cloakfiend
-
Posts
2,015 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
68
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by cloakfiend
-
-
Here is my coupler going up when i push in filament for an atomic pull, and then back down when i take it out? i cant print anything anymore without a jam, so i have no idea what to do. change mozzle, change head unit,......no idea. and i just started a massive project, i'm totally screwed. cleaning doesnt seem to help. maybe 50 atomic pulls?
-
Im doing 215 um blue with 50 0.06 at the mo. Trying out the new pla to see if its as good as the old one. Had a horror of a time with my coupler though and am only getting good results now.
Mind you i did 213 at 70 0.06 and it turned out fine. So im sure 213 is fine.
With colorfabb i find a little bit hotter is better than a little bit cooler.
-
1
-
-
Youll be fine. You may get splitting issues if you print too low. But 210 should be fine. Have a play. Great quality prints with good details.
-
I print at 208 0.06 35. But thats me.
-
Ill film it in action, very weird. At least my method of damaged coupler printing is working for the time being. Otherwise my job is not gonna happen... If i push filament in it goes up, and if i take the filament out it goes down...weird. makes atomic pulls almost impossible.
-
Youll be fine mate, slap a bit of glue on the glass and off you go. Have been using nothing but colorfabb for the last year. Not sure about the heated bed as i got a um 2
-
After extensive nozzle cleaning and atomic pulls. i've come to the conclusion that the coupler is at fault after like 1 months replacement, great. Not too happy there, now i need to buy some more. And the gap between the coupler increases if i push the filament in too hard, and the plastic melts outwards and forces the coupler up. trouble is during long prints the pressure can occasionally slowly build up and push out against the coupler and hardening causing a slow jam and there is nothing i can do about it. Seriously worrying. Even after like 20 atomic pulls the dreaded clicking is happened again, which to me is a sign of a dying coupler or blocked nozzle. So back to my emergency style of printing with a damaged coupler for me again. This coupler business is such a drag, and my worst experience regarding the UM2, it causes all my problems. Especially when printing large objects which i needed to do recently, ill just have to sand them harder by hand. If you print a lot then its just a matter of time till this issue affects you too, or it already is...........:( Good times are over for me....
-
Yeah getting false notifications again, yay!
-
Ill post a video of me doing it all, and if you could tell me what im doing wrong, i think thats the easiest way as i cant see how putting on the coupler before or after the stainless steel coupler will make any difference as it moves later regardless. Could i replace the spring with a solid cylinder of steel, to prevent the thing moving up, is the spring really essential? im not too good with taking things apart, and putting them back together, but have managed in the past with a bit of common sense but this puzzles me seeing as i essentially just replaced one part that didnt move for one that now does, causing me endless problems.
-
Thanks for the reply, I wasnt aware it could be done any other way. there was no gap when i installed it, but as soon as i attempt an atomic pull, it moves up? like the melted plastic inside is forcing the ptfe coupler to raise. I would love to solve this so i can actually clean the nozzle, as now i am having no choice other than to print with a blocked nozzle, and the results are not that great to be honest, but seeing as i have a tight deadline, my only other option would be to buy a new nozzle or entire head assembly, and then to examine this one in the meantime.
Please correct me if im wrong, what you are saying is to unscrew the stainless steel coupler put the pfte coupler on it and then screw it onto the heater block. I think i did that most recently, but I noticed that the more i twisted the stainless steel coupler the pfte coupler would rise? which left me at the problem im at now?
My main question is, why does the PFTE thing move up, or at all? and is there a way to install it to prevent this? I will have yet another look after my current print is ready, but am slowly loosing faith due to most likely doing the same things wrong, not really knowing how to do it right even after looking at the instructions on the web. If only there was a clear video showing how to do it right? It doesn't take long to do and is essential so i dont know why anyone from UM hasnt done one to help those with this issue. But it looks like i'm the only one :( (even though i doubt it, i reckon other people just carry on printing in a poor quality and just not knowing why.)
-
OK, my coupler moves so much now after changing it? i am now completely screwed. If i cant fix it, then my time with this printer is over unfortunately all because of a 10 buck part, great. im seriously annoyed, and am getting tired of taking apart the print head. I have no idead why the coupler moves so high effectively blocking me from doing atomic pulls, but it ok-ish during printing. If anyone has any suggestions i would greatly welcome them as otherwise my time on this forum and printer are over for good... ill have to start looking for alternative printers without the stupid PFTE thing.
my dumb coupler.
Im getting tired of tweaking and was hoping i did enough, i had just started a massive project so im extremely annoyed hence this ranting post, but now fully understand why so many people have poor quality prints. As the title puts it so correctly its all in the damn coupler. :(
this is during printing? why is the coupler lower now? I can only do atomic pushes now not pulls, lol. so fricking annoying. I get that damn clicking noise again now that i cant do atomic pulls anymore, im gonna smash the printer before long if this continues.....
Do i need a new spring.....? I cant see any reson why the coupler would need to move at all. Why isnt the design of it don to prevent to moving. This has single handedly destroyed my entire perfect image of this printer.
-
I cant seem to find a place to buy that darn copperface machine, the robotfactory website has no shopping tab or purchase section as far as i can see, shame, i sent an email enquiry, but really wanted to just buy the damn thing today. Now i have to wait, great, i do enough of that with 3D printing as it is.
-
Ok just got some NEW ultimaker blue filament, and seeing from the temps on the pack, they are very different from the old ones i had, so i hope it smooths just as well as before, but im thinking it my not, so it might be back to colorfabb.....maybe i shouldn't have gotten 3 rolls then? lol.
OLD temps 190-260, NEW temps 210-230?
Also got paid today so im gonna order my electro plating machine as well! yay jewellery and gold faces here i come! will keep you posted....
