cloakfiend

@GR5 can you post a pic of your printer sideways, as the spool jam issue, tangled filament, or whatever you want to call it, is my main issue with the printer, but all these type of printers will have this issue apart form the cartridge ones that control how much filament comes out and have it enclosed. I have no idea other than cutting off measured filament (as i posted in the pic above) of preventing tangled filament. It used to happen to me every now and then, but now it NEVER happens since switching to this method. Is there another method (that is as effective as this one) other than cutting it off the roll to prevent tangles as i would love to know it, but i just cant think of anything as good?

You may want to do an atomic pull before each print to be sure your nozzle isnt blocked. Cant hurt. anything to avoid the clicking is ok in my book.

It looks like a jammed feeder or bad model, eitherway easily sorted, i posted a link to the bad model issue on your other thread from this (now below), and the way to solve bad filament spool jams is printing like this with the right amount of filament measured. Bad model possibility, but if others have printed this with no issues, then its more likely a spool jam. BTW when printing circular things, dont bother with infill, just make the walls slightly thicker. Saves time and money!

Ok i deleted the next step off my SD card by accident, but all you do is pop in the SDcard, remember your amount of filament which was 4.25 Meters (425cm) and add on the length of the bowden tube then cut it off the roll, sharpen the tip as if you were doing an atomic pull (i also have a video showing you this) and then balance it on the back filament holder and click change material and feed it in making sure the filament is facing the right way when you feed it in. Make sure the bowden tube is not connected as if it goes into the head then by the time you click print, the material will be blocked inside the nozzle due to the badcoupler. You'll see the setup in the vid anyways. Ill do proper vids once i do the roughs so i know what to improve for the next time. Heres a little vid in case you have no idea how ive done the filament. Feel free to measure it how you like,i just find i cant use a tape measure as the filament starts curling too much to measure when i've unrolled too much of it. Anyways, here how i kick off a print, i should have called it part 2 but...i didn't lol. Part 2: kicking off the print (after loading the material with a pre-prepped base)

This is how i print now, 7 mins not too bad, i repeat myself a bit, but it sheds light on a few issues people may have with the PFTE coupler. Now ill admit i dont really know if im right in saying whats actually wrong but doing things this way bypasses any problems i would normally have kicking off a print with my visibly deformed coupler.

Fair point. I guess if you arent smart enough to figure out time passing in a video then i guess you shouldnt be 3d printing.

I deliberately didn't do any edits to show the true time it takes which is what newbies need. I can always do hardcore edited versions for the people who just like gathering knowledge and seeing hows others do things as well so thats no problem. There were a tremendous amounts of edits on the UM atomic pull method on you tube that if i watched it as a newbie, i would be confused, and i don't think pulling out filament slowly is right, as it can leave bits in the stuck around the head.

OK, im doing a tut from start to finish including the acetone and spray painting, so once i finish, i guess the mods can delete the portion of this thread before it. Part 1 loading your model in cura from your 3D app.

Here are two vids i made, now im not going to say this is THE way to do it but considering i really have not seen any one doing it it works for me and im being careful. The fact that im holding a camera at the same time makes life VERY difficult for filming. And you may think from the video im being heavy handed, but i am very careful about how much pressure i apply so i dont break anything. feel free to move this to another thread if you like, or shake your head at the way i do things, lol. Bad PFTE coupler - removing stuck filament. Atomic Pull, my way, lol.

Fair enough. I guess its a bit cheeky if me complaining about peoples serious issues when i dont really have any or have dealt with any. Ill keep quiet from now on.

Im already doing a tut for printing and changing materials with a deformed coupler and proper atomic pulls. Maybe also applying glue to the plate as its easy. And kicking off a print from cura. Thats about it. Im so sick of hearing people complaining that they cant work their machines or constantly playing around with expert settings before they understand anything. Ive been using my printer since sept/nov and have never needed to go to advanced settings once so i have no idea why most newbies do.

I figured out a method of printing and changing filaments relitively easily even with a deformed coupler. However from what ive read that flex material its not easy material to print with. So im not surprised you are having a hard time with it. My method works with pla which is what i use. But again. Nobody told me i figured it out these printers are still not 100% consumer ready. There most definitely is a learning curve. But you have to use your head and try to figure out why things happen and what you can do to fix them. Only asking for answers and not truly experimenting with everything available is the lazy way. It might help it might not. Not everyone shares exectly the same issues. There is more to the printer than settings. The feeder, the bowden tube, the coupler... all of these things are open for you to play and hack to make them work the best for you. Ill do a tut. But in all honesty if i look at how um do atomic pulls on their videos, i do it differently, how most people load their material, i do it differently, how people change materials, i do it differently.. You get the drift? Do what works for you. The rules of 3d printing are merely a guideline. Even on the um. Thats what makes it better than any closed source printers. I could list all the problems with the UM but whats the point it wont achieve anything as i cant do anything about them. So instead ive just figured out workarounds. Sorry for the rant...lol.

I hear you, i hate waiting for it to cool down. Lol.

