cloakfiend

Thats some read right there...and i though my posts were long! I regret never getting into poly modelling, keep up the good work! You certainly know your stuff!!

I still feel the original nozzle on the um2 was better than with the OB. Not by much. I got finer details like tiny fingers with the um2 nozzle and they came out slighlty wobblier using the ob which is why i switched back. However If you like swapping nozzles a lot then the ob was better.

To be honest i havent seen my printer pulse ever, its one of the things i disabled early on. Im also always ingnoring all the mismatches as well, which yea is annoying because im well aware what cores and filaments are in my printer. I think my printer just stopped doing it. If you print off a stick and have the frame light on the lowest setting you wont get the pulsing....mind you im really ill at the moment and might be delusional but im still pretty sure. Ill check in the morning....if im not still in bed...

+1 as well here.

thanks for all the kudos btw!! its always nice to know someone appreciates your work. and i use a massive brush to do hair quickly. if you want to perfect it, theres no avoiding spending a bit more time, unless you use saved brushes. ive not yet experimented with bespoke brushes and displacement brushes but they look like time savers if used properly. here is the brush size i normaly use so you see what i mean about overlapping. Proper sculptors can do faces (ears and all) in like 15mins. thats my target time for face sulpts. my hair took less than a minute to do. i guess its practice, but the dog was all hair so obviously took a lot longer. as you can see in the picture, the hair is not very detailed at all. its interesting because i can remember that i learnt shading very early on in craft design and technology classes. and remember doing peoples homework for them during lunch for fun as practice to shade, because i'd already shaded all the drawings of my own. I looked at how technical drawings are done now and cant find anything from the age of my early education, back in....the 80's. its just lucky that the resolution i draw in prints so well on ultimakers! anything higher is a waste of time, unless you are printing larger.

I love drawing hair, i learnt from my biro days....no mistakes and taking the illusion of every hair approach. Shading basically... I draw hair in 3d pretty much the same way. Its nice and fast. I draw with a square and overlap to give the illusion of individual hairs which are actually the edges of thw square brush overlapping one another.

Its easy copying something as you have a target. Its drawing faces without looking at faces i have more options with which take time exploring. I also had some good angles but i need to sand it a bit i have ringing as the dutch melts easier, i usually drop thd temps for this colour as its oozy. The face was also no back and no ears, and clothes have no back details either! Too much pout as well.

A quick 3 hour sculpt based on the statue 'Modesty', just to see if i could, just liked the oldskool features. tried my best, a bit chubbier, but still ok. went very light on the acetone again.

For PLA to PLA, Cynao and accelerant is my saviour. I love accelerant almost as much as acetone!

Im also using a standard UM2. OEM. minor 35W heater upgrade. Unbeatable FDM quality/speed IMHO....even now. even with the stepper lines. Its what I use for hardcore rush jobs that need some quality also. As long as parts are available for it Im not too fussed about any further software/hardware upgrades, seeing as I haven't even upgraded. I went to the OB but then went back as I prefer the smaller heating block, and even preferred the 25W heated but I fried that taking it out. I jut need a few spare nozzles and couplers. I assume these are still available though?

Its free this time round! A gift to a friend who is crazy about her dog at work. Went a touch heavy with the acetone to give it the more worn look. Polished easily in like 5mins!

very happy with my doggy...

ok added the patina and it helped cover quite a lot of the faults!

ok all done now....

try other versions ? ...or just live with it. I have an ultimaker 2 and have manually adjusted the temps on it for every print for the last 4-5 years. No real problem. As long as its printing good, that all that matters.

My friend gave me some really low quality photos to model her best friends now poorly dog so i could make her a nice little (copper ;)) statue of if. I only had a few angles and the fur was different lengths in each photo, and i had no profile shots or close ups. I just tried to make the facial features correct and the rest of it cute so the realism and scale hopefully would not be that important! Will plate him later today, gotta let the acetone cure fully first though. As he's all hair sanding was not an option as the sanding would destroy the fine hair details which some of have already been softened out from the acetone. Am curious to see how this one turns out. Im going to risk using my poor deionised plating solution again....might be a mistake. Already bought new supplies for another time.....

Ahh good point, but still if I'm sleeping then I'm not bothered about the camera. I would like the option either way! I like options. I just don't like lights you can't turn off. I have a light phobia, I love the dark.

An entirely off option would be nice though at leat on the frame! As when all the lights are out in the house thats the only thing burglars will see! ?

I find pretty much most contact glues should also work. But they have temperature limits.

Thanks man, im taking a break for a few days need to finish some stuff off.

And polished...

Gave this guy a polish just now and even though i wanted to paint a fake patina, ill just admire him for a few days first! looks great to me. a solid plate!

Plating is real easy once you know how, the only snag is setup, after that its done!. Ive been too casual as of late. The other main issue is the damn thing wanting to float. But filler fixes that problem. I was looking into other nice fixes like titanium cages and such but thats a different hassle and you dont want your model touching anything while it plates. Ive yet to experiment with different patina colours as i have some awesome translucent metal inks as well! Ill use them on my unicron and let you know. They are fake patinas....vintaj patina inks. Looks promising i have all the colours already, just procratinating on when im going to use them as usual.

I've just done some reading on why my plating is failing and have found out that I have been using the wrong kind of water for my last few plating efforts!!! I knew something was up, everything was just taking WAAAAAY to long and not thick enough plates either. So.....remember DISTILLED water, NOT de-ionised! My local chemist was closed when I bought my water last minute and I just ended up buying car battery de-ionised water. 10L (two full batches) and basically wasted my time and money, my plates from now on will be faster and cleaner! this stuff turns my copper dark blue and green, which it never did before! They say now days new processes remove most unwanted minerals and impurities, but not in my experience! Will be steering clear of deionised water thats for sure! I'm surprised I got anything plated at all now!!!

as promised...