cloakfiend

I don't really print ultra straight stuff but thats good to know! thanks

So basically if you don't want zebra lines rotate it 15 degrees. Will this work for anything, or just the boat?

Looks like a blocked nozzle to me.

With regard to ABS, i agree the quality of print you get is better than with PLA, but weaker. higher melting point, but weaker. I had so many delicate things break on me with ABS that just bend in PLA and go back to their original position. Also getting large flat surfaces with ABS, to sit and not move or warp during long prints even a millimetre is difficult unless you build a hood use ABS juice and blah blah, compared to PLA which you just knock out. But most importantly which some people still don't believe is that PLA blends smooth out great with acetone and ABS simply melts uncontrollably. So I can finally achieve what I set out to when I bought the damn thing. This would not be possible with the maker-bot due to resolution restrictions.

You may want to try one print like this just to be sure its not the filament snagging as the feeder is a bit hit and miss and the clicking noise used to drive me up the wall, but i never get it anymore! I only print like this now as i simply had enough of those lines and the clicking noise, all so i can acheive perfect layer height as much as i can get it. (its never perfect unfortunately, even if it looks as if it is). Good luck....expect lots of problem solving for the next few weeks! lol. but once you crack it. You'll be happy.

I see 3Dprinting basically as Multiple tiered 3D Plotting with plastic. For all the people out there incapable of Poly modelling and such, Zbrush is a wonderful program for artists, but for accurate mechanics not so great. If you can draw you'll be able to make what you want in no time. And yes i also agree about the 3d printers and get annoyed when i say we have a 3d printer and the first thing people always say is, wow, you can print anything, your own printer, or print a computer, or something dumb like that. they've been mis-sold especially by makerbot people with his whole you can print anything routine. He brought awareness true but a lot of lies with it, but the lack of closeups had me very suspicious from the start as to the quality of the print, and to no surprise at all i though the quality was below my expectations, and hated the lines. Then some bright spark did the whole ABS routine and everyone is melting their pieces trying to achieve what they've been mis-sold. Thank god for PLA! However after tinkering around, I am happy to talk up my ultimaker as i love the open source and can acheive things of a quality i thought i would never be able to at the start. Its just not as easy as 123. Or pressing a go button on a closed source printer.

For those who are interested.... 0 infill Im not printing this boat anymore, too many overhangs, horrible in 0.06, lol.

Even with 0 infill it has zebra stirpes, sorry about that! the light was a bit poor and it hadn't quite finished yet.

OK now im having my first attempt at joining pieces together and acetoning them afterwards. I used Maya to slice the models, and some araldite 5 mins to join them as when i tried with superglue it did not give me enough time to align them by eye and i ended up tearing them apart. Will post the dip results after i clean them up as because they are slightly melted to the base i have some sanding to do on the joins. not to much though. Really happy with the detail in the gnomes face.

I try to print everything without any infill if possible, that is the benfit of a thicker shell. I did see some artifacts on my older models, but now think i can crank my prints up to 70mm/s instead of my current 35mm/s, thanks to this news.

I could print with abs just fine with a blocked nozzle, but NOT PLA. Thats the day i realized i needed to do the atomic method properly.

7, 8, 9, look good though, so i doubt its a faulty nozzle. blocked i reckon.

This is why i dont print off the roll anymore......may want to double check youre nozzle too. but more likely the snagging issue.

Good to know! and even better to know how to sort it, but i really don't mind it as its for a functional piece rather than a cosmetic one. Its needs to work more than it needs to look good.

Lol, no its spray paint, i did the dip the previous night. I'd try ABS with acetone spray, but i found it a pain to keep stuck to the build plate, especially delicate tiny prints that i can easily remove with PLA. Also the glue is annoying to apply and the temperature of the nozzle means it destroys the coupler quicker. Id like to see a comparison of acetoned ABS vs acetoned PLA? Can you post your best ABS acetone print and I'll try my best in PLA. I have no ABS at all so cant try it out otherwise i would. I remeber having very clean prints with ABS, but could not clean the lines away and they seemed far too delicate to hold any weight, i had lots of things snap on me, its why i switched to PLA, lower temps, easy acetone application, but you have to print in high rez otherwise the acetone wont do enough to melt the lines away.

WIll try tonight on my dying coupler. ill do the boat, but i get those subltle lines quite regularly, i thought that is just an unfixable issue? here is something similar on roberts feeder i still have about. why the kinda shadows of the hole after it, weird, but purely cosmetic. Not an issue on massive surfaces as uyou can easily sand filla them. some subtle vertical lines too, oh well not too bothered about that.

