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    Ultimaker Original
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aggertroll's Achievements



  1. I ordered replacement via amazon today, will take apart the hotend over the weekend. Thanks for the link.
  2. Thank you geert and peggy for your feedback. OK, I will check the teflon coupler first (hoping I will not damage anything in the process). The 140% feedrate has me baffled, too. I checked the extruder steps and did a few atomic pulls - everything looks good. Temperatures are steady - I am using the Pronterface plugin that graphs the temperatures. (Btw: UMO refers to the Ulitmaker Original - really happy with it.) I remember seeing different couplers offered. Any advice on which to get? - I'm in Europe. Happy printing.
  3. Hi all, I am printing with PLA and am trying to improve the surface quality of the first layer laid down on glass. My printer is a UMO with the glass bed upgrade; I slice using Cura 15.4.3. I found 196 degrees / 55 degrees at about 50 cm/sec giving good results. I had to increase the feedrate to 140% with the PLA filament I currently use to assure solid parts. At 100% the lines tended to seperate. For adhesion I use a very fine layer of diluted wood glue - works great. To improve first layer quality I increased the bottom layer line width to 130% and slowed down the bottom layer speed to 25 mm/sec. Bed is levelled to give a nicely squished first layer. I increased the infill overlap somewhat - I believe 30% (am not at my printer right now). The photo shows the bottom of a part I just printed. (I am not concerned about the diagonal travel tracks - I might try to do something about them later.) The surface is generally ok, but some areas are not - i.e. at the lower left or to the bottom right of the center hole. It looks to me like it is printing well going towards the edge but underextrudes as it moves away from the edge. The areas immediately surrounding the small holes left and bottom look real nice. Any tips on what I can do to get a more uniform, solid bottom surface? Thanks - Thomas
  4. I had the same thing happen as described in the OP and it turned out I had a lot of friction in the bowden tube. Over time, debris from the feeder had gotten into the tube. Took out the tube, cleaned it with some thick wool, added a bit of graphite and everything was good again. You might just want to inspect your bowden tube whether you can see tiny pieces of filament near the feeder end. If you can, open the feeder, pull out the filament at about 90* and check friction by moving the filament by hand.
  5. Looks like it is called Octoclient for Octoprint: https://itunes.apple.com/de/app/octoclient-for-octoprint/id1260531874?mt=8 I need to try out Octoprint - and also the client.
  6. The 4 main axles are fixed, as you say. But the 2 axles on which the printhead rides are not. These two axles need to be parallel /perpendicular to the main axles. The calibration sticks help assure this. (This has nothing to do with moving the pulley laterally against the case; it helps turning the pulley on the shaft/axle into its proper position and locking it there.)
  7. Okay vielen Dank. Ich hatte nur schon oft genug gelesen das es wahnsinnig wichtig ist, immer alles blitz blank zu haben, hatte aber selbst das Gefühl das der zweite oder dritte Druck nach der Reinigung immer viel besser funktioniert. Dann habe ich es einfach gelassen. Viele Grüße, ViviBee Das "blitzblank" ist aus meiner Sicht wichtig, wenn man einfach auf Glas druckt - was ja auch gehen kann. Dann sind zB Fettreste von Fingerabdrücken etc. ein no-go. Wenn man einmal eine gute Haft-Methode gefunden hat, kann man sich ganz auf die anderen 497 Parameter konzentrieren. Happy printing!
  8. Using periods to separate sentences greatly improves readability. And starting off a sentence with a capital letter would be an additional treat. Just my 2c. Aggertroll
  9. Das Glas lässt sich leicht mit warmem Wasser reinigen, weil der Leimfilm ja ultradünn ist. Wenn ich sehe, dass das Glas nach etlichen Drucken in der Mitte blank wird, erneuere ich die Schicht. Gereinigt habe ich das Glas erst einmal - braucht man eigentlich nicht.
  10. Zum Thema Haftung: Ich habe auch den UMO + Heatbed und nehme verdünnten Holzleim (Ponal etc.). Etwa 1 Teil Leim mit 5 - 8 Teilen Wasser verdünnen, kommt nicht genau drauf an. Das Bett dünn und gleichmässig benetzen und das Wasser verdampfen lassen, es bleibt eine ultradünne Leimschicht, das Glas sieht ganz leicht milchig aus. Ich drucke PLA auf 55* Bett und die Teile haften perfekt, auch mit geringer Grundfläche, und lassen sich nach Erkalten des Betts leicht lösen.
  11. On my iPad and iMac (Safari), the subject column of the forum topics pages has less line spacing than the columns on the right - number of replies etc. As a result, there is an increasing misalignment further down the list. Yesterday I saw for a first time that the right column with the time reference used two lines - which aggravates the misalignment. Maybe something that can be fixed.
  12. The stl export plugin is a must-have if you use sketchup for 3d print design. Get it in the extensions warehouse: https://extensions.sketchup.com/de/content/sketchup-stl While you are there, you also want to get ThomThom's Solid Inspector2. It does what the name says and repairs most errors it finds - the 2nd must-have for 3d print design. Personally, I chose Sketchup as my CAD software because it seems fairly easy to learn and there is tons of online help. Works well for me - but since I didn't invest time into Autocad et al I can't compare. Happy printing.
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