-
Doesnt work in chrome on my mac neither, i just get the lower corner pic on a few screens nothing on one and blown up stuff on another, very random.
-
Doenst work on safari. picures are broken and only lower right and off screen at times..
-
That shouldn't matter. I think one of your pulleys might be quite as tight as it needs to be and the high acceleration on those jaggy lines is causing the pulley to slip. Is it slipping in both X and Y or just X or just Y? If just one axis you only have to tighten the 6 pulleys for that axis - most likely pulleys are the hardest to get to: the 2 pulleys on the short belt. So the one on the motor which is by far most likely to be the one - and the other pulley on the short belt.
You can increase your skirt distance and the jaggies will be less severe but I suspect you have a pulley that on rare occasions slips.
I think on both axis its easier to see on the alien print.
You have to admit the skirt lines are somewhat interesting on the alien print.
-
Hmm im not so sure, but you probably are right, even though cura has given me weird files on occasion.. But to be fair, the last time this happened was on my alien face as again the edges were messy but i didnt try printing it again. It even printed over the skirt lines! And i had the same weird jaggies on the skirt lines and only 50mm speed. Im pretty sure nothing is slipping i would hear it, and i sit next to the printer during work. i checked cura on both occasions and they both looked fine. The jaggy skirts did show on cura but not the shifted layer. I find it curious that both times this has happened it was on very high poly models. Chance? Who knows in this game eh! Lol at least it keeps my brain busy.
-
I've had this problem twice now, and at least i noticed the tell tale sign to abort..... the skirt lines. If they are jaggy then the print is going to spaz out and print the beggining fine but the rest in another location. I feel its due to sloppy modelling and bad edges on my models. I really push the lazy modelling as i dont like spending too long on that, but i've learnt my lesson..... so if this happens to you, clean up your model.
-
I have a problem with my PFTE thing sliding up and down during atomic pulls which in effect renders me stuck to not being able to do them anymore which is worrying as i cant unblock my nozzle anymore. Its like the spring inside is not doing its job? do i need a new spring or something? have i installed it right? The filament i pullout during my failed atomoic pulls even looks weird, like filament coming out from within the filament? alien filament? I really need to sort this though as i have a massive job coming up, and dont really want to buy a new print head unit every time i need a new PFTE coupler. I tried to fit it the best i could, but even though it looked identical to the old one, it doesnt seem to fit the same at all and sits waaay to high still... :( ive been using it a fair bit since the change, but am dreading a serious nozzle block as ill be doomed then.
Here is the result of an attempted atomic pull
compared to what it used to look like...
-
I'd highly recommend just fixing it manually. Letting any program do stuff automatically to 'FIX' problems with your print may be worth one shot, but you really should just learn to do things right or you will only run into deeper problems further down the line.
3D is not very diffiecult once you understand polygon flow and work with even distribution of polys and keep them under control not pointlessly having too many or too little which also causes print issues. Ideally just get someone to show you the basics in a day and you will be fine. basically if it looks messy, then the polygons are bad. You need to remember cura loves tris rather than quads, so if in doubt convert all your models to tri's. Especially from Maya, i didnt seem to need to do this from Max.
One of the main problems people run into is booleans. (cutting stuff out of stuff and embossing, but this is very easy with 3d as cura doesn't give a damn about normals (cura 15.02.01 anyways not the new cura!) and screwed up polygons, as opposed to animation or serious modelling. So even this is not too difficult. 3D printing lets you get away with alot of bad habits in 3D that noobs will most likely pick up.
Im gonna do a quick tut on 3D scanning cleanup and print in case people want to know a few basics and start doing more advanced stuff.
-
Yeah send it over, ill sort it for ya. You really should have made this in illustrator to begin with. Its just a simple one click extrude to get to what you want i think.
Vector files are point based files rather than pixel based bitmap files. When you are in illustrator and draw your shape and are happy with it, you save it. Now depending on what version of illustrator you have it will save it as that version by default, but at the saving screen it gives you legacy options which means you can save it as older versions of illustrator and this is what you must do for pretty much all 3d apps that import ai files. Ai(adobe illustrator). Save it as version 8or nine 9 whatever works. Then import your shape in 3dsmax and extrude it however much you want. Done. Mind you you may have to apply an xform first just to scale it up so that the scale of units will match your file. I guess if you dont have a clue it may confuse you at the start as its a lot to learn but really it only takes a few minutes to do in practice. Im sure you could do it in one minute if you were quick. I dont have blender btw. I ideally would want a 2d version of what you want to make the 3d version of it quickly.
Pm me a link.
-
Ill just print a few at a time. Its only small. Thanks for the reply, i thought maybe you could just disable it somehow.
-
Just curious but, why does the printer slow for the last few layers, i was just thinking about it and couldn't think of a reason, so i thought id ask, its just that ive started to print a few small things and it melts the hell out of them unless i guess print stuff alongside them to stop the nozzle staying in the same place too long? Im not even sure its cooling down the temp to compensate, is there a way to disable this 'feature'?
-
Oh ok, thanks for the info, good to know! i can play with that setting now! lol.
It's all in the PTFE Coupler!!!!
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Yeah I was thinking about something like that, but Im not sure why its doing that now only when I have replaced the coupler. The first time I admit I may not have cleaned everything perfectly, but the second time I cleaned everything to a perfect finish before I installed everything correctly and made sure everything was touching what it needed to touch and all that. I really didn't want to waste time ordering new components but it appears I have no choice, Ill think about ordering two new head units, so that I can clean one and have it ready for when the other one fails. I really hate taking things apart though, its one of my pet hates. Especially when I don't understand why I didn't have the same problem before. Thanks for the feedback though.