cloakfiend
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Posts posted by cloakfiend
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Nope, i've no idea, but one thing that is in colorfabb is PHA, as they advertise this on their website, as well as other things im sure, but i have no idea. but it appears that they have no issues producing it and many many colours with it in, so they have hit a real sweet spot.
Just got my NEW colorfabb red and leaf green!
Red looks the same so i'm sure it will be fine,
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Preferably as small a file as possible yet still large enough to cause the problem for you.
Well unfortunately its the large files that are the problem hence the annoyance of waiting around for it to slice, i can send you one of my sculpts later i'm going to post my alien print online for people to print anyways, so i guess if people download it to print it, you will get complaints about slow cura. and i don't think its bug, it just takes ages as my model has a high poly count, and a large flat base and as the layer height increases, the object volume decreases, and curas calculations follow suit so at least its consistent with the model detail.
As long as it prints i don't mind waiting,
And to be honest I dont really expect it to slice a 1.5 - 3 million polygons into thousands of layers in a few seconds. I'm sure bad topology has a little part to play in it.
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True i guess it would be asking a bit much. Ive no quarms using multiple software.
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So this is smoothing done on my last red batch of colorfabb PLA, went real well, lovely and smooth and loads of detail, but its hard to see with red. getting my next batch real soon so ill confirm its still smooths as well as the new colours.
if it comes off on your finger after 30 seconds, it smooths.
no sanding done at all btw.
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yes they have from what i've read, but unless you are printing tiny things, its a waste of time.
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Lol,
I've just been dabbling with meshmixer, and the supports it generates appears to be great? just printing at the mo, but looks promising, far better than curas random distribution which is fine for large flat surfaces and simple structures, but arty stuff really suffers. Is there any plans to introduce this as an alternative to supports? Like an extra in the menu, like Touching buildplate, everywhere, and 'pillar supports' or something on those lines?
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Anything 3D related is always worse on Mac. And as a Mac user for the past 7 Years their OS has gotten so lame, its not even funny. They are clearly focussing their resources solely on the mobile market. I also have a cintique companion 2 and its great. with an sd card reader (yay for writing UM gcodefiles!) 3.1 Ghz, 16Gb ram, ssd and intel6000 graphics (which is still probably lame, but works great in Zbrush and other 3D apps for me.) So i may resort to using that and avoiding the mac altogether.
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Fair enough, Im not really bothered about who and where its made, but care more about consistency, and for people doing long print runs with specific brands for specific reasons, (in mine acetone smoothing), I cant have them change processes on me half way through, simply because one batch went wrong for them. If the consistency does not remain the same throughout then i cant predict the results hence adding risk to my jobs which is the last thing I want to be doing. Manufacturers like colorfabb should really advertise that their PLA smooths with acetone. It would greatly boost their sales, and UM would sell a lot more if they reverted back to 'their original recipe', and followed suit.
But as we know in this world nothing lasts forever. And all good things come to and end, as was the case with UM branded PLA
Don't get me wrong, it prints great, but seeing as i'm after smoothing capability, it went from hero to zero overnight. This for me was the first time PLA did not smooth for me. Utterly depressing.
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I've not tried ethyl acetate, on 'pure' PLA or PLA with no PHA in it or acetonable impurities but the non acetone nail varnish removers i've tried in the past did nothing. Im going to carry on using colorfabb, I have ordered another batch of red, and some green which i've not tried before, but i'm confident in their PHA mix which they seem proud of and state VERY clearly on their website and achieved great results so far so i doubt they will change their manufacturing processes soon. UM brand i assume do not have as much expertise in the filament making department, hence offering far less colours and issues with their original PLA filaments which all smoothed wonderfully.
here is what the current um blue looks like after 10mins of soaking.....nothing but a grey residue, no smoothing what so ever. If it was their old stuff, the lines would be gone and the model would also probably be completely melted after 10 mins.
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i use a brand new imac and a 12 core 4ghz PC and have issues, mind you i did not try the big files on my PC as the imac is next to the printer and the PC at home. i think bad topology may have something to do with it. still a tick box wouldn't hurt.
