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aggertroll

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Everything posted by aggertroll

  1. Wenn ich mich recht erinnere ist der Druck über USB in der neuesten Version Cura nicht vorgesehen? Ich benutze Cura V 15.4.3, da geht das problemlos. Und nein, eine spezielle Treiber-Sw ist (beim Mac) nicht nötig. In den Machine settings in Cura steht die Baud-Rate per default auf Auto - das ist alles.
  2. Here are my thoughts, maybe something is helpfull. The best accessory I ever printed for my UMO with heated bed upgrade is the YAZA (yet another z-stage adjuster) here. It lets me adjust the nozzle gap very accurately. But first: I make sure that the springs are compressed about half way. If they are too tight - not good. If they are too loose - not good. Half way is good. Then I level the bed, back center first, then front. Usually twice, first to get close, 2nd time to get really close. Makes no difference whether you use paper or credit card, as long as the gap is the same in all three positions. And then I use the yaza to set the gap overall. (Actually I bought a fairly simple analog depth gauge on ebay, printed a bracket so it attaches to the printhead with neodyme magnets. Have a custom gcode for the levelling routine. Takes 2 minutes. But thats luxury.) I adjust / tune my printbed maybe after 20 or so prints. Also I use a cheap long very sharp knife, gently pry up one corner of the print and pop it off. Doesnt mess up the bed levelling.
  3. Ich drucke seit einem Jahr nur per USB von meinem Mac und habe noch nie ein Problem gehabt. Wenn Drucker und Mac per USB verbunden sind, leuchtet bei mir die LED im Druckkopf - auch wenn der Drucker ausgeschaltet ist. (Zum Drucken schalte ich den natürlich ein.) Wie oben erwähnt ändert sich der "Save to SD" button bei USB Verbindung in einen "Print per USB" button. Wenn ich in Cura auf "Print" gehe, klickt irgendetwas im Drucker und es dauert 2-3 Sekunden, dann steht die Verbindung. Im Druckerfenster werden die Tasten aktiv, und los gehts.
  4. On my ipad the "open in new tab" function now works. Thanks!
  5. I would definitely be interested! I have my UMO (heated bed in the mail (I hope)) illuminated by 3 IKEA Dioder LED strips. They are on a completely separate power supply since I don't know enough about electronics to use options on the board. Solid advice on hooking them up to the board would be highly appreciated - pwm is secondary. Thanks.
  6. have the same problem in different browsers on an ipad. what i do as a workaround: hold your finger until the context menu opens. now instead of lifting your finger, first move a bit up or down. it will scroll the page and if you now lift your finger, nothing loads unintentionally. Thanks avogra - it works!
  7. I browse forums almost exclusively on my ipad and use the "open in new tab" a lot. Lets me close the tab after reading and be back where I started from with one click and without reload. I find I can not do that on this forum. No matter what I do, following a link will open that page in the same tab. Is there a setting somewhere that allows me to use the "open in new tab" function without changing the page in the original tab? (I hope you can figure out what I'm trying to describe.)
  8. Check if you have the spiralize option set in expert settings. If I remember correctly spiralize will not allow infill. Since you mention that it does not fill top you might also have that option unchecked in expert settings. Did you by chance print a vase before?
  9. Hi SandervG, Thanks for your response - and yes, this is helpful. But I don't think me tuning my settings will have a great effect on the forum's bounce rate.
  10. I was astounded and frustrated to see the wiki basically dead. And I believe you/we are forfitting a tremendous opportunity. I have lost count how many times I found the link to the 3dverkstan troubleshooting page. Its not a wiki, but its close, and it is gold. If I am struggling with a problem, I can search through dozens of threads hoping to find an answer. That can be fun in itself, but it can also be frustrating because discussions get off track, and more often than not such threads end inconclusive. Have you tried an atomic pull? - Silence. Give me a decent wiki where frequent issues are outlined in a concise manner by the community. For discussion and debate I love a forum; as a knowledge base, I really appreciate a wiki. And given the complexity (and art) of 3d printing, a good wiki would be a tremendous asset. My 2c.
  11. I find that I use the Ultimaker forum differently from other forums, and the main reason is the community lead page, i.e. https://ultimaker.com/en/community. It shows me my selection of subforums and (usually) the last three active threads. (Sometimes it shows more but I don't know when and why.) So I usually check the unread posts of threads I am interested in - and leave. So essentially anything beyond those three threads shown on that page has drifted off my radar screen. In other forums I go to the subforum - i.e. Modifications and Hacks - and I get the usual page with 20 or so threads. I spend a lot more time browsing these threads, sometimes going back weeks and months looking for interesting topic. What I'm saying is: While the community lead page certainly is convenient, it severely limits what's being presented. It encourages to come by, take a quick look at what's new, and leave. And I believe this is exactly what you are seeing in your bounce rate. So if this makes any sense - I would get rid of this page. Give me an overview page showing the main subjects (The Art of Printing) with their subforums (Tips and Tricks), along with the number of threads and posts in each. Enough. Now, when I enter that subforum, I get a page's worth of the latest threads. And if I have more to choose from, I tend to start browsing - and stay longer. As far as showing related topics is concerned: An interesting idea, but - like others have said - only if it works. My experience is that these topics will be selected because of similar headlines - but there is absolutely no garantee that this topic offers any valuable information. Which brings me to the topic of wiki - but I'll post that in another thread. My 2c.
