Jump to content

chrisw

Member
  • Content Count

    161
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by chrisw


  1. Overall Cura is fantastic, so TYVM Daid! Below is an idea I've had while watching prints.

    Using PETG I've noticed ooze flow continues, even during and after retractions have occurred. Retractions do slow down the flow of material, so it's good to use them. But if the head stays parked while waiting for the retracting to happen then small blobs of material form beneath the nozzle. Later those blobs cause more issues when the head runs back over them.

    If it's possible to have retractions occur while the head is moving to its next target, I think this could improve the printing process with certain ooze-prone materials.


  2. Old Thread, but same problem here. After printing PETG with 90° bed and 230° nozzle temperature, i had some spots of broken glas. Also i heard some silent cracking noise during the parts cooling down.

    I've done around 500 hours worth of printing with PETG so far, and no cracked glass yet (finger crossed). Maybe the 90C bed temp could be a cause of cracks. 75C has worked well for me. Popping noises are heard for 20 minutes or more after printing ends, but it's only the part separating from the glass


  3. @SandervG   Thanks!   The still image makes it difficult to see the origin of these fireworks, but even crazier than jumping during a pyro show, our parachutists are launching them from the formation.    

    A video is the best way to show what's happening. The last person you see jumping out is wearing pyro brackets on both legs.   Fireworks ignite at about 1:10 into the clip:

     

    I work with a team called Canopy Formation Specialitsts.    We train jumpers to do demonstration jumps around the world.

    One year ago I bought my first printer (UM2) with the sole intention of using it to make test models for some prototype parts.  The end goal was injection molding.  At the time I didn't realize that fully functional, durable parts could really be manufactured at home.

    • Like 10

  4. In previous years our parachute team would use tape for fastening lights to our helmets.  The tape job needed to be redone each time we had a night jump.   It was a time consuming job and it was messy.

    This year I had the tools necessary to make snag-proof light mounts that could be quickly installed or removed.   My two UM2's worked hard for a few days straight to make 32 of these mounts.   Modelling was done in OnShape, PETG material from Intservo was used, with a .6 nozzle installed on an Olsson Block, and of course the |Robert| feeder was installed on both machines

    os01.thumb.jpg.0fa1f37dfc6160aec424fc284044fcf3.jpg

    os02.thumb.jpg.463b1126bb2662d33b1f0ba38835a073.jpg

    q01.thumb.jpg.aa6cfb6107a85160b196101ed6573712.jpg

    q02.thumb.jpg.e4df4af8360d96b6e4f2d5c6b4099e37.jpg

    q03.thumb.jpg.c9868eb3b31b7e25d71d1740b9ca41cd.jpg

    os01.thumb.jpg.0fa1f37dfc6160aec424fc284044fcf3.jpg

    os02.thumb.jpg.463b1126bb2662d33b1f0ba38835a073.jpg

    q01.thumb.jpg.aa6cfb6107a85160b196101ed6573712.jpg

    q02.thumb.jpg.e4df4af8360d96b6e4f2d5c6b4099e37.jpg

    q03.thumb.jpg.c9868eb3b31b7e25d71d1740b9ca41cd.jpg

    • Like 4

  5. Sorry for the long delay, but thank you everyone for the replies.   I'm convinced the linear bearings were an issue.  FBRC8 was great and shipped out replacements fast.  

    [media=8839]This is a sample of the banding I was seeing[/media]

    Then I dismantled the rods and linear bearings and discovered a good bit of static friction needed to be overcome before the beaings would slide down the rods.  Once the bearings were rolling they'd keep rolling pretty well, but getting them started took too much pressure I thought.   So I soaked the bearings in parts-cleaning solution, let them dry completeley, bathed them in sewing machine oil, packed them with grease by filling the cylinders with grease and forcing the rods in from each side of the cylinder, and cleaned off the excess.   Now only a little pressure was needed to start the bearings rolling.  

    I reassembled the machine and printed some new parts, and the layers were much more even.  I don't have any "after" shots with me and I'm overseas, but I'll shoot some when I get home in a couple weeks.

    Maybe grease is a bad choice long term because it may gum up and cause sticking again, but for short term things did improve.   I'll install the new bearings when I get home and see how they perform.

    Chris


  6. Since day 1, my second UM2 machine has had a sound when the bed is raised or lowered. It sounds just like there's sand all over the Z screw (However I tried cleaning the screw and haven't found any grit). If I raise the bed using the UM2 controls, then turn off the power, the bed will sink a little immediately, then it'll hang. If I push down on the bed it'll continue going down, but it makes the faint grinding noises at a few times during the descent.