Even Facebook is adding a dislike button. lol!
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Anyone who loves auto slicing clearly doesn't print complex models hence they don't understand the problem at all.
And curious @yellowshark, just noticed, I have almost the same amount of points as you yet am 4 levels lower than you, lol. Not that i care much, but I don't understand this point system on this site, lol.
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I've tried sculpt nouveaus Paints out and am not that impressed to tell you the truth got much better result mixing metal powder in varnishes. The patinas they sell are great though. Tiffany green is my fav. Once the SN paint dries it almost doesnt react to patinas al all, i guess you are meant to apply it when the paint is still wet, but i like to decide where to put it after and thats not possible with SN paints. If you make your own metal paints, then the metal is much more polishable and the patinas look far more realistic in my opinion. The rust patina is also a bit much in my opinion, and the tiffany green patina makes iron rust brown orange anyways as its copper that goes green with acid, not iron. Also because the paints are resin based they also help mask the lines in your prints! even though that means a tiny loss in detail.
for reference,
My copper mix paint and sculpt NV tif green patina.
and several months later as i havent sealed it...
Sculpt NV copper paint and black wash
MY copper paint and Black wash
SN paints lack the lustre of metal that i desire, i'm sure they patina fine if you do it early, but even for novices they are very easy to apply on the plus side.
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I've always wanted to print a realistic gun just because they look cool, but it seems to get mixed reactions. There seem to be none available for free download, i don't care even if it isn't airsoft. Ill do some hyper detailed guns next after my manga project and other million things i plan to print, lol!
If the model deserves it, and I have a free 10-15 dollars, why not buy?
I dont think id find a hyper realistic one for 10-15 dollars defo not on turbo sqiud. Ill keep looking, want a desert eagle, or colt 45 or uzi, or something fun looking for movie prop close ups.
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Are you including scaling in your " change settings " test? Scaling is the laggyiest adjustment for me.
yes i scale almost everything in cura to a specific height and filament usage amount. But since that button will not materialise anytime soon or ever and i doubt the lag will either, ill just keep on keeping on as i have been.
Was just saying my one grievance with cura (and agreeing with many others) that is all.
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I've always wanted to print a realistic gun just because they look cool, but it seems to get mixed reactions. There seem to be none available for free download, i don't care even if it isn't airsoft. Ill do some hyper detailed guns next after my manga project and other million things i plan to print, lol!
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The old cura handles all models no matter the size for me within reason. But i dont need to go too much above 1 million polys before it starts choking. The new cura is simple a no go on this front, period. It also greatly depends on the complexity and size of the model. simply importing a cube with 7 million verts will not strain cura as much as a highly detailed sculpt. with flat detailed areas as well as vertical detail, and support material.
Surely in the meantime a checkbox version for us artists would be less hassle than messing about trying to make the perfect code which will take a lot of effort, and would only take yet more time?
just make one button?
I find the reluctance to do this quite puzzling?
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I get that effect sometimes in 0.2 but not in 0.06. I guess it may be there but its FAR less apparent. Try colorfabb filament or a better brand? you dont seem to have said what brand you use. UM brand also prints nicely. Also make sure you are doing atomic pulls correctly.
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@nallath Try a 100MB file in 0.06, and you'll change your mind. Im runnin on a fairly high end imac. but its also slow on my 12core PC rig at home.
...And, if you could fix it, and I could hide behind a check box in the meantime, I would be grateful as well as a lot of others out there.
High end users who need this quality and currently have to wait minutes (or longer as i hear in the above post) per change would seriously appreciate an auto-slice button believe me. it appears that all the arguments to keep auto slicing are developer arguments, hence completely irrelevant for end users.
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I can't really see the problem, you just ignore the fact that the auto slicing is going on and go about your work of changing settings, adding things etc.. There is no need to wait for anything.
