cloakfiend

Could you recommend any good cheap ones in particular?

I guess using a ruler is out then, lol.

Not sure what you mean but im using 3mm filament. I use cura though, so what do i need to do? Im sure a lot of people would also like to know. do i need to measure the filament and then enter the details in cura?

I have the same issue and i have not found a solution, but only with 0.2mm layer height. Using Colorfabb BTW.

for comparison sake, for those interested.... old and new.

OK on the road again, ended up giving it all a good clean and loosening the gap 2 after looking aroung on the pic from the above post, left a 1mm gap and even though the coupler is still far away it seems to be working.... got those funky lines a bit more than before, weird edges too which i dont think i had before but ill see how it goes... weird edges causing the wobbly looking first layer someone asked about, they join up fine which is even weirder.

OK there was some serious leakage around the couper end to where it meete the metal, so after burning my fingertips heating the metal thing up to get theplastic out, i still have the same issue of a big gap? im not sure if im twisting the main metal thing too much or too little and its pushing the coupler out as i do it? here is a pic explaining what im not sure about. what is the right amount of gaps for both? It weirds because the coupler is identical to the one i replaced in size yet it doesnt fit the same? gap 2 is where plastic was leaking out from btw

Well i clearly did something wrong, did 3 atomic pulls with no luck after. gonna have to take it apart again, lol. any idea why the coupler has decided to move real high leaving a huge gap between the metal and coupler? Was Ok when i fitted it? means the filament always gets snagged on atomic pulls? I may just try a print in the meantime and see how it goes out of curiosity while i wait for an answer.

Thanks for that, i did it last night because i couldnt wait any longer and just unscrewed everything didnt do the tape thing but seemed ok and realised i should have done the atomic pull and cleaned the inside, but if i have any problems i guess that will be my first port of call just wanted to get the damn thing in, was a real pain to get out needed to uncrew the entire metal thing it stuck in and wedge it out!

Just thought i would let you know, after i cleaned the outside of the nozzle as well as the inside i stopped getting this, so perhaps try that. If the nozzle is blackened it needs cleaning. heat it up and wipe it down with a damp towel, and then get the edge of a scalpel blade and gently scrape the outside so you see the brass. If its dirty then very fine filament strands can easily get hooked on it and slowly cause blobs and unwanted extra heat from the extra bulidup of pla on the nozzle. (if youre using PLA that it.)

Can someone point me to the guide for replacing the coupler, as i cant seem to find it, and i know it was around. I was hoping to get it done today to kick a print off overnight. cheers.

The time has finally come 10 months later.... time to change this coupler thingy.... i think? I clean my printer before every print and this happened. I know this is the result of a nozzle jam as ive seen it before during my early days of learning before I did atomic pulls, but it was perfect so.... I may try just sliding it down first but then again why not just replace the damn thing once and for all and save my self all the messing around, lol.

Sorry if i accused you of being a beginner and instantly fiddling, its just so common these days that kids think they are real smart and start tinkering before they even get to grips with the machine.

Lol, by the time it checks all that you've missed youre deadline. lol. If its gonna do all those checks and measurements and stuff it then you can forget about it being quicker than anything around today. Thats for sure. There is a robot that can fold clothes now, but it takes it like 10 minutes per t-shirt, so that leave little hope for all of the above!

I almost bought a makerbot but ended up buying a um2 never looked back. If you cant manually open up your printer to fix a nozzle block or jam or whatever you are doomed, and im sorry but firmware does not solve these problems. Only your hands and an open source printer make this possible. Closed source filament printer = more cost and more failure rates. Period, so think to yourself if you want a reliable printer or one that fails a lot. Its that simple between open and closed source printers. Makerbot is closed source therefore its crap.

I am printing a lot of large flat objects at the moment (letters) and get this everytime i think it is to to do with the nozzle being too close, but i prefer it that way, after the next layer it flattens it so I dont even bother worrying about it. Im printing in 0.2 BTW but ive seen it in many forms. dont worry about it. you wont see it afterwards unless you leave it at only one layer so its all good... Dont worry about the weird patterns, its because i rarely ever change my glue now, and i always get perfectly flat surface. In my opinion its always better having the nozzle closer to the glass at the start of the print than further away due to the pla sticking to the glass much better especially for thin letters and anything of any detail. I've got many more to do so ill show you how bad the next one looks at the start.... Now if only someone solved the incomplete flat top surface for 0.2mm layer prints! lol. That one still puzzles me at increasing temp does nothing or flow either. Oh well, its good enough for what i need anyhows.

