cloakfiend

You can still print multiple objects but you have to combine them first in your favourite 3d program. Then cura treats it as one object.

Thanks! Thats great news, i guess i was being paranoid and thought it was the dark blue. Happy printing!

Sorry for getting back late on this, but UM PLA states 190-260 for the Temps. And even if there is something wrong with my printer, i dont mind, as long as i keep getting perfect layer height.

Just surious but i really like the UM Blue PLA filament and the dark green one is good too, but am running out now, someone told me it was discontinued, I just thought i'd ask, and if it is unavailable, what is the closest i can get to that filament, as is reacts beautifully with acetone and i need it to get smooth parts? These are my spools.

Yes, Sure, experimenting with metal coating can give you such awesome looks that you just cant print. It takes a tiny bit of effort and a bit of waiting, but is well worth it. Its basically a base of either varnish, resign or casting material that you mix the metal powder in, and then paint it on your model, and after its hardened, you darken it with ink, so that when that dried, you lightly sand the highlights and it looks instantly cool. Also because its real metal you are using, and not just some metallic paint, you can add patina aging acids to it and it will rust or corrode leaving either blue or greeen rust for copper and the orange rust for iron. Here is my lastest attempt, i actually bought a metal paint from the US for this, but found it very hard to paint with and uneven, and i had to mix a hardener and catalyst and weight them out, and wasn't sure if my scale was correct, so not sure all in all, but im sure after i treat them they will look cool. But after some washes and sanding will hhopefully look something like the picture below... but different as i mixed the paints for this old model, and it was layed on thick. Theses new models should have much more detail. Just used a regular big house painting brush to lay on the paint, nothing fancy.

Most parts dont need any infill, I print at 35mm/s for 0.06 and 50mm/s for 0.1. These are good speeds in my opinion.

@wattsekunde support doesn't generate if you close your model, so model it hollow (i.e. with a shell) or punch a hole in it somewhere during the modelling stage, then tick the support everywhere option. otherwise it will just print a hollow model without the support inside.

I agree the old CURA infill was better, but seeing as i never use infill anymore, i dont mind. I just tick support material, and it kinda serves the same purpose but uses less material and is great for what i need. @yellowshark, i also seek perfection (and achieve it to some extend), but my perfection comes after some post work and painting (not very much BTW). And I personally hate the plastic look finishes now, everything looks the same in plastic, at least with faux metal effects and other experimentation nothing ever looks the same. An unpainted model to me is an unfinished model (like a statue or something not engineering related). Like buying an air-fix model and not painting it. Or designing a 3D model and not texturing it, or anything. It looks like a toy, i just want it to look amazing. Even though it is simply amazing for being made the way it was anyway, and for even existing.

Maybe try not having such fine detail if you dont know how it will look, slowly scale things down and see how much detail you can keep rather than just trying tiny things out. some things scale down well, some things need to be built with your printing in mind. I generally only print with 1.2 shell and have no real issues. if you send me your model i'll print it at 1.2 just to see how it looks. I now kind of know my limits, and just work within those boundaries. I used to have 0.8mm shell with infill but found it was too thin, especially for my acetone dips. Now i do 1.2 with no infill.

OK just thought I would show you what the t-rex cracking looked like, in case thats a look youre going for? This is a result of over acetone dipping. These were dipped then dried then dipped again, and again. looked ok at the time, but as soon as i sprayed on undercoat i saw these split marks showing up.

Looks OK to me, just pop in a touch of filler and sand it and youre good to paint it. But then again if you werent planning on painting it, try modelling it differently or exporting it differently, are you using cura or slicer, or printing hotter, or slower, bigger, smaller, there are tons of things you could try, or just accept the holes, they're not the end of the world, but seeing as i use my printer purely for art and always paint my stuff, slight imperfections are totally OK with me and easily fixed.

This page still takes waaay to long to load. Latest bust i did modelled from 123D

The post your prints section also states 1 photo for everything even though I uploaded many. So that is incorrect. Especially seeing as when you go into the images you can scroll through. Yes, its like the forum people are the beta testers, of the Ultimaker and the forum. Zero testing and debugging here truly shocking before deployment in the wild.

OK, done a whole load this weekend, now im waiting for the undercoat to harden, and they'll be done, but on one thing i did notice, is that something with the undercoat spray reacted with the first print i did with 0.8mm shell for the trex, and it just started cracking insanely, so that has now become a salvage job, but might look cool due to the randomization of the cracks. Ill post most later. The others seem unaffected by the spray. all colorfabb filament. Going ultra thin on the bases has left me with warped bases, but i dont really care i can always put them on new ones. Some 123D catch friends, and a cleaned up versions of a few models i have laying around.

Just looked at the old forum and thought to my self, this looks good, then the penny dropped. old forum. lol. ...all that lovely information on the first page! drowning my sorrows in acetone today!

@kayzay it does get tangled, it happened to me twice and i decided never again as i was doing 48 hrs prnts and got pissed off. this is also the cause of uneven layering, due to to inconsistent variations in pressure into the feeder head cos of the jams. i never print of the spool anymore. i just measure what i need off the spool and cut it off and balance it on the holder. flawless prints eversince and i get perfect layering as a bonus. bout half a meter wasted each time, but its a price im more than willing to pay, and after i have a lot i can always recycle it, so its not really wasted.

Im finding the Forum taking longer to load pages than before. Post your latest print takes forever to load, and i just gave up many times, i assume as it has many pages or something, but this should not be an excuse as if the forums grows, then it will truly become useless.