cloakfiend

Some bully pups, wanted to try and be cute but kinda looks ok, but then again it looks a bit frog like or... hmm whatever im trying to chubby him up to be cuter and do a better pose rather than the usual standing. I dont know what the backs of these pups look like so its just made up! Getting the head the right size was the hardest part.

Ahh yes, thats why! the areas are flat and very thin! (these are some classic acetone problematic areas) go extra light here. its doable though! try one side at a time, or just use a tiny brush instead of a monster one like i tend to. I use tiny figure painting brushes for dangerous areas it takes longer and you need to keep on dipping the brush in acetone as it doesn't hold very much, but there is zero danger of overdoing it. but again try and go as quick as you can evenly. Also there is no point doing the bottom a lot as its flat You can just rub that over sand paper. Here is another old acetone job, obviously you can see what went wrong, but I was not being that careful, so it can be done. just a bit of practice and not overdoing it! Not all of them warped, I'd do them now with a much finer brush for control and I reckon they'd be OK!

BTW If you get dips in your model then examine what was there in the model as acetone never causes these issues on hollow printed models. Well not for me anyways. Also dont let it sit on the model too long in patches as it will cure unevenly sometimes leaving puddles with visible edges!

Indeed acetone closes gaps and makes your model watertight. But most of the problems with using acetone are experience related. Unless you play with it a lot and experiment you just wont understand the pitfalls. Many things cam ruin your print or effect it. Im still puzzled by the whitening issue which is not in my experience removable or wipeable. The only way I can remove it temporarily is with moisturiser which leads me onto cracking and splitting. As acetone deeply penetrates into your pla/pha it will contract. Maybe by nanometers maybe a lot more. Ive had a flat rectangle shrink diameter by over 4cm! Within an hour or so. This is all you really need to understand and get used to. The whitening is purely superficial even if there is loads, and can be cleaned up somewhat immideiately after the surface is not tacky. It may return it may not but as long as residue has not built up in the area thats all thats important. I havent dunked anything in ages. A brush on usually works pretty well because you are not saturating the pla, Repeated exposure makes judging acetone absorbtion more complicated and the post results more unknown. I dont get any surface issues at all but sometimes if using internal supports it can affect the drying process as in my alien model that kept collapsing in the same place...where the support was. If you print too cool your model will split. Dunking produces smoother and more consistent (surfacewise) results but comes with more risk related to the amount of time you dunk for. I found that each colour of pla needs different dunk times. This skull was the first thing I acetoned back in the day. Still looks ok to me. Cracked a bit but if you saw the video i filmed it in which was my first ever acetone related clip then youll quickly understand why. If its long and thin, put a heavy book on it while its drying out Works for me! Obviously not too heavy to the point it squashes it. The first time it warms from the acetone chill is the most important time for the state of the model.

Regarding Sculptris, it was originally a pet project by the talented artist and programmer, who got snatched up by the zbrush team as long as he could continue to develop sculptris as a free app, obviously they let him because It was the origin of what is now known as dynamesh in zbrush. the main difference that sculptris uses tris obviously as its in the name sculp'tris', while zbrush uses polys. very flexible program allowing you to do pretty much whatever you want. you can have as many symmetry points as you like as well, like 10 or whatever which makes drawing designs much faster. you also have a store button which lets you keep a direct clone of your object to revert to whenever you think you have ruined something you can just drawn it back from the clone which is very handy for tricks and other effects.

Well regarding warping a quick brush usually means you should be ok compared to a dunk. I did see a few tiny splits on this one so 192 degrees for 0.06 layer height might be pushing it 193 should be fine. I have little to no issues tegarding warping. Don't reapply but remember that long thin things need special attention when acetoning. To prevent them from warping you need enough to coat the surface but not too much to soak in which causes the warping as it evaporates out after. And when it comes to face modelling or any modelling that involves symmetry then as soon as you switch it off it just builds on whatever is there you can turn it on and off as much as you like it just means you draw symmetrically regardless of what you are drawing on.. You cant go back to pure symmetry unless you just split it in half and re mirror it to restore symmetry. You can also move the model and as long as the polygons on either side are symmetrical (which often isnt the case in dynamesh) then you can even draw in symmetry ovrer a posed model in an unsymetrical pose. I tend to switch off symmetry once im happy with the basic face. The best feature is the undo history. You can go back as far as you want if you arent happy with your progress and try something new. I start low and increase mesh count according to the amount of detail i need. This face is a nice and managable 200k polys undecimated. I rarely decimate my models due to the methods i use to make them. Which make them nice to 3d print. I'll make a new thread about how i do things in zbrush if you want? Fresh acetone is best, but used acetone also has its benefits.

and polished of course..

