UM2.. ook kun je het beste het filament "bijpunten" voor je hem doorvoert in de bowden tube zodat hij makkelijk de PTFE coupler ingaat.

ah, that is because i did not read the topic title!

i would say the two mayor improvements to the forum (and how did this thread escalate to forum feedback?) would be: a badge/stamp system that would read something like "Ultimaker approved solution", giving people a direction between answers that are good\right and answers that might not be the best idea the other improvement would be a better compatible forum.. the quote\multiquote and image addition system is horrible. it works in certain browser, but not in others.. then it breaks at random.. fun.

fijn dat je in ieder geval wel de nozzle hebt gered..

just did a thread in the Dutch portion, let me translate; After a month of 3 of continuous printing with my UM 2 I've had great and not-so great moments. below an overview of improvements and experiences with those improvements. I did a larger post in the dutch section, but would like everyone to benefit. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-cable-chain first of all the cable chain. i printed these in ABS and XT. would not print in PLA because of the very close proximity to the heated plate. i have not heard of people getting their cable in a twist, but better safe than sorry. also makes the machine look a lot better fan mounts; i tried 2 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-mount-dual--2 I used the V06. worked great, printed in ABS. also printed in XT, no heat shield and no heat issues. very easy replaceable, good shroud. did take it out since it cooled my nozzle more than my print. changed to this mount; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fan-base-um2 like a charm.. directly cools the print, see more sharpness in prints. the disadvantage of this fan shroud is that you need to move the fans off if you want to take it off the head which is incredibly annoying. otherwise it's a great fan shroud. printed in ABS and XT, perfect. i did not use the iron sheet in it and no warping issues. rail system: must have; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-rail-system-u2rs it dramatically improves the machine. -it eases acces to the feeder allowing you to easily change material and diagnose any issues with thye feeder (not like that would ever happen..... ) -it allows for better ventilation for the feeder motor -it allows for easy replacement of material -best thing yet : it allows for a more natural flow of the material, dramatically improving feeder performance. you can get the extrusion test running perfectly with the rail system and the stock feeder printed in PLA and XT perfectly. would not print in ABS because of the large surfaces and warping cable clip for the railsystem https://www.youmagine.com/designs/cableclip-for-ultimaker2-rails-system-u2rs printed in both XT as well as PLA. manages the annoying cable on the back for the feeder motor https://www.youmagine.com/designs/feeder-for-ultimaker-2-rail-system Roberts Feeder with UltiArjan improvements. perfect for the rail system. printed this in all materials then switched to PLA on advise of Robert and Ultiarjan to make sure i did not get ABS particles into the feeder. best feeder ever. easily did the extrusion test up to 10 mm/sec with PLA and even on 210 degrees. no more underextrusion, easy material swap, perfect. also makes the atomic method way easier, yeah, overall this was a great design and decision to add. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/compact-low-friction-spool-holder you need this spool holder to add your spools to the rail system. you need two of these. printed in PLA and XT, worked perfect. OctoPrint: so i got very annoyed by the movement of the SD card between my PC and my Ultimaker. annoyed me a lot. so i started trying OctoPrint! i installed on a Raspberry Pi, and very happy with the results https://www.youmagine.com/designs/raspberry-and-raspicam-mount-for-ultimaker-2 you can attach it to your UM2 with this addon. I also added the raspberry cam and am in the process of adding the touch screen. you basically go to your PC, just upload the gcode, and you can easily print. you can use the cam to make timelapses and watch progress. some small things such as a very small amount of material gets extruded in the beginnen and no Z bed homing after the print, making you editting the gcode by hand and fixing that. in short, those are the add-ons you need in my opinion.. they will make a good printer great..

samples and 2 complete 100 gram spools should be coming in on monday. at that time i will have just finished printing almost a complete spool of PLA without atomic pull... will throw about 15cm of it before the next spool and see what happens.. i am extremely excited..

nee. wat Cura in principe doet is de wall thickness delen door nozzle size. dus een 0.9mm wall met een 0.4 mm nozzle zorgt voor 2 passes en 0.1 MM aan ruimte tussen de passes waardoor een wall uit elkaar kan vallen. een 0.8mm wall met een 0.4mm nozzle zorgt voor een mooie aangesloten wall met 2 passes een 0.8mm wall met een 0.8mm nozzle zorgt voor een enkele pass...

well, the reviews are pretty good and yes, it does confirm everything you hear and see about the makerbots.. have been playing a little bit with a few of them (we have like 10 of them in our company's maker garage) but never able to actually print something since they were always broken.. they look great, their featureset is awesome, the software is awesome, they have a great support staff, everything there is makes this the most awesome printer ever... except the smart extruder. so it doesn't actually print. the idea is also great with the smart extruder to make it very easily servicable but it's just too bad that it doesn't print making it worthless.

