gpb01

Ciao, che materiale stampi, a che temperatura e quale è la temperatura del piatto ? Guglielmo

... update: Simulate a filament lock, detected by "filament monitor" ... immediate reaction of the new firmware that has put the printer in pause Restart printing without any problem (it's just necessary to remember to push the "reset" button on "filament monitor" to reset it after a lock). All is working fine ... Guglielmo P.S.: I have also increased the timeout on the "filament monitor" from 8 sec. to 15 sec. ... better to avoid fake alarms on some small parts

@tinkergnome: OK, so ... 1. Designed a very simple bracket to fix the filament monitor on the back of UM2 (... yes I'm NOT a designer so ... if somebody do better ... is welcome ). You can find HERE 2. Used the original cable and connector. Just rearranged the pin order on the connector, side UM2 (on the top first row of J23 you have, from left to right, pin 5, 3, 1 which are PC7, +5V, GND, which are, on filament monitor, red, white, black). See 1st image. 3. Fixed the "filament monitor bracket + filament monitor" on the back of UM2 using the two holes already present to fix the Z-axis microswitch. See 2nd and 3rd image. 4. Uploaded the new firmware 5. Fixing the "filament monitor" on the back of Z-axis microswitch probably change the zero position of the bed (you have to totally remove the old screw and to insert the new ones) so ... did "Advanced -> Adjust buildplate" to recalibrate. 6. Crossed the fingers :Dand started a long print ... I will let you know Guglielmo

@tinkergnome: Thanks a lot for the quick implementation ! ... as soon as possible (I have to fix the mechanics and to prepare a 6 pin cable to connect to J23) I will try and I will let you know Guglielmo P.S.: I never print through USB so ... is ok

Ouch ... You right ... I'm stupid If you are still afraid by the "rotary encoder" friction and if you use filament spool, is likely more easy to optically detect spool movement Guglielmo

@NBroenner : Can you read from HERE on ? Guglielmo

You have to move just a rotary encoder ... not so strong   Is quite easy to remove the ball bearing mounted on the encoder and to make a straight connection between the encoder and the stepper-motor axis, fixing all in front of the feeder Guglielmo

Yes, I bought one from ToyBuilderLabs (... good electronics, very low quality "plastic/mechanical" structure ... fortunately all is public available, so ... I printed a new, much better quality, "mechanical" structure with ColorFabb PLA/PHA ). And YES, is quite expensive. Now I'm studying a way to attach it below the feeder ... ... but I'm not a good 3D CAD designer ... :D:D   Better to refer to Pighixxx's cards ... look HERE Yes, PC7 is the physical pin 60 of the ATmega2560 which corresponds, in the mapping of Arduino, to D30/A15. PD7 is the physical pin 50 corresponding to D38 (... or Timer0 external clock input). Both PC7 and PD7 are available on the large connector of "Arduino Mega 2560" so ... compatible with the UMO If you need other info on the hardware, please ask Guglielmo

@tinkergnome: Hi tinkergnome, I would like to ask you if, in a next release, you can implement a little new feature using some spare I/O which are available on the UM2 board (I don't know on UMO and UMO+). If you look on the board docs, you will find that there is a spare connector, called J23, defined "EXT I/O", which brings GND, +5V, PC7 and PD7 I/O pins. My request is : can you read one of these free pins (PC7 or PD7) and, if it goes low you pause the printer until it go back high (... maybe you can define it INPUT_PULLUP) ? I explain the reason for my request ... ... I do not know if you saw THIS product, best described HERE ... quite easy to attach under the UM2 feeder and very useful to detect the blocking of the filament caused by various problems. By implementing my proposal, it would be possible to have the same functioning that is shown in the linked pages and that you can see running on MakerBot (... see youtube movies) Thanks in advance, Guglielmo

With PLA, on UM2, if you bed is leveled properly, just set the bed temperature to 55/60°, use Brim and ... ... no problem at all ! Guglielmo

Yes, in the firmware sources ... HERE Mmmm ... I think that the baud rate is 250000 baud !!! Guglielmo

Sorry ... just read you answer ... my notes are for UM2 board ... I don't know the UMO board ... :( Guglielmo

