izzy

Kay's fasteners has a range of flanged button screws of various lengths, The kit was from this link the kit is now larger. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361-PIECE-A2-M3-FLANGE-BUTTON-HEADS-KIT-NYLOC-FULL-NUTS-ALLEN-SCREW-SS-08-/190967551339?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c768d956b The bearing were from the UK bearing shop, in Kent, I went for a 300mm lazy Susan bearing, then used some decent shelving wood from home base.

Lol the 1st time you think what is going to go wrong . But with the feeder, I removed 3 of the screws rotated the feeder a little the but back a screw directly into the stepper motor without doing through the feeder then took out the remaining screw to remove the feeder. You then need to disassemble the feeder for the bearing and spring but the details are on Roberts docs for the feeder. I got a small box of assorted length screws, I'll dig out the eBay details and add them tomorrow plus a few longer lengths, the kits were cheap and contains only a few of each length so I got 3 kits, of A4 stainless screws I think less than £15.. I have now assembled it by making 4 studs from 4 long screws, 4 nuts then keep the stepper motor in place, I then have some spacer covers over the nuts, then the feeder assembly, and held by 4 more nuts that are retained in a small knurled nut cover so that I can just use my fingers. You can see it in the photo OG my mod to Roberts yoke on YouMagine.

Forgot to say a great accessory is to get a lazy Susan bearing, and make a revolving stand. I've also drilled a large hole through the center to pass the cables through, it's mounted on some rubber feet so the cables pass out under it, this allows for easy access all around the printer as you can just swivel it around, a lot easier than trying to lean over, or manouver it about.

Hi Neo, great news that you printing better the link to Roberts feeder is https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two Can be printed in PLA or XT no need for ABS, talking to some other members ABS is not really required for things and it's higher temperature greatly reduces the life span of some of the head components that can't take the higher printing temperatures for long. Catch up some time for a coffee. Izzy

If I put them on my filament spool I untangle as I load it then have no problems.

Hi Inpurnell, I've designed a few items for mounting the loose filament, either on a make up holder which can go up to very large diameters as well as a spool mount, and a little clip that uses loom bands or simular to keep you loose filamant together when stored, check out my designs on YouMagine. To store my loose filament from Faberdashery I use a 42L "Really Usefully Box" and a 19L one that holds 4 boxes of ColorFabb.

Lol, check the various screws for being tight, my rear fan was about 67dB the one from eBay should be through in the next day or so, surposidly 27dB approx. others have said its a great improvement. The edges curling of the bed could be the temperatures. Have you upgraded the firmware on The UM2 I got mine in October and was having problems untill I upgrade Cura and the firmware on xmas day then printed a lot better, my cooling fans are off for the 1st layer but the full for layer 3 (50% with the new fan housing) and I don't get warping. There are some good printing guides avaiable, I think Robert has them linked on one of his posts, search for him and you will get the links. I'll have a look for the little owl and give it a try, I like TH robot as it has inclines and bridging as well as being symmetrical so I can see the effect of each fan.

Hi Neo, It's ok to alter things, I have a few things on YouMagine inc photo of my machine with Roberts feeder, Roberts feeder is definatly the 1st thing to try, this will help with changing filament and getting good tension. I've also printed a guide for the bearing to keep the filament in line. Ive also replaced the fan housing for better air flow, ive tried a couple, they are easy to print and change, although I will look at designing my own with adjustable outflows. My back fan was also noisy and waiting for one on eBay to come through in the next few days. To start with I stayed with the basic Cura settings, but now I prefer 0.1 mm layers or steps, at 50mm/s, I usually print at 20% fill or 100% if I want a solid print. Temperature of bed and nozzle depends on the filament but for PLA I generally use 50 for the bed and 210 for the nozzle. I use the ultimaker robot as a std print as it has there Gcode and I can see the differences between filaments, I now have 1 for each filament I have except for BronzeFill. Another test print I like is the Treefrog I think from Thingiverse.

I use the ultimaker robot as a test for all materials, I used to have a problem with the left ear side but that's now better as ive changed the fan housing, now the left ear is fine just a little prob on the right ear. There may be some nuts and screws that need tightening, as well as making sure you have upgraded the firmware. I would recommend building and changing over to Roberts feeder. For PLA and XT I tend to use hairspray for the bed adhesion, I print almost everything at 0.1 or occasionally 0.06mm layers and with a speed of 50mm/s, PLA at about 210 degrees C, using either Faberdashery or ColorFabb filaments.

Never use cheap filament, it's like cheap beer. At the moment the only ones I use are Faberdashery and ColorFabb. Have had good prints from the range of filaments from these suppliers. It's good quality good tolerance and gives good results. The cheap import stuff from Amazon seems to cause a lot of problems so steer clear is my advice. The guys and girls at both Faberdashery and ColorFabb are easy to talk to both on the phone and email, and Faberdashery have always included a small free sample .

