visu-al

That's how it should look after printed with an Ultimaker 3 :-P

Hallo Peter Ich weiss nicht ob das so gut geht. Ich würde es so versuchen (mit BRIM): Der untere Bereich wird bestimmt keine schöne Oberfläche haben aber so könnte man es ohne Support drucken und diesen unteren Bereich etwas nachschleifen und das ganze im Acetondampf verschönern.. Sonst würd ich das Teil längs in zwei Hälften drucken evt. noch Support im Innenbereich wenn dieser nicht schön sein muss, direkt auf die Glasplatte gedruckt erhälst du auch eine ideale glatte Klebefäche.

@fuh That seems a very smart idea that i like: only printed parts, fast printed, no more modifications needed. convinced me ..gonna try this option How to mount on the UM2, or is it just hanging?

Ja, ich kann nicht mit allen runter auf 190°C aber trotzdem fast. Fazit ich konnte alle Filamente ausser das elektrisch Leitende zufriedenstellend drucken. Der Unterschied am Filament der bei dir den Skip auslöst ist vorhanden, würde aber wenn alles stimmt nicht zu solchen gravierenden Änderungen führen. Ich meine damit, es ist vielleicht das eine oder andere Filament nicht so konstant 2.85mm sondern mal mehr und wenn du da dann schon einen Wiederstand durch eine Engstelle hast hängt das fest, falls das Filament nicht wirklich über 3mm ist sollte das die Maschine schaffen bei 210°C und 30mm/s sonst stimmt was nicht. Ich hatte zum Beispiel das Problem, dass es eine Druckstelle an der Bowden im Head hatte und wenn ich die lange Schraube nahe der Nozzle gelöst habe konnte ich auf einmal 400% schneller Drucken! Auch ABS und PET drucke ich auf das Glas, bei grossen ABS teilen muss ich dazu aber auf 110°C heizen. Das Leveling muss aber perfekt sein und beim wiederholten heizen und abkühlen ist der Abstand schnell mal ein wenig verzogen und nur wenige hundertstel Millimeter daneben klappts nicht mehr so gut mit der Haftung. Solange ich aber immer die selben Temperaturen benutze muss ich selten nachkorrigieren.. Ach ja das Glas muss natürlich sauber und fettfrei sein. XT ist doch auch PET oder nicht?

@Norbert Ich habe den Verdacht, dass bei dir noch andere Probleme vorliegen, denn mit meinen UM2's kann ich mit fast allen PLA Filamenten (habe viele durchprobiert) teilweise auch mit 190°C drucken ohne dass ich Probleme mit Schichthaftung hätte und man kann viel schönere Retractions machen. Ich benutze nur den Feeder von Robert und kann bis jetzt alle Filament-Spulen bis zum Schluss benutzen, muss einfach die Geschwindigkeit etwas reduzieren wenn die Spule an den letzten kringeln ist. Du hast denke ich irgendwo einen zusätzlichen Wiederstand entweder in der Bowden-Tube oder am PTFE-Teil, kannst du das Filament ohne spürbaren Wiederstand von Hand durch die Bowden zur Nozzle und zurück schieben? Ich drucke übrigens immer auf das Original-Glas mit gutem Leveling hab ich immer super Haftung bei 60°C Bett und total glatte lückenlose Oberflächen und ich habe keinen Aufwand ausser mit einem Fasertuch über die Glasplatte wischen vor dem Druck. Gruss VISUAL

Ok at my home computer it also works to download and i can see the problem now but can't tell you any other solution then the one you did and to do own support like gr5 said.

@jweaver i did but it says failed to download everytime are we speaking about pre generated support-structure (as i was thinking) or internal cura generated support?

i cannot download the model, tryed several times.. well, i tought the base would probably be thicker, as this is the usual way to make support stable but not of to much material Maybe Kisslicer thickening the part instead of ignoring when to small..? @ Ultimaker - Wouldn't that be a good new button in cura to make too small stuff just the smallest amount possible instead of ignoring it?