Ok heres my little painting setup that ive tested on the models above. And the pots ive used to mix the varnish in.

Thanks, They really aren't very difficult at all to do, and no i dont use Modern Masters paints. I tried one type of paint from http://www.sculptnouveau.com/ (the type-c metal paints) and i got the tiffany patina from there as well(which is awesome BTW and you can get fake rust too!), but from what ive read and personal experience you can just make all the paints and patinas yourself and save A LOT of money. its just chemicals after all. Also i prefer the look of my home made metal paint rather than this one as its much much more reflective and looks more genuine in my opinion and the patina look way nicer than with the purchased paint as it contains more metal to react with. On the other hand these ones are much more easy to apply as my varnish mix is tricky to apply if you are a novice with painting techniques. The viscosity dramatically changes with the amount of metal powder you mix in it and can go real globby and drip, but if you take your time and make notes of how much works best for you its a win win. all you need is varnish and metal powder. and wire wool. Also black ink wash for the detail. then you polish it of again, and you have your perfect model. The really shiny metallic painted models in my pictures arent actually paints they are varnish (in my case ronseal) mixed with metal powder. each one looks slightly different as i never bother measuring how much powder I use and often add more or pouring more varnish for my desired amount of metal. It why the patina works (as patinas are just acid reactions to the metal powder in the varnish), as i mixed copper powder in the varnish and then buffed/polished it down with wire wool to make it shine. Hope that helps.... ill post pics of my paint pots so you'll see for yourself, its all a bit ghetto as its diy but that way you get the look you want. Also when the varnish is still wet you can throw different metal powders on it to get a mixed finish with multiple metals in it which looks great after as you could never paint it like that using any paint technique.

I could do with some chloroform! ill give it a try! http://www.sciencecompany.com/Chloroform-32oz-Reagent-ACS-P16936.aspx http://www.chemicals.co.uk/chloroform

I use Araldite 5mins, its great if you want to get stuff in place as it lets you ajdust the position for the first few minutes unlike superglue and then goes rock solid, its two part, but better than superglue for that reason. then some basic tamiya modelling putty to fill the gaps to make it perfect.

Mine just hung as well, but the same model worked just fine in the legacy cura, so this one is fussy with its models. Check your obj or whatever. Dont bother using this one yet in my opinion. Its slower as well.

Cura 15.06.01 on my mac here at work doesnt seem to give me the amount of material used or amount of time taken to print object, which renders it useless for me. Any ideas? RE_EDIT - Maya 2016 is seriously buggy, and cant seem to do planar extrudes properly or even bevel plus on AI files or even text it creates itself???. So back to Maya 2015 and all is good again. Just having a real bad day with new software giving me a headache. ...Well after trying the same file in the old cura (15.02.1) the same model worked even on my crappy mac, so new cura is more sensitive to overlapping surfaces or imperfect models. Which is a great shame as doing things quick and dirty was a nice aspect to this whole printing business. Now you need to be even more careful with your models topology. Also rotating heavy models is very slow compared to before. Unless the way it creates support material has improved, I personally will not be using any versions past 15.02 which is bullet proof. I don't require pretty interfaces i require robust stable software.

OK i have waaay too many of my acetone test paint jobs laying around so im throwing out most of them out, here they are for memories sake. OK i thinks thats enough, please dont press reply, as its gonna be a lot of space wasted repeating all the pics!!

Yeah, I was tempted for about half a second then remembered that only idiots enter passwords directly from an email that is non specific, no matter who its from, just reffering to 'payment'. No names mentioned, No subject other than payment (not what for) mentioned, and an established company using Gmail?, after having just rebranded a forum to be intergrated into the brand more, and Its Very important, yet you havent stated why anywhere in the email?? Lols.

Also make sure to do atomic pulls. other wise that clicking noise will haunt you for ever!