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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. So I can bypass it by adding a .2 Z layer overlap. Not sure why this has changed but I don't like it....
  2. Here are a few of the projects I've worked on using the Ultimaker 2+ There are 3 select fire blasters, and the pump blaster is a pistol grip conversion. The OLED mount with rail on the back are printed The battery cover in the front grip is a printed part along with some internal pieces Stock extension and top rail are printed Masterkey is printed Stock extension and handle fill with knobs are printed Pump grip and main grip along with trigger are printed
  3. I'm having some issues with getting my prints to adhere to the raft ever since the latest firmware update. It appears that the software is putting a 3 layer Z-gap between the raft and the part even though I have my z-gap set to 0. The parts are peeling off of the raft now.
  4. Now if I could only find someone who can play decent.....
  5. Here's the resulting guitar. still have to finish up the model of the trimmer... Took some nicer pictures today. That figure really pops at the right angles!
  6. Is there anything in there for different nozzle sizes? I haven't been able to find it and I have a larger opening in my nozzle. (sounds like a bit of a personal problem there..)
  7. Some clear shellac on the back to seal it up. Now to fill the pores!!
  8. Just have to finish putting the hardware in it I in the model
  9. Second coat was a bit darker than I envisioned but I like it. Should have made the green dye a bit thinner.
  10. I'm re-working a guitar that I built a couple of years ago. I have glue'd a really nice piece of flame maple veneer to it using a vacuum bag that I made from scrap at our engineered films division and I have put binding on it in order to hide that it is a veneer top and to protect the edge. I decided to print some of the tooling for doing this. I made 2 dremel attachments. One of them for cutting the binding channel on the edge of the guitar and another for trimming some ABS strips into thin pieces for additional decorative strips on the edge of the binding (called purfing). I have not ta
  11. It is probably not strong enough to handle anything but the easiest materials to cut. If you wanted to cut some visualization type prototypes from foam block that might work.
  12. I've been using the airhockey puck slurry method for a while now with good success. I have a bulb eyedropper that I use to drop some acetone on the plate, and then swirl it around with an ABS puck. Easy and it works well.
  13. I made a bunch of small clamps for laminating the sides on a guitar case.
  14. the bearings for the carriage would have to have the splined shafts on one side as well. They would transfer through a gear set within the carriage. Maybe too much added complexity and it might be simpler to go with a small stepper on the print head with a gear reduction.
  15. My thought is more that the rods that the print head slides on would be splined shafts and they would rotate to drive an extruder mounted in the print head. You don't have a seperate component going into the print head to provide rotary motion. It is part of the bearing/rod system. The thomson version is probably a lot more spendy, but there are others out there that might not be to bad. It would add to the cost but it would put the extruder in the head without the added mass of a motor. You could put one on the X and one on the Y and rotate them independently in the event of dual extrusi
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