cloakfiend
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3D Prints
Posts posted by cloakfiend
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Will do my payday is soon, so ill get it after i get paid! And you can be sure im gonna try and coat all my prints. That is when the dremmel will come in very handy. with all its buffing and sanding addons. ill feel like a scientist with this thing, lol.
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Not yet im not printing flat letters yet, but will do one for a test. So basically i will do everything as before, but just increase the flow to 110 and it should fill the top layer in prints done at 0.2mm layer height. Have i got that right?
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I dont have the olssen block. But it seems like the spring is not tight enough. Is that possible? The spring lost its spring? So i need to changethe springs as well? Interesting, i wonder what else will crop up. When will i need a new nozzle? Whats the average life roughly if estimated to be used everyday all day with PLA.
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ive tried the metal powder thing and its ok, but not able to easily do detailed models. electro plating would be the way. looks interesting, i saw companies doing this then buffing it real nicely after. i may give it a shot. i love chemicals. and magic, lol. i wonder how long it takes....link didnt work for me....ill probably get that copper-face thing. looks great. wonder what running costs are for it.
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ok so i printed the alien again and this time it went okish. still a gap around the mouth so ill need to thicken it from the inside. the flat bit came out real nice, shoud look great after some acetone. hopefully it wont cave in on me again and i wont need all the filler! 19hr print at 0.06 50mm colorfabb red. it would be 34hrs at 35mm so i just increased it and it still looks great in my opinion. i thought it should be ok as i did it at 211 instead of 209 like last time which had many splits and other issues.
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its high voc content and real smelly id leave it a month if you`re doing your room. at least 48 hrs. i leave my models 48-72 hrs even longer as if you touch it during its drying period then it tarnishes to a darker shade. after its dry its all good but you get gold residue if you rub it too much too early. i read that montana black series gold spray is also very good, but its probably more expensive and a lot harder to get hold of.
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im still having issues with my coupler, lol. it moves waytoo much and makes atomic pulls nearly impossible now? have no clue. i need to push it down before any print now. whatever...as long as it prints i guess.
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Is that for electro plating. If i got that, could i coat my models in some varieties of metal, like stainless steel for example? How much is it?
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Its the usual, quicksand, acetone dip, undercoat then topcoat. The spray is valspar brilliant metallic gold i think (not the regular one). You can see it in my last video if you want to see the can, it takes longer to dry but if you lay it on a few times it kinda looks glossy but really shiny at the same time. Its an effect paint for furniture i think.
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here is a pic of the back...left the spheres in for the eyes, lol.
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just out of curiosity what is the buring out method. is it possible to cast directly form PLA? i thought it didnt handle temps well?
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I just replaced my coupler and had this exact same issue. Plastic oozed out but it didnt even print unlike yours. I had to un screw it 1mm at least i was from pictures i saw, i forgot which thread, but there was a close up of the assembly with the screw not quite touching the base. I think i need to either screw it more or less as im getting less flow than before. You are getting too much. Check out the closeups on the change coupler thread instructions. This wont cure the top surfaces at 0.2 as that is the problem that has no solution. You loosen the screw and you should have solved your problem.
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Thats weird, as i found that flat surfaces are what this printer does really well, heres an example of a raft i had laying about done in red ABS 0.1 layer height, I also print many faces and i lay them flat as they print better than if they are printed vertically due to all the striping. I only really had issues at 0.2 but i feel for you mate. you want something like this.
Either way I hope you sort it soon, as it means you cant print a damn thing. Can you print any stock supplied models with closed surfaces, i.e. the robot and all that stuff. If it cant then you have a proper hardware problem rather than a software related problem or some other variety.
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I wouldn't think so, as the acetone evaporates itself after an hour or two anyway.
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lines are still there so it seems like i didnt sort the coupler out right becuse i never hadd wobbly models i couldnt sort. this will do though as im in a rush for it to dry for tomorrow. i reckon if you painted t with acrylics it would probably hide it.....or more sanding. lol.
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ok no splits yet' just did the usual 5 mins of sanding on the face and any smooth areas i could find. just dipped it (for 35ish seconds) so im gonna leave it for an hour or 2 to be sure, but it hasnt warped the flat base much which is odd. i guess ill see more lines then, but nice detail around the eyes. last pic is 30 mins post acetone.
last one looks evil, lol, just thought i would post mid acetone photos. im slowly running out of acetone. its slowly starting to evaporate of the box unfortunately.