With high poly stuff the entire computer freezes while it is doing its computation, so you cannot simply carry on going about your business.... hence the EXTREME frustration, as there is also a massive delay so you think you've typed in a setting only to find you've pressed delete too many times and have to wait all over again to type in the value you initially wanted. If you dont do high poly stuff or really detailed models i guess you wont notice. But if you do then its torture, and having a tick box for autoslice would be a godsend.
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Yes i know, but if you scale anything, you wait, if you import an extra object, you wait, if you scale that object you wait, if you change a setting, you wait, you get the drift. I often print many parts as i make my stuff modular, so i just cram on as much as i can fit on the plate, but this means waiting each and every time. So if i import ten files, thats ten waits i'm doing. It IS irritating and I really cant see anyone complaining if you removed it, as opposed to people complaining insanely if you had introduced it to it previously no being there, which should speak for itself.
I know for simple low poly stuff that is not too irritating, but as soon as you start getting higher poly, its almost unbearable. Defo not something you want to be doing if you are in a rush. Sometimes i wonder if it has crashed but know it hasnt as its fairly stable (i use cura 15.02.01).
And fair enough about the developers thing, but I really cant see how I personally benefit from having to waiting every time for it to slice. Let the developers use auto slice to find the problems, and let everyone else have a version without. Or at least offer a version without, that way its the users choice, and they cant blame anyone for anything slicer related as THEY have chosen to use that version. Whats wrong with that?
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I can just picture people getting the button then getting pissed of because they forgot to press it and printed with a previous slice that didn't contain all the new settings.
That problem could easily be avoided by simply bringing up a dialog box (which you can choose to disable if you want from the menu so that dialog doesnt get irritating itself) that says do you want to perform a final slice? (yes/no) before you print or something like that, as soon as you press the print button. Which would make the most sense to me.
The auto slice is annoying, whatever the benefits. Its a time waster, like it or not, and lets face it no-one like wasting time, period.
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Ill show you a very easy way to remove it off the plate without damaging it as well
But you need to let it cool for a few minutes after it finishes, or else it will bend when you remove it and stay bent if it is still too warm.
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No i don't have any, but if the they are adding the same stuff to their filament, that in theory it should work. All colorfabb filament i have tried so far worked, but im not sure about the speciality filaments, like copper, bronze, carbon fiber, flexible......? Then again, i don't see the need to do it to those, as im only after a smooth surface that im going to paint after anyway. Maybe the XT20 for strength but i cant imagine it being 100 times stronger or anything. Im sticking to filaments i know and can print with easily. But fel free to let me know, get some acetone and throw a piece in for 1 min (no longer) then pull it out, if any residue come off on you hand then it smooths. Ignore the acetone going cloudy it just does that with PLA, it means nothing.
Tamiya putty is great for literally rubbing on your highres model, followed by a light sand with 400 -600 grit sandpaper, but this method is only viable for large smooth areas. when you get to areas of any detail this method will not produce great results without spending a lot of time and accuracy. Again, a resin wash will also fill gaps but lose detail (thats what that XTC smooth on stuff is, but it produces uneven surfaces compared to my PLA smoothing) which garners perfect layer smoothness. A little sand after on large plain surface usually helps forom a light sand but just to get it perfect.
I still have some old UM filament, so i guess ill have to break it out for my last few special prints, as it really was the best filament before they changed the recipe. It doesn't even go white in the acetone now, it goes grey almost instantly. In my opinion they just removed more impurities, leading it to becoming purer PLA hence having little to no reaction to acetone what so ever, nothing even came off on my hand after a dip of 5 mins. Even colorfabb comes off on my hand after 30seconds.
Ill have to try faberdashery or just pray colorfabb stick to their old recipe, Or else wait for new printer technology, because if i have to print with the lines showing, then i'd prefer not to print at all.
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Just a little update to let people know that UM brand PLA does NOT smooth anymore since they changed the recipe. i bought three rolls of it lol. well my next three will be colorfabb for sure. im sure they have not changed their recipe. ill let you know.
Acetone Finishing on PLA
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Im not feeling the leaf green, doesn't seem to print as good as the warm red.....