    I believe these areas of drag are causing banding in all prints from this machine. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Any ideas for resolving it? So far I've cleaned and greased the screw and both rods, but the noise remains.


  7. Update after months of use: MadeSolid's product works great, however it's pricey. So I was always looking for an equal peformer for a lower price. Well I found it. Esun3d makes some PETG that prints even better for me than MadeSolid's. Esun's is a bit more flexible after the print is completed (maybe more glycol in the mix?). That works for my projects, and Esun's is less than half the price of MadeSolid's. Score! Also the diameter of Esun's has been more consistent, always below 3.0mm, ususally right around 2.95 - 2.97. So it works better in a stock UM2 bowden tube.

    Chris


  8.  

    3) An audible alarm function that can be sounded using G-code for times such as when the system Paused... so I can wake up and do whatever needs to be done,  and at end of a print so I know to start the next one.  Maybe this is doable somehow on the UM2 already?

     

    M300 generates a 1 second tone on my UMO.

     

    I tried putting this code into the print that is currently running on my UM2, but no sound was emitted yet. I put these lines in a few places.. one copy at the very beginning of the print, and 3 more at pause positions that should happen over the next few hours. We'll see if any of them sound

    M300 S300 P1500

    M300 S600 P1500

    Maybe a simple M300 with no parameters would have been a better initial attempt


  9. 1) For the three bed level adjuster screws: A limiter to show where the end of tightening should be. This matters most for the back screw. If someone, like me when I first bought my UM2, is unaware of the heated bed's wire connection being sandwiched in between the bed and the supporting plate, the screw can be tightened enough to put pressure on that connection. Immediate effects: It makes the bed not level. Long term effects: it can cause the soldered joints to fail (that's what I think caused mine to break... I needed to re-solder those connections a few weeks ago).

    btw: I'm not in favor of having an auto-leveling bed, if it's anything like the Lulzbot mini that stayed in my house for 3 days last week before I returned it. That bed would go through its slow leveling process at the start of every print. I only need to level my UM2 manually once every few weeks. After a few weeks that's gotta be hours saved compared to using an auto level script.

    2) LCD screen and control switch relocated to the top front of the frame, It makes sense for ease of access, and it should be fairly simple

    3) An audible alarm function that can be sounded using G-code for times such as when the system Paused... so I can wake up and do whatever needs to be done, and at end of a print so I know to start the next one. Maybe this is doable somehow on the UM2 already?

    4) Easily changeable nozzles, such as Olsson block style.

    5) A feeder like |Robert|'s. Easily disengaged, open for cleaning without need for dis-assembly, and not known for grinding.

    All these requests are fairly minor btw. The UM2 is pretty awesome as-is. I tried a Lulzbot mini last week because I need a second printer, and after reading so many glowing reviews of the mini, I figured it would be a good backup. Overall it was well designed and easy to operate, but wow the print quality at medium to high speeds was poor. I got spoiled by my UM2's accuracy, So I shipped the mini back and ordered another UM2.

    • Like 4

  10. How did you get the metal insert properly aligned on the bed? Pre-printing some thin "orientation lines", place the insert and start the actual print?

     

    Yes, exactly. I made supports that print on the glass. It has a few lines and then small cylinders that poke up through the screw holes to align the holes pause the print. The center round shape is one of the supports. It's wide below the plate, then continues up through a small hole and becomes part of the structure above that plate, basically tacking the plate in place.


  11. For about 5 years I've been manufacturing gloves that have cameras attached to them, specifically designed for use in skydiving. We keep the design as snag-proof as possible to avoid interference with the parachute system. Before I bought my UM2 I was limited to only supporting one type of camera, the GoPro (I was using injection molds, and the tooling was far too expensive for me to offer much variety).

    With my UM2 though, these days I'm only limited by my ability to design and time available to do it. A few camera mounts that I've released over the last several weeks:

    20150525_175648.thumb.jpg.77fadf7124132b5e76789219d63ee650.jpg

    20150724_114852.thumb.jpg.374a8bc4f08b1cc466b81c38927fd9af.jpg

    20150817_022717.thumb.jpg.4a7aa6da7b9c0326d8aa1ab066de3426.jpg

    There was quite a steep learning curve for me to be able to make these parts reliably. Each model has at least one nut captured inside, and a SS plate embedded about 4mm off the floor to reinforce the mount holes. I was sure I must've broken my UM2 a couple times when the nozzle crashed into the steel plate because it was at a slightly wrong height. The print was toast each time that happened, but the printer didn't seem to care. It's still working great.

    20150525_173851.thumb.jpg.de5467647244f814314eff85510ae276.jpg

    Skydiving is a harsh environment, so I figured these count as evidence of real-world use for printed goods.