Shaxon ABS? what is that? Wait, now im confused, lol. I only apply acetone to PLA, NOT ABS. That way i get minimal detail loss due to the PLA/PHA combination. ALL detail even edges still look great, I wouldnt dream of dipping ABS, it would just ruin it. I did this one last night and sprayed it this morning. 25 sec in acetone certainly has not ruined it in my opinion, model was not that detailed anyways. Obviously still wet lol. And unlike ABS PLA does NOT go shiny with acetone, but smooth instead.

I just split the model, as i have a lot of modelling experience, joining the halves is not really a problem. But more of a time thing.

Yeah i know, but we arent talking very much washing away and you dont want what washes away anyway, it leaves the model cleaner. Leakage happens more so with colorfabb to tell the truth, with UM filament it doesnt matter what you do really it stays on the model and the magic only really happens afterwardsduring the whitening phase in my experience(not sure what filament you're using), ive tried all the methods. For the seriously anal, you can apply it area by area with a tiny brush as well until you are happy with the final result (again only with UM blue in my experience). I doubt the difference between spraycan and container is worth the price difference, but in the name of research will do a test to find out for myself..... However, when you spray on the acetone, i imagine its not on the surface long enough to achieve a smooth finish in one pass? Hence wasting many cans of acetone if you print out a lot of stuff like i do. If you dont print much then i dont see a problem with the spray. Don't worry a comparison will come... P.S. what filament brand are you using?

you should be able to print at up to 70mm/s no problem. I printed a lot like this and it looks fine if you're no gonna paint it. but it doesnt work with my acetone method as it creates bizzare subtle surface patterns due to the speed so i dont bother anymore and do everything at 35, mind you with my new method of loading the filament i might actually give it a go again!!! If you want to print at 70mm.s then crank up the temp to 230 thats it! Go for it. But dont expect the overhangs to look any nicer.

Its hard to explain, you can tell from the tip if you are getting it into all ares of the head to clean, the bit you pull out should look like this in my opinion. And ignore the neck as my coupler is faulty! If it doesnt look like this, (at the tip) you are doing it wrong.... or something is wrong. Im gonna do a video guide today about this maybe, as like making a cake, its different reading something to actually seeing someone doing it. And regarding the 45 meter filament, i think it would be far wiser printing it in parts and then assembling it later. Big things are easy to join compared to small things. My robot is split as i did it to avoid the lame bottoms and will just glue it or acetone it together later. Here are the original files, mine is slightly larger as its quite detailed and i want to chrome it up later. The manual supports i added for the overhanged stuff is OK not perfect one fell down, but as a 5 Hr test it came out just fine. I had more issues taking it off the plate as i used way too much glue and ended up tearing most of his face off with pliers pulling him off. I printed mine 1.6 scale as well BTW. So import the OBJs and have a go if you want with all my setting i posted. Youll need to rotate them and lay them flat, and ill admit i didnt split them in the best place, but they fit together perfecttly afterwards, and ill show you the final result when im done. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pprq9hnmj1jjwno/AAD00OHOq82FMWy1EVV1Z_Tha?dl=0

'The extended is much more pronounced than the extended? you mean the UMO+? \

Maybe cura is cutting the polys in weird ways, leaving pinching at those spots? these are issues i can never understand! try cura 15.02.01 i really dont know the difference, everthing has printed identically the same for me from the past curas, only the support has changed to being much thinner for PLA for me, which was amazing! I can try printing it if you like, but i dont think that will help you?

Here is the face after a quick undercoat this morning, i was in a ruch so just slapped a bit on and took a blurred photo! Job done, no cracks!

Yeah i know i already spoke about this on another thread, but its really not necessary, and way more expensive than dipping, for the price of 1 or 2 cans i get a 5 litres container and that has so far lasted me 6 months and im not even half way through it., plus you end up spraying the stuff all round it as well. So for the safety nuts out there this is even worse than what im doing, lol! The spray in my opinion would be only really useful on large un dippable objects. And useless on colorfabb PLA it will only work on UM brands in my opinion, but hey i'll admit that i have not tried many filament brands. Only UM and Colorfabb which ive had great luck with. UM Blue is my winner, and WILL work with spray but seeing as you need to keep re-applying the acetone you will find it to be quite wasteful.