  12. If you designed those pieces in a CAD program you can - on the orange piece with the two breaks and five holes - close the breaks and holes with a minimal thickness layer. That way the printer has a uniform surface to print. If you downloaded those pieces then I don't know if you can edit those files.
  13. Can someone help me with a Python question please? Right now I changed an existing button in a Pronterfan UI to send some gcode commands after I cancel a print, i.e. click cancel in the Ui, then click the changed button. The cancel part of the code says: if id == 140: # cancel self.frame._printerConnection.cancelPrint() Can I somehow attach the gcode commands to this cancel command so that they are triggered on cancel? I always want those commands to be sent when I cancel a print.
  14. Yes, now I know. I kept looking at my changes searching for the error there. A few hours of frustration, but I learned something in return.
  15. I am no expert, but I have a UMO and here is what I would do: - change the 3d files to include one top layer without holes. That way your printer will create a smooth top layer. Pop open the holes manually. (Read this somewhere here on the forum, works great.) - To fine tune the top surface quality, play with flow (on your test piece.) Reduce flow, and the lines seperate; increase flow, they first touch and then overlap. Find the sweet spot. Varies from one filament to another. I currently print at 108% flow. - For the edges, check your fill overlap in expert settings. 30% is a good start. Also take a real close look in layer view; sometimes it helps to rotate the object to get a better infill/shell transition. Hope this helps.
  16. Solved. First lesson learned: Don't edit code with a text editor. Not even with saving as txt. Anytime I tried to edit the script the interface would not load. Got a python editor. Works. Picked a nice interface script, re-appropriated an existing button to execute my abort routine. So if you are looking for a way to - lower the platform, - retract, - return to home, - switch off heater, bed and fan - and say 'Aborted' on the little screen at the click of a button when you cancel/abort a print, this is one way: Pick one of the Pronterfan print interfaces in the thread mentioned in the first post, open it with one of the many script editors available for free and do some tweaking. Its fun, actually.
  17. On my mac or ipad: When I click on a picture to enlarge, I get a spinning circle (endless). I can click on "show original" and that works. Would be great to click on a picture and seean enlarged picture. Edit: Just realized this applies to older (2014) posts. Was looking at a current post and it worked nicely.
  18. I figgered it out. I was using a text editor and even though I saved as text-only it messed up the code. Downloaded a code editor and all is fine. Changed Carsten's code to assure that all head movement commands are relative, similar for extrude/retract, and reappropriated one button to give me my move to safety. Talk about a nice print interface ... Now: How to show current layer - like 43/576 - for instance in the upper right corner of the tempgraph?
  19. I just used your interface on my Ultimaker Original and the x,y,z movements don't work the way they are supposed to. Could it be that the printer is receiving absolute commands? If I send a move command it will move once, but pretty unpredictable. The second time on the same command nothing happens. I really don't know enough about it to figure it out. Trying a different interface now.
  20. Yeah, these are really, really nice. Thank you. I am currently testing Carsten's version and it looks great. Now, can one of you masters implement a little button for me? I have tried but failed - no surprise, it was my first try. I would like to have a button that "safely" lifts the head after an abort and returns it to xy home - just like citystars mentioned earlier. I tried to include the following command and also add a button to the panel - no luck: (The print window wouldn't open any more) self.tool2_safe = createButton(panel, „Safe“, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Z15 E-5; M104 S0; M140 S0; G28 X0 Y0; G90; M117 Aborted") # Sends g-code: ## relative positioning ## move z-stage down 15mm and retract 5mm ## switch off nozzle heater ## switch off bed heater ## home x and y ## absolute positioning ## display „Aborted“ For me it would be fine to have it instead of "Get endstops" for instance. Would be really nice - but the interface as is is great! Thanks!
  21. Sorry, I wanted to know: How do I print a g-code file? I usually input stl files and Cura does the rest. I just tried it - load a g-code file and print that. Duh.
  22. I am not sure how to "execute a certain g-code". Load model, but instead of loading an stl-file, load a g-code, and then just print?
  23. I run my UMO with Cura 15.04.3 (Mac) via USB and everything works great. But: When I hit "Abort print", buffer empties and then the printer simply stops. Right now I disable steppers, lower Z stage by hand, return print head to front left by hand. (Not sure if it switches off nozzle heater; filament oozes out for a while and I had the nozzle clogged on the next print run once or twice) I would much rather that "Abort" would - retract standard end-of-print amount - switch off nozzle heater - lower bed 15mm - return print head to 0,0 I found this great thread describing customization of the Pronterface print UI. Can I implement the abort routine described above using this customization? (I don't know a thing about Python and programming, but I begin to understand what these scripts do.) Any advice / help would be highly appreciated.
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