Hello Christian I think your support structure is less then 0.42mm thick. Cura ignores everythings thinner then around that. Visu-al

@illuminarti nicely explained expect that i tought that you also need to disable the solid top and bottom infill as well? i remember printing 0% infill vase and always forgot to disable top solid infill and then my printer bridget the top of my vase haha wich is annoying (usualy one should check layer view in cura but in that time i was more noobish then today^^)

i print faster (35mm/s) and low temp (200°C) no retraction (0.0mm) 0.1 layerheight no infill (0%) and it looks nice till now ->expect at the bottom layers were bottom infill made infill produced the artifacts! so it must be infill related? edit: further on it reveals no artifacts still but the usual little zscars that would disappear more with low speed but they are as i would expec them so what else should i test?

i sliced a new one (0.1lh/0.9shell/0infill) and try to disable retraction and see how it goes.. edit: i didn't want to disable retraction on your gcode because it passed over the gap and my new slice with zero infill has no pass like that, i could see in cura

i can see very unnecessary rectractions going on and weird movements during the print and it generates some "artefacts" similar to yours i guess this gcode will not be nicely printed by any printer...? so it can be cura in my eyes now i see slicing the thing in cura that it always makes a lot of retractions, why does combing not work in this way? it even slides over the central gap without trying to combing sometimes , is this maybe because its too small? My CURA version is14.09.1RC2 you can maybe also try with z-hop when retracting this can help sometimes when cooling is not fast enough

i would print 3 of them in a row because it is to small and also i would use a layerheigt of 0.1 if there is no specific reason to go smaller. i hope this helps

i dont know exactly why, but i print your gcode and it makes a mess its melting all of it. it is to small, no time to cool try print at least 3 of them at the same time edit: after cooling fan start it looks better but still not enough time i guess

I can just repeat LABERN : What material? PLA? Temp? Speed? Layer Height? the result depends on many many variables like even who produced the filament? every aspect needs to be harmonized on each printer differently reading your stuff makes me think you don't know much about all possible problems and solving possibilities or do you ? if everything should work properly by settings then the printer has a problem and you need to first find out what it is and then how to solve it..

bottop/top thickness 0.4 mm on a layerheight of 0.1 is really not enough ! to make a nice top layer you need at least 5-7 times the layerheight, yours is only 4 times wich is just not enough! 0.1mm X 7 = 0.7mm bottom/top thickness you would need to make it solid top filled when using full power fan..

you can also upload at something like dropbox.com and post the link after make the files public.. i prefer a company that has administration problems but the product works instead of the opposite :wink: by the way 3D printers are hard to operate in general if you go and pay 30000$ for a printer you can expect better working products but you can then still not expect that it just works without any problems..

ok i think i found another resistance when i made the roberts V2 feeder i cutted a piece of the bowden as usual but i forgot to drill a transition in to the cutted bowden were it enters the feeder and when i try to put in filament by hand it has a lot resistance.. i will improve that next monday and post the results. i have a feeling that then i will be able to run normal prints and extrusion test up to 15mm3/s like on my older UM2

i can imagine it's just a part of the problem because i can't make up a constant relationship just that it prints better now and if i make it tight i have less extrusion but overall it's still not as good as my older UM2

i printed the 0.2 testcube again -> SUCCESS it looks nearly identical to my older "good" UM2 ! then i tried 0.1 testcube @ 100mm/s -> SUCCESS

@robert cannot be the only factor cause i was able to print a part 10 times faster then before without any critical underextrusion at all. i will do more tests tomorrow to determine some more exact speed limit relation

@gr5 thank you very much @mevander i did too but did you also try seperate tensions on each screw? Here is my video starting with underextrusion: And here is a picture showing it as well:

..putting the bowden and filament together in the printhead is very hard to do.. im gonna film the effect of unscrew those screws now but need to wait cause the first layer of my big surface doesn't tell the whole story^^

..but i remember re-inserting the bowden was not as easy as it is on my older UM2!