    Chris

    20150525_175648.thumb.jpg.77fadf7124132b5e76789219d63ee650.jpg

    20150724_114852.thumb.jpg.374a8bc4f08b1cc466b81c38927fd9af.jpg

    20150817_022717.thumb.jpg.4a7aa6da7b9c0326d8aa1ab066de3426.jpg

    20150525_173851.thumb.jpg.de5467647244f814314eff85510ae276.jpg

    • Like 1

  12. Thanks for the tips! I've been playing around with various settings and code changes all day long. A few times it seemed like I had it working: The system would pause, the head would move to a corner and sit/wait. The long extrude would occur (either in place, or as the head was moving across the X or Y axis, depending on which line I'd written for that particular attempt). Then the head would rush to its resume position.. at the right spot in the print, head primed, all ready to go. I was all excited because I had this issue resolved, I was sure...

    Then a retraction would occur right before the printer starts writing. So no filament is extruded as the head dances around over its target.

    There is no line in the gcode telling the system to make that last retraction. It seems like I'm fighting the firmware. So I even tried using M207 and 208 to set the retract length to 0 near the end, before the rogue retract occurs, then manually set it back to 8 as the writing begins. That didn't work either.

    I haven't used your idea of running printer/pronterface yet. That's next on my list when I have time to blow on this

    Chris


  13. This is a hard question to answer as what can work for me make confusing for you.

    It all comes down to what type of design you want to do.

    Agreed. You'll get a whole lot of answers here about which is best. It's like asking what's the best ice cream flavor.

    I bounced around looking for something that suited my needs and my budget, and ended up using Onshape for most everything. It's fast, smooth, and doesn't crash like Alibre :-)

    Chris


  14. Ok, this thread got me thinking, because I have a design that needs some clean overhangs, and I dread removing supports after something has been printed.  So the Kapton tape idea seemed interesting, but then I was thinking why not print my own tape out of the same material that I'm using for the project?  The filament will bond to it, and it should blend in.   Here is an example of using a thin sheet and a small block to make clean ceilings:

    20150808_201725_resized.thumb.jpg.83d457e611e94797d1e1247983023899.jpg

    20150808_202022_resized.thumb.jpg.a0c96d346f2c35ddb134906468305229.jpg

    20150808_202831_resized.thumb.jpg.7d3723979043a17529a15d3ca67c611d.jpg

    Chris

    20150808_201725_resized.thumb.jpg.83d457e611e94797d1e1247983023899.jpg

    20150808_202022_resized.thumb.jpg.a0c96d346f2c35ddb134906468305229.jpg

    20150808_202831_resized.thumb.jpg.7d3723979043a17529a15d3ca67c611d.jpg

    • Like 2

  15. Pauseatz works great.  I'd like to modify its script in the gcode, making it extrude a lot of filament to purge the nozzle after Resume Print   is selected.  So far I've only been able to make it extrude a little extra for some reason, even though it seems like I'm telling it to extrude a lot.  I'd like it to extrude as much as you see during the standard Ultimaker2 start of a print.

    Here's  a sample gcode script written by Pauseatz:

    ;LAYER:15
    ;TYPE:CUSTOM
    M83
    G1 E-5.000000 F6000
    G1 X200.000000 Y40.000000 F9000
    G1 Z15 F300
    M84 E0
    M0
    G1 E5.000000 F6000
    

    G1 E5.000000 F6000 <

    G1 E-5.000000 F6000
    G1 Z5.000000 F300
    G1 X183.018000 Y131.416000 F9000
    G1 E5.000000 F6000
    G1 F9000
    M82
    G0 F9000 X183.018 Y131.416 Z4.000
    ;TYPE:WALL-INNER

    What am I missing here?

    Chris


  16. I love the turntable, and that whole setup. Nice machine! Does the heavy spool spin easily enough to feed without a problem?

    I noticed Madesolid started offering 5 lb spools of a couple colors of PETG. Their prices are high though, so I haven't tried one yet.

    • Like 1

  17. Did Davide come here for help?

    ..maybe I missed it during my holiday.

     

    The sad part for me is reading about the grinding of a divot into the filament... a frustration that I dealt with 8 monthd ago with my new UM2. After many hours of reading here in this forum, I found Robert's solution, and it's been smooth sailing since. Without that feeder replacement, I think I would have been frustrated and maybe my UM2 wouldn't have anywhere near the 1000 hrs of use. If it's a universal understanding that the stock feeder causes many problems... why has UM not spent a few bucks to buy the design from Robert, make injection molds, shoot some parts, and install those into all new UM2 products?

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!