Heres the dude plated. I didnt even sand this one. It came out great after the acetone! Just acetone and plated.

Yeah, Its just not gonna happen with a bar of soap. no matter how gifted you are.

Hi, yes it is pressure sensitive and tilt sensitive, and has very little lag in zbrush. Photoshop is another story regarding lag....but i didnt buy it for photoshop! Like i said its not a perfect mqxhine, byt It has all the functions of a regular wacom tablet. Ill do a little video of a sculpt where you actually see my hand drawing next...hmm what to draw.? By the way you dont need a tablet computer to draw stuff like this but a wacom or any other pen input is essential. You are just not gonna be able to do this with a mouse. Well not quickly anyway!!! Tilt is irrelevant to me but pressure sensitivity is needed for variation though.

If you covered it in glue and rolled it in sand im sure it would look like coral. It makes me wanna have a go. That would be a real pain to plate though! Plating and cavities are very tricky! Im trying to take a step back from worrying about mistakes and small errors and even big ones. Its great im much more relaxed! And as long as i know better for the next time. Paid work is different of course. I feel I need to do something epic....your spaceships look massive.

I like the look of the giro infill! looks perfect for an aquarium or something!! a house for fishes, Id rinse it in acetone if its pla might help? might not though.

And...7 hours later printed. The nose wasnt even melted! Thats printing dutch orange at 192, seems to be a sweet spot for me.

Just an old cintique companion 2, (now called wacom mobile studio) and zbrush, and some imagination....and a lot of playing around. Thats why i bought the cintique companion 2. Its ideal for zbrush. I can just sit on my sofa watching tv and sculpt away for hours without the feeling that ive been sat infront if a computer (its not a perfect machine by any means!!!!)! It was a real game changer for me though. Its has buttons on it which makes it so special. I could not do the same on an ipad pro or surface pro as they dont have phisical buttons. My hand is permanetly on those buttons for instant control, ctrl alt shift space and 2 more programable buttons are essential. Its good enough for me to mess around on thats for sure. My other hand would be on the buttons on the left if it wasnt holding the camera. I pretty much only use this for zbrush and surfing the web. The good thing about doing things myself in zbrush is that i know my mesh will be perfect for 3d printing with no missed welds or any weird geometry like free downloads!!

For the curious heres how I 'draw' these, was about 5 hours. ping ponged at different angles and an edit between days.

true. I bet he made a lot of people very happy without even knowing! in the meantime i've been repeating my nonsense from yesterday. I was fiddling around with my 'quick' sculpt. and only now i realise im going in circles, and now ive ended up on an old version, because all my new ones looked weird, its annoying. i've filmed me making this from a sphere as usual. but ive lost the history now so cant go back. im just gonna print this rough version and see how it looks.... ....I just remembered the very first thing i printed that i made was a sphere as i couldn't sculpt back then, and it didn't look good, but i felt it was possible....somehow, thats what got me so interested 4 years ago...

I agree, I'm sure @flowalistik spent some time on those low ploy models getting them right just to have them used and abused by all. I wonder if he has even profited from them?? I'll just have to assume if I release anything someone out there is going to horde it along with everything else they can get there hands on....can you sue if someone uses your stuff in an ad?

I have no issues with others printing them, but not making money off them. lol. I'm in it for the beauty and pleasure of coming back to a printer with something nice from my brain forged on it. not someone else making it and then selling it to someone else. I remember the feeling of wanting to print something cool when i first got the um2 but struggled for free stuff. now i dont care. i downloaded a bunch of stuff to print with support, but after looking at the models in cura they are all crappy and not designed for printing, and have weird flipped geometry mixed with non welded verts and all sorts of nonsense. back to making things myself.