I had perfect results with abs and pla out of the box. I see all these new people messing around with expert settings when there is no need. By using those setting you are going to run into trouble down the line.... Truly pointless. What on earth is going through your head that makes you go straight into advanced settings before you understand the majority or the basics of the 3d printer, as you clearly dont otherwise you wouldnt be going there.

And its very easy to clean off as well, just use fairy washing up liquid (or maybe any washing up liquid?), let it sit for a minute or two and its just wipes right off with water no effort just a bit of repeated light wiping. also apparently print with brim. I dont print ABS anymore so im not that well versed, but it worked for me when i did.

you make it. from acetone and ABS filament. Its the only way it will stick. Google it. but dont make it too thin or too thick. it needs to be runny and waterlike when you are applying it. everyone has different methods of applying it. i just pour it on a tissue and rub it on the glass tring not to overlap the last bit so no buliding up any layers. P.S. you want to be able to see a hint of the colour of the abs you are thinning in the juice when you wipe it on the glass, otherwise its to thin.

Glue doesnt work with ABS, you need to use ABS juice. and apply it cold. and the glass should be cold too. I mean stone cold not warm, otherwise the bond is not strong enough due to the juice not hardening enough before its re-heated during printing.

Agreed!

I have no issues with curved filament in my bowden tube, but then again i always cut it off the roll so i dont print like most people. And If im printing 0.1 - 0.06 i have no issues what so ever. Its 0.2 that quality drops and issues arise. Its when you are rushing that you will run into problems. Sometimes, you just gotta leave it for 54 Hours! Remember the hotter the plastic the worse quality you will get as the plastic takes longer to cool therefore issues may arise, and thin parts may melt. Besides, if the outer shell looks good, what do you care what the infill looks like, you dont see the infill, as long as the top is OK that is!

Ok here are the results... the joining was not as easy as i thought and im just being lazy again and not using some putty that arrived today to fill in the gaps as i cant be bothered again. Its just a test ill do it when i really need to. They good ok before the acetone, but after a dip the robot opened up a millimeter on one side so i decided to leave it i haven't dipped the gnome yet. I also show you the face after the paint dried. I dropped the robot in by mistake and hand to put my hand into the acetone, but im lucky to be alive after that so try not dropping anything into the acetone if you are not wearing safety gloves. I did initially wear them, but i needed more grip so just took them of as acetone is pretty harmless if you dont drop things a lot in it and have to put your hand in it. (please allow the saftey comments im not in the mood) and i ran out of primer in case you are wondering why i dint finish the UM bot. Im not gonna post anymore on this thread, i think i've covered everything. Ill do a video next.

Surely the gentler the curve the more noticable the marks, think of it as the jaggies on a diagonal line with no smoothing. Or a low res elipse and look at where it looks lame most. everytime the line (purple line) breaks you get a mark...? i think. Less in the middle and more on the edges. Its a resolution thing maybe?

I hear you about 260 being a bit high, but i think it is fine as long as you dont let it sit there. I do it before every print and have had no issues what so ever compared to the times i never did it.

Yep, like i said, the default settings are fine, and the only real settings you need to play with are temp and layer height and speed according to what type of filament you use. Also shell but (again only what in the basic settings) the other stuff is more complicated if you dont know what you are doing you are likely just making things worse. Im glad temp solved it for you and can confirm raising the temp fixes these problems, especially for colorfabb. I had people telling me my printerwaas faultly when i printed at 50mm/s 0.2layer height at 230, but hey its what worked for me, and the tune button is great for experimenting on the fly.

I think changing infill speeds is a bad idea from everything ive read regarding related problems. I haven't changed any settings and other than speed and temp, and layer height and have no issues with any object. Try with normal settings before you start messing around fine tuning. Get used to how the printer work before tinkering about as you may run into problems and get annoyed that they dont work out.

Colorfabb is good filament its all i use along with UM. You should really be fine with all settings default out of the box, and just changing layer height and temp. Try a reset maybe if you are still concerned, but from your print, the layers look flawless. not sure what that weird stuff is on the left of the writing though. Your atomic pull looks OK from the pics. It may lack solid definition (cant tell from the photo), and kinda looks a bit wobbly. i dont think you are pushing it in hard enough near the cooling period. the tip should be very sharp around all the edges of the interior of the print head. Something like this, ignore the back, my coupler is dead. P.S. When you are doing the atomic pull, heat it up to 260, and push the filament in reasnoble hard but not too hard (i actually hold the filament with pliers as i dont like the pressure on my hands) and then when the filament is going through, dial it down to 85. now rather than waiting for the temp to drop and then whipping it out, in my opinion, the most efficient way is to keep pushing it through until its too cool to go in, i usually find it it slows and stops around 170 degrees C for colorfabb PLA. Then leave it and watch it drop to 85 before whipping it out. (do not make a cup of tea as its cooling down as if its stays on 85 for even a few seconds too long you wont be able to get it out and forcing it is a bad idea, your better off reheating and staring again.