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Most other people on the net from what ive read use an air canister held upside down and just spray the model where it touches th base (ive tried it and it works) with it hyper cooling it and then it also come off very easy. But to tell you the truth after you've been printing for a while, you wont need any of this as when you use the right glue and the right amount it always comes off easy, no matter how big or flat it is. I have't had a problem removing anything for many months now, i cant even remember the last time i had a tricky model to get off. I used to get them stuck so hard, i would put a plastic chisel and hammer type setup to the glass! lol, but after a few chips i gave up on that idea and have to print on the other side as a result of my actions, lol.
Also when you find the right glue, you don't need to keep re-applying it. I change my glue about every 20-30 models now. The only reason i would get a new plate is because the old one was chipped. or has holes in it as tends to happen over time.
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Ok just printed a detail test, where i took to Zbrush again, this time adding detail in nostrils and eyes and tightening the lips up to. curious how sharp it will be after my acetone. Here is before photo, with its weird moire pattern that is seems to get... must note the alien i did earlier was printed at 50mm not 35mm so maybe thats why it came out less good that i expected? even though this model seemed to have a very thin gap in the middle of the shell for some reason, so hopefully the acetone wont completely destroy it due to its ultra thinness. (its less than 1mm thin shell all round. Just under 4m of filament used, which is next to nothing!
Ill acetone this one tonight, maybe a quick spray too, I need to give it as a finished present tomorrow!
I have a feeilng its gonna crack though as im sure ive installed teh couple badly still. the gap is too big up top. There were lots of little bits sticking out too.
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Thanks, I think ill just give up on this topic though i have alrady changed the way my printer printes already too much. I just did a print using my usual settings and it seems as if there was a tiny gap between the layer walls like 2 shells, before it would just make it solid but now its not....as long as the surface is ok i dont mind now. Ever since i changed my coupler things are different...? oh well. I dont use slicer so will not use that method, unfortunately. My workflow is complicated enough using 3 separate programs to do what I need regarding wall thickness and surface quality.
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I need to see it to believe it, lol. I've not see anyone do this successfully and post a pic close up to prove it, so if you could sort it out it would solve that issue nicely. Im quite willing to try different flows even though i'm pretty sure i tried that, and the filament size thing, well, i think i tried that, but if you post screenshots of what you are doing ill give it a shot and report back.
Im not that bothered though as I mainly use low res 0.2 for signage and office stuff that looks fine from a distance. Its of no use to me whatsoever for printing actual models.
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try dropping the temp to 210? I get this not closed surface business all the time when printing 0.2 mm layers and from what i've read there is no cure, but i'm not sure if i still got it with 0.1?
I definitely dont ever get it with 0.06 if that helps?
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I dont really know your exact problem, but it was the coupler for me when that started happening to me. i printed about 10 months on my first one but i really did push it till it totally died and i could physically print no more!
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Change your pfte coupler or get used to printing using my guide in how to print with a damaged pfte coupler. Search for it in you tube.
Here you go. Your gonna be taking the bowden out after every print.
Also make sure you do atomic pulls too. I got a vid for that as well.
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Forget about 0.02, 0.06 is fine. Colorfabb pla should also be fine as i use colorfabb but its more prone to craking and splitting compared to um dark blue. I have a massive thread about this and print faces all the time, check it out over at tips n tricks then go to acetone smoothing PLA (i have loads of close up photos). i have some white colorfabb pla but only use it for atomic pulls. with colorfabb you need to dunk it for like 40 seconds then leave it for an hour or so. It will be harder to tell if you use white as yo can usually tell from the colour when its ready(cured) after the acetone dip as it get a weird white coating not pure white but a glazed white and the model loses,its satin look as well, but feel free to experiment.
Closed TOP surfaces
in Improve your 3D prints
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All long as it works ill do it. If your nozzle is blocked (i.e. its doing that clicking thing), then increasing flow is a bad idea, if its not then it should be ok in my opinion as you are not trying to fix an actual hardware jam with software. If there is no actual jam then im guessing your arent adding to any problem other than an issue with the print rather than the printhead itself... not sure but thats what i think. besides i never touched flow before so i will give it a shot and see what happens.