Agree! For me i just want to create beautiful or functional things or beautiful functional things. If people appreciate them all the better. Ill probably release a lot of my stuff as im not fussed at all about it and id rather people enjoyed it as much as i do rather than remaining as files on my machine until i die....a bit morbid lol. I just finished an old man quick sculpt after a few hours, but it was surreal as i went through the undo history and i had basically come up with the form after like 20mins but spent the next 3 hours essentially redrawing the same thing just at a progressively lower angle? Very weird. Not sure if thats a sign of illness or something??? Ill post the vid later but it looks like i animated him moving his head down.....how strange. Or it just highlights my indecisiveness?

I would ideally like someone else to deal with all that. Im making a cat for someone at the moment. Im not really bothered if someone scans and copies it as it will never be as good as the original in terms of quality. But it might irritate me if they do a really poor job of it!? I have very little technical stuff but i did come up with some very handy modular equipment for my plating which makes setting things up so much easier, but seeing as no one has seen them yet ill worry about that later if i release them.

I don't believe in brazen mass production and selling of other peoples work, as in the case of the unhappy face 3d print lady who had that guy basically taking her items like the dragon and stuff from thingverse and just selling it on his ebay account which appears to finally be shut down. Its people who just ignore any form of copyright at all I hate. I remember someone selling Ultimaker clones and not even thinking they are doing anything wrong when they actually use an ultimaker with logo and all to advertise their clones??? Some people are just stupid and and some people pretend to be stupid to try and be treated like those who are genuinely stupid, and live on unscathed to keep on attempting new illegal schemes with impunity. A lot of devious people on this planet all after as many ducats they can get. People also alter fonts slightly in their logos to avoid paying....google and facebook are just a few companies that did this I think. Its not only small players doing this sort of thing!

Scanning is ok, but you can always tell its been scanned unless some work has gone into it. Some of my face/body scans are as low as 20-30% scan and 70-80% creative reconstruction as i call it. I personally dont need engineering acurate parts so a scanner would be pointless to me as I would have to fix the scan after anyway. A base to work on is very helpful. On the copyright thing, I always wandered if you could sell your own made stuff from movies with impunity. I have a friend who makes cosplay items like clothing and such and he says he is always getting told to remove items for copyright reasons. I wonder if its just the name. Could you sell a darth vader outfit as 'futuristic black armour outfit'? Lol. ....and sculpting is easy to learn, but like 3d printing, its addictive when you gain experience!! I need to go to rehab....

I only learnt to sculpt because of the same reasons, not enough of the models i wanted available to download or for free

Yes 75cm is big! would look good in the garden though! I want to do one about 40cm and put it on my mantle piece, but I'm doing a lot of nude sculpts at the moment, learning how to sculpt the whole body in fantasy comic style and real life so it need to be tasteful but still cool enough to look at and enjoy. ( I still have a lot to learn, I hate doing toes, arms and thighs at the moment, and breasts are also difficult to make them look normal/believable looking. Squishing of the skin is nice to look at if done well so Im having a go at that. And with material changes, the sensor change is fine, but only if its not too long. If you are in the room or get to it soon after it runs out, you can change the spool and it will be perfect, but if you come to it after 8 hours after being idle, then the top layer would have shrunk a bit and the new layer will be very noticable.... well in my experience anyway. Still better than an instant fail. P.S. is the join just above the top of the robe?...I always try and spot the join.....eitherway good job!

Nice print! Ive been meaning to go big, but only when i think my sculpt is good enough. Ive been unlucky lately in melting filament together lately and keep waking up to the run out of filament message. I never had this with tr filament. I guess some just join better than others and too much retraction just pulls the join apart. Soft filament doesnt join as well as brittle filament for me. I guess ill just have to turn off retraction when using spliced filament leftovers using certain filaments. Left something under the buildplate the other day and almost got a heart attack when the platform lowered and a super loud mechanical screech yelled out when it hit it!! Luckily there must be a shut off as it only lasted like 5-10 seconds. Seems ok now!