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francfalco

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Everything posted by francfalco

  1. Thanks all, I'm mainly a PLA based (lower temp filament user) so very rarely use high temps. My UM2 standard extruder motor but OB upgrade prints all PLA based materials well (except full-flex - can't get that to print but semi-flex prints fine). I'll stick with what i have unless i go for the 2+ upgrade or even the UM3 if Santa received my wish list? ;-)
  2. Hi forum, Has anyone on here tried this upgrade kit - did a quick search here for threads but nothing obvious? "]http://e3d-online.com/Ultimaker-Extrusion-Upgrade-Kit[/url] If so, is it any good and potentially, would it be an alternative to the UM2+ upgrade kit? Just interested as its a cheaper upgrade option Cheers all Franc
  3. Version 1.0

    926 downloads

    Artist Olafur Eliasson and engineer Frederik Ottesen developed Little Sun Original to bring clean, affordable light to the 1.1 billion people worldwide living without electricity in ‘off-grid’ areas. I have two of these lamps that my children often use at night to read with. Unfortunately, after a slightly too enthusiastic game, one of the lamps cases got damaged. The great design of these lamps means its very easy to take apart and looking at the structure, I decided to utilise my 3D modelling skills and recreate the design suitable for 3D printing. I did email Little Sun marketing dept with the hope of getting the digital 3D files, but a very nice response declined my request. A couple of iterations later and the first fully functional version came off my printer. I reused the electronics, lens and on/off cover. Fitted all to my 3D printable version and now my daughter has a very fetching green Little Sun!
  4. Hi all, Just tried update the firmware on my UM2 via CURA 2.1.2 on the mac platform. Initially gave me the 'updating firmware, may take some time' progress bar. Left it processing while i went out but on return no progress. I restarted the software, reconnected cables and restarted the UM2, but now no version of CURA connects to the printer and switching on the printer, only the fan spins - no other front panel lights or build area lights come on?? I'm stumped and my printer is without life?? Any mac savvy users out there can help please Cheers Franc
  5. Agree, they may be rubbish but at $14 i think i'll take a chance! I'll let you know what i think cheers
  6. Hi all, Just checking with you knowledgeable folk if anyone can vouch for these nozzles being any good - they seem really cheap?? 9 nozzles for $14!! http://goo.gl/1MmSNW Was just about to order a set but thought 'hold on' lets check! Opinions if i may. Cheers Franc
  7. Version 1.0

    1,860 downloads

    Had my head scanned at http://www.imakr.com/en/ Printed in Woodfill and Copperfill using a 0.8 nozzle. Quick polish and experiment with which slide offset looks the most weird!
  8. Version 1.0

    2,205 downloads

    This was an experiment in achieving a 'real' wood effect using ColorFabb Woodfill filament. ColorFabb filament is great stuff, but it didn't give me the 'real' wood surface finish i was looking for. So i designed and modelled this simple little chest, spending a lot of time creating the wood grain texture onto all surfaces and faux Dovetail joints. And to complete, i just had to add some hinges and a latch. Printed in ColourFabb Woodfill http://colorfabb.com/woodfill-fine and Faberdashery Robot Siver PLA http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/products-page/print-materials/robot-silver/ The file sizes are quite large - sorry about that, but the wood texture surface effect needed a high model poly-count to achieve the detail. I may see if can optimise those. Enjoy!
  9. Thanks, looks a bit involved. But i did manage to get the temp sensor and heater wires out from my old block, so i reckon if i can do that without destroying the printer, i can do this! Just out of interest, if i'm using the larger (0.8mm) OB nozzle with high flow, what are the signs that the 25W heater isn't upto the task?
  10. So whilst not critical, it is advisable to upgrade to the 35W heater if running the OB - yes? Had my OB in for a few months now and its been working great with my standard 25W version, but the quicker/stronger heat-up does sound a good upgrade, especially if using larger nozzles? Just checking if its an easy upgrade and where the video tutorial is - there must be one i'm sure
  11. Version 1.0