Sorry neo- origionally your name did not come up,

Hi newbie, I live down the A3 from you near Petersfield. How are your prints failing? Also 3D Hubs & Colorfaff have a workshop in London next Tuesday evening the 24th March 1900-2100 maybe some tickets still available.

I use Roberts feeder but modified the yoke to take a nut or nyloc nut the distance from the bearing centre to the back of the yoke is 35mm, https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mod-to-lrobertl-feeder-enhancement-yoke I use a longer screw and have fitted a knurled knob to make easy tension adjustments.

I thought mine were loud too, 67dB so order a replacement fan, I also ordered some plugs and crimps as well to finish the job. I also found another plug under the mesh not connected but must be ready for a future upgrade!

Hope this works, the address is hopefully https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mod-to-lrobertl-feeder-enhancement-yoke I've placed a photo in my images area but trying to get it into this post, on the pc there are icons but on the iPad there are none.

not sure how to add a photo from my ipad to this, but i use Roberts feeder although i have made a mod to the yoke, i've added a hex pocket to take a nut or nyloc nut in the back as i didn't like the screw just entering the plastic, but I have also used some long screws and cut the heads off to make long studs and then run nuts down to hold the feeder to the UM2 frame then added some spacer covers to the nuts so that Robert's feeder is about 3mm away from the back of the machine, that way there is clearance for the modified yoke, I also use the mod to the bearing so as to keep the filament from slipping of of the bearing. I have printed Colorfabb WoodFill at 0.1mm step with good results, adjusting the tension to suit but because WoodFill is soft i found it best to not have a lot of retractions in the same area or it will flatten the filament. If i cant manage to upload the photos there is a photo of my mod to the yoke showing the bits on YouMagine

Cheers Dude, I'm going to a 3Dhubs & ColorFabb workshop in a few weeks so will be interesting to see some info and some samples, ive enjoyed the WoodFill and BronzeFill, it's a shame the others arn't available in small lengths. I wish ColorFabb would sell by the 10m the same as Faberdashery so that I could get hold of some of their other PLA colours and some of their Fills.

I notice Stephan has some steel nozzles shown in his storage box, I take it for the XT-CF20 and also for some of the other ColorFabb filaments etc, that cause more wear, I'm interested in getting the nozzel upgrade set soon, but was also interested to know where the steel ones were from and what are the problems with using them, heating etc. I'm only realy interested in the 0.25 and 0.4mm sizes for good quality prints. I've not had any problems with my origional supplied one yet but planning ahead.

Glad to know what this noise was, it was intermittant, and so hard to locate, I've checked the tightness of all my motors etc, and changed the filament feeder (Roberts upgrade) screws to studs with nuts and spacers and have reduced some noises but every now and they that noise would occur and I'd rush up to my UM2 to check, glad I can relax a bit now.

Cheers mnis, the newer lower mount was the right one, I printed it in XT, but need to reprint it at a fine step, I reduced the fans down to 50% and printed both XT and PLA, both improved but may want to tweek it up to 55 or 60%. When I have time later I may try my own redesign of the fan housings.

Cheers mnis, I was looking at it on YouMagine do you happen to know the difference for the UM2 variants? My machine is from October 2014.

I've printed off Spitit's UM2 fan mount, and although it looks good I use the std Ultimaker robot to test on and with the origional supplied fan mount it's right ear printed fine the left ear was poor at the bottom edges. Now the left ear prints fine so the cooling air flow is working well, but the right ear is now printing poor on the bottom edge so it's flow isn't as effective. In both cases im printing with the fans at 100%, but have also tried at reduced rates stepping down to 25% with no improvement. Does anybody else have the same problems? I have also found that although using several layers of kapton tape and experienced the area under the heating block getting soft and melting, although I now have some heat protecting mat that I will try. I wondering whether to design my own fan mount but include a feature to be able to modify the outflow by placing gates over the opening to perhaps vary the mouth size and position. Any suggestions?

What resolution or step size did you use, zooming in you have definate layers showing and the other radi seem poor, did you try printing at higher resolutions ie 0.1mm or 0.06mm?

Agree with both ColorFabb and Faberdashery, ive only tried the PLAs in ColorFabbs sample pack, would love to get 10m samples of their other PLAs, but all of the Faberdashery filaments have printed very nicely, may see about getting on the 3DHUBs.

The quality of both ColorFabb and Faberdashery is great, GlowFill and Glow Bug Treefrogs are great fun, just put another order in today for some more Faberdashery filament, I only wish that ColorFabb would sell by the 10m length, and do a second pack of their PLA with the other colours in, perhaps in the future if enought users request 10m lengths.