If you look on the first page of the schematic, you will find the USB (J3) connected to the ATmega16U2 which convert from USB to serial. The serial I/O is on the pin 8 and 9 (PD2 and PD3) where you can find 2 resistors, R13 and R14 and you have the two signal named PE0 and PE1. Now, if you look on the top left, you have the ATmega2560 (U1 - the main MCU), and PE0, PE1 are connected to pin 2 and 3. So ... if you really want to risk ... you can : 1. disable the ATmega16U2 MCU setting LOW (connect to GND) the pin RESET (pin 24, TP8 or pin 5 on J2) 2. connect the TX from the XBEE (if the XBEE work at 3.3V you MUST insert a level translator) to the RX pin of the ATmega2560 (pin 2 - PE0) 3. connect the RX from the XBEE (if the XBEE work at 3.3V you MUST insert a level translator) to the TX of the ATmega2560 (pin 3 - PE1) 4. cross the fingers and hope that work Disclaimer : I have not tried this thing and it could also damage your card. Do at your own risk !!! Guglielmo

I don't think that this can work ... but you can still try ... the USB port is not a simple "serial connection" ... the USB that you have on the UM2 main board and the USB that you have on the Xbee are USB "device", both made to connect to an USB "host" (e.g. the USB port on the PC). The differences between a USB host and device is that the "USB host" initiates all communication on the bus, the "USB device" only responds when asked by the host. For Details see the specs on usb.org. Guglielmo

+1 ... Yes, is quite easy to create different "Processes" for different height with different "settings". You can also select different "Process" for different "parts" ... e.g. see tutorial Guglielmo

... no Kapton tape here ... I used a small piece (17mm x 35mm) of a ... "beer can", glued with Loctite on the the bottom where the hot-end is. Ah ... printed with simple ESUN PLA and ... no problems also after many hours print Guglielmo

Have you already seen THIS ? I'm using v2 Guglielmo

The same here ... ... also if I'm moving more and more to Simplify3D Cura 15.04.02 is currently the last stable version. 15.09.xx is in beta. Guglielmo P.S.: With THIS firmware on my UM2 P.P.S.: Thanks nallath, beta version updated

@futur3gentleman: Just finished a print of about 5 hours with "Colorfabb PLA/PHA White" on my Ultimaker 2 ... Coming from other filaments, was not initially easy to understand how to use, but now these are my settings: T° = 220° , Bed = 60° , Flow = 110% , Fan = 50% , Speed = 40 mm/sec (first layer = 15 mm/sec) , Layer = 0.1 , Nozzle = 0.4 , Initial layer = 0.3 BUT ... I'm using the "Olsson Block" and this "Fan Base UM2", so ... probably some parameters should be adjusted for your UM 2 Hope this help ... Guglielmo

YES, a lot ... very clear, thanks Guglielmo

@tinkergnome: Sorry for my "ignorance", but ... please can you clarify "when" and "for what" I can use the "preheat menu" ? Thanks in advance, Guglielmo P.S.: anyway, I have installed the latest version on my ultimaker 2 and ... ... works like a charm

I suppose Cure chooses the firmware relying on the printer that you have declared, so ... if you have declared the Ultimaker 2, Cura install the firwmare for the Ultimaker 2. Please note that the firmware uploding function DON'T go on github to take the last release, but install the firmware present inside the version of Cura you are using. After installing the firmware, you can go into the printer Advanced menu and you can check the version installed. Guglielmo

Back to this very old post (Jan 2015) and just to clarify ... ... the firmware is NOT stored into the EEPROM, the firmware is stored into the Flash memory of the ATmega2560 (... the MCU used on the Arduino Mega) and you can reprogram the Flash at least 10'000 times, after you can have problems. The EEPROM is the memory (... still inside the ATmega2560) where you normally store "parameters" or other values you want to permanently save from the program (... so, can be read/written/erased from inside the program) and can be reprogrammed at least 100'000 times. Hope this help Guglielmo

Just start Cura and ... 15.04.xx : top menu "Machine" -> "Install default firmware" 15.06.xx : top menu "Extensions" -> "Firmware" -> "Update Firmware" Guglielmo

Totally agree with you, I always used the silica gel to keep the filaments well dry, so ... was really a surprise ... Guglielmo