Ik moet eerlijk zeggen dat ik de uitleg van Joris bij vlagen wat warrig vond, maar volgens mij is dit de essentie van wat hij mee wilde geven; hij gaf aan dat, bij printen, de essentie ligt rondom de druk waarmee je het materiaal aanvoert, de temperatuur van het materiaal zelf en de shoulder waarmee je het materiaal spreid. een combinatie van die 3 zorgt uiteindelijk voor je lijn. als je de nozzle vergroot naar bijvoorbeeld 0.6 heb je minder temperatuur nodig, want er is minder druk om het materiaal door te voeren. je moet nog wel steeds een shoulder hebben om het materiaal daadwerkelijk aan te duwen\spreiden. heb je geen shoulder om het nozzle gaat heen zitten, dan krult het meteen omhoog. zijn argument waarom de nozzle size eigenlijk onzin was in Cura was omdat niet je nozzle de breedte van je lijnen bepaald, maar je shoulder breedte. je nozzle size zal echter wel in verhouding moeten staan tot je shoulder breedte. hoe dit nu precies gemeten werd werd meer afgedaan als experimenteren en een gevoel erbij.

all; because i bought a plate before discovering the green dutch TESA sticks, I have no need for the plate anymore.. it's the UM2 version 2 months old, never used.. see http://www.printinz.com/229mm-x-257mm-printer-plate-um2/ for more information. i have never tried anything with it, but i've heard great things about it.. i paid 69 euros including shipping, yours for 50 euros ex. shipping.

die temp sensor heb ik ook wel eens vast gehad, maar dat was redeijk vlot te verhelpen met een waterpomptang en heel zachtjes draaien..

the only risk you have ais that you might burn PLA in your nozzle causing clogging. 250 degrees will work well as long as there is enough material flow. you are probably printing at 50mm/s or faster with 100 percent material flow right? should you be printing at 30mm/s i'm almost sure it'll burn in the head and cause clogging.

it's not weird to have a single side suffer from this. the original feeder is just fine, but under certain circumstances the bowden tube gets in a turn that is too tight for the stock feeder. i would recommend replacing it with a custom feeder and trying it again.

er is altijd ruimte zat @ Sjoerd, wat is er dan met je printkop?

i agree with hreedijk.. i have noticed that, although the temperature advise is 240, it would definately go lower when printing slowly, perhaps around 235 as suggested and turn on the fans. i actually have my fans on at 100 percent. you have to be carefull though that the stock feeder for the UM2 might not always provide reliable results with XT..

Thank you i replied in the english thread

so i'm going to quote quite the old topic; (crosspost from http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8263-wanneer-is-een-pfte-element-nu-versleten/ ) Teflon element 1: as you can see, i also have the indentation as scirbbled below the third picture there is also some XT stuck in it. here you can see the indentation as well and here as well even worse. the thing is, none of these have been used over 250 hours. i have also not printed with these over 240 degrees... so the question is, are they actually deformed or should i still be able to use them? i believe they are still 3MM inside, but is there something i can do to keep using them? perhaps drill them out at 3.2 mm? or can i just use them as is? or is it better to cut my losses?

ik denk dat de motor uit de behuizing halen al ontzettend veel heeft geholpen.. ik ga even de feeder herprinten in PLA..

hmm interessant.. allereerst, ontzettend bedankt voor je werk aan de verbeteringen! zowel de feeder als het railsysteem maken van de UM2 echt een beter apparaat. chapau! snap je punt over de particles.. heb dat niet ervaren moet ik eerlijk zeggen maar ook niet over nagedacht. denk je dat PLA sterk genoeg is? de feeder motor wordt stiekem wel erg heet en ook de arm zet er behoorlijk wat druk op.. dan zou ik eerder een metalen sleeve in de ingang zetten.. ik ga daar eens even naar kijken.. ik heb zelf gehad dat hij op een gegeven moment begon te "krullen".. was er bang voor dat hij ergens tussen ging komen bij langere prints waarbij de gehele hoogte van de printer gebruikt werd.. meer in de categorie better safe than sorry.. en t ziet er goed uit

ik PM je even...

i would think that any limitations on printing that would be more around the material then the machine. ABS is notorious for warping. does the material have to be ABS?

tuurlijk; zie hieronder; dit is mijn Ultimaker 2, met kastje waarin ik alle filamenten bewaar en al het gereedschap; en dit is een print van zo'n rail systeem wat ik vandaag heb gedaan. in doorzichtig XT, spul waar het vaak toch wat moeilijker mee is om zowel een goede flow te krijgen als het vermijden van "haren". dit is geprint op 240 (minimale temp), 50mm/s en 0.1MM, 100 procent flow. zelfs de wat tricky delen zien er superstrak uit. dit is allemaal zonder nabewerking, dus geen schuren ofzo.