    1,460 downloads

    spiral egg and shotglass stand
  12. It is - i was doubling my chances of getting some feedback! I understand the problem and that its not too critical, but i'm still not exactly sure how to fix it? I do some more research cheers
  13. Hi SandervG, Thanks for the update. Have you any guidance/how to (video/blogs) on what i need to actually do to improve alignment of the spacer or align pulley please? cheers
  14. Hi and a Happy New Year to all! So I've been reading on a couple of resent threads about some UM2 having the issue of spacers/bearings being slightly out of align and causing belts to grind? I'd never heard of that before but looking at my machine, I've noticed some black specks on my stepper motor case as above (I always assumed it was normal dust?), but it may be this grinding belt issue?. I havent noticed any effect in print quality but just wondering if: 1. Is it something that I should fix? 2. How can it be fixed? 3. What causes it? Over to you guys. Cheers Franc
  15. Hi and a Happy New Year to all! So I've been reading on a couple of resent threads about some UM2 having the issue of spacers/bearings being slightly out of align and causing belts to grind? I'd never heard of that before but looking at my machine, I've noticed some black specks on my stepper motor case as above (I always assumed it was normal dust?), but it may be this grinding belt issue?. I havent noticed any effect in print quality but just wondering if: 1. Is it something that I should fix? 2. How can it be fixed? 3. What causes it? Over to you guys. Cheers Franc
  16. Just fitted the Olsson block to my UM2. I wish i had read this thread before fitting - that temp sensor was a tricky bugger to get out of the old block, but oil, pliers and tapping the block away whilst holding onto the metal sensor finally got it free. I also found the Olson block was really hard to screw on, certainly isn't cross threaded, just really stiff in threading on? But it has all gone back together and i have to admit that being able to change nozzles in a few minutes and the ability to experiment with different sized nozzles and materials is great! I've put the original fans shroud back on but i see that people have been experimenting with various upgraded/redesigned shrouds, specifically for the Olsson upgrade - just wondering if there is a general agreement on if i should change shroud and if so, to which one? Also, been testing the 0.25 nozzle - i do see a finer result but i can't quite manage to get a really clean finish - slight stringing spoils the print. Obviously, retraction and temp will be main parameters to tweak, but again, just wondering if anyone has found the 'sweet-spot' settings for the smaller nozzle? I will continue playing - but i must say, great design and product Mr Olsson, well done and love the torque wrench too! cheers Franc
  17. Great news for new users but where can existing owners buy the Olsson block? Any freebies going for loyal UM2 owners?
  18. Never crossed my mind to record normal speed and then speed up in post production! I too use 10s frames, agree not great but it does the job, but i may try the full record - i have a new iPhone with lots of space, so that might be an option now. I'm also trying to incorporate a camera Pan into my time lapses, wonder if there is an easy way to do that?
  19. Hi guys, The only 2 printers i have access to are UM2 and MB, so i'm sure the clamp part won't fit anything else? Unfortunately, my 3d modelling software is C4D and no STEP file export available. Sorry
  20. On Youmagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um-2-iphone-time-lapse-mount
  21. Do you love a 3d print time-lapse video, but can't be bothered with set up? My latest 3d printable design solves that and with 2 camera mounts as well! Sliding frame mount and ball/socket articulated arms with snap rings to keep those joints tight. Move your camera into any shooting angle you need. I've created phone mounts for my iphone 5 and 6. Coming to a download library soon! Cheers
  22. Hi Viralata, Sorry not to respond sooner - i've been away... If you mean how did i get the texture onto the surface of the earth (soil)? It was actually most complex part to model! The basic shape is the inner area of the outer pot. I then created a 'disc' of textured geometry using a displacement map on a cube to create a positive 'texture'. i then used a boolean to 'cut' that texture disc into the top of the 'soil'. Does that make sense? It doesn't sound too clear to me and i did it!
  23. Also, check your Bowden tubes are nice and clear and filament runs through them without any obvious resistance. But just as importantly, i would also give your printer a bit of a vacuum and clean - won't help the under extrusion, but it'll look much better in the Thread shots!
  24. Nice review, but nothing us users didn't know already, but great for a potential new user. Although, I still question the possibility to print at the often suggested high speeds. He mentioned that out-the-box, it'll print fine to 120mm/s - in my experience i would disagree with that claim for most print applications, but he says he did? I think any longterm user of a UM2 will admit that claimed 300mm/s printing speeds are not realistic at all - possible, but you'll end up with printer bouncing off the table and a mess of a print! The Bowden does allow for lighter head and in theory faster print head speeds, but in practice the Bowden is also the 'Achilles heel' of the system and limiteds normal print speed - Capably of 300mm/s but usable at 50mm/s. I would love to see a object printed at 300mm/s - anyone? I may try it...
  25. A Loft window bracket i created ages ago and still does the job everyday: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:405401
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